Misha and Masha - Circumpolar Karelian history Bashny.Net

In North Karelia, near the Arctic Circle, on the shore of the White Sea is Nilmoguba village. In winter, here are cracking forty-degree frost and snow sweeps the house half. The cold here bring smart belugas, and tourists pay good money to swim with these incredible creatures. Someone gets to the village to look into themselves and stop the internal dialogue, and for a long time in silence wandering through the woods. And someone comes from distant large cities with all their comforts and luxuries. Come to stay.

15 photo + letter via live_report

So - Misha and Masha from Karelia





2. "It all started with trips" Mary said with a smile when asked how she was in Nilmoguba. "I myself come from the Ryazan region. Is there such a city - Savior Klepiki. Do you know that? But I have traveled a lot, and that's got here. Also not without incident: messed up ships. " Mary said with a smile how I got to the location near the biological station of Moscow State University. There she made an offer he could not refuse Mary: "You want to work with beluga whales - arrives at the Biology and come to us. And then we'll see. " And so it turned out that because of the unique opportunity to work with beluga whales Masha traded Moscow for the near-polar village.



3. Day Masha begins early in the morning. It is necessary to drive the cattle, feed, wood chop ... And no there is nothing surprising wood Masha pricks like a real lumberjack. When I tried clumsily waving an ax, she patiently explained that I did not. And at the end carefully added: "Just do not break the ax - this is our last. Their children often break. They came in droves to see the exotic, and to do nothing - that's their parents to the point and puts. And they have a lot of excitement, but little experience, that ax and break. "



4. Sometimes it turns out that the day does not end there - if goats lambing, it is darkness at night. It happened in this time when we went to visit Masha, in a box near the door swarmed on wobbly legs little goats. "And as an evil - always very cold" with a constant smile says Masha. That night, the street was -42.



5. When it comes time to get ready for work, all the household chores have been taken. Masha harnesses domesticated reindeer to the sleigh at night, takes buckets of fish and sent to work - to the hole with beluga whales. Once the deer Masha was four, but after the tourists feed the animals some poison, two of them died.



6. Dive Center, which opened in Nilmoguba, a branch Utrish Dolphinarium, which is now experiencing hard days. Part of belugas (or, as they called the trainer, animals) was taken to the Barents Sea to participate in any project. The two remaining young beluga Nilmo and Matryona eyeing the Chinese - want to buy back the animals and with the coach to take to him. It may happen that the dive center will remain even without belugas. Most likely, having lost the main tourist magnet, it will lose the appeal and in the end all will be closed. "Nothing will extend" not without sadness says Masha, "Just hold out. We are working here on the toys - all sorts of goodies, a technique that's gone to India. This is all the toys. There will be no money, abandon them, nothing terrible will happen. " Then Mary says that she is still able to work on wood, I am able to do what Moscow called luxury furniture.



7. In the village a few years ago opened a shop, but that's to see what they sell, we have not had a chance: the hostess left the shop to replenish stocks, and before we left did not return. Not far from the store is a tower with a hefty satellite dish on top. At the bottom of the tower to the logs bolted bright blue phone booth, in sharp contrast with the white silence.



8. We often come to Masha and Misha visit. To our arrival welcoming hostess always puts food on the table: goat burgers, hot tea and, of course, cloudberry jam. And if there is nothing on the table to file, Masha gets behind the stove and begins to cook. After ten minutes on the table is already steaming pan with fried eggs. "The northerners so accepted: absolutely have to feed the guests."



9. "You know, we have in the village a lot of whom come. Now even it turned out that every family has a Muscovite or piterets. "



10. "This is our winter home - large and warm. We live here in the winter .. ". & quot; ... And in the summer we move to the nearby - it is more comfortable & quot;



11. Start talking - about village life, about dolphins and work, about trips and adventures. Around restless runs like a top three-year-Vic: run up, riding an invisible horse and then laughed again would start running around the room. Vika and her mother Pauline live Masha and Misha. Not because the relatives and just. For the jaded capital just to take shelter and a man caught in a difficult situation - a luxury. But here, in the circumpolar, life goes on other truly human laws. Towards evening comes Misha. Who is responsible for meeting all the tourists in the dive club. Tourists come day and night, and it's hidden in the back of his jacket in the far corner of the radio now and then comes to life and tells Misha about future visit. "Misha? It is also not here. His travels brought here, too. In fact he was from St. Petersburg, graduated from veterinary there. " Here, in the circumpolar regions, they met.



12. On the way back to the station to meet us in the woods caught skinny guy. It was myself, looking down on snowy roads. "This is because energy resou - internal dialogue stops. In general, they are harmless. In the summer here the whole community lives. In winter, however, almost all leave, there is only a couple of people to watch the house. "



13. It turned out that we did not manage to get out of the forest and just missed our train. Hearing this, Mary immediately poserёznela and started to solve this problem, then, is not a word, we sat in the car and able to take to Luohu where we were able to take the train to Moscow. Having learned that the problem was solved so well, Mary immediately cheered and started to tell the story of the camp trains, delays and funny overlays. Her stories all ended well, too.



14. There are blowing cold winds and the night can go snow that turns into a solid knurled road snowdrift. There thirty day frost is not terrible - in fact ahead of the night, when the temperature drops below the threshold of forty. In May, only then it begins to melt the snow, and the polar night is able to bring to mind. But people live here. Do not survive, do not exist, namely live.



15. "But we have more time to India to choose from! You know, there was this idea ... maybe someday, in retirement, certainly not soon, to move ... But what about that now. Wait and - see ... »



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