I advise you to read about how one brave biker of America decided to motocross through the territory of our country. Bold, as a foreigner, the solution;) look.
Travel to Russia - for the more adventurous. Even for a foreigner visiting Moscow or St. Petersburg already stress and overcome themselves, although they present Russia in these cities will not see. Today on Air - superbizon! Doug votki American, born in Alabama. Although, as recognized by the hero himself, he does not know where he lives: "If it is not in the garage - is on the road».
Once Doug planned trip around the world. His road lay through the former Soviet Union, a terrible evil empire. No, an American himself admitted that his first Russian frankly frightening: his childhood had at the height of the Cold War. But he singled out for two months to see the child's fear in the face, conquered vast Russian roads.
Motorcyclists - people are a very special breed. For his circumnavigation Doug chose iron horse named Harley Davidson 1962 (!!!) years.
Was two months ahead of the road ...
So, on and everywhere - says Doug, I only translate his travel notes.
Okay, so. The first thing I'm going to Toronto, where we sit down with the bike on the plane to Glasgow, Scotland. Spend a week in Ireland, and then straight to Brussels. Through Ukraine'll move to the north, to Moscow, and from there to the east, through Russia, Mongolia, in the end, Japan. Perelechu out to the West Coast of America and the house is getting close. I have to be home to the first of October. I hope so. Hahaha.
And yes, I know I'm an idiot. I have a hell of a good motorcycle Triumph Tiger, but he was collecting dust in the garage. I do not travel, do not run around the crew, I do not have huge sponsorship budgets. I did not give a free bike for its advertising, and I'm hardly going to cry at the camera after a hard day. That's why I'll never be famous.
After a few days in Kiev I went north to the Russian border. Always nervous about crossing them: no one knows what might happen. The road to the border was quite good. Stopped for the night in the border town to push early utrom.Ya decided that it would be better than to get stuck in the queue and sleep in Russia is not clear where.
Ukrainian border was passed for 45 minutes, without all the fuss. Just to get to the Russian customs, I waited for half an hour. We had to fill out a bunch of documents. Naturally, they all were Russian. Some traders even in Ukraine tried to sell me insurance for Russia $ 112 for two months. I thought it was expensive and was right: Russian I bought it at exactly half the price of $ 52.
On the border there was a small conflict with the officer. He did not like my pedal bike. He said that these weapons! Like, I can take it off and give it to someone on the head. This guy was just asshole. As well, any stone on the road this weapon, why you do not take away from the road? The officer did not speak English. All that he did - went for help to the head. The boss came, looked at the bike, shrugged and said that I could go further.
Jesus! I was literally beaten this way! Repair mustard fucking shitty asphalt road! They can not make a normal tour, the joints are obtained at an angle down, it hurts a lot when you're on a motorcycle! Had to stop every 50 miles to tighten things that strove to fall.
I drove to the Bryansk and settled in the hotel, completely beaten.
Two months here it? Damn !!!
First met Lenin in the journey. It still Ukraine, some village.
This guy ran out of petrol. I shared with him a couple of liters, so that he could get to the gas station. Fortunately, you can always find an empty beer or a bottle of vodka along the roadside.
I stopped to rest when this guy drove a scooter. Also without gasoline! He was happy when I offered to help him, but he said that he needed only a good gasoline, ninety-five! He did not want to fill in cheap gasoline in his stool.
On the border.
Stopped to refuel. At the station, was an icon of the toilet. Ye gods, the toilet was fragrant !!! Iron floor was corroded. It would not fail!
Drove in Bryansk to find an ATM. When returning back to the track, I was stopped by the police. In Russia there are checkpoints on the borders of cities. Cops selectively stop drivers and check documents. This officer interested in the bike. He examined it from all sides, asked a few questions, and then let go. Most of the posts I have exactly what took place, in contrast to Ukraine. There's almost always require a bribe.
Looked at the war memorial in Bryansk. During WWII there was a big fight.
Met a couple of motorcyclists at a gas station. They asked not to Bike Festival I going? I did not know about it, and the guys showed me on a map how to get there. The rally was held in the city of Maloyaroslavets (say it fast, fast three times!), And I got there, koenchno, gone.
First, I needed to buy Russian sim card for your phone. Today was the birthday of my girlfriend, I had to call her. Finally, I did it and went to the party. It was awesome! They say the biggest in Russia! Thousands of people and a lot of booze! And some very interesting bikes. Well, hot chicks, of course!
I even met a few friends. This is Ilya, we saw on motoslёte in Germany.
I hope he will not play on the go.
This motorcycle engine from the Russian car "Zaporozhets».
Only in Russia!
After the festival, I went to Moscow. The roads are much better, but I know that they fuck up again when I head to the east. So I'll cherish the time! Elijah, whom I met at the Motor Festival, invited me to spend the night with him. We went for a walk around the capital of Russia.
Leaving Maloyaroslavets, I did not immediately was on the main road by the wrong direction. This way requires minor repairs, do not you think?
Red Square. You can not stop, so we'll just quickly sfotkalis.
Then, when I placed Ilya and left the bike, I went back to Red Square to visit Lenin. He is in place, the body shown to the public, and then another and cleaned every night. Inside pictures is prohibited, even you are searching for photographic equipment! It lies in a glass coffin and looks good. Well, for a guy who died 85 years ago! A lot of protection. Inside you can not stop, you should go after the group.
"Kremlna actually means" fortress ". I do not know. In Russia there are many different kremlins.
On Sparrow Hills offers a great view of the city, and all bikers Moscow come here to chat. Almost all modern motorcycles, this is almost no old school, so it did not really look at that. I would like to be there 5-10 years ago when people did not have all this crap Japanese.
Last day in Moscow I spent on party. The next morning went to the east and immediately stuck in horrible traffic jams. It took me two hours just to get out of town.
Traffic in Moscow is hell! The roads are very confusing. Sometimes there is no left turn, and you need to make 27 turns right, then 13 times to pass under bridges, to finally turn left. What to do if you missed the right street and you need to turn around?
Oh, and there are no street names. Some street width is five or six lanes in each direction. And everyone feels cool racer! This is a very scary shit, I want to tell you.
My GPS does not work here. I downloaded the Russian card, but the device does not understand the Russian alphabet.
When I was close to Vladimir, I met Russian bikers on the road. They asked if I was going to the party, and I again, as before in Maloyaroslavets not chickened out, "Of course going! - Though he heard about the party just. I followed them. We're a little lost, hit the primer, then left on the pavement, there is also lost. And, finally reached the gathering. It was a small party, just a couple of hundred people, but it is to their liking: you can meet everyone. The entrance was paid one - 500 rubles, and for an amount that could have any number of the entire weekend! Great offer, I believe!
On Sunday I got to Nizhny Novgorod and met Dmitry and Ilya. Other. They showed me the city, which was closed to foreigners during the Soviet era: it did submarines, and no one could come without permission. It was sucks!
Me and my buddy.
View of the Volga.
I bet he turn softer than the Harley!
The next day was cloudy. Dmitry reassured meteorologists said it would be cloudy, but no rain. I knew that definitely get wet!
Trying to get to Kazan, but rain forced to get off the road before. I was cold and wet. Around six in the evening, I stopped at a roadside cafe for coffee. There I again met motorcyclists (CSOs with Australian numbers!). We got to talking, and then it was too late to go somewhere, and I rented a room here, on the road.
Looks like a motel in Russia? In room two to four single beds. If you come alone - arenduesh the room, all the beds! I was offered a room with two beds, and I asked why I should pay for both? Hooked someone to me, I do not mind. I was told that it's not accepted.
It was a rainy day in hell.
I left the hotel at six in the morning. Sunny morning. I enjoyed the road and ogodoy. Had to drive 650 miles to Perm. Long way to go, but I woke up especially so early in time to get there before dark. The first 200 kilometers were beautiful. And then it started to rain again. Not strong, but very unpleasant. Once again, it became very cold. I even saw a prostitute on the roadside, which wore fur leggings under fishnet stockings. Or she just legs are hairy?
In Udmurtia, the road turned into shit. Here it is also called "repair", I saw signs! This went on for a very long time, not only in the country but also in the town, which I just drove. Mud and potholes all the way through the city! And still very heavy traffic.
Now I'm somewhere in the middle of nowhere, gasoline is running out, and I'll see the sign "rough road". Fuck !!! It's hard to explain, just look photos.
This truck was one of the brave souls who waded through all this dirt. It is difficult to determine the depth of ruts and puddles on the eye, but my bike was half axes in the water. This went on for about 15 kilometers.
Why do not they want to fix it? Yes, the devil knows! In the end, I just fell off the bike, right in one of these fucking puddles!
It was necessary to make more photos of the road, but it was not easy: every time to stop, to get the camera ...
After ten kilometers I found a gas station and stood on it to wash. Of course, they had no water, so we had to wash in a more or less clean pool.
Just before refueling was once a police station. Of course, I stopped to see the documents. I'm covered in mud. "You have not said a police kryla-. "Thank you, Captain Obvious! This chopper, here and should not be! ".
Food on. After 50 kilometers slows me down another cop with radar jumping out of the bushes. What the devil? I know that does not exceed the speed. Okay, here's my fucking paper. "Why not have wings on a motorcycle? - Again the same question. I answer him that broke it to the devil on your fucking road! He does not understand what I'm saying, but let.
So, ten o'clock in the evening and a hundred kilometers to the city of Perm. I want to sleep! In the town there are two small hotel, both say "no place", although parking is absolutely empty. So I arrived in Perm after midnight, in the rain. I met Sergei, who shelter themselves. And I finally saw the shower! Oh, it was divine! I washed off the dirt almost as long as waiting for this moment! 18 hours of driving. I was completely broken.
In Perm, I wanted to see with his friend Vladimir, which met in 2006, the day on the road. But he went on a fishing trip, so contact gave his friend Sergei, saying that I could stay with him. One important thing about Russian: even if you do not know of a person, but you're a friend of their friend, they automatically become your friends. And do absolutely anything for you.
The next morning I gave Harley the sink, and at the same time asked to check if everything is okay with it, I did not lost or broken in transit. The wife and daughter of Sergei went with me to walk around the city, while he was at work. Perm is another former closed city.
New monument to the founder of the city. I asked why they spend money on monuments, instead of repairing the road? I was told that build monuments easier.
There is still a lot of cold wooden houses. In the area where he lives Sergei such a lot, but instead gradually grow large expensive houses behind high fences.
Choose your dinner for free poultry market.
These guys are so used to people that need only show them food - they will be in your hands. Just grab a couple and put them in a bag. Home awaits excellent BBQ!
We went out of town. Perm is located near the border of Europe and Asia.
On Friday I was even at one biker get-together. Quite a big event, with lots of bikes and hot chickens. I do not remember the name of the city, but it is close to Ekaterinburg. Of course, there was a riot. OMON riot police this Russian police. All his men are huge and cocky. I saw five huge police felled one is not very good guy, almost jumping on it. Good thing it was not me!
Imagine: you look in your mirror and see an armored truck that says HOMO (the mirror image of riot police on Latin fonts - HOMO. Approx. Macos). It makes ass shrink only one thought!
Okay, back to tёlochkam!
Oh yeah, there is also motorcycles were!
I continued to move east, in the direction of Omsk and Novosibirsk. The road was in place in order, but, basically only a little better than before. And there is nothing around, only the forests and swamps ...
Wherever you travel in Russia, everywhere you will meet such people sitting on the sidelines and selling some nonsense. These people will spend all his time sitting on the ground, trying to sell your bucket something that they're selling. And More Come see old ladies selling on the roadside villages, you will see and quite young people, even a hundred kilometers from the nearest village.
Police ambush in front of the motel, where I spent the night. Had the pleasure of watching them as they stop the car. Even a couple of buses stopped!
Met Hans from Germany. He got to Magadan and returned back to Europe.
After Krasnoyarsk road ended. It is best to say "turned to shit." Holes, rocks, gravel, even more holes! Broken asphalt, sand, dirt, mud ... fun!
I think that now in Russia is more off-road than ever before. Because when they were built, they were new. Still can not believe how I did not break anything, neither myself nor the motorcycle.
This route M53, the main highway!
In the courtyard of the police station was a bunch of motorcycles. I was told that sometime in the day, they will be sold at auction. I also want to "Uralza twenty bucks, gee. So, the next place, "the middle of nowhere." Of course, the police stopped me. The inspector obviously had a thing about motorcyclists. I think his wife ran away from him to the biker, so he was angry, and, despite the fact that all the documents were in order, I saw that he was dissatisfied with something. Just dig me, asshole. Maybe road dust hit him in the brain or it is always so.
Siberian Starbucks. What is missing is a pair of girls sitting with a cup of coffee for his books. Yes, coffee is much cheaper. Would you like to get coffee? They took the cup from which just had a previous visitor, poured a little water, rinsed and poured a new coffee. Not taking the extra money for the dust.
That'S Funny. Leaky asphalt they "darn", scattering the stones, and then passing them grader. Pylischa is a pillar, the road not getting any better. Would not believe that this is possible, if he did not see!
After Tulun road becomes much better. She is still broken in the villages, but beyond good. Okay, it's better.
I went back to "tsivilizovannyymir Siberia. Irkutsk.
On the local market you can buy anything you want. Even animals. Even manual owl. I need a hand owl! I came to the market in a taxi because it was far from the place where I was staying, and find it difficult. The driver was a girl. Probably the only hot chick driver around Irkutsk! When we got to the place, I paid and added a bit of tea. Than just shocked her. Apparently, there is not accepted to tip taxi drivers.