To the Pacific Ocean on a motorbike - 2012

There were in 4 countries: Russia, Kazakhstan, China, Mongolia.
Did you see the two seas: Japanese, Okhotsk
There were in the Gobi Desert, the Baikal, Altai, Sakhalin.
We got to Vladivostok and back.

Maximum mileage per day in 1500 and 1400 km, though both times lunging. Part of the way passed with stitches in ZserG`a.

Mileage: 22,000 km, of which 1,900 have passed, we got out on the cord and 600 km were generally unpaved

Part 1: Road to Baikal

Perhaps, this trip has been the most difficult in all respects: the longest distance, most difficult and dangerous road, and the most difficult start.

Until the day of departure the trip itself was in question. First there were difficulties with money, and then some family circumstances put the whole venture in jeopardy.
By the way, this year we have agreed with the company "Satellite Tracking System", Chelyabinsk, so this time the tracks are without breaks, and our family and friends could watch our journey in real-time!

Finally, July 6, it was decided to start. On the eve of the city went through a "down memory lane", which in the evening had to be in Omsk. Catch it - that's our goal for the day.

The road from Chelyabinsk to Barrow "pleased" with asphalt and killed a large number of inadequate drivers, flying head-on in the most unexpected moment. A couple of times, even had to slow down to 40km / h. The situation is complicated by the fact that a few days before departure ZserG «earned» conjunctivitis, so we had to go with glasses, and sunglasses with bumps "jump" and the picture. Because of all this, barely exceeded the average speed of 80 km / h, with a fixed maximum speed of 180 km / h.

Not far from Ishim question arose: to go further by itself Ishim (about 570 km), or cut through Kazakhstan (300 km). Problems of selection was not that I did not want to spend time on the border, and that we were with Wasp and Nagano legal cross-border transportation of which was complicated by our bureaucracy. After a short deliberation, it was decided to take the risk, and burying the weapon deeper into clothes, we went to the border.

On the passage of the border on both sides spent the strength of 1:00, while only one Kazakh border guard wanted to look into our bags.

In the Omsk region moved closer to sunset. At 100 km from Omsk stopped to refuel and tried to contact the guy from the help-sheet. But our efforts have not been successful, so we decided to go in search of waves of memory. Another hour call and walk around the city - and here we are in the camp Waves. At 2:00 hours local time. A cursory acquaintance with the organizers and participants of the waves, and dinner about 2:30 - retreat. Noise and chaotic movement in the camp lasted a few hours. Mileage per day: 850 km

Salinas Kazakhstan

Morning in the camp started as soon subsided last vote. Someone put in order technique, someone was going to start early, and someone just kicked the stuffiness out of the tent.

In the camp we met a guy from Tryokhgornaya who rode with the waves and further to Barnaul. There we met a peasant 62x years, who traveled all over Russia, Europe, the 40 states of America, and was also in Mongolia and God knows where else. And this despite the fact that he had a concussion, and he occasionally loses his memory.

About an hour we waited for the construction of the column, and then spat and decided to drive themselves forward. They took the coordinates of the collection in Novosibirsk, and in a way.

The road was excellent, except for small areas with high rut. The only thing that upset - a large number of wagons. But in general you can go at the speed of 130-140 km / h, and by 18:00 local time, reached the entrance to Novosibirsk. We waited half an hour column or representatives of clubs, meeting waves in town. In vain. They tried to pass on the coordinates recorded in Omsk - came into the open field. Closer to 20:00 Finally participants were waves, who knew exactly where in the city the point of collection, and an hour later, a little lost in the city, we have settle in Club House Club Wildrivers (, where we We provide accommodation and dinner.

When participants Waves moved to relieve stress through the use of spirits, we are inveterate drinkers, we decided to go into town for a tour. Dressed, vyznat club members address Club House, and public transport went to the center to walk on foot.

The first thing we have in the city - a few handfuls of water in the face. It turned out it was the day of Ivan Kupala, and local youth suit "swimming", pouring water from buckets, water pistols and basins passing and passing people and vehicles, as well as the police tried to stop a disgrace). Then we walked along the main street, strolled along the Trans-Siberian railway bridge to the monument. From there - to the Metro bridge on the embankment on which then ride on the subway.

When we decided to advancing home, it turned out that all vehicles have "ended", and the clock was almost midnight. Navigator said to the base only about 5 kilometers. We decided to go on foot. However, after passing the 5 km, we were in a semi-abandoned private sector, in pitch darkness, near the unfinished construction. We are obviously not here. More wander the dark for about 10 minutes in a vain attempt to find their way to the area, we decided to call Sorge, president met the club. Specify the address. It turned out that the house, where there was a club house, was a corner, and we dictated the name of the street on one side, and the House - on the other. Estimate the distance to the new address of the place where we wandered, we decided to take a taxi.

We arrived at the base in the first hour of the night, we sat by the fire with a little wave participants, while due to the fire in the midst of the city, we did not come PPP. I had to go to bed. Mileage per day: 810 km.

In the morning we were able to sleep. Slowly we gathered and talked with members of waves and began to disperse. Some of the people are behind from the waves and rode the Altai, others were based on another day to rest. And we went to Krasnoyarsk.

Before leaving, turned into a museum of steam locomotives - the largest and oldest such museums in Russia. Here we met a couple from Chelyabinsk, who traveled to Lake Baikal, together on endurike. And it was not their first Dalnoboy! After the museum of steam locomotives jumped into the Academic town - ZserG`a home, we stopped at a local hydroelectric power station, and moved further east.

Away from the navigator has played a cruel joke with us, and took a detour is not the city, and through the center. As a result, traffic jams, we lost an hour and a half.

Ob Sea.

On the way to Krasnoyarsk jumped in Kemerovo, the capital of Kuzbass - quiet and clean town with bad gasoline, but for 23 rubles per liter.

Kemerovo - the capital of Kuzbass

Posted in [mergetime] 1358080309 [/ mergetime]
By nightfall to Krasnoyarsk not reached about 250 km, and stopped for the night of the traffic police station, right next to the ruins crashed in a bus accident in which 9 people died. But the option was not, and had to settle for a "comfortable" neighborhood. Throughout the night near the tent were heard strange noises like someone was walking around, and in the morning it began to rain. Mileage: 830 km

Sleep and failed around 3:30 in Chelyabinsk time we woke up to rain. We tried to sleep more, but an hour later the rain intensified, and we decided to get out from the curb to the road as long as it is still possible to do. The entire fourth day's journey went in the pouring rain. Rain after a few hours of "watering" is not saved. Because of the rain is nothing really managed to explore in Krasnoyarsk, but we have plenty of the present traffic jams that seem to have been here everywhere. In addition, in a city like no livnevki class, so the water was almost everywhere.


That's how we met Krasnoyarsk. In the shower is not seen practically nothing

Until the next major item on our way - Irkutsk - was about 1,000 km, of which until the night we did not mastered a little less than half.

In the Krasnoyarsk landscape has changed markedly: the right and left was the taiga, with the club between the trees and fog resistant cedar smell. Right on the road we bought a bag of pine nuts, which are then more than once helped us when we were left without dinner, for various reasons.

Kansk - military units and military airfield

The road has changed, too. Apart from a few small sections with a comb, the asphalt is good, but counting on it is a recommendation. Even the trucks do not comply with the solid line.

In an ideal road with excellent visibility and the absence of traffic police overtake wherever we want, sometimes even without the turn signals. For the entire day we saw only one traffic police patrol, and those on our focuses on the road just shook his head. And it does not irritate "not had time to readjust to his lane after overtaking." In fact, many travelers even in 2012 describe that on the road Krasnoyarsk - Irkutsk around 300t km off-road. We counted about 30 km. Upon arrival, we check out the GPS tracks and lay down those areas where the speed of the movement was less than 100 km / h. Such areas had accumulated 44 kilometers. So the road to Lake Baikal is now easy to passable, even sports.

We had to spend the night in the beautiful town of Toulon, where they found only one hotel, with a price tag in the region of 2600 per night. But proposals to rent a house for rent - in abundance. As a result, we have picked up quite a decent lorry for 800 rubles and 100 rubles for more determined TyGyDyma a covered guarded parking lot (local beers plant). Mileage per day: 940 km.

According to the established tradition since the beginning of the trip - sleep a day, slept in this morning, and lay the way - slept for the previous night in the rain near the broken bus. In addition, again I changed the time zone difference and the house was already 3:00, and we have not had time to readjust from the Chelyabinsk time. Therefore, when leaving the city, the clock was already late in the afternoon.

The benefit of going to this day, we were not far away - to the village average, under Sibirskoye, lives there and serves Irishkin classmate. After 4 hours, we were in place. However, we were wrong turn and accidentally drove into the guarded military airfield: ride there, take pictures, looked through binoculars planes, ride to the runway, and only then left the territory of the.

Classmate met at the checkpoint placed at home and Moto identified in protected box near the airfield.

The military part looks quite dull, the houses are not suitable for living even for the homeless. Passes that the village, which runs to the airport, just in case if you have a desire to go through the manual.

For the rest of the day we chatted and went to bed after midnight. Mileage: 320 km

Despite the comfortable accommodation, unable to sleep. The next morning began with an alarm - at 8 am at the service of Anton necessary. After an hour or so and we have already embarked. While Kate was preparing breakfast, start the computer to see on the site displaying our tracks, and nearly fell - on the monitor clearly be seen how the night TyGyDym slowly but surely heading in the night of boxing in the village to the settlers, and stopped in some swamp. Hijacked ?! They rushed to the boxes, flies inside - on the spot. It turned out the night were flight, including radars and radars, and they shot down a signal from the GPS. Hooray! Straight stone with soul.

Immediately we took the motorcycle out of the garage and did not even take back the apartment. Rose of things, said goodbye to the hosts, and went to Lake Baikal.

After 70-80 km were already in Irkutsk. Drive there is terrible. It looks like lead, only in Makhachkala, but the Caucasus is no malice ... Signs priority marking, speed limit ... all this there is no one watching. Not the street, and the game of survival. We quickly drove to the museum-icebreaker Angara, and decided on the lam from the city.

In the Irkutsk road became more winding and more and more like a serpentine. Km through 100, for the next turn he seemed Baikal! And then he died Navigator: broken off contact. Attempts to fix in place nor to no avail. Blind reached the lake, and drove along it, finding in one place down to the water.

By night, moving most of the day along the lake on a streamer, almost reached Ulan-Ude. About Baikal written a lot of articles, will not be repeated. The only way to Paris and expectations have been overstated. Mileage: 530 km


Part 2. Mongolia

We slept in a beautiful room overlooking the river Selenga, even with the shower!

The first point of the plan for the day was renovated navigator in Ulan-Ude. Rummaging in the records, we were able to find the coordinates of those who met the waves in the capital of Buryatia. So already at the entrance to the city we were met by a member of a local motorcycle club Opposite (, which took us to the hut -klab Moto-house, furnished in an abandoned GSK with a wonderful view of the city.


We spent almost the whole day. Thank you very much want to say to Eugene Champion`u. Despite the fact that we arrived earlier waves and has been working day and help the rainbow reception were provided to us. While some members of our club went to the navigation specialists Electronics, another man volunteered to be our escort and show us the city center. But to return to our hut Moto navigator was ready.


The sun was still high, and we decided not to spend the night in Ulan-Ude, and advance further towards Mongolia. Before leaving town, we took another escort from the club went to a very nice datsan (Rinpoche Bagsha) on a hill on the outskirts of the city. Rang the bell four seals, looked at the gold Buddha.


Golden Buddha

Bell four seals

Further our path lay in Kyakhta. It is in this town is the nearest to Ulan-Ude border with Mongolia.

On the way to Kyakhta we also turned to the Ivolga Datsan, the oldest and largest centers of Buddhism in Russia. There is not just one or two buildings, and a complex of Buddhist temples and structures, with the monks living here (in orange robes, just like in the movies) and members of the complex. The place is beautiful - be sure to visit.

Ivilginski temple

The quality of the road to the Kyakhta poor - a monstrous quality asphalt cool wagging among the many hills.

When we are already close to sunset, is to get to the Kyakhta, we got a nasty surprise: the border does not work around the clock, and on schedule, and our visit was already closed. By the way, as we found out the next day, schedule the border can only be seen inside the building passport control.

But nothing to do, had to spend the night right under the fence CPR. On the lawn near the gate, under a lamp to put up tents and park the TDM side by side on the pavement. With us here we spent the night truckers - whether in the evening took place, or do not have time to go through the same border.

And when we came to go to bed, when the door body standing next to us of the truck opened and out stepped a man in appearance obviously not a trucker. And after it jumped from the same woman in the same age - as it turned out, his wife. We met, chatted. It was found that a family of Russian immigrants, many years ago, settled in Germany, which are now traveling on the old military truck, converted by his own motorhome. They drove from Germany through Russia, Mongolia, and then planned to travel to China, Kazakhstan, etc. We offered us tea, and we sat up talking late into the night.

Mileage per day was 515 km

Nochka has stood restless: barking dogs border, and then drove some cars, the lantern light. Two hours before the opening of the border rose, slowly gathered again talked to the Germans exchanged their contacts with them, made a couple of photos on the memory.

By the way the border with Mongolia is the most fortified of all that we have seen. A huge number of tanks along the border, barbed wire along the border fence - a strip trace. In general - the boundary looks like in Soviet films.

By 9 am, all ready, we were standing in front of the gate has closed. The first in the queue! And then - horror - in complete silence to the border guards mobile x-ray comes on wheels. And we have weapons on the coffer raspihat "from 3 to 7 years in prison", because to cross the border with weapons - illegally. Nothing to do, turn around and go to the nearest forest, bury our wealth. So, in and out of Mongolia have not, as we had originally planned, is closer to Chita, and here in Kyakhta. After 25 minutes, again we have been in the queue at the interface.

Customs and pograntsy on our side are working very slowly and with extreme irritation. However, under the rays of rengten machines have still not sent. But it was all flowers against the fact that we waited on the Mongolian side.

Just like that.




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