Hormones in cosmetics: a game without rules

On the subject of modern media discuss very much, but at the same time to make any definite conclusions is not possible. Because the question of whether there is hormonal makeup, all together answer: Yes! And to the question whether one or another brand of hormonal ingredients, all together in the same answer: no! Arguing that hormones in cosmetics banned in Europe and America, and, of course, in Russia.

Wider circle

Finding such a strange unanimity, we realized that without an independent investigation we can not do. And went in search of facts, mercilessly sweeping aside all sorts of assumptions and hints. We interviewed a wide range of professionals: professors and associate professors, candidates and doctors – dermatologists, endocrinologists, cosmetologists, representatives of certification bodies and bodies of consumer protection, managers of distribution and manufacturing companies and perfumery and cosmetics Association. A total of 19 professionals. By the way, many of those with whom we managed to talk, did not want to be named.

But this seemed to us a little. We decided to find out for sure which cosmetics sold in stores contains hormones, so he gave the examination several creams that cause consumers the greatest suspicion.

Looking ahead, I must say that we are faced with two completely opposite realities. The first is those involved in the cosmetics market who live by the letter of the law and carefully monitor compliance with all existing regulations. And the second (in fairness I must say that they are much smaller) ignore all prohibitions of feeling completely comfortable, because in our country, as it turned out, for there are all conditions. Well, everything in order.

From the stove

We started with the basics and tried to clearly define what hormones are, how they are terrible or useful and what is needed the skin.

According to endocrinologist MD Valentina Fadeeva, any biologically active substances circulating in the blood of human, animal or plant SAP, are proud to naimenovaniya hormones. In humans they are produced and muscle and bone and fat tissue, which allows this term to be interpreted very widely.

But the word "hormone" to denote products produced seven endocrine glands – ovaries, testes, pituitary, adrenal and parathyroid, thyroid and pancreas glands. Problems in these glands – endocrine diseases and any hormonal imbalances that affect the skin and hair.

So says Professor of skin and venereal diseases of the Moscow Medical Academy im.And.M.Sechenov Nicholas Potekaev, a shortage of thyroid hormones makes the skin dull, anemic, even facial expressions becomes weak, can occur the total omission of facial tissues when it seems that the only solution is a surgical facelift.

The disadvantage of this female hormone, like estrogen, also has a direct effect on the skin. There is a significant decrease in the number of collagen and, consequently, deteriorating elasticity, premature wrinkles arise. Moreover, estrogen is responsible for blood circulation in the head, so its lack leads to deterioration in the condition of the hair and even hair loss.

But the male sex hormone – testosterone — with a degree of redundancy in women leads to excessive greasiness of the skin, acne and "unauthorized" owolosenia.
Substances from the group of corticosteroids cope well with excessive dryness of the skin, inflammation and even different kinds of dermatitis.

From the foregoing it is possible to make an unambiguous conclusion that hormones skin needs, and certainly could be effective in solving skin problems.

Under lock and key

Still, the use of hormones in cosmetics for a long time and quite categorically prohibited. The first such decree was developed in the US already in 1949, in Europe, Declaration of the EU was adopted in 1976, and in Russia this question was settled only in 1998, but in the same unambiguous form. Why so effective a component that easily copes with many cosmetic problems, nor permit the use in the cosmetic industry? The thing in the side effects. These intense drugs in uncontrolled use can lead to serious complications.

Such as:

1. Rosacea blood vessels when they lose their elasticity and ability to shrink, causing the skin appears red mesh.

2. Anemia of the skin, when without "doping" it ceases to perform its functions and, as a consequence, it becomes smooth, shiny and transparent.

3. Hirsutism when the application of hormones ( we are talking about ointments or creams) start to grow hair.

4. The General imbalance of hormones in the body, which can lead to undesirable consequences including cancer.

Therefore, clinicians are absolutely sure that a single scheme for the application of hormones, even outdoor, can not exist. And use them only under a doctor's supervision that has always been possible to adjust destination. Now imagine that hormonal cosmetics are widely available...

Guarantee that bad looking because of chronic fatigue thirty year old woman does not want radically to rejuvenate it, no. A healthy person additional biologically active agent is simply not needed, because the body itself produces them in the required quantity.

In this case, the extension of the appointment will change the balance of the body, m will be a self-suppression of the production of hormones.
However, Valentin Fadeyev believes that the hormones must act systemically in the bloodstream, and their local effect is unlikely to be able to solve some skin problems.

If we apply the biologically-active substances for aesthetic purposes, comprehensive medicinal drugs.

By the way, especially that the admission of estrogens to postmenopausal women is a very popular form of treatment in Europe. During this period, 80% of French women and German women use hormones to prevent menopausal changes that occur and have an impact on appearance. But it is in any case can not be a cosmetic procedure.

Outside the law?

Up to this point the story seems quite logical and. Yes, hormones are there, but in cosmetics, they cannot be used as dangerous, and forbidden.

Then why don't we rarely find the word "hormones" in the cosmetic industry? That is a violation of the law or the introduction of the population astray?

As it turned out, the modern understanding of the term "hormone" is extremely expanded, and now it is often used, simply labeling the biologically-active substance, says Valentin Fadeev. Human hormone has a steroid structure, and this structure is very common in nature, it can be found in a wide variety of plants, even in sunflower oil. Therefore, in certain marketing purposes hormone-like substance can be called many plant and animal ingredients. Of course, it would be "highly far-fetched", but for the inexperienced consumer may sound extremely attractive.

Vegetable "likeness"

The use of classical hormones is prohibited for the reasons described above, but their effectiveness is not disputed. And remains "miserable" technicians to go in search of substances most similar in composition and action.

Among the most common "likes" are phytohormones in various interpretations. Special hopes in modern cosmetology rely on phytoestrogens, which are extracted from various plants such as soya, ginseng, red clover, alfalfa, flax, licorice, hops, toffee, and red grape.

It is believed that these substances acting according to the principle female sex hormone, can perform the same functions. But still in science, the debate continues about their effectiveness. Opinions are completely polar. Some believe that phytoestrogens do not have any similarities with the action of human hormones and therefore not able to exert any significant effects on the body, while others prove their ability to cope with very serious problems female hormone imbalances and even (unlike true hormones) to prevent cancer.

Specialists are United in one thing: phytoestrogens do not have the hormonal side effects. And unlike the "classics" are not able to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and act systemically on the entire body.
But plant extracts can provide skin with beneficial nutrients that are quite satisfied with cosmetic manufacturers. Especially since some of the properties of phytoestrogens are appreciated by all professionals. First, they are good antioxidants, can prevent aging.
Secondly, have the ability to "cure" problem skin. And thirdly, well established in the treatment of baldness.

It turns out that the ingredient is good, and in itself harmless, and it sounds beautiful – "plant hormone!".


All of the above applies to those "players" of the market, which honor the law and looking for possible options for amicable coexistence. But there are other, reaching for the violation of the law, and oddly enough, the reasons for this disregard of the sense of self-preservation several.

There is a category of "ideological" violators of law, who believe that the panic surrounding the use of hormones created in vain that certification authorities worldwide went on the most simple way: instead of separating "the wheat from the chaff", and have banned the use of all hormones. And often only these substances and can help a person get rid of multiple skin problems. Future cosmetics, I think "ideological", still for hormonal therapy. After all, the local effect of creams and a small concentration of active substances in them determine the small probability of side effects from their use.

Especially a lot of confusion in the salon business, as the products that has showrooms, defile on the verge of cosmetic and medical devices. So, during the procedure of mesotherapy used hormonal drugs for the treatment of cellulite, anti-aging skin, getting rid of scars .... And just comprehensive cosmetic care for home use may contain a banned dietary substance.

The certification Bodies told us that hormonal substances may contain some cellular cosmetics. Either the producers are unable to clear them from raw materials because of the banal lack of money, or left them specifically for more effect.

And finally, there are those who specifically adds hormonal components in order to low cost their product to be the most effective way to ensure good sales.
Thus, a question arises: how did they pass certification? Or are they just ignoring her?

Will not carp!

Most often, the necessary papers have similar products available, because without documentation, stores and salons will not take it at the. At any time can come trade inspection, test and fine. How did these documents get?

We interviewed representatives of many companies which, naturally, did not wish to be represented, and that's what we were told.

Due to the fact that the market appeared a large number of research laboratories accredited by Gosstandart, they all need to earn a living. Therefore, the market is a real price war when these labs are offered for less money and in much shorter time to conduct all the necessary checks. Naturally, to explore all the rules do not have time, and special reagents are very expensive, so not always used.

Anyway, it is impossible to check cosmetics for the presence of any prohibited ingredients, as they are not one and not even tens and hundreds!

Of course that usual cosmetics, where there is no "cellular" component, the hormones do not check.
She runs research on the safety of products (toxicity, bacteria, etc.), and also is examined, revealing the presence of those ingredients specified by the manufacturer on the packaging.

Trust, but verify!

A serious problem in the field of quality control in our country, says the Executive Director of the Association of manufacturers of perfumery cosmetics and household chemicals (APPIC BKH) Sergei Dukhanov:

The system of pre-market control of cosmetics (and many other consumer goods), leaving our customers totally unprotected. The fact that cosmetics in Russia will receive a state certificate of conformity before goes on sale. It would seem that this is correct. But only at first glance. In fact, pre-market control of unfair manufacturer provides a lot of possibilities for placing on the market of unsafe and substandard products.

Far more often than you can imagine uninitiated, certification bodies are directed to the samples, appropriate regulatory requirements, and upon receipt of the certificate in the sale of travel products with very different properties. In the stores on in the best case will check the availability of documents, the contents of jars and bottles is examined very rarely.

In Europe there is a completely opposite system of control of safety of products. The applicant, whether the manufacturer or its distributor puts the product on the market of any EU country freely, without any permission or even notification of state authorities. (The exception is the initial placement of the cosmetic product. In this case, the applicant sends a notification to the competent authority of the country where he places a product for the first time.)

But in any case, the applicant assumes full responsibility for the safety of the offered product in compliance with European cosmetic legislation where the list of ingredients that are prohibited and permitted for use. And we are talking about security, because the parameters of quality perfumes and cosmetics in the EU to be assessed not by government agencies, but only of the market, i.e. the consumer. Another aspect of product quality is under the scrutiny of regulatory authorities – compliance with the stated qualities. If the jar says that the cream reduces the appearance of wrinkles, it must work in this direction. Otherwise, the applicant is solely responsible for the introduction of consumer confusion.
But after the withdrawal of goods on the market the sovereign's eye never sleeps! In each country there are special Supervisory bodies on a regular basis and, tellingly, at the expense of the state budget for publicly and privately – produce the procurement of goods and send them to an independent examination. Will show a tacit verification that the owner all right, so he does not know that he was tested and will work in the same mode. But if we identify violations, followed by "control" of procurement in accordance with the applicable rules of criminal procedure, and the case could result in not only administrative, but also criminal liability.

The rescue of drowning...

Imperfect public monitoring system, unscrupulous manufacturers, the vast power of money – all these are the realities that no one in our country is not new. So what about those buyers who don't want to use hormonal makeup, but don't know how to avoid it? Unfortunately, the exact recommendations can not be. Hormones it is impossible to determine by smell or by touch.

However, according to Svetlana Kovaleva, doctor-dermatologist company "Tsentus", some "symptoms" still exist.

Guard, if the cream provides very fast results, and especially "strange", if the makeup is cheap. Traditional media needs to work as coaches, and if they take over the functions of the skin, giving an immediate effect, it already an occasion to reflect (outset that we are not talking about special creams that are designed to quickly bring the skin in order, say, to the festive evening. They usually surface action with a lifting effect, and by morning, their effect disappears).

Withdrawal should not occur for the same reason as cosmetics helps the skin to "work" on their own. And after completion of the course she needs to function well and to Shine, instead of immediately fading back to its original (before the procedures) state.

We are not alone

However, do not think that the problem of unscrupulous manufacturers only exists in our country. Not so long ago the American market was discovered baby cream "with herbs", which actually contained a serious hormonal drugs from the group of corticosteroids (the ones that are used in medicines for the treatment of atopic dermatitis).

Naturally, these ingredients were not specified in the composition, and the parents had no idea what powerful tools they put their precious children.

It smells hormone?

Taking advantage of a certain freedom in the use of terminology in the discharge of sex hormones, and sometimes include pheromones — substances that are periodically added to perfumes as aphrodisiacs, helping to attract members of the opposite sex. With their "relatives" brings their very high biological activity, but to the classical hormones, according to doctors, they real have no relationship. Debate in science on this subject does not cease. There is no denying their possible actions, but the consequences are still poorly understood, therefore, to treat such products to be with some caution.

Himself researcher

Interviewing various experts, we realized that no, we will not answer the main question: what specific products contain hormones? Well, we decided to dive into the Internet and chose the stamps that raise the greatest doubt among consumers. The "suspects" were sent to an independent examination to the Laboratory of the state scientific center of antibiotics.

Were selected 5 creams intense action the following brands:
1. Magician Kay, day cream from the "Perfect solution"
2. Vichy Novadiol night cream
3. "Plazan" night cream "Balzakovskiy"
4. Normaliss universal cream anti-wrinkle complex
5. "Mirra Lux" night cream for the face

We didn't expect it to be a difficult and expensive process! Hormones or derivatives thereof, which in one way or another can be used in cosmetics, big set. To determine them is extremely difficult, and often to give a definite answer impossible. More research is needed on the molecular level, and spend them only the Department of criminology.

So in this article we can only announce the initial results of the study.


What kind of disease they say the wrinkles and complexion

Living water. Live food


The laboratory confirmed the purity of the first three products from our list, and the remaining two required additional analysis that will require additional time. The editorial Board continues the work started, and we will inform you about the results. published

According to the magazine "news in the world of cosmetics"


Author: Hope Fistula


Source: www.medlinks.ru/article.php?sid=19859


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