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As Russian vatnik 80 years ahead of eco-friendly collection of Stella McCartney
Russian unova jacket into fashion – quilted jackets and then there are on the world podiums in men's and women's collections. Meanwhile, the jacket is one of the most eco-friendly garments of the 20th century because they make it from crushed scraps of old fabrics. At the same time experts predict a rise in demand for elodeju on the Russian market.
On the days "Events" rehabilitated padded as the subject of men, nor indeed of the female wardrobe. Quilted jackets several seasons appear in collections of famous design houses and, apparently, not going to leave them.
If you look a little deeper into the story, the jacket, of course, a Russian invention. A method for the industrial production of cotton was invented in 1870 by the Germans, Paul, and Alfred Hartmann. Then someone must have figured out that wool can fill the clothes. And since the late 1930's, Russia began to mass produce the quilted jackets, cheap quilted jackets.
The jackets were mostly made of wool, and wadding. It is made from recycled materials, namely crushed waste from sewing and weaving. Recycling old clothes, scraps of cloth arranged in several stages. First, the raw material sent to the scutching machine, then to carding and then to a special machine for the production of batting. It is prepared from woven recycled materials, make layer and, if necessary, prostragivajut it.
"We offer waste garment production more than the demand for them. Because of this, some production batting in Russia closed, – said the sales Manager of the company "alpha Tex" that produces batting, Diana Martynov. – Still batting used for military caps – as a lining. And retail sometimes purchase as a lining for the coat."
If in the Soviet years, sustainable fashion was still unconscious, but today the rate of organic cotton, recycled materials and certified to do many respected designers. For example, for several years in a row as the fashion house releases a collection for the movement of the Green Carpet Challenge.
The main adherent of eco-friendly fashion is now considered to be Stella McCartney. It is fundamentally in their collections does not use real fur and skin, working with the organization PETA ("Organization for the ethical treatment of animals") and accompanies their products animal welfare slogans.
Once a year it releases a report on how environmentally friendly its production. Namely, how much water, light and other production resources, it has saved the items of the collection is made from recyclable plastic, and some organic cotton and certified wood. Designer turns into an ode to the ecology of even the smallest details: for example, the metal elements in the collection of bras made from recycled metal. And she deliberately emphasizes this on their website.
Lyudmila Norsoyan, Russian designer, lecturer at British higher school of design, founder of brand fashion high-tech knit Norsoyan:
With a padded jacket, it was this: in the 70-80-ies of the 20th century foreign students were taken from the Soviet Union as a gift. Especially girls like to take a couple home and tearing away the collars and sleeves, to wear as a conceptual jackets. And then, when there was a nylon fabric weighing up to 28 grams and a new generation of insulation, our quilted jacket is unrecognizable for us has turned into a new piece of clothing – a quilted jacket, which now bears the whole world. For example, Nina Donis had his own variation on the theme of the jacket, I personally pretty.
If we talk about environmentally friendly clothing, then this is the theme, which remains the Russian market. Producers don't heavily advertise that clothing made from recycled materials, because take into account the traditional attitudes of the average Russian citizen to buy clothes. After the poverty of the Soviet era, when everyone always wore and reshape, I wanted everything new, never worn.
Meanwhile, the market is already prepared. Look at the children of the "zero" that has grown on IT and is free from any prejudices. From the clothes they demand the ratio of the design, price and comfort. Underwear – well, jeans too. I feel like violently and actively developing the market of clothes in innovative materials.
The Scandinavian countries are most receptive to eco-friendly fashion. They have learned over the centuries by inheritance to convey respect for the world and the things that fill this world.
Megan Virtanen, fashion historian, collector of vintage clothing
A fashion spread on "ecological" clothes will likely depend on two factors. At least from the spread of the ideology of ecological approach. More from the real economic situation and incomes of the population, because at the moment very often, "green" clothing is more expensive, and the average consumer vote with their wallet.
Manufacturers do not advertise the recycled materials, because we have a strong bias against "made from leftovers and scraps". For the citizens it is often associated with poverty and scarcity, heading "Home master" from the magazine "Science and life" and other methods of survival, when resources are not available and you have to figure out how to do something from what little there is. Stirring by the use of residues, recycling of old and unwanted for too long was part of the "culture of poverty", the mass consciousness is not yet ready for a full revolution of values.
I believe that sustainability and fashion can be combined, is not for nothing that fashion during the second world war all over the world were extremely ingenious and decorative, despite the fact that mainly because of the conditions, had to settle for what scraps, remnants and recycled.
Sergei Naumov, makeup artist
I think the jacket is cool. It can even be worn in the style if good pick up shoes and accessories. You know, for our winter or a fur coat or jacket. Environmental clothing is to keep up with the times, to use "clean" materials. I do not frighten recycled plastic. Stella McCartney, for example, made from such a collection his points. It's good both for us and for the environment, which is important. Every modern person should understand it.
source: recyclemag.ru
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