Bashny.Net
Original taken in photo magazines Korzhonova Danila
Bashny.Net
Original taken in photo magazines Korzhonova Daniel
Big illustrated report | caution traffic!
Thin string or lake 400 km on skates!
Part 1:
It all started with a dream. Dream to see the pure ice of Lake Baikal, Siberia, to touch the shrine, to feel the power of Lakes and absorb its beauty. Although in addition to such high moral thinking did not leave the idea of a drive on skates at the rink and shoot hefty Baikal ice beauty. The path length of 400 km on skates was passed by us in less than 2 weeks and fit in these lines. Today I tell you about a great winter trip: about pure ice of Lake Baikal, about old friends and new good friends, about sunrises and sunsets, the sky overcast, good and evil spirits Olkhon ...
I dream a dream, but it is much nicer when they are carried out. 2 years ago the idea was born more - conquer Baikal. First thoughts were, of course, a little crazy: go around the lake, or at least from the south to the north. Then it turned out that the ice is rarely pure in the South and the North, and there you can just dig in the snow - and get off the route. Therefore began to appear more realistic option: Olkhon Buguldeika, Listvyanka ... Began to look for a team. It turned out that people do not understand me a little ridge in question. Sometimes you feel a little loopy when you stare with round eyes with phrases like: "On the skating ?! Yes, you will die there in the first hour - Well it's hard to ... "," you there because the wind will blow that fly so far to the Barguzin range ... "," to fly to Irkutsk in Europe is worth. " My soothing phrases in response to these pochemuchek were simple: "Yes, there are special horses! And find tickets cheap "," In the same winter quarters and hostels are everywhere - hide as Sarma blows. " Sedatives sentences have not worked - and the guys who went to: who Hibiny who Sayan, traditional skiing. I think if I just did not have the power to infect the enthusiasm of his friends: Phystech handed a diploma that year, there was some anxiety about the future and uncertainty.
One of course I did not go - the dream was cooked in the head once more a year. But she's so weary that this year just decided I am going! He began to write friends and strangers to Irkutsk, which could help in the drafting of an adequate route and assist in the organization of transport. First, the entire head broke itself how best to make the route to never get stuck, and a lot of time to look. Opinions of people have been very different. Someone suggested to base 25 km a day, someone 50. The ice of Lake Baikal is always changing: the snow falls, or a crack on the hummocks find - and write-lost even 10 km a day pass. Full reports on the ridge expeditions I have not found, and they are meaningless in this situation. I chose the basis of 25-35 km and Buguldeika starting point. I thought: at least to the Small Sea Dothan - and you can go there and if that. So selecting the appropriate term: 2 weeks, running from them 12 days. For some reason, then even 120 km figure skating seemed to me optimistic. And slightly grinned over his route. But in the end of the journey still surprised that my house nakalyakal route so well matched that we later defeated. And here is what we have conquered:
In preparation for the expedition was very helpful forum site angara.net. People go to sports and responsive, can be found for travel and car on zabrosku. The big mistake was to call the bus dispatcher Irkutsk. Dull irritated voice-aunt of radishes help narrated to me about that "nothing goes there, and even more do not ask." However, it turned out that the buses run, and even have the choice of where to sit, they're just with each other, "does not play well." So if you want to save - ride the bus in winter is only 400 rubles to the IFA, you can call on the subject of Khuzhir Tatiana (she rents a hotel there). Phones if anyone should - give through the mail. Other useful sources can see the end of this little story.
We booked a car to Buguldeika: we have 5 people with large backpacks - that we will disturb the people in the minibus ride. Up to 4 thousand bargain with the driver, it is considered the normal price - higher only for Muscovites. And when we were able to buy plane tickets for 11 thousand - a joy knew no bounds. Equipment is also looking for what is called "the world": horses took part at a friend who already went to Lake Baikal. www.marshruty.ru/Travels/Travel.asp...98-fcf5ba1032f4
By the way, their report and photos once gave me the idea of the journey skating on Lake Baikal. Their horses had to redo: put the mounting on the snowboard (lyamochki and fasteners). A pair of skates 2 we were absolutely extraordinary: Sasha brought from Norway special hiking skates! Lightweight, with comfortable straps - sight for sore eyes! But they cost suitable ... protection and fastening of a snowboard Nikita gave, and still had a lot of people who helped sleeping bags (we took 2 pieces per person or very warm), fasteners and other rags-iron things-plastmasskami. And yet for the ridge hike took the Soviet ski poles, pre imprisoning them.
For information on the Baikal places of beauty can be found, for example, here:
nature.baikal.ru/
A card for ZHPS here: baikalnavi.org/
We monitor the ice situation almost every day:
geol.irk.ru/dzz/bpt/ice/ice201203.htm
Now, for example, it shows that the snow brought everything completely. Baikal is preparing for spring.
Before going to spent a couple of workouts. Not to say that we are skaters, or any seasoned skaters. Some of us are skating once stood a couple of times. So we kept on training at one of these only the enthusiasm to go to Lake Baikal. However, the enthusiasm did not provided us with protection against falls and bruises successful. One of the training was in Shatura - there I naively wanted to experience the real skates on the lake, but the snow piled up this year, we bless you. It turned out only to be trained on a skating rink. It was also decided to take a sled drawing backpacks. Such special hiking sledge, plastic. By the way, one of Moscow's rinks me shamefully expelled from Norwegian skates. Apparently, for the excess. And they can accelerate to 25 km / h strikes a pair of hooves. On their gps then checked on Lake Baikal. However, the result of training we are not scared, perhaps added to the list of our equipment cat (which was then the absurd). And yet I came up with a great idea and very sensible to take an ice ax and drills for fixing tent on the ice. However, borax and ice ax were very happy to go on the lake, but vylazit backpack and did not want to.
So, the day of departure. The standard picture of what there is to conceal: a nuclear blast scattered our miserable rags all over the room, remains a couple of hours to collect all in a heap in a backpack. Compaction in the most brutal form did not help: the backpack was a giant. Affected our thrifty: 2 sleeping cats, warm clothes, fotobarahlo in large numbers: Nikon d80, nikkor 50 1.8, nikkor 70-300 4.5 / 5.6 vr, tamron 17-50 f 2.8, tripod, gopro. However, to put it somehow failed. Scales showed 40 kg. Well at least to me out of the house in Korolev near to haul trains (about Baikal somehow I even tried not to remember). However, do not turn sour gave availability toboggans for these behemoths. All sit down. The train-metro-train-plane. Good passengers naparyvayutsya our stuff, watching us with cries such as "romance, damn it." On inspection of all are long swords in backpacks and grenades. Not accustomed apparently to hikers skating.
Well, that's finally escaped from the clutches of Moscow. It's a blessing, when the dream starts to come true when in front - an adventure, full of life, light and movement. And so the house can be stuhnut: power pulls this city just as if he eats a lot of scurrying people.
The plane struck: forgot thermoses. Well, that will have to wait from 5 am, when the plane will fly up to 10 - to wait for the opening of the store. More had to meet Lёshku he had just returned from a night hike through the Eastern Sayan. Lёshu met immediately: we left a brown seasoned tourist. His view is clearly reminded us that we will soon be as beautiful. Repackages - buy Hawk rest - and go!
Driver Serge - taciturn drilled. But it is very calm and reasonable, drowns in his crocodile through the hills and foothills from Tanzheran. The clear blue sky, the sun is blinding. Trees fly past, villages, houses, prairies - cut down from two sleepless nights - again half asleep looking at parched color. Whether your eyes are tired, or not used to the sun: It seems washed-out, almost black and white. And the silence, only the motor car works, takes us on full steam in Buguldeika.
March 8
1. Well, we've come! It is already visible - a piece of the dream, the bend. Trying to buy water in the shop for lunch - no, there is only aerated. Aunt in the shop is clearly amused by my question about water. Well, something to cook dinner once necessary. We wanted a quick, to the ice did not drown. They went to the shore of Lake Baikal. Lepota! But while somehow scared to go out, this is an open space for the first time to get out. But when something is supposed to happen - out, a bit like on the ice. Impressions of the most unusual, delight. On the shore - big chunks of white stones. Apparently, marble.
Buguldeika was previously working village to transport rafts from the woods on Lake Baikal, and was immediately marble quarry. And there used to be an airfield. And now somehow all bends, many abandoned houses. I continue to search for water. He came to the area where the man forcefully tried to demolish a barn-toilet deft movements. I asked to bring water. For quite a whiskered smile and the phrase "And there Che - no?" (Indicating the side of the largest freshwater water in the world) I have nothing but stupid smile in response I could not tell. A man, however, did not resist - and the water brought.
2. lunch. Life is Beautiful. Satisfied fed balls popping out on the ice. Such beauty - though do not go anywhere. Crawl on the ice, icicles and Lapa icicles as children. We sprawled on the ice and watch the bubbles, cracks, turquoise coastal ice. Picture: 5 people crawling on the ice, swinging legs, running here and there and slap unaccustomed to the ice, shouting to each other enthusiastic phrases. Well here you might think the local fishermen?
Never mind, accustomed to. Started skating tasted - great slides, you can even turn the pedals almost - by itself carries. Immediately we come up with the design of how to fix sleigh rope belt. Good luck!
3. The first hour was very unfortunate in terms of mileage. I showered every icicles and tried to find the right angle, take a picture of ice hummocks. A hummocks around Buguldeika were among the largest and most beautiful in the whole our way: huge turquoise ice fragments were piled near the shore. The first sensations of riding - the freshest and brightest: then all the boring roll on the ice.
4. As shown satellite imagery, ice - clean. Just a huge ice rink. Viewed well white hills Barguzin ridge on the other side.
5. Backpack somehow hangs himself quietly back on the ice, it is not annoying and does not pull back. Day turns short: it is necessary to have time to winter quarters, and already Evening. Too busy with long icicles.
6. In the evening clouds are crawling slowly, gray Khmara lay in the sun. Beautiful sunsets to be seen. But already climbed to the shore, looking cabin. Not a bit of it. No winter quarters, and there is no trace, although noted on the map. Here's your cape "Naked": it was necessary to get a grasp of the name ... But it does not upset us: climbed the hill, stared at the setting sun, set up tents, lit a fire - are preparing a delicious meal.
7. That night fell. Surprised, she got a full moon. It seems that in front of you - the whole sea, where the water splashes, the moon reflecting shallow ripples.
8. Went for a walk on the night the ice, leaving his friends to cook around the campfire. Baikal squeaks, hoots, talking in his sleep. From Bing, cod and Hubble first starts, and then you get used to. It feels strength, power Lake. It lives, resisting ice fetters. Upstairs in the heavenly silence - the stars ahead - moon underfoot - chёrnota transparent ice, there was already water column. Natural space!
9. In order to get to the shore of the lake has to climb over a pile of hummocks on the shore. Small pieces of ice easily and loud crack. Digging among the hummocks night - a fun activity. It seems that the uninvited visitor accidentally wandered the graveyard of broken bottles and built there brawl. As it is a shame to wake up so Baikal ... I'll go to sleep and eat.
9marta
10. Something is not hot to wake up. Internal thermometer tells -30. Hoarfrost falling from the top of the tent by the neck until dostaёsh his body from a sleeping bag and put their shoes numb. Czech thermometer, someone screwed to the tent, did not seem to mind my internal thermometer: Czech has the ball at around -30 chill clinging red liquid inside the bulb itself, not wanting to go upstairs.
11. Khmara will not go away in the evening. Movement - that's life, warming skating.
12. This morning I was upset such weather, and for dinner (and even more - then) realized that the clouds over the lake - a real gift to the photographer.
13. Ice quietly fades, the clouds fly at low altitude, blocking the sun - and we, single men, we roll into the wilderness of Lake Baikal.
14. Not a soul around: no cars, birds and people. Only the wind noise, and the ice is cracking.
15. Ice perfect: smooth, smooth. Glide on this - a pleasure. Sometimes on the way encounter cracks. According to them, I was very worried about the house. I think - as the place will be even rope to want to take insurance. But here we were lucky: all the cracks were closed huge hummocks, and everywhere it was possible to get through to the next clean section.
16. We came to the Cape Krestovsky. On the hill it is really worth the cross, and next - a settlement of farmers. The weather is getting worse. Clouds down, apparently, soon will snow or strong wind rises. Anxious feeling.
17. From fear for his own skin saves idea about a cow on ice: next to the farm, right on the beach at the hummocks cows. I do not know what they guzzle, poor fellows, but they obviously lives here does not seem raspberries. And we have a new dream - to see a cow on ice. Traces of their ability to live rough there everywhere ...
18. Even stopped specially to wait until the cow deign to come out to us on the ice. But there it was - they did not want us to arrange a show-ballet. But we had seen plenty of ice hummocks on the shore. The ice at the shore extraordinarily beautiful turquoise. Lay afford such lumps and think how the same force had Baikal rage, to throw these pieces on the beach!
19. snack, lunch on ice - we go further. Then we drove up to the car. The men offer us climb up to them - and to go to the bath in a house in the gully. Their appearance on March 8, is clearly not the best way affected: men red bulging eyes, hoarse voice sleepy and lazy grin insistently demanded us to his home and bath. Severe Siberian marketing ... But horses - a good thing, they told us to crack, and its men are no longer going to move. And went further in his bath. There he and the road, in the bath.
20. Hummocks - like wings or sails of ships - rise above the black lake and ice. You look into the enchanting depth of the water under a - it addictive, mesmerizing.
21. And in the meantime the weather is changing every second: the clouds are gathering, the bowl of the Great Lakes straining under the leaden clouds, ready to smash to pieces the next ice floe at the crack of the sound effects shatters ice.
22. a blind eye to rest between the distillation - and see a network of cracks. They are still etched somewhere in the brain and sometimes rush bright lines in the head. Interestingly, it Baykal now lives in me, so leave your mark? Peace and harmony. Disturbing silence. What to expect from this wilderness? Zhmёmsya closer to shore until the rolls well. Sometimes the air break through sharp shooting sound of breaking ice.
23. Along the shores of Lake Baikal ice completely different hue than a kilometer away. As if someone drowned barrel of paint: bright and glowing as if from within. Inside - frozen-thin threads bubbles and other objects obviously alien origin. That's the same tried-nature artist!
24. There was sometimes the sun comes through the clouds, illuminating the ice like inside. I recall all kinds of physical things, in order to drown out the fear of impending natural elements. For example, remember that in the south of the lake is a wonderful plant for catching neutrinos. Baikal neutrino telescope - a beautiful thing: it consists of a few hundred light-sensitive photomultiplier tubes (PMTs, "Quasar") attached to a few cables and lowered into the lake at a depth of more than a kilometer. Externally, the design is a bunch of beads strung on a thread. Passing through the water, the neutrino reacts with a substance forming a muon.
Cold.
Source:
Big illustrated report | caution traffic!
Thin string or lake 400 km on skates!
Part 1:
It all started with a dream. Dream to see the pure ice of Lake Baikal, Siberia, to touch the shrine, to feel the power of Lakes and absorb its beauty. Although in addition to such high moral thinking did not leave the idea of a drive on skates at the rink and shoot hefty Baikal ice beauty. The path length of 400 km on skates was passed by us in less than 2 weeks and fit in these lines. Today I tell you about a great winter trip: about pure ice of Lake Baikal, about old friends and new good friends, about sunrises and sunsets, the sky overcast, good and evil spirits Olkhon ...
I dream a dream, but it is much nicer when they are carried out. 2 years ago the idea was born more - conquer Baikal. First thoughts were, of course, a little crazy: go around the lake, or at least from the south to the north. Then it turned out that the ice is rarely pure in the South and the North, and there you can just dig in the snow - and get off the route. Therefore began to appear more realistic option: Olkhon Buguldeika, Listvyanka ... Began to look for a team. It turned out that people do not understand me a little ridge in question. Sometimes you feel a little loopy when you stare with round eyes with phrases like: "On the skating ?! Yes, you will die there in the first hour - Well it's hard to ... "," you there because the wind will blow that fly so far to the Barguzin range ... "," to fly to Irkutsk in Europe is worth. " My soothing phrases in response to these pochemuchek were simple: "Yes, there are special horses! And find tickets cheap "," In the same winter quarters and hostels are everywhere - hide as Sarma blows. " Sedatives sentences have not worked - and the guys who went to: who Hibiny who Sayan, traditional skiing. I think if I just did not have the power to infect the enthusiasm of his friends: Phystech handed a diploma that year, there was some anxiety about the future and uncertainty.
One of course I did not go - the dream was cooked in the head once more a year. But she's so weary that this year just decided I am going! He began to write friends and strangers to Irkutsk, which could help in the drafting of an adequate route and assist in the organization of transport. First, the entire head broke itself how best to make the route to never get stuck, and a lot of time to look. Opinions of people have been very different. Someone suggested to base 25 km a day, someone 50. The ice of Lake Baikal is always changing: the snow falls, or a crack on the hummocks find - and write-lost even 10 km a day pass. Full reports on the ridge expeditions I have not found, and they are meaningless in this situation. I chose the basis of 25-35 km and Buguldeika starting point. I thought: at least to the Small Sea Dothan - and you can go there and if that. So selecting the appropriate term: 2 weeks, running from them 12 days. For some reason, then even 120 km figure skating seemed to me optimistic. And slightly grinned over his route. But in the end of the journey still surprised that my house nakalyakal route so well matched that we later defeated. And here is what we have conquered:
In preparation for the expedition was very helpful forum site angara.net. People go to sports and responsive, can be found for travel and car on zabrosku. The big mistake was to call the bus dispatcher Irkutsk. Dull irritated voice-aunt of radishes help narrated to me about that "nothing goes there, and even more do not ask." However, it turned out that the buses run, and even have the choice of where to sit, they're just with each other, "does not play well." So if you want to save - ride the bus in winter is only 400 rubles to the IFA, you can call on the subject of Khuzhir Tatiana (she rents a hotel there). Phones if anyone should - give through the mail. Other useful sources can see the end of this little story.
We booked a car to Buguldeika: we have 5 people with large backpacks - that we will disturb the people in the minibus ride. Up to 4 thousand bargain with the driver, it is considered the normal price - higher only for Muscovites. And when we were able to buy plane tickets for 11 thousand - a joy knew no bounds. Equipment is also looking for what is called "the world": horses took part at a friend who already went to Lake Baikal. www.marshruty.ru/Travels/Travel.asp...98-fcf5ba1032f4
By the way, their report and photos once gave me the idea of the journey skating on Lake Baikal. Their horses had to redo: put the mounting on the snowboard (lyamochki and fasteners). A pair of skates 2 we were absolutely extraordinary: Sasha brought from Norway special hiking skates! Lightweight, with comfortable straps - sight for sore eyes! But they cost suitable ... protection and fastening of a snowboard Nikita gave, and still had a lot of people who helped sleeping bags (we took 2 pieces per person or very warm), fasteners and other rags-iron things-plastmasskami. And yet for the ridge hike took the Soviet ski poles, pre imprisoning them.
For information on the Baikal places of beauty can be found, for example, here:
nature.baikal.ru/
A card for ZHPS here: baikalnavi.org/
We monitor the ice situation almost every day:
geol.irk.ru/dzz/bpt/ice/ice201203.htm
Now, for example, it shows that the snow brought everything completely. Baikal is preparing for spring.
Before going to spent a couple of workouts. Not to say that we are skaters, or any seasoned skaters. Some of us are skating once stood a couple of times. So we kept on training at one of these only the enthusiasm to go to Lake Baikal. However, the enthusiasm did not provided us with protection against falls and bruises successful. One of the training was in Shatura - there I naively wanted to experience the real skates on the lake, but the snow piled up this year, we bless you. It turned out only to be trained on a skating rink. It was also decided to take a sled drawing backpacks. Such special hiking sledge, plastic. By the way, one of Moscow's rinks me shamefully expelled from Norwegian skates. Apparently, for the excess. And they can accelerate to 25 km / h strikes a pair of hooves. On their gps then checked on Lake Baikal. However, the result of training we are not scared, perhaps added to the list of our equipment cat (which was then the absurd). And yet I came up with a great idea and very sensible to take an ice ax and drills for fixing tent on the ice. However, borax and ice ax were very happy to go on the lake, but vylazit backpack and did not want to.
So, the day of departure. The standard picture of what there is to conceal: a nuclear blast scattered our miserable rags all over the room, remains a couple of hours to collect all in a heap in a backpack. Compaction in the most brutal form did not help: the backpack was a giant. Affected our thrifty: 2 sleeping cats, warm clothes, fotobarahlo in large numbers: Nikon d80, nikkor 50 1.8, nikkor 70-300 4.5 / 5.6 vr, tamron 17-50 f 2.8, tripod, gopro. However, to put it somehow failed. Scales showed 40 kg. Well at least to me out of the house in Korolev near to haul trains (about Baikal somehow I even tried not to remember). However, do not turn sour gave availability toboggans for these behemoths. All sit down. The train-metro-train-plane. Good passengers naparyvayutsya our stuff, watching us with cries such as "romance, damn it." On inspection of all are long swords in backpacks and grenades. Not accustomed apparently to hikers skating.
Well, that's finally escaped from the clutches of Moscow. It's a blessing, when the dream starts to come true when in front - an adventure, full of life, light and movement. And so the house can be stuhnut: power pulls this city just as if he eats a lot of scurrying people.
The plane struck: forgot thermoses. Well, that will have to wait from 5 am, when the plane will fly up to 10 - to wait for the opening of the store. More had to meet Lёshku he had just returned from a night hike through the Eastern Sayan. Lёshu met immediately: we left a brown seasoned tourist. His view is clearly reminded us that we will soon be as beautiful. Repackages - buy Hawk rest - and go!
Driver Serge - taciturn drilled. But it is very calm and reasonable, drowns in his crocodile through the hills and foothills from Tanzheran. The clear blue sky, the sun is blinding. Trees fly past, villages, houses, prairies - cut down from two sleepless nights - again half asleep looking at parched color. Whether your eyes are tired, or not used to the sun: It seems washed-out, almost black and white. And the silence, only the motor car works, takes us on full steam in Buguldeika.
March 8
1. Well, we've come! It is already visible - a piece of the dream, the bend. Trying to buy water in the shop for lunch - no, there is only aerated. Aunt in the shop is clearly amused by my question about water. Well, something to cook dinner once necessary. We wanted a quick, to the ice did not drown. They went to the shore of Lake Baikal. Lepota! But while somehow scared to go out, this is an open space for the first time to get out. But when something is supposed to happen - out, a bit like on the ice. Impressions of the most unusual, delight. On the shore - big chunks of white stones. Apparently, marble.
Buguldeika was previously working village to transport rafts from the woods on Lake Baikal, and was immediately marble quarry. And there used to be an airfield. And now somehow all bends, many abandoned houses. I continue to search for water. He came to the area where the man forcefully tried to demolish a barn-toilet deft movements. I asked to bring water. For quite a whiskered smile and the phrase "And there Che - no?" (Indicating the side of the largest freshwater water in the world) I have nothing but stupid smile in response I could not tell. A man, however, did not resist - and the water brought.
2. lunch. Life is Beautiful. Satisfied fed balls popping out on the ice. Such beauty - though do not go anywhere. Crawl on the ice, icicles and Lapa icicles as children. We sprawled on the ice and watch the bubbles, cracks, turquoise coastal ice. Picture: 5 people crawling on the ice, swinging legs, running here and there and slap unaccustomed to the ice, shouting to each other enthusiastic phrases. Well here you might think the local fishermen?
Never mind, accustomed to. Started skating tasted - great slides, you can even turn the pedals almost - by itself carries. Immediately we come up with the design of how to fix sleigh rope belt. Good luck!
3. The first hour was very unfortunate in terms of mileage. I showered every icicles and tried to find the right angle, take a picture of ice hummocks. A hummocks around Buguldeika were among the largest and most beautiful in the whole our way: huge turquoise ice fragments were piled near the shore. The first sensations of riding - the freshest and brightest: then all the boring roll on the ice.
4. As shown satellite imagery, ice - clean. Just a huge ice rink. Viewed well white hills Barguzin ridge on the other side.
5. Backpack somehow hangs himself quietly back on the ice, it is not annoying and does not pull back. Day turns short: it is necessary to have time to winter quarters, and already Evening. Too busy with long icicles.
6. In the evening clouds are crawling slowly, gray Khmara lay in the sun. Beautiful sunsets to be seen. But already climbed to the shore, looking cabin. Not a bit of it. No winter quarters, and there is no trace, although noted on the map. Here's your cape "Naked": it was necessary to get a grasp of the name ... But it does not upset us: climbed the hill, stared at the setting sun, set up tents, lit a fire - are preparing a delicious meal.
7. That night fell. Surprised, she got a full moon. It seems that in front of you - the whole sea, where the water splashes, the moon reflecting shallow ripples.
8. Went for a walk on the night the ice, leaving his friends to cook around the campfire. Baikal squeaks, hoots, talking in his sleep. From Bing, cod and Hubble first starts, and then you get used to. It feels strength, power Lake. It lives, resisting ice fetters. Upstairs in the heavenly silence - the stars ahead - moon underfoot - chёrnota transparent ice, there was already water column. Natural space!
9. In order to get to the shore of the lake has to climb over a pile of hummocks on the shore. Small pieces of ice easily and loud crack. Digging among the hummocks night - a fun activity. It seems that the uninvited visitor accidentally wandered the graveyard of broken bottles and built there brawl. As it is a shame to wake up so Baikal ... I'll go to sleep and eat.
9marta
10. Something is not hot to wake up. Internal thermometer tells -30. Hoarfrost falling from the top of the tent by the neck until dostaёsh his body from a sleeping bag and put their shoes numb. Czech thermometer, someone screwed to the tent, did not seem to mind my internal thermometer: Czech has the ball at around -30 chill clinging red liquid inside the bulb itself, not wanting to go upstairs.
11. Khmara will not go away in the evening. Movement - that's life, warming skating.
12. This morning I was upset such weather, and for dinner (and even more - then) realized that the clouds over the lake - a real gift to the photographer.
13. Ice quietly fades, the clouds fly at low altitude, blocking the sun - and we, single men, we roll into the wilderness of Lake Baikal.
14. Not a soul around: no cars, birds and people. Only the wind noise, and the ice is cracking.
15. Ice perfect: smooth, smooth. Glide on this - a pleasure. Sometimes on the way encounter cracks. According to them, I was very worried about the house. I think - as the place will be even rope to want to take insurance. But here we were lucky: all the cracks were closed huge hummocks, and everywhere it was possible to get through to the next clean section.
16. We came to the Cape Krestovsky. On the hill it is really worth the cross, and next - a settlement of farmers. The weather is getting worse. Clouds down, apparently, soon will snow or strong wind rises. Anxious feeling.
17. From fear for his own skin saves idea about a cow on ice: next to the farm, right on the beach at the hummocks cows. I do not know what they guzzle, poor fellows, but they obviously lives here does not seem raspberries. And we have a new dream - to see a cow on ice. Traces of their ability to live rough there everywhere ...
18. Even stopped specially to wait until the cow deign to come out to us on the ice. But there it was - they did not want us to arrange a show-ballet. But we had seen plenty of ice hummocks on the shore. The ice at the shore extraordinarily beautiful turquoise. Lay afford such lumps and think how the same force had Baikal rage, to throw these pieces on the beach!
19. snack, lunch on ice - we go further. Then we drove up to the car. The men offer us climb up to them - and to go to the bath in a house in the gully. Their appearance on March 8, is clearly not the best way affected: men red bulging eyes, hoarse voice sleepy and lazy grin insistently demanded us to his home and bath. Severe Siberian marketing ... But horses - a good thing, they told us to crack, and its men are no longer going to move. And went further in his bath. There he and the road, in the bath.
20. Hummocks - like wings or sails of ships - rise above the black lake and ice. You look into the enchanting depth of the water under a - it addictive, mesmerizing.
21. And in the meantime the weather is changing every second: the clouds are gathering, the bowl of the Great Lakes straining under the leaden clouds, ready to smash to pieces the next ice floe at the crack of the sound effects shatters ice.
22. a blind eye to rest between the distillation - and see a network of cracks. They are still etched somewhere in the brain and sometimes rush bright lines in the head. Interestingly, it Baykal now lives in me, so leave your mark? Peace and harmony. Disturbing silence. What to expect from this wilderness? Zhmёmsya closer to shore until the rolls well. Sometimes the air break through sharp shooting sound of breaking ice.
23. Along the shores of Lake Baikal ice completely different hue than a kilometer away. As if someone drowned barrel of paint: bright and glowing as if from within. Inside - frozen-thin threads bubbles and other objects obviously alien origin. That's the same tried-nature artist!
24. There was sometimes the sun comes through the clouds, illuminating the ice like inside. I recall all kinds of physical things, in order to drown out the fear of impending natural elements. For example, remember that in the south of the lake is a wonderful plant for catching neutrinos. Baikal neutrino telescope - a beautiful thing: it consists of a few hundred light-sensitive photomultiplier tubes (PMTs, "Quasar") attached to a few cables and lowered into the lake at a depth of more than a kilometer. Externally, the design is a bunch of beads strung on a thread. Passing through the water, the neutrino reacts with a substance forming a muon.
Cold.
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See also
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Tallinn. Occupation Museum
