Waves nailed to the shore

waves generated in the reservoirs is a change in the water level, wearing the periodic nature of space and time. The waves are caused by factors such as the wind, the Earth's rotation, the infusion of the rivers in the seas and oceans, sea ebbs and flows, high-speed vessels means. From the impact of various factors and the rate depends on the length of the resulting waves. The deeper the water source, the greater the speed and wavelength. When the wave motion involved only the surface water if the bottom of the reservoir at the same depth, they do not bottom chuvstvuyut.

Since the depth of the water at the approach to the beach is gradually reduced, and the speed of the waves to the shore also decreases the wave crests initially reaching a large angle to the shoreline wrapping, close to the shore is already in parallel. This is called reflaksatsiey. At low depth of the bottom near the shore, the waves can not generate. Since the waves diverge from the source, and he is not at the waterfront, the energy from the source, respectively, go to the beach. Although it is possible and so that the waves of the shore there is only a small ripple, and at a distance from the shore the waves grow and move away from the coastline. This happens when strong gusts of wind from the shore disguised forest belt or a steep slope. Regardless of the direction of the wind, with waves of water in the water off the coast of hollow shoreline water level in the reservoir rises above the average, and falls below the average benchmark vody.

If the water level decreases, the water in order to make up for it rushes toward the shore. But it should be borne in mind that the highest group velocity of water near the surface is achieved only because the bottom due to friction is significantly reduced rate. Since the bottom level increases as you get closer to the shore, the water flowing to the coastline only on the top layer. During more excitement, regardless of wind direction near the coast there is the circulation of water, that is, the inflow is on the surface of the water and drain - along the bottom. If the bottom level continues to decline, the outflow is carried along under the surface layers of water. In the absence of wind the group velocity of the waves near the shore nearly coincides with the phase, ie, the observer can see the movement of the wave crest to the beach. See also: Why are icebergs do not sink in the sea water? Cuban white sand beaches (9 photos). Pink lake on the island of Middle (9 photos).

Source: po4emu.ru/index.php?id=61