Another hello from Andrew Petrina. Now, from Cuzco.
Set impressions of Kussko: wildly polluted city with lots of beggars and totally fabulous tourist markup on almost anything is possible. But the neighborhood are worth a separate description. Because of the wild headache (acclimatization?) Have been here much longer than planned - for eight days.
Once you emerge on the central square of Cusco and in a couple of neighboring blocks, as you will be attacked by a variety of souvenir sellers / Points of Chinese / herb / artists / beggars. All these people see you walking, sitting or ATM. This is sad. Such blatant desire is not in Lima or in a super-tourist Aguas Calientes. By the way, the last one - it's very nice and clean city where increased margin is explained by at least English-speaking staff service sector, and pure mountain air provokes a walk. But the question now is not about him but about the navel of the earth, as it was called Indians.
The city of Cusco is completely safe - it is primarily the merit of a large number of policemen. According to my observations at each intersection in the center is 2 persons in uniform. With increasing distance from the center of the number is reduced to a servant of the law. Getting to the non-touristic bus terminals, there was no panic in terms of fears for the safety of his pockets and backpack. From neighbors in the hostel heard these same impressions and not a single negative about the theft / robbery. This - a definite plus. That's all the positive aspects of being in the city end.
In the first place among the negatives - the exhaust gases, and the exact number. The impression that you are sitting on a busy ring road of a large metropolis. But Cuzco lives a little more than 300 thousand people, and called the city a major language is not rotated. The geographical location of the city (a valley between high mountains) has played a trick on him. Whereby emissions from cars, will not disappear from Cuzco, and patiently wait for their victims to be absorbed light tourists and locals. Wind in the little valley and exhaust Cusco wander from one part of town to another. At night, breathing becomes easier, but the rain and especially do not walk around the city.
To emissions of vehicles are added insistent notes of urine and it does not matter: you are in the center or on the outskirts. The Indians used to celebrate the needs where they will catch them and then the police can not help. Put guards on every corner, even in the tourist area of the city can not. What can we say about the doorways! Repeatedly I saw a picture when someone turned the "face" in a public place does what in a normal society is in the toilet. The smell is not washed away by rain. Its intensity suggests that part of the culture is aimed solely at the imitation of our younger friends. Otherwise, explain that I can not.
There is still a small caste of crooks. They certainly have the most tourist places of the planet, but in Cuzco they are very petty, and it is even more unpleasant. I mean those who are in the form of an English tourist "lifts up" the price (all taxi drivers, merchants, souvenirs / fruit / tours), but it is worth perestprosit price was surprised how it (the mystic!) Is reduced to acceptable levels - higher than we would like, but lower than it was. And thanks for that, you are our conscientious! Kuskinskie crooks not miss the opportunity to fuck extra salt at every opportunity: pay you land on the platform at the bus terminal or buy 1 kg of bananas in the market. Always ask again and you will find close to the real price.
We ask for directions from a policeman. She said that it's hard to explain, but it will take a taxi 3 Sol. We agreed. She stopped the car and asked the price, confirmed that a 3 Sol (just over $ 1), and off we went. Go back at this price do not get any. From all stopped mashih the nearest price was 5 salts. Especially enterprising professional drivers were asked to 7-8 salts. The difference ridiculous, but I personally do not like nice attitude. The same happened when the employee called a taxi through the hostel. When the driver drove to the month that the appointment and voiced the price (two times more than the employee of the hostel) I was looking for here is the neighborhood of Cusco very pleased! Clean air, mountains, wind, almost no one else wanted something "Provisional Government" and the wonderful views. As soon as the "mountain illness" started to let go, went to a nearby hill to the hostel where there is a statue of Christ (Christo Blanco - White Christ). It can be seen from almost all over the city. In the evening and during the night the statue covers a lot of spotlights and gives the impression that Jesus hovers over Cusco in the dark sky. Go to it was not difficult. Make frequent stops to cope with shortness of breath. We take pictures and went to the Indian market and fairs. It sold on living creatures (llama / alpaca) to all kinds of handicrafts (capes, track, clothing colors "gouge the eyes"). Very impressed with how macho you check Lama or not. The method is perfect its simple: is responsible for the quality of the information puts his hand to where they should be signs of sexual Lama. A few seconds of uncertainty, and he wiped his hand on the animal's hair, solemnly declares: macho, or Muchacha! Lamu are marked for sale, and the next test specimen. After the fair went up and came to indeskih ruins. Rested and descended domoy.renne udivishsya, asked. Price reduced by a third.