Author - kot_begemott
53 photos. This is the first part of the trip.
About five years I suffered with his own eyes the desire to see Belarus. The first time he realized at the beginning of December last year. However, the circumstances of the trip were such that most of the time was occupied by quite different. Not quite Belarus)) And the photos, unfortunately, did quite a bit.
The first impression.
Well, what to say? All observations of other travelers about sharp contrast to the Belarusian rural landscape on either side of the road and completely abandoned domestic fields were completely true. A few hundred meters after the customs caught several men clearly rural species. One was carrying some tools (think a rake or fork), another rolled the bike. They are somewhere busily went, and it was immediately clear - people are busy. On the working tractor. Everywhere was very lively. So I decided to start filming right now.
Belarusian road really great. Note: Despite the fact that the former markings did not erased, it renews.
Belarusian at work. It makes all Belarusian faithfully and accurately. We would be hired for the job Tajik, half the amount paid to him under the sheet, and the second half of employers have put in his pocket.
It was the first time I met Belarus not only with sound "speed bumps" (special road surface which hums under the wheels, in the winter I was thinking - something happened with the suspension), but with a sound boundary line around the edges of the track. Suffice it to step up the line, and is distributed under the wheels Humming softly. The faster you go, the more buzzing. This line looks like this:
Every few kilometers on the highway emergency telephones installed:
I do not know what's in there, I did not look.
Posted in [mergetime] 1296390244 [/ mergetime]
More feature of Belarusian roads is a constant repetition of speed limit signs. Every few kilometers hanging "90", then again "90", "90", "90" ... So do not forget how fast you need to go. At times even he tormented conscience that a meal with almost twofold excess ... For comparison - in our Minsk highway limit signs almost never occur. On the way back I do not remember any.
The quality of Belarusian roads - is beyond praise: smooth as a mirror, no patches and cracks, with a brand new cover, with a clear separation of opposing streams of neat (and even, it seems, tonsure) gazonchik. Steering-wheel, you can hold two fingers, and this despite the fact that my car steering wheel too informative: the slightest bump, and it wobbles in the hands. Here's a little video, shot at a speed of 200 km / h:
Interestingly, most of the crossings are made under the highway underground. They look like this:
Even has a special roof to prevent water numb. If the shift ground, then it is always marked by special luminous icon in the form of walking man. Well, the sound "speed bumps" that are becoming more frequent as you approach a pedestrian crossing. I was told that in Belarus the punishment for nepropusk pedestrians - quite strict. As well as speeding (with which I quickly ran
Note: stop (on which I stood, removing) neatly paved with paving slabs. By an underpass leads asphalt track. Sama stop - graceful openwork structure, resembles similar in Moscow. And it is ten kilometers away from Minsk! The only naselёnnny point nearby - a small village. It is for its people cheered the move.
In general, Belarus can not help feeling - here care about ordinary people. I do not know the whole of Russia, and in Moscow constantly feel: everything is created, constructed, arranged for the rich and noble. If you have no money (influence, power) - you're nobody. We have the rights of the one who has more rights: the motorist in front of pedestrians, police officer - to motorists, the official - before the police ...
All the time stay in Belarus racked my brain: from Old Man scored less money to repair roads in good faith? It is not only the main routes, but even the local roads is very high quality. And the same everywhere - recurring limit signs, pedestrian crossings carefully furnished, neat fence, well located pointers. When did he?
It was possible to hear the opinion that Lukashenko - is not as simple as it seems. They say that all his selhozuspehi - pure window dressing, Potemkin village. In particular, Belarus is treated only those fields that are located along the major routes, in order to throw dust in the eyes, and in the depths of one continuous reigns poverty and desolation. I decided to check it out. After driving about 100 km from the border, turned into the first available local road. The village was Zabalatstse 2 kilometers.
The first thing that caught my eye - constantly passing by tractor feed. We went very often, literally every few minutes. First I was still overtaken and stopped, turned on emergency gang, got to shoot. Pass tractor looked Moscow dude goggles. As it turned out, they just go with the hay:
By the way, a rural road was also quite decent quality.
More such facilities across here:
Local residents reported that this store fertilizers, now abandoned.
Then went very very rural road, too, it is good quality - all the irregularities were sprinkled with sand. Without thinking twice, I turned left at the first available village street. Some of these luxury pigs could not not stop)
He came up close to the fence and started to shoot. And when more metropolitan see of these pigs? Live)) in a life-size))
Then I called out one of the local residents, "And like, I'll show you my chickens?" - To which gladly accepted. Here they are, broilers, together with their mistress (did not want to be photographed, saying that today looks bad
There was something incredible. Do you know what true hospitality? That's right, with a capital letter? I thought - I know; it appeared that no. Come to the Belarusian village - and you also know. This is something incredible, indescribable, inexpressible in words. We poured all the nearest neighbors. The guests invited to absolutely everything. "And yet that's my utyatok, please remove." He took off. Excellent ducklings, by the way. Duck so generally irresistible:
What caused these incredible words of kindness and hospitality? It was a typical Belarusian character? Or played a role my parade outfit (still went to his girlfriend - a good summer shoes, white shirt, tie newcomer from Cardin? Hardly took me for some bosses - the car-it was numbered Moscow.
Anyway, he went for the first invite. Her good treatment, same voice, I seem to be paralyzed. I have already noted that the Belarusian women's voice has some special feminine intonation, which rarely heard in our area. There generally is constantly drawing comparisons Belarusian women and Muscovites. If there is an inspiration, then I will add and lay out.
First of all, Nina A. showed his garden, explaining in detail where she planted that:
On a bench near the entrance was a real furnace pot, it was impossible not to remove:
He remembered aloud that to put the pot in the oven, you need a catch. I never held in the hands of the catch. The hostess immediately went specifically to the barn to bring him:
Then led into the house. In the vestibule stood a large bowl with freshly picked strawberries. Nina A. offered to try - was surprisingly tasty strawberries; Moscow, though the market, and some were not. Sweet, juicy, it just melted in the mouth. When I praised, the owner immediately brought out of the closet a quart jar and fill the soul I start with him. Sluggish resisted, not knowing how to thank (just never occurred that the car was a bag of the most delicious sweets in Moscow. Devil distraction. What will they think of people in Moscow and Moscow? - Strawberries picked and left).
Generally no idea how to respond to all this: never anything like never met - in the first text a lot enlarge on the fact that he was born and raised in a city where man is, in the end, the wolf. Moscow accepted (though not always consciously) to hate each other and take any person as an obstacle for their own peace of mind. Individualism above all else ...
The Bank has been filled up to the top. About yourself have realized who'll take the strawberries as a gift))) Ales then thoroughly bruised and mixed it with sugar and sour cream - turned out incredibly delicious. And I thought since childhood that strawberries are best eaten with cream). But on the Belarusian cuisine then I will write more in the second part.
Mistress allowed to photograph the pantry:
This house was built by her grandparents in the early 40s. She herself retired (pension 6000 rubles for our money), winter living in Orsha. Summer is coming to engage in vegetable garden. Part of the harvest gives two of his (unmarried) daughters. This year bought 60 chickens.
Immediately I asked if I married? He responded that Belarus I have a bride, to which, in fact, was on his way. "It is a pity, - said the good woman - and then I would be sure you zhenila. Both daughters have not met their human and older have 39. You probably wealthy. Look at what the car came ... "I reported that work on minor positions in the Russian Army, and generally never wealthy. Nina A. tossed an ironic look at the tie - and I had to shut up))
More all the time asking if I am not a spy FSB)) first tried to explain something, but then resigned, and began joking with me: yes, they say, it's true. Russian spies are always cars parked on the street and start shooting the local pigs)) Work for us this)))
He told me, why the interest in the life of Belarus. I ask about Lukashenko. Again I was told that "all ordinary people for him, because he does not give to ravage the country, both in Russia will not allow here the Russian oligarchs, so they bought all of our businesses, and against him only some obscure individual personality in Minsk. "The same point of view, I had already heard in winter, from an elderly employee of the Belarusian insurance company. Oddly enough, but Nina A. outlined in principle correct interpretation of the last gas crisis.
More from me I demanded that I "wrote about their village and all good things about Belarus." I do not know how much was good. He gave her the address of the LJ)) They are there in the village someone is the Internet, can read ...
House was a terrific smell just istoplennoy oven. At home, my grandmother (she was resting in the summer) the smell was exactly the same. And I had forgotten. A real Russian stove with stove bench. He has never seen:
Nina A. usually prepares a small gas stove in the hallway. Gas purchases in large cylinders, just recently bought a new one. Firewood bought - as I understand it, the machine firewood costs about 3,000 Russian rubles. With wood (feed, fertilizers), as well as their delivery, and Belarus is no problem. But one machine firewood for the winter is usually not enough. Nina A. pretty much told me about his life and times.
And that - communicating room:
House Nina Anatolevny very clean. But she was not prepared for my arrival))
The hostess immediately sat me down at the table and began to regale this cow's milk, which takes one of the neighbors. Milk was amazingly delicious.
Wells in areas not, the water taken from such columns:
The neighbor's land and Belarusian landscape:
As you can see, all the fields are processed. They are cultivated there at all useful area of one hectare or nothing is not lost.
Going on the road - everywhere, everywhere planted fields, mown meadows, seen some machines here and there ... and people are working on their figures, by facial expressions, at the gait can not say that they see themselves as losers who failed to dig in the capital, to acquire the essential material goods, and therefore is now permanently drink too much. It preserve self-esteem. The impression is very strong. This is called - "master of the house." Although the youth of the villages still aspires to the city ...
Then Nina A. took to the local school. Evaluate what a beautiful fence:
And Belarusians all those things that make the soul, I have not had a chance to make again. Here it is - a reasonable, good and eternal, all in one place.
Immediately, not far from the entrance, has attracted the attention of such a composition:
Of course, could not help but notice the cat scientist himself))
To the left is another:
And a little further:
As I understand from the story of Nina Anatolevny, all this - the enthusiasm of local teachers for work.
Including beds here are in the style of English landscape design:
Generally, the yard looks fun, elegant and well-groomed. Look, how lovely:
The school attended by children from several surrounding villages. Their brings and takes a special bus. Nutrition students - free of charge. Is your small garden land. Students there to help in every way. That is - a cellar for storage of vegetables:
I would like to draw readers' attention that the cellar - newly built: the board did not have time to darken, and the earth (excavated) - a fairly recent.
A characteristic feature of the Belarusian province - there is no feeling of complete desolation. Everywhere something is newly built. Without a doubt, there is also, as in the Christian world, gradually withers rural way, but it happens not so intense, such as in Russia, where passed 15-20 years, you see, and have not already villages.
School sports ground:
Here, the most important thing forgot to show:
(Zabolotskaya Secondary School Tolochin district, Vitebsk region - written for search engines
The hostess told us that is near a large cattle-breeding complex. I am saying goodbye to her, and decided to go. Approaching the car, was taken aback: the Belarusian friendliness, genuine hospitality of the local people are so melted my heart that goes into the house, I forgot to pick up the driver's window. In the car were in the front seat - quite a large aluminum beauty cases (such in the movies usually show) Discs And Drives not anyhow be necessary, but pricey Japanese, gathered a collection of a few years (took a listen to on the way); wallet with money and all credit cards; kommuniktor Nokia 9500 leather case. And in it, respectively - all the sketches to the texts, which have not finished writing, correspondence, telephones, a huge database ... All this lay in front of an open window)) on the back seat - bag packed full of treats, and a large holdall «Samsonite» with spare clothes (traveling for a few days). And on the back of the rack Italian silk jacket hanging))) Needless to say what would have happened, so leave the car in Moscow? Needless to say that here in the village, nothing is missing? - And in fact we walked along the street passers-by, the boys ran ... While being away (about an hour), the car and stood with the window open. And I forgot. Actually he remembered that he had left the window open. It seems, and signalization not included)) This is the way how mind-blowing from the Belarusian hospitality.
Before the economy was no more than 4 kilometers. The road was good, drove very fast. More cows got already halfway:
Again tractor feed:
Horse at the house of one of the locals:
Cute houses belong to the working farm:
It was amazing to see horse-drawn carts. In general, the theme of horses constantly haunted me in Belarus. They've got all the horses there. That state farm horse she met and somewhere stamped:
Park your car in the yard with agricultural machinery, I went and asked permission to shoot at the workers. The workers themselves are seen in the first photo on the left, they repaired some tractor. By the way, every one were sober:
All the equipment - it was immediately obvious - in working order, even well-groomed, there was exactly one line. The skeleton of an old rusty equipment was nowhere in sight. By the way, Nina A. proudly told that Lukashenko ordered Belarusian manufacturers to develop and produce its own model of the combine - which was successfully done.
Tractor Belarus manufacture:
Untitled. Speaking about the relations of people for itself. Often found in the Russian state farms such beds? Often meet Russian state farms?
There are two barn, warm (winter) and summer. First warm:
As you can see, quite clean hallway, walked down the hall in the summer parade shoes.