Enjoying Nakadai. Part 5

Thirty million four thousand four hundred eighty one

In continuation Enjoying Nakadai. Part 1. Part2. Part 3. Part 4

Day 9-th.

In the morning we met a Brazilian couple. Nice people 35 years nice curves — calm and smiling. They are five days waiting for the weather and the company on the Atoll of Chinchorro.

Dive boats depart to the only Atoll fully equipped. Swimming there, as it turned out, not much of a walk. And as the company of divers and free divers (diving without scuba gear) gathered, the team boats, composed of three Mexicans, led by a suspiciously cheerful in the morning, Oscar decided, what the weather will do on the road, as it started to lightly drizzle rain rain. In the formation of weather I participate abstained in the belief that local is better to negotiate with the local Spirits and the elements. Looking at the mood of the Oscars, I wondered whether this adventurous gaiety “the Matador” about the changeable in these latitudes the weather, whether he was really glad of the company and the upcoming journey.

Before departure we waited for the warm rain streaming rain and boarded a boat. On the way to the Atoll, the waves became more and more, however, the first time the participants had fun and joked and all the contestants squealed with delight when the boat tossed on the waves, but on the way back the waves were much more than we had even imagined, but more on that later.

The boat captain changed the sunglasses on the diving mask. Indian at the helm in the mask for scuba diving looked very colorful. It was like a flash mob and raised us up even more.

On arrival at the first dive I learned not because it was see the island as I expected, and the changing colors of water: blue waves changed to light green and a very light water under us. Such colors I had never seen.

Paint the sea people in General are fascinating at least for a few minutes the man stops and gets into Full Zen. Forgetting who he is, disappears imperceptibly, and after recollecting himself, and finding in a hurry to recall where he was, where he had to hurry to get back to social.

The color of the water here was fantastic from the spectrum, the closer it is to the blue - green of the rainbow that comes from a CD-ROM under the fluorescent lights. The colors were contrasting with pronounced borders crossings and very very clean. The artist in me remembered how I mixed oil paint on canvas ultramarine with white, blue-green with white, and a lot of light around.

The sun came out and immediately heat briefly enveloped us wet. We were all rather shaky, at least the female part of the boat and the boy-young man big, no rather long Italian with the body of a teenager. We really wanted to dive and keep warm in the arms of a warm ocean, as the wind unceremoniously blew the spray of warm water, which the ocean familiarly "buckets" splashed us in the face to the beat of the breath. We had fun... but not to be offended on the element in which we are guests?

Squeezed myself into the wetsuit I listened to Genie and put the top one wetsuit with a hood over his long and buttoned it up above my chin I have very strange feeling: “the condom is probably too warm...”, I thought.

My head almost turned, but for me that doesn't wear a bra, the stiffness and tightness was perceived as hostile and toward the throat were coming kom. But I've already been told “Bi si Di” (vest buoyancy compensation) and I got dressed on. Mask, fins – I finally gussied up and Board back down toppled overboard. Blowing the vest, I stayed on the surface waiting for the other five members of the dive. And again the rain – strong rain, who, while sailing to the Atoll competed with the waves spraying us from the sky in a continuous stream.

Kom compressed air down in the chest and hurt pushed me inside. I undid the top zipper of the suit, just feel better... took the regulator mouth — breathing! Decided again the only thing I can give is to breathe, breathe, I'll continue under water. The equipment works and this is important, problem will be solved as they arrive. Those who do not know – air supply regulator has a structure that the valve allows (even if you barf!) continue to supply air to unilaterally and even if you decide to "feed the fish", on the pattern of breathing, if of course you will not panic, is not affected.

When all divers were in the water, we blew away the jackets and began to sink. But the ambush, I notice that I'm not drowning! My second costume I added buoyancy and cargo on the belt is clearly not enough. Noticed that Jean and removed his cargo started to put them in the pockets of my vest. I obediently put his hands and allowed me to do all that is necessary. I am very obedient when I'm in a reality where people do NOT live and feel your strength. I thing to know who is "alpha" and I tell my the body: Listen to this man — he will save you!

Since my head is not strongly turned, and the mask and even narrowed the review, I do not really and see what there is happening around me. But here I was happily sink, and what was to be achieved. We began to fall into the abyss. Lump in breast disappeared and I felt great again from the inside and was finally able to pay attention to the outside. We some time hovering in the blue space over the abyss. It was terribly solemn and somehow epically hard. Then suddenly turned in a very strong undertow. I have sailed on the depth against the current, but I never saw him really struggle flying horizontally in aquamarine abyss struggling going through the fins. In the rapid flight which the regulator tries to escape from his mouth. Out of breath, I stretch my hand to gene, hoping to reach his beloved and he catches me. Well, just like in the painting of Michelangelo, where two strong hands stretching to the meeting barely touching each other with your fingertips, although then it was not funny – it is beautiful, epic, but... not funny. I stretched and could not make it, as I was drifting over, and reach for me then was a matter of life and death. The condition was as in a dream, when you run, you run and you can't accelerate in slow motion. The roar in my ears, no reference points, no reefs, and walls of caves – complete space and a quick flight somewhere in the unknown depths, behind the black silhouettes of ocean current against strong underwater "wind", and then the rest...

We got out of the current to the reef and finally the whole group swam over the corals. There was a huge barrel-shaped sponges with a cavity inside where you could have fit a scuba diver and even two. A delight! Fish and white-brown in the coral thickets of bluish flowers. I remembered that at great depths red fades... "Probably, these fish are yellow-red" — I thought.

I could not understand why the whole group swims on me, I much later learned that it took almost 50 metres. Unreal! It is strange that not a noticeable difference, because people do not feel the difference in 15 or 50 meters it is under water.

Fascinated by looking at corals and fish, I didn't even notice there was a gin and pulled up behind him. I dutifully but reluctantly swam after him, what could I do — I was taken in tow. Then gene disappeared leaving me in the care of Oscar, dive instructor and owner of the dive centre which I mentioned earlier. I don't quite understand where to turn his head was uncomfortable and I didn't even know in what direction he disappeared. We then drifted the entire group otstaival over the reefs after depth. I got hold of Oscar, or rather at the ring on his vest and thought: what happened to Jin, does he worry for me? But remembering that he has very different dives calmed down and thought if there is some emergency, he the ascent, I tell you – we're not in caves. And at some point I suddenly felt that the danger had passed.


Rising from the depths, suddenly directly overhead I saw a boat with the engine running and was very happy. And here we are on the surface, again, clumsy and heavy. Remove the flippers and gravity is helping me to regain my weight which I managed to miss. Had got into the boat, weighty, wet, and tired but happy and filled with meeting with you — so helpless and vulnerable, which I basically don't know and go for it. Weak and filled with respect for the men who know and do a lot more than I know and more than I can imagine.

There on the Board, rolled the storm, and wet to the bone, was sitting our freedivers — Dasha and Italian couple. They were eagerly waiting for us to sail finally on the island and set foot on solid ground, so we rolled this four-hour pitching. And I want to say; to set foot on dry and stable land to rejoice in the sense of stability. The wind continues — the boat sways, but above us the sun. All in the boat – we sail to the island.

Dasha asks me how "out there" and how long submerged? I'm stretching and take off the suit tell us that there was a strong current and sank probably 20-25m. While Dasha tells us that we have some kind of strange rose on his face that something had happened there. Yeah, I somehow at the start was not very good, then I couldn't take... then for the reefs, and then gene gave me in "good hands" and disappeared. Moving from the tank to the stern to Gina decided to ask what had happened.

Jean says:

I was raised with a 50-meter depth.

I ask:

"Yes!" (I at the depth gauge was not looking, as I have it in the caves were not working and he's not particularly necessary. Air I have ohotilis less than men because I am guided and do not pay attention to the water appliances. You're my best gauge / depth gauge and the facial expression of the instructor. If the instructor will change in the face and abruptly freeze, I understand that something is wrong and then will scan the devices. I prefer to trust the experts more than their internal "controller".)

— Why did you leave me with Oscar?

— My air ran out

How are you air? You're always the output was more than half of the cylinder as well?

— Just ran out, at 30m — a complete zero.


I gave you the instructor and slowly surfaced. At a depth of 15-20 meters there was a little air due to pressure changes. On the surface his mouth was inflated vest and splashing was waiting for you.

And this is how it happened?

I swam to the boat with the goods, gave them to you. It wasn't enough, then gave away his and we began to sink. No cargo had to work the fins, so as not to float. I led you against the current, then chased you when you carelessly left on depth. You all know what you've gone more than 50 meters away, and fun was considered by corals is "azotka" (drug status from nitrogen narcosis; "under nitrogen" complete state of ease and fun, some experienced divers go specifically to a depth to experience that). You well and happy, danger do not notice. People feel can not understand what he depth. This is grubinger and pressure gauge showing the pressure in the air tank. Going deeper — the air runs out faster. We, both men and women spent 4 times more air at a depth of 50 m than at the surface. When you swim fast or the more wrangle, the air is consumed even 2-3 times faster.

-Then I look, you look different. I mean, I've never seen.

Initiation Death — so I call these events. And in the mysteries is necessary, symbolically I need to simulate a similar situation; after a jump into the abyss, after digging into the grave, through the firewalk. And then really, without staging and attributes – there was a Real Initiation! For me this dive was psihodelicheskoy-dreaming as little of a Shamanic Dream.

Dreams are Big and Small. Small is normal dreams. They are similar to post-combustion impressions or obsessive inner dialogue. Large dreams there like picture 3, 4-5D. Feeling more real than life itself: the sounds, smells, colors, wind, temperature, and even the body telesna! If you said "pinch yourself in the dream," to make sure you don't sleep – doesn't work, the pinch will feel brighter than in real life. Be vulnerable and continue to trust and move into the abyss I have never been.

And here we are moored to the wooden platform. Dasha filmed house on stilts that caught us near the island. We jumped out of the boat and... Oh, here it is — happiness, stable surface! What awaits us on the island, what is it?


We left the boat. Body still swayed in and re-used to the resistance. The island was inhabited by many iguanas, these Latin dragons probably, themselves, did not even know how they are mythical. Size from cats to large dogs, with green and orange scales and blue membranes in place of ears, with a yellow crest on the back, across the forehead, the whole face and then below the chin like the robe of an Indian shaman. One particularly smart thing and posted a marker on the crest, came to us for lunch. Iguana gently took from the hands of the pieces of fish, and behind it was line up all the reptiles, and they stood like dolls, different sizes in a row. Something they have bird — like iguanas and birds are very even relatives.


Here I remember the pterodactyl. Pterodactyl is iguana that lost the wings, with the motor skills of the bird's movement — alternately turning the head right and then left eye, like a bird of prey considering us as potential prey.

After lunch, on a tiny coral island, a Mexican Indian took us through the mangroves to the lagoon. We stood on the rickety wooden platform, and below us, no more than 1-2 meters away I saw these smiling crocodiles of different sizes.


They carefully and closely, we are also very even, saw, all but licked his lips in the cartoon. I counted 5, and the largest size I think with the car, decided to swim closer. It seems that the fauna on this island do not be alarmed, animals are curious and not hiding in the woodlands of our latitude, but on the turn are interested in communicating with people, of course it looks like a gastronomic purpose, but still very nice to see appeals to my curiosity of a different beast.

The second dive in this long day

After waiting another short storm, we left the next shark dive. I listened to myself - to take or abstain? As it was cold, went 7th hour, as I, constantly, was in a wet wetsuit. But when we dropped anchor, I realized that I wanted — I want to take...


Really more people regret NOT having done than about what they did. We went to meet with the sharks-nurses. This time I didn't put on a second suit. Antarctica, I think, I have yet to come, and my mobility is dearer to me than heat. This dive went mentally, there really is very cute... shark-nurse, who got his nickname due to its inherent playfulness of a young dog. She sailed straight into the open arms of Oscar, which sank to the bottom and knelt down, his arms out to the sides. And I repeated his calling to the shark gesture and, surprisingly, was able to stroke her on the asphalt its texture rough skin.

A shark the size of a man, made a semicircle and chased our group playfully calling to visit. The dive was to a depth of 26 meters without current, which in itself is nice. When we surfaced, I learned from Oscar that the gray shark was nearby and not paying particular attention to us — guests of the reef, swam about his business. Standing on the boat, we went back to the mainland.


The way back was really hard, because a heavy wind was rising, and the waves with a three-meter rose to 6 meters, but the numbers I found out later. The storm intensified, the rain has not stopped advancing tropical twilight, the low clouds started to turn black. On the way back, I measured wave heights. The waves were as brilliant live back of a huge reptile, and we, as the shell of the seeds stuck to the dark and shiny side of this epic animal, which is flexing its muscles. We were ready hundreds of times, is about to fly into the abyss, and hundreds of times and emerged again, appearing on the crest of a colossal wave.


And I thought the floors the size of the waves surrounding us:

This size with two floors, this three. And such a tiddly seemed our boat, it is punctually sinking between the waves, like a toy from kinder surprise is lost in the folds of the large blanket. And only the will of the captain suddenly our boat, again, has ascended to the white crest of the next wave. And the next wave of sympathy unclear to me, chose to carry us down the course, although he could to kill us. A few times already. However, the element was restrained, it seemed that the magic of the captain, and perhaps the personal power of some participants...


Masks for diving sit as the pioneers of the Brazilians. Part of the group is located on the floor of a motor boat in the fetal position, and if it were possible for a moment to turn off the sound of whipping winds and crashing of the rolling waves, we would have probably heard how loud they were shaking. I was warm and comfortable, unless of course it is possible to speak about comfort, in such circumstances, as I was hiding from the waves behind Gina, who just grabbed me in his arms protecting them from familiarly slapping on the whole body. This allowed me to open my eyes and see what is happening around the mystery of mother nature. Gene sat with his back to the waves and I told him sometimes — more words, and interjections told us what a wave passed us while nearly overturning the boat. Even being under under stunning impression of the power of the elements, I felt that in those conditions in which we all were, it was the best.


The captain's face was impassive in the diver's mask. He stood like a stone statue, hard staring at the sky and the sea. And then I realized! Yes it handles waves like a real surfer for sure!!! If he didn't, we'd be knocked over. Here we come to the crest of a sea dragon and short tacks go forward while gently as possible, not to sink with comb! Mercilessly drags us into the depths of the spray, then the captain rides the next wave.

When we finally saw the mainland, the passengers of the boat started to perk up and be happy, coming back to life. And the team on the contrary strained. Now, three Indians drilled eyes live the rolling surface of the ocean. I realized that to see the shore this is half the battle, we need to approach it in the dark is not sitting on the ground. This was the task of the crew. After standing at the counter for 40 minutes and after passing the first buoy, the Indians crossed – it was a strong moment! This is something to ponder – how many times in my life man escapes death?

And became at once warm in the night, hung over the jungle. In these latitudes the sun goes down almost immediately and instantly the light turns off. Wet so much that I have not only her hands, my lips swelled. We were like a well-salted veggies, and even water did not flow down from the face and hands. Water is like a second skin, entangled in the eyelashes, forming a small lake on the cheeks, the temples, and I could not brush away drops from his face, as hands as if you just added water. And even the body waterthe dry, continues to exude moisture, which was absorbed during our trip to the Chinchorro Atoll. I found that we were continuously wet for more than 12 hours! Bit of a pity were an Italian couple – they went with us on a walk to dive with masks near the Atoll and "hit" in an adventure that would willingly never ordered, so deep down I'm very glad for them. I am always pleased when we get more than expected. Dasha though free-diver, it was said for three days he wants with his partner to hold extreme travel – quest for survival. Yesterday, we with Dasha just had a conversation on the topic of organizations and a quest adventure.

– Well, you, Natalia, doing this? asked Dasha

– And you, Dasha, order what you want! In my field acts strange phenomenon very quickly wishes come true, ' I replied.

...We still laughed then.

Come true desire obscenely — often from my students, not because I'm "good" fairy, but in order to be able to go further. WANT to, friends, is much different things. "...Be afraid of their desires, for they are..." they say in India.

How to tell you what a joy it is, when under a warm shower you can finally pull off the wetsuit and plenty nastoyaschii under warm water, immerse yourself in a rocking chair, wrapped in a blanket, sipping hot fragrant tea. But the evening of the infinitely-long day had only just begun.


The evening after arriving in a storm

At dinner we were visited by the Captain of the port (the person giving permission to enter and exit the port) and our entire company along with the captain warmed tequila, rejoicing that life is beautiful because everything is alive and healthy. And I had warm tea and was glad — that there is in this life of unplanned adventure. Not all are mysteries most direct, and the breath of death to lose for the participants. Can we — really and honestly afraid for fun, to pass away – it is beautiful. There is a special beauty in threshold States vulnerable, the meek beauty of the total action in the moment, without pathos, and humbly, as our captain is calm, managing our boat.

I felt so nice and warm in the soul from experiencing this beauty of a man in action, what is "good" did not need to improve something that changes state. I really don't like alcohol for themselves. It is intended historically to change the state of the person, more fun, more adventurous or more relaxed – that is, to improve or brighten up something that is.

Many closed-it opens, stressful - relaxing, heavy becomes lighter, the cowardly become brave, secretive and Frank, stale make — a sentimental, sad — fun. I already have a reputation for "girl drugs" from the fact that I was relaxed, fun and easy without available funds. Alcohol weight making me lethargic and viscous, and to remain at their speed I have to make an effort. Then this horrible aftertaste: long-long I can feel it in the blood as foreign, unpleasant needles and can feel the heavy blood moves through the vessels. No, I want high speeds and my natural humorous clarity and vigilant implementation – I don't need to improve "boys do not pour meni BlsI, Bo I vzhe so Yak you need". So as they say "what good Russian — German death" and me from drinking hard when others is easier.

But our guest, the captain of the port very much opened thanks to the tequila. He admitted that he was very concerned for us and said that we came back two hours later than expected given the storm, and already it was a question whether to send for us coast guard. He was pleased that we came back after the boat on which we sailed was not designed for such storms.

On sentimental he told me how happy Patriotic that born in Mexico. As passionate about Indian culture and customs, the history books are wrong and the chronology of historical events is broken and "they" are silent about the most interesting facts... this place was the details. Captain genuinely surprised that native American shamans can cure without drugs, and then I remembered that I read that Yes, indeed — Mexico is heavily Americanized and pharmacology here after drugs the most profitable business.

Oscar "made a stand" as soon as the captain spoke about the little-known sunken Galleons. Oscar told us that four years was not able to promote captain on the specifics in this matter. As soon as it came on the appointment time of the trip to the sunken gallon, the captain was off the topic.


Gin whirled professionally the captain, while managing to translate the entire conversation to me that we with Dasha really laugh from happening. Not changing narrative tone, gene recounting the details of Indian customs and the promise of the captain to go tomorrow to the jungle, weaving in the story of the captain comments.

Without changing their smooth narrative tone, gene transferred his plans:

Tomorrow, I will be driving you will get acquainted with the wild tribes in the interior of the island, and we will love on the sunken Galleons where the treasures lie. Further, the translator has woven their version of the reason for such abundant promises. On the words spoken on behalf of the master: "And it tells me the tequila," I almost choked on his tea. Out that the captain spoke to us two: the captain and tequila in it alternately. Jean translated the content of the speech of the captain and put him diagnosed, in one continuous narrative.


I smiled and wondered alternately, and the captain had already well warmed up alcohol, more and more liked our company and he promised that in the morning we will go to the jungle to the fishermen and will be able to dive in a place where tourists are not allowed to do. And the sea was raging a hundred metres from us and the palm trees swayed simultaneously with the wind. What is "love", I thought, the element looks like shameless does not listen to the assurances of the captain and enjoys dancing his passionate song to the local gods. to be continued...

To be continued...

Enjoying Nakadai. Part 1. Part2. Part 3. Part 4


Author: Natalia Walicka


Source: valitskaya.com/wp/contacts


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