Around the Black Sea on a motorcycle: 8 countries and 7500km
Everyone is resting in its own way. Someone is looking forward to the spring to get into the train and go to your favorite 6 acres. Someone is waiting for summer to pack their bags and fly toward the bright sun and warm sea. Someone hangs shoulders backpack, guitar and goes away from civilization that at least for some time to forget the stuffy office and bustle of the big city. Vacation - how much of this word for a person who can freely dispose of their only 30 days a year ...
July 3 weeks holiday, each of these days you need to plan so that then it was not painfully hurt for aimlessly spent time ... On one side of the scale - the numerous cases that are postponed for a year and that in any case will have to do. On the other - the new country and experience the fun of the road. Short doubt and decided - a trip.
How many interesting countries and how much desire to see everything at once. Belarus is located so that it is safe to go beyond it in any direction - will be guaranteed a pleasant experience. However, the southern countries attracted more. It is the sea and the sun, and friendly, welcoming people. Long wanted to visit Georgia - a country in which, as a one-pot, mix the architectural heritage of the Soviet Union, with green mountains growing on their slopes grapes, excellent wine, boundless hospitality and openness of the Georgians. And be sure to try the real Khvanchkara - wine is the pride of Georgia. I wanted to pass on streamers Transfăgărăşan located in Romania. Wanted to visit Bulgaria and take a dip in the Black Sea. In general, like all at once. The only thing that did not want to - is back on the same road back to be able to see a lot of new places. By combining all of these requests received route through the Black Sea: Belarus - Ukraine - Moldova - Romania - Bulgaria - Turkey - Georgia - Armenia - Georgia - Russia - Belarus.
Select unit of combat
Travelling by car are always pros and cons. The main advantage - it all depends on you. You can change the route during the trip, stay longer in your favorite places. The main disadvantage - it is driver fatigue and the need to control all aspects of the trip itinerary, places of overnight stays, meals, especially to pay for expensive and more. Plus the cost of travel by car is higher than a bus ticket or a plane. But what choice could there be when the process of driving pleasure? When you can smell the meadow grass after the rain, to feel how the temperature of the dense heat at the foot of the mountains to the freshness, bordering on cold, on the pass. There is no choice - the motorcycle. Someone shook his finger to his temple, they say, where is the fun, where a holiday? This majority. But those who once tasted a dish called "motorcycle", will never be indifferent to it.
Fun - this is the most accurate description of what gives riding a motorcycle, from the usual trip to the good old "Minsk" on forest and rural dirt roads to multi-day trips on motorways at high tourist "Goldwing". Therefore motorcycle. In this case, Kawasaki KLV positive orange color with three rear wardrobe trunks. On peculiarities of fees on a long journey will talk about later, but for now I will explain why decided to go through Kiev. On the last day it turned out that the garage no engine oil that is needed to bring to refill if necessary. Since in him that day was not, it was decided to buy on the way. By e-mail, representatives of one store, located in the capital of Ukraine, confirmed that such oil they have in stock. The question sort of resolved ...
On the Road! Day 1. Gomel - Kiev - Chisinau
Early Monday morning, July 7. Departure from Gomel in the direction of Chernigov. The weather is perfect, the mood too. The first thing that is unusual - the border crossing "Novaya Guta". Prior to the start of the conflict in Ukraine at the weekend on the border of machines was so much that had to stand for several hours. Because of the turbulent situation in the neighboring country on the border line decreased significantly. 20 minutes - the border is passed. Direction - to Kiev for oil. Performs the role of navigator smartphone with GPS and maps Navitel, mounted on the handlebar holder.
Kiev - a beautiful city with lots of bridges and not very informative pointers before the intersection. Wrong with turning the congress from the bridge - start searching for the right path. Navigator from the heat for 30 retarding and gives way after passing a turn. Get into the plug associated with the repair of roads. To get to the aisle there is no possibility. H in barely moving traffic. In motoekipirovke at two o'clock at the same temperature, standing almost on the spot ... Motorcyclists will understand me. Finally coming to the store. Oil is. But not what you need. Sellers casually read the letter. After two hours of torture heat in Kiev with ideas about where to look for oil, food further in the direction of Odessa.
The mood is not the same. 120 kilometers after Uman turn right off the track on the road E95 M13. Plain abruptly replaced by rolling hills, under the wheels - asphalt concrete pavement. This is something. 110 kilometers hideous road to the border with Moldova. During this journey I have met only a few dozen machines. While driving along the tarmac, do not let the thought: how on her ride in cars? Following folk wisdom "more speed - less holes" went 90-100. Several times on the rough road suspension squander to contact the central steps and coatings. And it turenduro! Scary to think that in these places would occur with cars with not the biggest clearance. It seems that those who once traveled this road, the second time on their own will not go here.
The sun began to fall apart when I drove up to the border. Except for one truck was empty. I asked the driver of the wagon time overcoming them this section length of 110 km was the answer "two and a half hours," with a smile on his face.
10 minutes on the border - and I in Moldova. To Chisinau hand. Entering the Moldovan capital and dream faster wash and fall into bed. It seems that this time is near. But I was wrong. The hotel was quite cleverly located. I suspected something was wrong, driving the third time near the same place. Unsuccessfully ride around the city to find the right address for 40 minutes until it turned to the taxi driver. At the entrance to the hotel was so tired, what about the shower was not thinking ...
Prior to entering into the yard at the edge of my eye I notice that something was wrong in the area of the rear wheel. On the road to unscrew one of the two bolts securing the plastic shield chain guard drew one end of the chain is then on the asphalt. Later, analyzing the photos, I realized that it lasted at least 200 km. At that moment, the mood has fallen completely. The first day of the trip, and already the failure in finding oil and breakage, although insignificant. Check passed quickly, the number of paid in cash dollars. Excellent one-bedroom apartment four-bed room with all the creature comforts for $ 36. Going to my room, I saw that did not expect to find in a small budget hotel in Moldova - pool. Yes, a little, but the pool. What a bliss after a day out in the outfit in the heat for 30, after 800 kilometers, to plunge into the cool water ... The mood improved slightly. The rise planned for early elimination of minor faults.
Day 2. Chisinau - Romania (Brasov)
Morning, at 6.30 hours, the bolts need to guard ... What surprised - as early as eight o'clock in the morning, a third of the local market works. A lot of parts for "Lada", all sorts of melochovki. The assortment of b / Parts evident that the country is faring poorly in Belarus. And it is the capital. Bolts of different sizes find it in one of the boxes. All bolts and nuts - b / y, cranked from dismantled vehicles. Seller - retired, speaks perfect in Russian. We talked for life. It is best to know the country, talking to ordinary people:
- Moldova living in extreme poverty. Pensions in some people less than 20 dollars. To exist, it is necessary to something to do. Although all life example, I worked for did not the last person in the production of ...
And though the old man's voice heard in notes of sadness, he does not complain, optimistic about the future. According to him, the Union lived much better. Unflattering reviews of the country's leaders in the field. Separated quite warm. It's nice to talk to a good man. Wishing good luck, went to the hotel to fasten guard, because there is still a long way to go. To the border with Romania reached fairly quickly. If not chadyaschie KAMAZ, slowly crawling on the rise, and a string of cars to overtake on the two-strip that is not so easy, it would be faster. The farther away from Chisinau, the becomes free. 10 minutes for documents - and I am in Romania.
Prior to that, all associations with the country amounted to Ceausescu and Roma. In reality - the road with good coverage, although more often two-way, filling civilized, friendly people, beautiful scenery. The road meanders and winding passes through pretty villages. The average speed is quite low, given the large number of villages and streamers. However, it is not annoying and does not interfere with having fun on the road and opened landscapes.
The farther inland Romania, the greater the differences in elevation, the hills begin to turn into mountains. Not immediately, but I notice that something has changed. Lost in thought, we find that the food in the shade. Until now, all the way from Gomel took place mainly among the fields and meadows. A couple of days so accustomed to constant bright sun and heat, he stopped to notice them. And here suddenly a shadow. Forested mountains, tall trees, the slope above the road and forming an almost complete shadow, streamers ... Yes, I'm already in Transylvania! Immediately reminded of footage from action movies, where medieval Transylvania night rushing carriage, drawn by four horses, and behind it overtakes a pack of wolves ... Car little road is almost empty. A pleasure to drive. In such circumstances, we reach Brasov - another place to sleep.
Brasov - pretty town's historic center. Earlier worth visiting questionable "Dracula's Castle" in Bran, near Brasov, canceled against the backdrop of the evening accumulated fatigue.
Day 3. Romania (Brasov) - Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo)
This day was to visit one of the main attractions of the trip - Transfăgărăşan. Therefore, the early rise, a cursory examination of the center of Brasov light, return to the hotel charges.
In the direction from north to south I had to cross the Carpathians to Transfegerashkomu highway. Description it can be easily found on the Internet, so go into the history and reviews of tourists it will not. The most important thing - it is really worth to drive. So plan a visit to Romania in the summer (it is in the summer months this road open to the public). Even if you have little to stay in Romania and to deviate from the main route. And it is desirable to take the time and have fun.
Quality coverage. Turns. Turns. Serpentines. Mountains. Magnificent landscapes. Fresh air. That's where it is necessary to go to a sports car or a motorcycle. Adrenaline rush provided to you. Acceleration - deceleration - turn - acceleration - deceleration - turn ... And so for tens of kilometers. Within a few hours, I met a dozen motorcyclists 3-4, about a dozen cyclists, several hikers. And everyone is happy.
Barely short of gasoline on the remains to the first scenic road after filling, pour a full tank and merge onto the highway Piteshi - Bucharest. I hasten to the border with Bulgaria, because to Veliko Turnovo still decent ride. At the border saw the booth with a barrier, which only check to pay for expensive - the presence of the vignettes. Since motorcycles are exempt from this fee, lift the gate and waving his hand to driving. Expect that the passport control will be somewhere ahead. However, entering the bridge over the Danube and I understand that is already on the territory of Bulgaria. It turns out that everything is normal, in Romania on the road only check vignettes. Some simple transport controls between Romania and Bulgaria.
The sun was setting. Air freshened. After leaving Russa clearly felt scent of meadow grasses. The road is good, little machines. Dawn arrived in Veliko Tarnovo, so sightseeing was postponed for tomorrow.
Day 4. Bulgaria (Veliko Turnovo)
Finally a day of rest ... Walking around the city, visit Tsarevets fortress. From this day begins planning the next free nights and places visited places. And the first confirmation that it is not necessary to book hotels for the duration of the trip. Another house planned after Veliko Tarnovo go directly to Istanbul. However, on the 4th day I thought that so many miles behind, a trip around the Black Sea and the sea, and I have not seen. In the evening of the same day it was decided to go to Burgas, there bathe, sleep and then have to Istanbul. That evening, booked the hotel the next night at the resort Pomorie, next to Burgas. The cost of hotels on the coast of Bulgaria above, although there can be found suitable for the price options.
Day 5. Bulgaria (Veliko Tarnovo - Bourgas)
Breakfast, fees, departure. Planned by the shortest route to go on the motorway Sofia - Burgas, further on it to Bourgas. 20 kilometers after Veliko Tarnovo on the road - a sign "No Entry" ("brick") and the direction of a detour to the right after some town. Navigator shows stubbornly straight. Several local cars drove right under the sign. Food for them. 10 kilometers through police car, all stopped. Asked where I was going. Deployed and sent back and a detour. Detour was to follow for a very different road passing through Gabrovo. Pass after Gabrovo reminded that in Bulgaria there are mountains.
It began to rain. He soon turned into a downpour. Plus strong wind. In Pomorie arrived at six o'clock in the evening. Beach meters located 200 meters from the hotel. After the rain almost no one was, and the sea was not so. Decided that in the morning I will visit one of the water parks, located in Sunny Beach, and then go to Istanbul. Book a room in Istanbul for 2 days. It was decided to allocate one full day to explore the city.
Day 6. Bulgaria (Bourgas) - Turkey (Istanbul)
Morning walk on the beach. Is quite another matter - a clean, calm sea. This is the Bulgarian coast, which come to rest. Although almost equal prices for air tours to Egypt and Bulgaria, I would choose the first one. After all, as the Red Sea bathing is much nicer. Naplavatsya, packs - and in a way. On the border with Turkey almost no cars. Quickly pass Bulgarian passport control and drove up to the Turkish. However, not once. Define the move, where to find staff, very difficult. Not seeing anyone along the way, buried in the barrier away from the checkpoint. Me did the same Caravanners from Slovenia. Looked at each other, turned around, went to look for the post of paperwork. He found himself in a detached house, where are processed and entering and leaving. 15 minutes on the design - Turkey has met the bright sun.
What good is the road ... On several lanes in each direction, perfect finish, smooth curves with large radii ... struck Turkey in terms of roads - the best on the route! As the highest gasoline prices. Fill the tank with 20 liters and give almost $ 50, to put it mildly, a bit unusual. To Istanbul reached the same breath. For 50-70 kilometers from the city traffic has become very dense. However, at the flow rate is not much affected. Movement around the city is very intense.
Metropolis. When you enter the city, began to get dark. Search hotel spent an hour because a little lost and was on the main pedestrian tourist Istiklal Street, close to the bottom thereof. Stopped and frantically pondering what to do. I was approached by a guy with a girl, local, and asked in English, not if I need help. Maybe I want to eat, drink, etc. And I would find a hotel does not prevent. Podsobit guys, I thank them very much. Approximately explained how and where to go.
The day started with the fact that I decided to extend my stay in Istanbul. Read about the number of attractions and realized that for all three days is not inspect. It was therefore decided to stay for at least two full days. Extended stay another day and went on foot to see the surroundings. The city is beautiful. Few high-rise buildings, old streets. Affects a large number of yellow taxi cars in the center - about 40 percent of the flow. And a lot of scooters. Walked a bit, decided to continue sightseeing on a motorcycle.