Ice cream of lilacs: what was the sweet treat before the revolution and how it changed in the Soviet Union

In the hot summer months ice cream is a real way. When the thermometer gets close to around thirty degrees, kiosks selling cold treats storm. Surprised Churchill in 1944 saw in Moscow of people with an appetite absorbing the contents of the waffle cones right in the cold.

If now the ice cream is a universal product, in pre-revolutionary Russia, it was sold only in the warm season. The St. Petersburg newspaper reported in March 1914: "in view of the fact that eating ice cream in cold weather, especially children, may have detrimental effects on health... major General Drachevsky ordered not to allow on the streets selling ice cream until further its resolutions.

In the early XX century ice-cream preferred to work with groups of 10-25 people. Sugar, salt and milk they bought chipped, removed for the summer shed or glacier, rented a truck and every morning went to the streets. In Odessa, the sellers worked with 10-11 hours until late in the evening. Over the summer, every Odessa Iceman could earn 100-150 rubles, which was considered a pretty good amount. In August, many dealers have switched to trade watermelons and seasonal fruits. One of St. Petersburg journalists in 1912, was able to obtain the secrets of the profession from the horse's mouth: "I had to tell the ice cream man that sells in St. Petersburg for over 30 years. He complains that before it was “freer” and “simpler”, a Nona severity went. Here cannot go, there cannot be “scream”... In St. Petersburg, the ice-cream up to 1,000 people. They earn for the season from 300 to 100 rubles, depending on the fly. With a monthly salary of a factory worker in 20-25 rubles figure looks impressive. Earn ice cream in Petersburg came the peasants of the Yaroslavl, Vladimir and Kaluga provinces.

The sanitary state of the industry before the revolution almost did not attend. So, in Orekhovo-Zuyevo the ice-cream man went to work in dirty aprons and sold their goods from the questionable cleanliness of the shell. All day long they wash their plates, destined for customers in the same water. "The buyers of ice-cream is almost exclusively children which eats the dirt from shots or just a piece of dirty newspaper, or of a piece of old dirty books. It would be better to call these sellers carriers of infection." In the Northern capital, police sometimes examined porters, checking the quality of goods and cleanliness of utensils. Despite the absence of factory production, such "artisanal" ice cream was popular and got on pages of books. Igor Severyanin two years before the outbreak of the First world war resolutely rejected the creme brulee and creamy, offering listeners the cream of lilacs. Lilac — lust logo. The purple-coddled rollZald, waterfall heart, fragrant and sweet fluff...andIce cream of lilacs! Ice cream of lilacs!Hey, boy with sbiten, try it! Honest to God, praise, my friend! Even in the 1920-ies ice cream everywhere produced by artisanal craftsmen. Industrial base on manufacturing a cool product transferred only Anastas Mikoyan. In 1936, he goes to the famous American business, and a year later the first Soviet factory mastered the production of ice cream. Capacity for the production of the product appeared in Moscow, Leningrad, Kiev, Kharkov, Poltava, Odessa. Mikoyan believed that the Soviet people should eat at least five pounds of ice cream. Soviet cups were health much flawless before the revolution. All products were sent to bath pasteurizers in stainless steel, in coils supplied with hot water, allowing heat the mixture to 60 degrees and to break up fat lumps. The resulting mixture is placed in special containers and then into the cups. In 1941, the USSR imposed severe GOST regulating the composition of ice cream. The product is made only from whole milk, cream and butter. Ice cream tried to sell during the week. Moscow in late 1930-ies were decorated with posters of Glavkhlopkoprom: "Ice cream demand everywhere!"


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