Moscow-Yakutsk-Moscow on the tractor MAZ-5440A9

Good all the time of day! I did not expect that my story about a trip to Sakhalin cause such interest readers! He was surprised by the number of views and comments. Report on Sakhalin was published on May 20. At that time, I was traveling from Moscow toward Yakutsk was in Omsk. Encouraged interest in such long-range subjects decided to continue this topic! So, all in order.





Arriving from Sakhalin and sleep off properly, he proceeded to a full audit of its track. The tractor went to the dealer MAZ in Penza and the semitrailer - the neighboring Mokshan to Penza, where is the cargo center for repair and maintenance of equipment. Tractor came time to "more that". Change of oil. Brake system repairs. Replacement lamps and beaten with chains wings and much more in the amount of 55 000 rubles. On the trailer was purchased and replaced with a new wheel in a circle brake pads silent blocks, as well as repair kits brake calipers. Total has run more than 60 000 rubles. Total spending more than 100 000 rubles., Was quite suitable to the further operation of the truck.

After working for holidays in May on a short route from Moscow to Penza Penza and Saratov, Nizhny Tagil, Penza received an offer of shipping 20 tonnes in Yakutsk on May 15 to the price of 500 000 rubles.

Things had accumulated on the road a lot. Penza hot, but who knows what will happen in Yakutia? Stock garments a month for all weather conditions :).

In connection with the ban on the Ring Road exit in the daytime for heavy trucks accounted for trips to Moscow carefully planned time of arrival to the capital. Call and can now only go from 22 to 6 hours, and on weekends - from 00 to 6 hours. Otherwise a fine of 5000 rubles. for each individual videofiksatsiyu your car cameras in the area of ​​prohibition! Late, I did not - your problems! Calculating the time, I came to the place of loading at the Yaroslavl highway about 2 o'clock in the morning and stopped to spend the night in the area, which is rarely in Moscow.

The whole day was May 15 during loading. The purpose of the customer: Ref stuff under a roof. My mission: to prevent overloading in excess of 20 tons, as well as monitor the proper stowage of the axes of the trailer.

After much debate and finally recalculations car was loaded! During the whole day there was no time even to drink tea! After waiting for 22 hours, starting from Moscow! In front of about 8700 kilometers from Yakutsk!

Happy waggons impossible, and nights on the Ring Road repair, so that congestion can not be avoided, even at night! Short of the nearest convenient parking on the bypass Kolomna, got to rest long after midnight.

May 16. Heat hell! While moving through the air blows hot air the reason is clear - the crane cabin heater is defective and constantly open Besides denied turn signals. Ryazan is located on the bypass MAZ center where I went to correct the damage. Baggage until the evening. Barely I begged them to help. No service, however, as the attitude towards the customer! In such cases, always regret that even with MAZ contacted!

At night, I got to Penza. The good thing I live not far from the highway on the outskirts of the city and it is possible to fit a truck close to home.

May 17 took a battery charging refrigeration unit and went on an expedition. Despite the fact that the left Penza later, was able to get to this day to the North District of the Orenburg region. May 18 morning, refueled in full before Bavly to "ROSNEFTEPRODUKT" where constantly refuel at 24, 5 rubles. and excellent lunch in this Dagestani hinkalom institution my old friend.

In the evening I went to conquer the Urals. Going down to Yuryuzan crackdown and took to the mountain, I noticed that I signaled emergency gang of something passed me passenger car. I stopped and noticed poluspuschennoe wheel trailer. The oldest and the bad wheel on the whole car. Despite the evening, the weather was very hot and messing around on the rise with the wheel did not want to. I turned and went to look for tire Yuryuzan, but not passed, and a couple of kilometers, saw flying out from under the trailer pieces of rubber. The wheel is not sorry - and the road to it, but to put the spare tire still had to :). I am sweating as it should, but after dark the reserve stood still. I touched on the night hoping to take a steam bath at bedtime. In the Urals there was not a single free baths without queuing. I had to wash in the shower in the parking lot after the Chebarkul. They stayed the night.

19 May without incident reached Abatskii. Pass bridge over Ishim recommend night. There because of the constant renovation of the bridge in the afternoon traffic jam.

May 20 afternoon decided to purchase in Omsk a pair of wheels on a trailer, as the left without spare wheel. Couple trailer tires "Dunlop" cost about 43 000 rubles. with the installation, but now I have, and spare tire and an old tire in the reserve just in case. Also in the tire service received SMS confirmation publication on Drom.ru my photo report on the trip to Sakhalin. Many views, a lot of comments. I decided to continue this theme and regretted that for all time from Moscow to Omsk has not made any photo. However, there was nothing much to take! May 21, left this morning from the parking lot near tubs twist on the Novosibirsk region. To pass the day very much and was able to spend the night I was for the Mariinsky.

May 22 in rainy and cool morning started having problems with air suspension. Bellows began spontaneously deflate. Raise them in the transport position was only possible with the remote, and after a full stop. Enough air for a maximum of five minutes, so I was forced to Achinsk stayed countless times. Achinsk drove into service where eliminate air leakage from one of the connecting plastic tubing, but the cause of failure and did not find out. Cushions continued to periodically sit down, but now not so much.



Achinsk diesel to 27 rubles. Refuel the full! And not only diesel :).
My answer to Chamberlain! Earlier in the evening it was possible to buy a bottle of cold beer, easy to drink it and go to sleep. Now, as I understand it, the stores do not sell beer in the evening. I already took out the State Duma (fool :)) with its lawmaking! I do not want to, I drank a bottle of beer in peace? So I now his advance purchase a box!



May 23 has left the parking lot in front of Cannes. Roads in the city will not, it seems, never! However, as it will never finish building plot on the edge of the Krasnoyarsk Territory and the Irkutsk Region!



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Cafe-parking "Pyotr." Small working with wiring and adding oil to the engine.



In the photo the forest fires in the Irkutsk region.



Before reaching Sheberty extended section of crushed stone surface. In dry weather, dusty.



By nightfall Tulun drove and parked at night next to the cafe.

May 24 woke up early in the hope that will be able to get to the night to Ulan-Ude. Started distribution area Buryat cuisine. Almost all of roadside establishments have a wonderful fresh tasty food (postures, Buchler, etc.). Usolye Siberian no bypass road. All transit traffic is moving through the city.



Before the Irkutsk to Chita road goes into the mountains. Dramatically changing the picture outside. From the summer once you get in the spring. The zone of influence of atmospheric Baikal. The plot of the M-55 from Irkutsk to Kultuk - the most dangerous all the way! MAZ takes some ups only in first gear. In the main slope, overlooking Lake Baikal, it was unable to protect themselves from overheating brakes. Slightly puffed drive axle of the tractor. By the end of the descent from the steep 180-degree turns it was still at least 2 km away, so I decided not to risk it and stopped in a picturesque location at the cafe "Baikal Serpentine" cool brake, drink tea and buy cisco.



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The second part of the descent from Kultuk successful. As a reward, delicious grilled meat in the cafe at the gas station in Kultuk.



A small traffic jam on w / e crossing. On the horizon, the beautiful snow-capped mountains! Beauty incredible! It is a pity that my modest capabilities "Soap" can not convey the fullness of majesty and beauty of the mountains and the lake.



Beauty in the sunset!



Often come across as the trucks and cars on the Mongolian rooms. I wonder what they carry? It is a pity that it was not possible to communicate with the driver.

I spent the night at a cafe near the Kabansky.

May 25 morning drove Ulan-Ude. We started having problems with the air suspension of the tractor. Bellows periodically blown away completely. Plenty of time to stop losing.



Trans-Baikal Nature is very beautiful. Here are some spectacular scenery.



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In the photo a Buddhist shrine on the pass in Buryatia.



Condition of roads in the Trans-Baikal region is poor. The speed of 50 km / h. Many completely wrecked and abandoned areas of road builders.

The next day, May 26 met at one of the roadside cafes near Chita with dalnoboev from Eagle, traveling by "American" and his companion of Peter, who was returning from Sakhalin on a bicycle. Part of the way he has done hitchhiking, and part of its course in the winter!



In Chita drove on the highway "Amur". There is a violation of technology construction of the road. Frequent roadbed subsidence and dangerous jumps. Go here desirable day. Sagging areas visible from afar on the trail braking



Later in the afternoon somewhere Chernyshevsky noticed that the brakes on the slopes are very weak. He stopped to look and saw the following picture!



An impressive sight! Three disc brakes of the trailer were heated inexplicably hot. We had to stand for an hour. The cause was never found. Downhill with a constant braking was not. Not found also braking of the trailer. Brake discs, already old went after cooling cracks. Another additional repairs on arrival home!



The road continues with continued caution and without overloading the braking system, preferring to slow down the engine as possible.



With some difficulty found a place to spend the night. The place is very deaf and uninhabited. Morning of May 27 left Semiozernoe. Full day charged a fine cold rain.



In the afternoon, finally got to the turnoff to Yakutsk, and then started!

The first impression after the turn was that I lost my way. The asphalt ended and turned into a broken-down narrow gravel road. For the first time the whole trip was scary! The rate fell to 5-20 km / h.



Off-road full!



Even the constant round-ups with steep, up to 180 degrees turns. Passing somehow to Soloviev, got on a small section of asphalt pavement. Asphalt comes mainly in the towns, after which almost always ends soon.



In total, by turning off the road to Yakutsk Yakutsk to about 1 150 km, of which paved areas less than 250 km. Emboldened bit and got used to the road, began to gradually increase the speed, accelerating in some places up to 40 km / h. As it turned out later, nothing!



The rock from which the coating consists of the so-called track "Lena", bites the sharp edges in the tire of the car. The higher the speed, the (I thought) more likely to puncture.



It is believed that the wheels of the semitrailer to go down to 8 atm. Thereby reducing the risk of puncture. Before reaching Tynda, who get up, by the way, about 9 o'clock, found podspuschennoe wheel trailer. Tynda truck tire mounting no! Struck by this fact, he went back home on. On the outskirts of Tynda I found that the pillows on the tractor pumped air and explode it not only gives the glasses resting pads rear stabilizer. The reason is not difficult to guess. From constant shaking was damaged or tap the floor level or faulty control valve, or a block. From the constant attacks stabilizer glasses quickly bent and began leaking from under the air. Go down the road, but still on the run-flat pillows tractor seemed impossible!



He spent the night at a roadside inn driving 70 km from Tynda and early in the morning to take me to repair a flat tire and suspension.

Pomanipulirovat with wires, coils and tap the floor, I realized that did not understand and have to go, adjusting air springs from the console every 10 minutes!



On the pass the border with Yakutia discovered another pull-down wheel of the trailer! The reserve has been used. With drooping mood descends wheel deflated air suspension still got to Neryungri! Tire there! I repair the wheel! Sentiment on the broken car to go another 800 km on the road no. To be honest, even I found a truck, ready to tow my trailer to unload and back Neryungri 80 000 rub., But still decided to go on their own.



Weather razvetrilas bit and the sun appeared.



Now there is a new concern - pervasive fine road dust! Dust everywhere! The instrument panel is covered with a thick layer of dust in about 1 hour. Breathe and tickle in the throat.



From Neryungri to Aldan first road winds gradually uphill and then downhill. Often they come across places where the mountains is not yet melted snow.



The photo is another "gift" in the form of a big bolt in the wheel! With one spare wheel there is nothing to do!



By nightfall, the engine on the rise troit and began to choke. Do not understand the reasons, I got the night before reaching 40 km to Aldan.



In the morning I replaced the filter separator, which was completely clogged with rust, trapped in a tank at a local gas stations. Describe all the misadventures of a new day long and tedious. Because of positive emotions - Aldan and lunch in the cafe "Antoshka" with delicious freshly baked bread. The rest is sheer torture on the roads with a malfunctioning machine!



The next day, without spare wheel with a punctured wheel reached the coastal village Kachikattsy, which operates ferry. Originally I planned to go through the Best, but changed his route when he learned that on the opposite bank of the Lena to Yakutsk have asphalt.



They say that in front of the ferry Kachikattsy local feudal lords declared the property of the roads and charge a fare money!



When I called in, there was nobody there.



Ferry is a different-sized private fleet of many small vessels. Quays, as such, was not there! Arrival and departure on the ferry problem. With the owners of ferries can and should haggle. Prices depend on the crossing of the season and at the end of the navigation can be up to 100 000 rubles. round trip! After a brief bidding agreed with the captain at 4500 rubles. for crossing a loaded wagon. When loading the trailer plowed striker coastal strip and safely absorbed. On the opposite side leaving more gentle. The journey takes around 20-30 minutes.



On the opposite bank does have the asphalt to Yakutsk, though in a terrible state.

On unloading the day of arrival I was still late, and so he went straight to the tire repair wheels.

Pass all from Moscow about 8600 km in 15 days.

A distinctive feature of the local Yakut tire changer case: anywhere at any price is not removed and not put the wheel!



It was necessary to repair the car in Yakutsk, but the service of MAZ and generally no cargo service I have not found!

This, in my opinion, is very important information for those who are accustomed to be served and to pay for repairs. Here you do not need anybody with money, or with a lot of money. If you are going to Yakutia, to rely only on themselves!

Fuel on the track "Lena" is 37-38 rubles. / Liter. Consumption on the site Nevers-Yakutsk about 60 liters per 100 km! Off-road! Five-time wear of the car! Consider all this in the calculation of the cost of transportation! Particular attention carriers western regions should be paid to the fact that in the period from September to May to go here on an unprepared single-bridge technique deadly!

Cargo delivered intact. Mission accomplished. Since the search for technical assistance in Yakutsk is not possible, I decided to lose no time to run for the return journey. Around the middle of the way from Yakutsk to the ferry right in the direction of motion is located is such a reconstruction of the ethnic populations.



On the ferry inexperience decided to try to stop by the small ferry



Barely got back to shore!



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On the banks of the Lena scattered everywhere has not thawed since the winter ice.



The blow they disintegrate into elongated crystals.



Waiting for the big ferry to communicate with local drivers, find out for yourself a lot of interesting features of northern life.



The first day of summer, started with the fact that I'm stuck right on the lane federal highway "Lena". Last night the rain and overt sabotage road builders have done their job.



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Local KAMAZ tried to get around me,



but also got into the track a little further away.



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Dirt gray plain.



Dirt red, ordinary.



After overcoming the red swamp.



The machine rather tired.









































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