Ode borscht

More poetic, sublime and delicious descriptions of life in the preparation of borscht not read. It is a poem. Oda.



Alexander Genis
The fact that the soup in all respects requires great responsibility, because it is - the peace pledge of national identity. Foreigners who assume care for them and kebab - Moscow kitchen, but a Russian man knows full well that the soup came to him from the Ukraine, and she will never forget this. Deeper policy increasingly important and boundaries of the Crimea, soup dissolves Slavic squabbles took goodness that does not capture the tanks.

I love soup, like the prose of Gogol and Bulgakov, for Ukrainian accent and flavor. The geography of the Russian subconscious Ukraine plays the same role as that of Provence in France. Therefore, there is something south, warm, generous in this borscht. It has more sun than in our soup, its structure more complicated soups and borscht, like Mozart, never boring. Astronauts say eat it in orbit, starting with breakfast. At the same time, you can prepare the soup of all that grows and usual - geese, pigs, ducks, kohlrabi, immature apples, beans and zucchini. In fact, it is - beet soup diluted imagination.

But the king of borscht - one, and it was said to both grandmothers - Buriak. So I start ahead of time, with kvass. To do this, the hill chopped beets pour boiling water, put in a warm place and wait until the vegetables brown float island and maroon slurry begins to Shiba nose bubbles like soda. On the fourth day, you can chat in the morning Pour beef brisket strained beet kvass, put the pot a little more to the very small fire and start messing around with the rest.

Borsch requires not only diversity, but also a special approach to each ingredient. I wash the potatoes but do not peel, I cut the cabbage sword, turnips - plates, parsnip - rings, onion and carrot sauté in sunflower oil hot bench. Beet and then released. First, it directly into the skin, it is necessary to bake in the oven, then peel, chop and thoroughly sprinkled with lemon, gently put out in a deep frying pan. All - for the sake of color. The right soup can dip a brush and writing slogans. Another measure of success is the appearance of the kitchen. If it looks as if it killed the pig, you are on the right track, and we can move on to the grass. Dill, parsley, green onions - the more, the better. And even at the very end - a ritual subtlety. This is - mashed garlic with a slice of bacon with that old musty smell specific, which cast down strangers in the terror, Russian - in the emotion, and replaces the Ukrainians ridnu house.

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