Baikal and back Bashny.Net

Today is exactly a year since my friend made the trip to Lake Baikal. I understand that such fotoputeshestvie full, but each in its own unique, at least I think so.
So, with permission, to spread on your court order of 102 photos and some text to them.

Moscow - Irkutsk - Olkhon Island (Lake Baikal) - Listvyanka - Arshan - Irkutsk - Moscow.





2.
Anyway, but the desire to see the Baikal was long ago, and just then there was a chance, friend Misha from Irkutsk thrown cry, inviting the following summer on Olkhon. I'm digging some money, decided to leave the issue for six months and bought a ticket to Moscow-Irkutsk-Moscow airline S7 for ~ 19.5 thousand rubles.

July 22, 2012 Irkutsk greeted me with rain. As assured Misha, I was "lucky" to get rare in these parts cloudy weather. On the other - the usual set: big backpack, tent, sleeping bag and mat, first aid kit, cosmetic bag, suit (slide 3), the radio, the bowler.

Upon arrival in the city went to Chufanku - Chinese underground tavern. In the truest sense: old wooden house in the afternoon he is open to hungry tourists, and at night the Chinese there and sleep. Feed a lot, hearty and inexpensive, exotic type of fried cockroaches there, but there salad with pork ears (by the way, very tasty).

Chinese Lunch. Salad of pork ears, noodles, beef



3.
And generally, in areas not seen such revelry catering, both in the capital, for example, where one street with heels cafe with very different themes and nationalities. There postural everywhere, no McDuck, saw a couple of stalls shavermy.
Posture - the name in Russian traditional Buryat (bur. Buuzy) and Mongolian (Mong. Buuzy) dishes. The word means "meat wrapped in dough" .Schitaetsya that pose - one of the variants of Chinese dishes baozi (Chinese. 包子, bāozi). Dish also akin hinkali Caucasian, Turkic mantle. Like baozi and mantle, steamed, usually in t. N. poznitsah, buzovarah or mantovarke - specialized for these purposes versions steamers. The main components of the filling key (minced) contains rublёnoe meat and onions luk.Pozy cups are shaped similar to baozi and hinkali, usually with an opening on top. The diameter of the finished item - about 5-8 cm. Eat postures traditionally hands, with the resulting broth when cooking inside postures, bite position at donyshka, drink separately through the hole.

The first day was for the purchase of any food, gas burner, tents and other wonders of the Chinese market. Food took a week, no less, because I'm not even interested in our itinerary and thought go for a week in a place remote from civilization ("3 + 2" all looked?). This, of course, was my mistake. We go together, no one else showed up.

The next morning, the bus Irkutsk - Huzhir from the bus station, the weather is still gloomy. I'm worried, but Misha says that on the island almost never rains, the island is blown by the winds and the clouds above it does not linger, and the mountains around. Over, the size of the mountains are not the ones that can be seen on the same Black Sea, but the essence is the same -Baykal is like a bowl.

We drive to the ferry and get up to turn on the steam. Ferry completely free - it is part of the federal highway. Queues three pieces: the local (the highest priority), buses, and all the others. Stood for three hours, as seen in the photo, two ferries and each interval of about an hour. During this time, had a chat with the guys from Novosibirsk, elderly Poles who married a Siberian girl, and Irkutsk people who rode bicycles from the city itself.

Queue for the ferry at Olkhon Gate



4.
Olkhon - the largest and only inhabited island of the Lake Baikal. Length - 71 km, width - 12 km, the area - 730 square kilometers, population 1,600., Distance from Irkutsk - 256 km. On the north-western shore of Lake forms the Small Sea straits and Olkhon Gate. Near the outer side of Olkhon - the deepest place of the lake (1642 m).



5.



6.



7.



8. Ferry



9. Sami Olkhon Gate



10. Unload and load the ferry back to our bus, finding in their seats no news whence undertaken Swede. Special conversation did not happen, but the girls said that they had heard and read about Baikal and just came here, everything is happy. Just like traveling Europeans.

As said Misha campings in Khuzhir in every yard, lots of tourists, including foreigners. Place develops, houses rented and build new, prices do not recognize. We do not go into the wilderness, because there was nowhere to go, cozy place for parking there a little, and moved a little away from the village and stood on the hillside. Electricity on the island held only in 2006, but it's worth a telephone and a communication tower in the village was only one problem - a fig internet in roaming so expensive ?!

At the place we arrived in the evening, so that before nightfall only managed to break camp. At night, the cyclists rode to the crossing, stopped nearby, and in the morning they were gone, do not know where the path was kept. On the sandy bank also gets a lot of people on all machines. Descend something there can be, but not everyone can go, so that there is always a local tractor shabashki. At night, the music plays, but sooner or later, the dream comes.



11. pos. Huzhir



12.



13.



14.



15.



16.



17. On the first day we moved camp to a more convenient location just a few meters next. What is it comfortable? And next are a few pines, which wrapped awning, get toilet cubicle, there is still a hole to dig. There are almost no forests, camping and parking - 15 meters of each other, and go somewhere to scare the bears will not work, so that everywhere pestreyut such booths of Chinese awning.



18. We camp unattended not allowed in the village went to one, although the neighbors seem not so steamed. And I probably do not trust people. And cows, too: they're free to walk around, as usual in the villages, and one even gobbled up our livers.



19. Where is the head?



20.



21. In the village had at least two points of hire. QUAD cost is too expensive (can not remember, but something like 5000 per day), but the bike - cheaper than in Perm - 70r / h. I took 2 hours and ran through the area, looked at the Shaman Rock and hit the lens of someone's camera. It was the girl from Stavropol, relaxing with her husband, cyclists and regretted that led her on a plane not bring. Promised to send me a photo (below it), good people. Were bought tickets to Irkutsk, departure after 2 days; return trip was more expensive.



22.



23. The burner operates "a great success", cooking us dinner and coffee. Dishes, as well as myself, it was only possible to wash in the lake. The water is very cold, went raids: go to their knees, standing, getting used. But people even swam in the lake and nothing; I did not dare. However, it should be said that you can wash and more civilized, and in the village, and even on the shore there is a bath. Every day after dinner, my comrade went to a bar on the shore not far from us, where I had not visited.

There is especially nothing to do, sit yourself with a cup of tea and cookies and enjoy nature. In the village there are cafes and postural, all sorts of entertainment like a shooting gallery rifles, bow and crossbow, you can take a tour of the area. In the afternoon of the second day at the beach helicopter landed local airlines to see, brought biggie. In the evening, taken away, raise a small sandstorm.

I went to climb the Shaman, even though it is prohibited - can be enraging spirits. If interested, you can read about the Shaman on the billboard, there a lot of things prohibited, such as women approach the rock. In times of shamanism in these places in the rock shaman lived and was doing a trick: he passed through the rock, which confirmed his authority. In fact, there is a hole in the rock, and from the outside it is not visible, so that even in our days, when the rock falls and poistrepalas, it may seem that a man came straight out of the stone.



24.



25.



26.



27.



28.



29.



30.



31.



32. Shaman Rock



33.



34.



35.



36.



37.



38.



39.



40. On the third day I decided to go to the other side of the island and see all the sea. The shore is rocky and there on the island only two descent to the water. In the bicycle rental scheme gave me (!) Directions, saying that the route about 24km, giving comments to the trip and advised to take with food and water. I'm with you did not take anything, as bitterly regretted. Yes there - I thought - and more driving and norms.



41. cycling survival

I forgot that there is real wilderness! You drove away from the village and you forget what a civilization; even the phone does not catch, happen that - Kukui as you want. Many hills, bike often pushes the foot. And I'm still in search of the road popetlyat issued under the scheme. As it turned out later, change the route of travel Bobby, now they go on the bottom of the road (the dashed line in the diagram), and the old road podzarosla; yet went to the people, pretty tired. Tourists carry on hydrogen sulfide lake, there can be smeared with mud, and I even had nowhere to dial. The shore had been a bit, but by how cool the road went down, I suspect, I will fucked on the way back.

In the distance - Huzhir. View from the hill



42.



43.



44.



45.



46. ​​



47. hydrosulfide lake



48. The eastern side of the island



49. On the beach it was very cold and of wind, but there was a couple of companies with tents, of course, on the machines. Fishermen. On the way back I reached the understanding that travel with them to have the supplies needed. And sun protection. Fortunately, there were good people there. I watered juice, pointed out the direction, and when I went to the track and could not pedal, throw the the village, despite the objections of my polite.

By campground went peasant and offered to buy firewood, 200p per bag. We refused, the gas we had plenty. After some time he came back, dropping the price to 100 - it seems that the demand was not there. Well, $ 100 for a cozy campfire - still nothing.

At night we stayed near the UAZ Patriot. Met and even agreed to go with them tomorrow to Irkutsk. Father, daughter and son-in from Barrow, traveling through Altai. Go almost no downtime: one driving, one asleep behind, a lot of places. Conveniently.

Overcast was not always



50.



51. Day returned to Irkutsk, and the next morning I was going to a different journey, but already one. Morning from the bus station by shuttle bus drove to Listvyanka. A small village on the shore of Lake Baikal, right at the source of the Angara. Attraction - Hot smoked Baikal cisco. Top class, 100R for 30cm fish. I was heading to the opposite shore in Port Baikal to go out on the Circum-Baikal Railway. Ferry service runs between the banks, this time for an extra charge and is much rarer than on Olkhon. Pedestrian price low.



52.



53.



54. pos. Listvyanka



55. Schedule ferry Listvyanka - Port Baikal



56. Here begins the Angara River



57.



58.



59.



60.



61. As it turned out, did not go so easy. Goes one train (on diesel traction) in the morning, though almost entirely occupied by those who buy tours, and only one car for mere mortals. But he found himself booked for a heap of people from some camp in the midst of the way. However, several nevertheless agreed to drive, including me.



62.



63. Transport is, left to take care of overnight. Return to Listvyanka is not an option, and the housing there should be more expensive because of the tourist places in the morning and do not have time to train. Went to look at the left bank of the Angara River, climbed the hill, where they found the hostel, 300r per night - and empty 8-bed apartments are mine. For products still had to stomp on the other side to the foot of the mountain. Could rent a house there. Recently read that people tend to turn to the right and if you want to bypass the queue, choose the left road; That to me would be worth it.



64. View of the Angara River



65. Train rides very slowly, 15 kilometers per hour. Faster on a road can not be. In the most interesting place to stay, you can go out and listen megaphone guide. There was even a large parking area, an hour and a half, where you can swim, eat and drink cisco delicious herbal tea from a samovar present. In a way seen parking and tourists who pass Circum on foot. Why not? There is beautiful all the way.

Conductors were complacent and, after the last empty wagon was full, all seats found in other tourist coaches, so to the end station Sludyanka in the southern tip of the lake reached all sitting. At first I thought even stay there, up in the mountains (the point about 2 km), and then find a bed, but by the time the evening was approaching (in the way were all day, in the morning), and the local said that the bed can be found in remote areas the settlement. I immediately decided to move on and the last shuttle bus drove off in Arshan.



66.



67. Tunnels and galleries Circum



68. The Circum-Baikal Railway (Circum) - the name used at the time of construction and the first years of operation with respect to a portion of the Trans-Baikal Railway station to station Baikal Mysovaya length of 260 kilometers (now this site is part of the East Siberian Railway) .In Currently Circum-Baikal Railway is usually called a branch length of 89 kilometers Sludyanka II - Kultuk - Maritui - Baikal. On Circum used 38 tunnels with a total length of 9063 m (the longest of them - a tunnel through half the length of the Cape 777, 5 m), 15 stone galleries with a total length of 295 m (now used only 5 of them), and 3 galleries with reinforced holes, 248 bridges and viaducts, 268 retaining walls. Saturation engineering structures Circum has no equal in Russia and is one of the first places in the world. Tunnels and stone galleries Circum-Baikal Railway is unique in that they were based on atypical projects and have not been rebuilt in the following years, retaining the original idea of ​​architects and engineers beginning of XX century.



69. Large parking area next to a small bay



70. Arshan - a village in the region of Buryatia Tunkinsky, spa and mountain-climatic resort. Located at an altitude of 900 m, 120 km north-west of the railway station Kultuk, 137 km from the train / railway station Sludyanka, 479 km from the city of Ulan-Ude and 210 km from Irkutsk.
Resort "Arshan" includes two sanatorium "Sayan" and "Arshan" sanatorium association of trade unions "Baykalkurort." The resort is situated in a valley at the foot of Tunkinskaya monumental Sayan loaches with snow-capped peaks, on a picturesque mountain river Kyngarga having more than 12 waterfalls. Undoubted interest for tourists is valid on the territory of the resort Koymorsky Datsan - Buddhist temple.
Major natural therapeutic factors - carbonic, little-mineralized, siliceous-sulfate-gidrokarbanatno magnisvo slightly acid-calcium thermal waters and sulfide silt mud, which is highly effective cure diseases of the digestive, circulatory, respiratory, urinary and endocrine metabolism. Mineral water resort Arshan have a wide range of temperatures, from cold (11-13 ° C) to hot (45 ° C). According to the chemical composition of mineral water Arshan, classification VA Aleksandrov, belong to class 1, as carbonic acid with a high gas content.
In the complex spa treatment used drinking mineral water "Arshan" balneotherapy (bath, therapeutic showers, irrigation), climate, diet, physical therapy, paraffin-ozokeritotherapy, physiotherapy, massage, inhalation, galotherapy and modern diagnostic methods.
Water is used for bathing and drinking bottled. Treatment of patients with diseases of the digestive, circulatory, and metabolic disorders. Sanatorium, clinic, bathing building holiday homes. Season - Round god.V half hour walk from the village is one of the largest waterfalls on the river Kyngarga. In the vicinity there are more than 30 Arshan breathing volcanoes. Last time they erupted in the Mesozoic era, but due to the presence of hot springs are not considered completely extinct.



71. Sayan
Immediately upon entering the Arshan traveler realizes that here the problem overnight will not - at every house sign "Housing" and even so people stand with these signs. At the end of the main street, mountains in the background is white bus. Without further ado, I arranged a night and day in the first Popeye's house, paying the same 300r. More and bathed in a warm bath for thanks.

In the morning I go to find out the bus schedule and meet a friend of Stavropol. They are already in the settlement day, managed to get around the sights. Small world =)



72. First of all climbed into the mountains. Mineral springs at the foot of free entry, but higher costs booth, and the guys take with tourists 50p for improvement.


73.


74.






77.






80.


81.



















































Friends!