Writes Alexander Zheleznyakov:
Kola peninsula, it just sounds scary mysterious, scary or just for other people in the country, probably because of the Gulag camps, with stories that Solzhenitsyn and Shalamov entered our subcortex. In fact, it lies in the heart of Lovozero region surprisingly rich, light, populated by good and hardworking people.
67 photos and text here
North, it is a very special region, which if begins to like, he does so unconditionally and permanently. And at some point you realize that you're interested not just go to the same place, as often happens with the release of the sea and want to discover new places and new, I want to know all the secrets of the north. For me, it is absolutely a southern man, adores Credizemnoe Sea, north not really give and did not open even once. Here it is not so - in the summer there is no black sky and stars but only gray mist that had shrouded everything to the roots of the trees of the taiga. In the morning she departs, leaving the grass dew drops. I love the twilight, the transition from day to night, especially from night to morning, and the idea to the north instead of the night should be the twilight. But somehow it all here in a different way, not just a night dark and gray. And twilight absent as a class.
Reindeer on the Kola Peninsula - this is the main animal of these places
3. Lovozero - the village where the locals cars, boats and snowmobiles - almost a mandatory set of vehicles.
Volodya met us in Murmansk took sleepy village of Lovozero, mentioned in chronicles in 1516. I do not know how people lived here four years ago, without thermal underwear, gorteksa and other technological items. Definitely it gives character to the north and raised here very different looks at the world, not as the children of the Black Sea sun.
On the other hand, they have the charm of the north, though not obvious, but they are important to look deeper.
Volodya says that people almost do not drink:
- Who booze, he was finally drunk, others work.
With work in our usual sense of the word here is not easy, as well as across the country. But northern nature nourishes people only need a little effort. When local start to talk about the seasons, it looks something like this:
- In May the fish spawn in the summer mushrooms are berries in July, blueberries, cloudberries in August for two weeks, etc. and so on. n. In winter, ice fishing engaged, on the farm deer roam the tundra ...
- And you have an off-season? Well, when you have nothing to do?
- It's two weeks in the fall when the ice on the lake did not get up and move around on the boat have not, and on thin ice even dangerous. And two weeks in the spring when the ice melts.
4. On one of the duct in the middle of the village of Lovozero
5. Lovozero went on to fish
Lovozero, in the sense of the village, vaguely reminiscent of Venice. Ducts lake pass right through the village and almost every inhabitant of a garage box with two outs in the land and in the water, where boats are stored, boats, snowmobiles and cars. The polar day is difficult to understand the change of time of day, people on the street suddenly becomes smaller, but just as light. Strange feeling for those who have always lived with the normal days and nights. The Lovozero transplanted to the boat - no more roads or off-road vehicle or on a boat.
Outdoor unpleasant drizzle and Volodya to travel across the lake to the base Yulinskaya Salma, gives us all kinds of insulation. A small boat is right in the center, on one of the duct. They went out with the machine rebooted and the path of Lovozero.
6. The weather here changes very often
7. small whitefish dinner
8. Whitefish desk
9. joyful CLP-based sniffs everything that sees
10. Britta very happy dog - worn on the tundra tirelessly
11.Poka walked decided to drink vodka, and bask in the north of this drink goes best
This place practically experienced human impact. Only the oldest of the Kola branch railway to Revda, on the west side of the mountains Lovozero tundra. Road planning to hold on to Jokanga town, where they built the base of the Northern Fleet nuclear submarines Gremikha, but the idea was never implemented and the entire eastern half of the Kola Peninsula remained quite wild and in fact only accessible from the air. But the road to Revda was dismantled a few years ago.
In the mountains, there is a deposit of rare earth ores and minerals, which are found only here. But in the neighboring mining Hibinah bigger and more grandiose plans than very saddened by environmentalists.
Lovozero began to appear on the camp site, although in the nineties it was very obscure backwater. But first someone first began to organize Sami plague and invited guests in the new year, then someone else and now here were very good camp site. In summer, on boats, in winter by snowmobile or reindeer.
Speaking of Sami and reindeer - Sami, they also falls, almost the largest peoples of Europe, who lives without their own state on the territories of four countries - Norway, Sweden, Finland and Russia. Their territory is called a word of Lapland. Soviet children still have to remember a cartoon fairy tale Finnish writer Sakariasa Topelius "Sampo-Loparenok." The Lovozero Sami is a very good museum, and every year on 6th February the international day of the Sami is arranged.
We were sheltered on the basis Yulinskaya Salma. By the way the place is very good, it's not the first base in these places, but now began to appear very good place to relax. On Yulinskoy Salma white nights in July and it is possible to bathe in a bath and then dive into the Lovozero. Mushrooms can be seen directly from the window of room for half an hour and you can collect a bucket. What actually engaged local residents - zagotavlivaya mushrooms for the year ahead.
March to the morning walking in the woods around the base - unless you know the path, it is easy to get lost. Mushroom as it is impossible to resist the temptation to try to collect all the deliberately sticking out of the grass. Half an hour later a full bucket picked mushrooms, and even berry glade. When the berry-hypnosis mushroom ends suddenly realize that lost any orientation in space. Well that displays the path to the next house on the rugged shores of Lovozero. It is home to the Sami family, came from Lovozero on a summer residence for the summer. On the site there is a small tent and smoked fish hanging from the ceiling. Sami little drunk but friendly. They say how they live, how to smoke fish in the tent, and what herbs to enclose the fire to smoke appeared necessary. Then on his boat transported me Yulinskuyu Salma.
And in the evening Volodya go out on a boat to the middle of the lake to fish, but apart from small whitefish, or as they call my guide, sizhkov nothing is caught. From the middle of the lake is very well seen the gorge, which is hidden Seydozero. Hence, this place seems very strange and mysterious, and above it always travel along cloudy. Not surprisingly, the mystics so loved Seydozero and consider it the habitat of the Hyperboreans, the mysterious civilization of the ancient myths and legends. Tomorrow, we go there, I want to see with my own eyes ...
12. Not far from our base Yulinskaya Salma lives Sami family - it's almost like a cottage, they spend the summer here, and in the winter back in Lovozero
13. Sami smoke fish in a special tent. On the floor, throw a small fire and constantly enclose it in a variety of herbs and twigs to fit smoke prokoptit fish hanging in the top of the plague
14. tundra line and berry bushes
15. seids scattered along the banks of ozeraLovozera and on slopes of mountains with the strange name Lovozero tundra
Before the trip was the most difficult to put in mind the geographical concept of "Mountain Lovozero tundra" - some totally Russian phrase which brought together three geographic concepts - mountains, lakes and tundra. But in general, that's right: the mountains, called Lovozero tundra - Lovozerskie because Lovozero lake near here, tundra, because on the mountain tops - solid tundra. Sami logic ...
The next day, the son Volodya, a boy of fourteen, took us on a boat to the foot of the mountains rising straight from the depths of Lovozero. Stones overgrown with moss, and there is no trail as do a few steps into the forest, there is a cloud of mosquitoes around. It becomes easier when to get out above the forest and releases entirely on the bare plateau sloping mountain - the wind blows away all the insects in the valley and can be a little strip.
Hence, with the Rocky Mountains and overlooking Lovozero and Seydozero. On the way across several Sade - towers built of stone. Esoteric considered their Sami heritage, remaining less exalted - the work of geologists who have worked here in Soviet times. Volodya shows the remains of the house-shelter where geologists were hiding from the weather during the work on the plateau. A little further views of the rock on the western part Seidozero.
- It Kuyva ... you see the image on a giant rock? - Shows Volodya. - According to Sami legend, he was a giant who had killed a lot of old Sami, but then they called their gods and they won Kuyva. So says the legend, and the curious descended on ropes from the cliff and say it's just growing moss in a bizarre form.
- But maybe Sami gods Kuyva nailed and hung it on the carcass suschitsya rock and forgotten? And then he moss and overgrown? - With a completely straight face I tell him.
Vladimir looks at me as abnormal until I finally do not laugh loudly, it is clearly ridiculous all esoteric legend Seidozero.
17. This small
18. More seidh
19. Ridge on the left Okuda seen Kuyva
20. bottom Seydozero - then go traverse along the slopes and then rolled down to the hut
21. More seidh
22. At the top of one of the country's lakes masonry - is that some believe giporboreyskoy remnants of civilization, but Volodya knows exactly what is hiding geologists who have worked here in Soviet times
23. One of the waterfalls along the way
24. August in the mountains are snow, maybe wait and fresh snow
25. Sometimes it seems that they have eyes
26. Our guide Volodya
Volodya takes us through the mountains to the descent, where the forest is a hut. On the way, shows traces of the reserve medvedya.Tropinki neat through stream bridged - huntsman is clearly trying to neighborhood Seidozero not turned into a dustbin. Climbers hut built long ago in memory of those killed in the avalanche of friends. On the table is a kerosene stove, on the window erotic drawing on Russian folk tales and notebook, where all who have been here written in the guest book and the story of the journey ...
27. rangers made bridges on the tourist trail
28. lodge in the forest looking for
29. Vladimir merged with the forest collecting firewood
30. hut, which was built climbers on the spot death of a friend, to have always been a shelter astray.
31. On the window in the house sad sexy girl
32. On the table kerosene stove and paper, where all those who spent the night in the hut write kind words
35. Two plague stand at houses rangers - inside the bank with the words: "spend the night for free, thanks to your discretion." True plague is not authentic and purchased. Volodya says that technology devices tents very quickly disappear - not the tradition handed down from father to son, the Saami and Komi live in urban environments and to forget the roots.
36. Mushrooms are in the books - can be illustrated by the description of
37. Local huntsman reserve Seydyavvr (so called Sami Seydozero) keep order, put labels, cleared the path and made bridges across rivers
Jaegers are good, a few years ago attracted volunteers who cleaned the trails, made bridges, put pointers. They say that some company wants to build here something like recreation center for Seidozero it would be a tragedy, clearly Hyperborean spirit evaporate, and the disorder obsypetsya Kuyva a cliff. Better to let the rangers look after the order and preserve the spirit of the wild ...
39. Park rangers feed birds from art feeders
40. And here comes along a forest trail and parking lots where you can put the camp
41. The small island on Seydozero
42. flower on a log
43. The same beam
44. Low clouds frequent case here - the second part of the tour of the lake Rayyavr failed
45. Paportnikovy forest
46. The old stump mossy
47. The mountain rivulet of water replenished Seidozero
48. crowberry - berry that is very fond of the bear. I also tried it, but it is very bitter aftertaste
Sami traditionally bred reindeer, and in the late 19th century, people here suddenly moved Komi people from the Urals. They are also engaged in reindeer herding, but suddenly began to hurt the deer and several large families went on a long hike from the Urals to the healthy deer. A couple of years they reached the White Sea, saw on the other side of the shore, the ice moved to the Kola Peninsula and settled with their reindeer near Lovozero. Our Volodya, too, Komi. In general, the farm he also has a few deer, even though he complains that recently privateers reindeer herders very stifled. They are harder to support their family of deer, large collective farm flocks do not give
49. The deer walk across the tundra and eat cloudberries
50. Very affectionate and home easily fend for themselves
51. The owner of the herd lives on the banks of Lovozero, occasionally came there to the city
52. Deer happy to eat crackers, eating berries
53. Volodya knows around almost all - brought us to his mentor for the reindeer, which he still taught in school how to deal with the deer. Today my wife and I live on the wild shores of Lovozero and tending his flock.
54. Deer almost tame, unlike the semi-grazing on the tundra
55. a paradise for mushroom pickers
56. The old stump
57. Mushrooms are growing and so ...
58. and so
59. commercials and
60. and this super-berry cloudberries. It is growing in bogs and trouble with it a lot, and because cloudberries. but take 600 rubles per kilogram, and it is a good opportunity to earn
61. Mushroom and fly
scale hit northern usual
65. Panorama Lovozera in terms of jumper with Seidozero
66. On the same point, but Seydozero
67. Another view of Lovozero, but in the left corner of the visible piece Seidozero