Decided to take off with friends in the summer on the Kola.

Decided to take off with friends in the summer on the Kola. Collected my top five and went. Crew - 3 people: me, Andrew and Boris.
The final destination was chosen the most northern point of the European part of Russia - German cape that Peninsula fishing. Of course, to go round the whole peninsula, need an SUV. We are only beginning to Shunem nose ...
Here the most interesting quote from our report. Hundred pieces of pictures and little letters, the end marked.

Checked out in the morning, in the evening already making the rounds, Peter. Shlissel'burg us remember this.

City center

Drove all night. At the entrance to Karelia we stopped at the post of DPS and instructed about the dangers of the movement in a tired state. In the morning we went already among the vast marshes.
We stopped to refuel in Kem. Bought a cup of blueberries, but forgot it on the trunk and he crumbled, leaving stains. Even bought a fishing line and hooks, but did not get them for the whole trip. Priparkovaashis at the station, sat on a little vikimepii in search of interest.
Under Kemyu Poduzheme airbase there. Andrew went with Boryanom view. I sat in the car does not turn off the engine ...

They returned briskly, jumped into the car and we rushed off to the side slip road. Everything was not so seriously - someone displeased voice guards here these ruins:

We were going to camp on the river not far from the Summer of Kemi. On the way, bought three-liter jar of cloudberry - it later carbon vidos. The first congress of the road led to some quarry.

Upon reaching the river, inflated kayak, and Andrew with Boryanom floated downstream, leaving me alone with bezopiloy. Firewood lucky - along the route were many road builders felled birch trees, a few pieces we zayuzat.
Hour they do not, the other ... I already pofotkat camp, and wood to saw, and threw fire. The sun was already creeping northward, and they still do not. A couple of times a hunter fired a signal and was about to go to Kem to declare the missing people. In nature point began to play: they crashed there in the doorway, and I was their parents in the eyes look ...

Bonfire already waning when they sailed. Turns out, while I sat and thought the devil knows what they're fun:

I do not know why the river is so red - like close any polluting industries do not. In the marsh around the water is the same. After spending the night on the beach, we headed further north.

Fool about Stella:

Through some 300 kilometers we were in Murmansk. Settled in already known to us with Andrew on a winter trip to the hostel. For two years there except a legal person, nothing has changed: just cheap and good. After a few days behind the wheel of such a thrill to steam hot shower ...
So about a jar of cloudberry. As we thought, she began podbrazhivat. Decided to cook it. Blurted out the whole jar in a pan, sypanuli sugar. But we remembered about it only when the smell of burnt cloudberry resounded across the floor.

Morning began the wildest part of the expedition, we headed to storm the northernmost point of the European part of Russia - a peninsula fishing.
Cozy room in a hostel:

View of the Murmansk

and the western shore

Aside Pechenga goes chic paved road. View back at the burning landfill.

A stone's throw from the road begins beauty. Pofotkat stopped.

Flora tundra incredibly rich, and perhaps even more diverse than in the middle lane. By such beauty does not want to go - sorry. But very gently. Having been in the tundra will not remain indifferent: for Middle and southern latitudes of the North seems alien nature.

The shore of the lake of transparency, which in the Kola uncountable set.

Remains snegozaderzhivayuschego fence

More beauty

While we Andrei ran over rocks in search of personnel, Boris did not lose time. Acceded to eat pancakes

Again beauty.

We pass a line of defense. During the Great Patriotic our Kola were killed.

In the area of ​​Old Titovka turn onto a dirt road leading to the fish. Ahead loomed Ford Mondeo! And I thought that once here, it means we have tru-zhypery

With difficulty Mondeo ahead and drive another kilometer, stopped to admire the waterfall.

Meanwhile Mondeo overtook us. Nafotkal, went further. Next stop is the picturesque hill overlooking the endless tundra. When you stand on top, the first thing that comes to mind - pee. When the ends, in the course are the stones.

Cyclorama tundra.

Russula under the tree.

The road turns to the right and bottom left are the remains of the art ...

Dangerous roads in the winter. Landmarks designated edge of the road.

After several irregularities in the cabin smelled of gasoline and engine stalled shortly - flooded carburetor. It was a shame to get stuck on almost level ground, but as any jeepers there are many, it is not scary. Four Hands carburetor quickly rabozrali-assembled and the engine wound up.

Reaching the peninsula average, we turned on the isthmus and was headed toward the ridge Musta ridge, where, during the Great Patriotic War, our troops heroically kept the defense. Halfway we stopped deep ford boost that we decided not to. Turned and went down the eastern shore of the Middle.
We drove not long, because at the same isthmus discovered something completely incomprehensible. Concreted on site were scattered remnants of some obviously military space technology: burnt puff fiberglass does not have any doubt in this.

Got the impression that the purpose of secrecy the entire installation has been destroyed by the explosion.

Just arrived home, we found out that it was a powerful MHD generator to create electrical pulses to probe the subsurface. So powerful that the Norwegians began to complain about the alleged nuclear test near its territory. Write that even almost "nuclear" mushroom rose from the electrodes, descended into the sea on either side of the isthmus.

And here we are on the shore of the Gulf Motovsky Berentseva sea. Through stones torn stunted daisies.

Bottle-traveler. Does anyone know what language label?

More warm tractor.

He pulls scrap:

Embarked on fishing. At the entrance - the abandoned village Four. Next - the only way for true off-road vehicles. Drivers encountered at the beginning of the path on Rybachy KrAZ and Ural safe to say that we do not will walk farther. Jeepers were more cautious estimates. We decided to go to the very end, until upremsya in insurmountable obstacle.
Nature Rybachi just rips the brain of the average inhabitant of the middle band. In English it is called eyegasm.

More views


On the soft tundra litter consisting mainly of crowberry and moss, very pleasant to lie. Crowberry - edible berry, watery, but not very tasty. As a means of thirst amiss.

Yet there is growing cloudberries. Before that, we thought that a bank is a little soured or fermented, but it turned out that the berry itself such. Harvested not become, for a jar of jam already Navara. But she ate well. It really is worth at least once in your life try. In the photo she is red, not ripe. When ripe, it becomes transparent orange.

In the evening we went to the sandy beach. Quite unexpectedly harsh rocky north.

Through three streams flowing beach. First - at the outset the beach - rocky, overcome without problems. Shore had second leveling shovel, because they were too steep.

One digs - others look.

Took with overclocking, not to get bogged down in the sand.

The most serious obstacle was a deep puddle at the entrance to Vaida-Guba. It's a shame to unfold when the target has almost been reached. Decided to take a chance.
When the motor is immersed in water, it begins to sound quite differently, as a boat. The idea that you're not in the boat, and in the car, a little scary. From the stove crackled - fan threw water over the engine compartment air intake zalivshuyusya.

We passed! On unprepared passenger rear wheel drive car! Yes! Here it is, the lighthouse! I believe that this conversation recording will be appropriate.

Lighthouse keepers were not very pleased to see us. Probably because the second hour of the night went.

We drove five hundred meters to the west, and finally stopped. Northwest wind from the sea, no matter how tried, could not prevent us to boil water for tea and instant noodles and warm stew on Belarusian Belarusian tile.

While basking in the water, put a tent.

The last frame before bedtime.

When we woke up from the sea flew endless fog. Such a fog has one advantage - you can calmly contemplate the eternal stone with a roll over in his hands.

After breakfast, we went to the beach. At the sight of huge stone slabs Andrew woke destructive instinct.

Some photos on the beach.

algae on the rocks


Perfectly smooth stone


Warehouse stone aypadov

Laminaria hyperborea - relative of the very seaweed, which is sold in the store. Too bad if we did not know and did not dare to eat it, though, Boris tried: "seaweed taste, just tastes better than a sale, and softer».
This alga is interesting because it loses much volume at drying, but the ability to fully recover if its wet. Dries, it can get wet many times that we have seen on the way home, putting the algae in the water at every opportunity.

Gathering camp, went to look at the lighthouse and the "village" Vaida-Guba.


At the entrance to the lighthouse left traces in the form of stickers visited here dzhipery and bikers from various regions


The main ritual - swimming in the ocean. At full immersion decided only Boryan.
A five-minute long video about swimming with interviews.

When we were about to leave the Cape came Tver tough guys who have been Rybachy foot! Muzhkoy if suddenly read - respond, gashes report.
After bathing, went to inspect the old lighthouse and the former buildings warriors.

View from the old to the new lighthouse.

Tver pedestrians and ocean.

Once there were military.

Going back to the same road.

A fishing crew met Nivas of the Kaluga region, sought in a puddle of fallen off the room. Agreed to be contacted by radio, if we find this number, but we have not found him.
Lunch or dinner on the average. Another reason to go crazy in the North - the polar day. We did not get into it, but even the white nights of great churning rhythm.

It was getting dark ...

It is not dark. We crawled to the side slopes at Pechenga.

Pechenga - is a solid military part. Civil buildings can be counted on the fingers. Gasoline was already on the wane, but the good guys Pechenga on a motorcycle with a sidecar in the third hour of the night suggested that the nearest gas station in the Polar.

Polar seemed quite civil township. Refueled, took the direction of nickel. Knowing the location of the well, turn off the track found on the departmental road Kola Mining and Metallurgical Company. Leads to the well posh stone highway for BelAZ, surrounded by piles of rock and lakes. But all this beauty we have not seen at night - there was heavy fog. First, they wanted to spend the night on the ground near the well itself, but still made the right decision to camp away from the noise there raotayuschey technology. Unfortunately, the well is actively working on the destruction of all.
The morning was so beautiful that the law of meanness that something bad was going to happen. We ran out of gas in the cylinder. Since the tundra fire breed nothing special, had to settle for instant noodles, brewed using a boiler and cold stew (unlike friends, I love her more than just a cold).

For comparison cite historical photos from the site of the well

Gathered, came to the buildings. First of all went to look very well. Sad spectacle: derrick demolished and cut into the metal, and among the ruins rusty pipe sticking anechoic (in the center of the frame).

12262 meters. Drown out and forgotten. In Murmansk regional museum there is an exposition on the subject. Generally zachetny Museum, recommend a look. And it was so.

Panorama drilling.

Started to rain, and we hid in the building.
Long storey building - is the headquarters of drilling. Partially looted, partly samorazlozhilos.


Dining room and kitchen. The last entry in the ledger of the September 16, 1993: "MANUFACTURED inspection. Crane is OK. "

Post drilling control

It was:

A small core storage for the current needs of researchers

Adjacent to the headquarters of production and repair shop

He is at the opposite end

The rain had stopped, went out into the street. Panorama of the entire complex

We have reached the extreme point of the expedition and now returns.
Autobahn. It turned out that he laid very close to the main highway Polar-Nickel.

The lake next to the road on the territory of the MMC, in which resets any muck. On the bottom of a thick sediment layer.

View of the hill with the Polar

When we arrived in Murmansk, looked at the gas filling. Two interesting facts: 1. for filling balloons must go on gazonalivnuyu station that will work only on Monday (it was Friday night); 2. The entire staff filling - two lovely women.
Evening Murmansk:

Memorial "Alyosha Monument, Murmansk».
Alesha inferior in height only in Russia Volgograd statue "Motherland»

View of the side of the Kola Bay

Admiring, went south.
By four o'clock in the morning we arrived in Khibiny and camped at Lake Long Kukisvumchorr under the mountain. The lake is clean but dead.

Swimming, kayaking, found on the opposite side of the box under the cartridges, which cut into firewood.

Climbed on Kukisvumchorr. Snow in August.

Boris - the most notable rock climber - climbed above all.

And took this picture. In the right part of the frame on the road you can see the car

Mountain beauty

The next day they decided to break through to the lake Hibiny Most Imandra. We stopped at a beautiful waterfall. There to meet the crew of the Kaluga region Niva: they still found the lost in a fishing room.

Shared with the guys maps, because as we have already identified their further route.

Drive through Hibiny failed - the road in the area of ​​training of field Partomchorr dirty and not suitable for Lada. Decided to call on the Grand Imandra through Apatity.
View at the Kirov:

But we waited in Apatity bummer. All we are interested in the territory seized JSC "Apatite" with its apatite-nepheline processing plant №2.
Let's go back north towards Umbozero. Decided to spend the night near the airbase deer, on the shore of Lake Hare. For dinner, grilled sausages bought in Kirovsk, and baked apples in a fire. Boil water to "Finnish tile" of logs, which I in my first learned on Yap. The recipe is simple: two cross + washed down a little gasoline saws. Lit from within such a thing long enough.

In the morning we were awakened by the roar of passing the Tu-22M3, and at the exit from spending the night on the road Olenegorsk - Lovozero saw this picture. Mobile launchers of the S-300 does not fit into the rotation

Heading for Umbozero by Revd. On the way to examine all sorts of military facilities. Here pictured Independent Radar Node Early-warning radar "Olenegorsk." Two long object - radar "Dnepr-M", high on the right - the radar "Daugava". View from the position of the tropospheric radio relay station 3/3500 (call sign "canvas").

Itself "Canvas" is already ruined and on Google Maps is not presented in high definition. The road is not overgrown due to mushroom, mushrooms grow almost on this very road. Everything looks so:

After passing through Revd arrived ashore Umbozero. There is beautiful, but very windy and so cold - place for spending the night does not fit.
Having strayed from the primers in an attempt to find a less windy place away from civilization, decided to go to a famous place near the river in summer. When leaving the track noticed that the handbrake turned drag and rear wheels is hot. Couple hammer blows - and curvature on the bumpy road parking brake cable guide restores shape.




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