Expedition indigo.

My good comrades recently returned from a very, in my opinion. interesting journey, I want to share with you their story. Further, in the first person.

Not so long ago I had a chance to take an active part in the wonderful project that took place very quietly and not noticeable to the world jeepers! The expedition was pioneering. Special posters were not, because they do not want to inflate the "pump" - screw up the chances were very high, and do it with a special "fanfare" in general, there was no desire.

43 photos.





Once, in late November, my friend Eugene Shatalov accidentally let slip that there is an interesting topic for the trip, namely: a ride on the ground briefly herders from Arkhangelsk to Naryan-Mar. What kind of Naryan-Mar? HZ ... Zaguglil- fine so far, even on the map, almost due north of Chelyabinsk, just a little to the left of the azimuth. Long or short, shorter, and I was going.
The purpose of the trip was formed "widely known in narrow circles" motoring journalists, bloggers, avtoputeshestvennika Alexei Mochalov that in the past, in 2013, dropped by Naryan-Mar 90. Defender your car broke down he was there in his engine. Friends do not quit, you have to help out, but that's only on public roads, but on a regular winter road to Naryan-Mar to go uninteresting. This is, in fact, the purpose of №1. A goal №2 - it pass so that was interesting for yourself. Looking at the globe, Alex offered to do it this way: we reach Mezen Arkhangelsk regions- edge geography, which are at least some of the road, and then - to the tundra and direction, focusing on the snowmobile, all-terrain, deer tracks, to reach the ultimate goal . What are the traces of Mezenov, whether they are there at all - no one knew it was to be found only on the spot.
Cars and participants. UAZ Patriot Pickup in full standard wheels 33`` BF Goodrich, studded spike truck and winch 9500 T-Max, it - I and Eugene Shatalov. Ford Ranger pick-up as well in the full run-off to winter tires Michelin in it - Lesch Motchalov.
From Chelyabinsk we Zhenya left on the night of 1 to 2 January, that celebrated the New Year on apartments in anticipation of the launch. In a way moved by car UAZ Patriot Pickup, which has less than six months ago, visited Tibet and belongs, of course, his wife - the permanent prodvizhentsev this brand in our area. Took with them all the essentials that can be useful only in passing off the route; all handy, something lost in the tundra. In preparation were not forgotten such details as: samogrevy Foot-hand masks balaclavas, ski goggles, good suits, overalls, were purchased gas burners JETBOIL, for strahovki- gasoline burner Kovea, set of batteries for all sorts of gadgets. Particularly important instrument in this voyage - a satellite phone. Zhenya was available - TURAYA. Contrary to popular belief that TURAYA phones work only in the middle and southern latitudes, it worked almost everywhere and in the Far North, the antenna directed to the south and say a stable relationship. In addition to this with us on the trip was a wonderful instrument for monitoring inReach, thanks to which our friends and family were able to watch us on-line through the site. Strongly recommend taking a trip to such a thing, you can take a rental. Through a program that is installed on a computer, tablet, smart phone, you can send and receive a certain number of SMS. Very comfortable and certainly handy in the way. Were also taken Sand tracks, a handful of Shaklee, a couple of blocks, pieces 5 lines of 20 meters and snow chains. Just took three bags of firewood stove type TERMOFOR tent MAVERIK and three-layer tent. Needless to say, that in addition to this everyone understands that it is necessary to take those individual things that will help warm up and survive in the vast tundra and cruel, and she said to the guests is not very affable.
To Arkhangelsk arrived without incident, stopping intermediate in Kirov, where we were met and placed in a good hotel A remarkable man-seater dzhiper Lesch Schastlivtsev. In Arkhangelsk arrived on January 4, where he met with the head of our project Alexey Mochalov. At the meeting, it was found that arrived at the remarkable mileage Commander was not: equipment and inventory, which was decided in advance to take, without money, without a spare wheel, food, gas cylinders and whatnot "no." Met at the hotel and heard the whole story, I was a little taken aback, did not believe that a man with such status in the world autotravel could so put it mildly, frivolous approach to this trip. Especially when he said at breakfast that if it were not for his wife's message that we are already on the way to Archangel, it is still a question whether he would have gone on this journey. I thought it would be fun, but do not even imagined how much. But do not turn Well it was back. Day in Arkhangelsk killed on the purchase order that was not enough, zatarilis products and 6th went to Mezen.



Mezen - land roads, town three thousand inhabitants, which has an airport for small aircraft, a port on the river of the same name. In the summer, on the outskirts of this village is on duty ferry transporting vehicles from one river bank to the other, while in winter the movement established by a winter crossing.
For the first time in my meager experience, I moved a decent distance on ice crossing from coast to coast - about two kilometers, and even at night. Remembered all reread guidelines for proper passage of ice crossings: the window opened, unfastened seatbelts, speed keep medium-low constant ... go, listen as the wheels sadly crackling ice, stuffed in the pockets of the most valuable things, not to prosohatit in the case of an emergency evacuation.



And then right in the middle of us meets awesome size wet myasha about fifty meters in diameter. What do you think, what thoughts go unenlightened man in those moments when ever known is known only that the specified depth of the river at this point is equal to ten meters? Mdaa ... It turned out, however, it's much easier. On the big rivers ice does not freeze completely to the bottom, sometimes it cracks, and through these cracks, which are generally not big, the water acts. In short, the further out on the ice for us was an ordinary thing, and "bzdo" before the ice on which I used to even walk out potruhival, disappeared completely. And, so to say, to the information, - the thickness of ice in 20 cm technique withstands up to 8 tonnes. It seems so. Personally, I do not recommend anyone to check. In Mezen spent the night in a guest house prices in an excellent hotel in Arkhangelsk, Zhenya and Lesha visited the Christmas service, gathered in the morning and left. Left in search of car service. Steering tips at UAZ, as new only about three thousand miles ago, dangling like ... I will not say that. During holidays, find a working studio was not easy, but everything turned out all changed and go! Not the first time found the exit from the village, but this task we gave in, and we went to a real winter road full of snowmobiles to condition Excellent grader.



Machines kept beautifully, did not break, but the slightest wrong move the wheel and attempt to leave the comfort zone led to the sinking alien vehicles here in the bottomless tundra. Vented wheel and drove to edinichki. The goal - the village Nes. Along the way met the forest peg, referred to by locals Koz'min copse. They say there was once shot someone, but who and when - no one remembers. Even local history. The location is significant in that it tundra spirits live, which is very capricious and do not like, when passing by the travelers do not leave them gifts. Such boors they punish their own way. How exactly - I do not know. But as far as the eye could see, all the trees were decorated with all that no hitting, people leave anything, just to appease the spirits: batteries, cigarettes, money, toys, mittens, piston parts. I understand that the spirits of all amiss, and they are not very picky, and some - take it all. Household cho. So we left, who paved the money, who then. I personally presented the batteries spirits. The main thing is not the soul of the curve and the load with presents from the heart, or settle on a gift does not pass, and any wiles happen. Campaign, one of the three of us a little slukavil because literally within 300 km we were attacked by all sorts of trouble, with whom we fought heroically, were cut. Although ... everything and everyone won, in the end. But more on that later. There is already thought came belated now, maybe the batteries were run down.



Fair Enough. At night, more precisely, about 22 hours seemed hospitable lights in the night tundra - Nes! The first point in this roadless path segment. On the approaches to the village barsovka - snowmobile trail, fled in all directions, apparently snegohodchiki use their own ways to cross a small strip of bush and river behind it, on the other side and that is the village. Long did not stray, dived into the first hole and roaring engines on ponizhaykoy broke in the rise of the river directly to homes. Yay! The first victory, first impressions matter what tundra what snowmobile trail and on it has to go, what perfume and their relation to the batteries! Short- krutyak, finally: ehali- went there and came. Immediately met wonderful people - family Ldokova couple who were walking with the kids in a sled, returning from their parents. Genuinely surprised that we're there in their cars, to our question "where to spend the night here," simply said "we." Head of the family - Maxim - 38 years, kind and sympathetic person other than the owner, is spinning on four works to ensure a decent life of his family. Radio amateur. I was struck by his story of how his hobby saved the child's life. This is even written in the press, but to seek and to stir up the archives, we did not. Do not lie to, the year that way in 2009, when such an achievement of mankind, as the phone was not yet known in Nes, the little malchika- local resident, suffered an appendicitis. No surgery, no transport, telephone, as he said, there is none. A boy and appendicitis. The case seams. Max, for good luck, for the first available radio calls of the same radio amateur and requests that call to Archangel in the MOE to ask for help. He calls the MOE, they arrive at the AN-2, take the boy to Arkhangelsk and there do the operation, the boy saved! Class! Attention here - the guy on the radio amateur-end radio lived in Belarus. So much for the Telegraph. This is how two people saved this indifferent lifetime. I very much getting through this short story. Dinner of reindeer heart, delicious homemade bread under a hundred grams and sincere conversations, from Maxim got tracks for navigator recommendations route. Sleep. These wonderful people we spent the night, and the next day under the magnificent manta rays for dinner we said goodbye and moved to the next point - the village. Lower Pёsha.
A small historical reference. Nes- the third largest settlement in the Nenets Autonomous District, in size and population is second only to Naryan-Maru and the village. Red. According to the last census - residents 1450-1500 (exact data on the memory is not known), in fact, with herders who wander constantly somewhere in the area - about 1,700 people. The village is located 5 km north of the Arctic Circle. The village has a church-second of two available in the NAO. The first stands in Naryan-Mar. By the way, for those who do not know, than the village differs from the village? The presence of the church.



6.



Heat goodbye to Maxim and Elena went. Max led us to withdraw from the village and waved his hand in the darkening tundra - "Pёsha there." There and flooded.



After about 5 km, realized that barsovka droplets have not the same as it was before Nes. Traffic on this site Nes- N.Pёsha was several times lower than Mezen- Nes. Here we vryuhalis the first time as an adult.
First we went to a bunch of Ford Lehi, he interjected. When you try to overtake him tightly stuck to our hospitable tundra UAZ. It was the first lesson: never in the tundra do not go side by side, only one behind the other, clearly in the column. In this scenario, you can pull the rope, to drag winch, lights illuminate even look like mudohaetsya man with a shovel in front of your car, your otkapyvaya, pleasant sitting in the warm interior of the car. Did not know. Two parallel machines vstryavshie two hours of active digging, and of delicious dumplings even burp left. It Is A Pity. But okay, there is a box full of canned food, catch up. Unearth you go. It became clear that the track farther never better not be, is not ready to relax. On the whole, did not go bad, until we reached a good stream. The locals call these springs "rough", the emphasis is on the syllable "oh", which means "cool". Working channel width of about 2 meters, descent and ascent length of 10 meters with a slope of about 35 degrees. The walls of the ascent and descent packed snowmobiles to the mirror, the perfect ice. It was decided to send forward UAZ Pickup. Jack at the wheel, carefully rolled down perfectly stepped on the gas at the outlet, UAZ was ready to jump to the opposite shore, but ... At the exit traction motor categorically not enough, the ice under kolesami- momentary moment and the car stuck in the rear bumper creek bed. Nishtyak. Where to drag? Wheels helplessly polished walls rise, but what's the point. But the almighty god dzhipersky (by the way, can the very spirits of the tundra) planted a on the opposite bank of the stream chip semi-axis! That's the theme! For this half-line "Swan" ATVs for their caterpillar pulling that way. Winch, Shackle, drove off. Rising slope, UAZ crept close to his tracks on the edge of the half-line lifting winch already looked almost vertically downward, thereby making it impossible to continue vinchevanie and rear of the car was still in the valley. Bad. Jack tried to help the wheels to move out of the ambush, and jumped off the winch cable from the axle shaft. For a moment, UAZ (and Eugene inside him) froze and then "rapid jack" collapsed in the rough trickle. Technical thought and human genius on triumphed. Pulling Zhenyu as well on the winch to the critical situation, we Lesha missed winch cable under the bottom of the machine hitch hitched block polispas, passed through a wire, and prokinul it back to "muzzle", catching the hem. So UAZ himself pulled back for.



All anything, but here Oise, probably from stress, such as the engine and banged razbortirovalos rear left wheel. The engine stalled, the frost was intense, the wind was blowing. A cursory inspection of the engine compartment made it clear that the belt broke into the trash. Was new. Replacing the belt took about three hours! At first, an error occurred that was considered that the two drive belts are the same, and I tried unsuccessfully to pull nenatyanuemoe. Then wondered how to install it correctly. Anyway, the usual garage operation, which takes an hour or work under the beer, in these conditions takes time many times more. Night, the wind-reptile, snow pellets, which lupila everywhere, frostbitten fingers, headlamp flashlight, the thought of a warm apartment. Change belt. Razbortirovannoe wheel changed. By "slightly" and sleep. Wonderful invention "Ebershpeher" - cabin heater. Thing. While practicing, drove us to the BRP-shke fully branded snaryagu (obviously not local) parnyaga terse. Conveyed greetings from Max from Nes and told that even after 15 km complete ass, "There hills begin, here is where you n ... dec. But if, after all, to reach Pёshi, chairman of the House will find the farm. It's me. Michael. "He said and disappeared into the night ... So, in art. Good night's rest, go. Along the way have been no perceptible, especially in the polar night, naspunkty fat nose, Vizhas, nap in pos.Oma in which every step of scattered fishing boats at dawn flashed deserted village Sheaf. The hills are the same somehow unnoticed had passed. In short, we have come to Pёshi.



Lower Pёsha. At this point, almost all of the NAO Follow us on the Internet, on the very same inReach DeLorme, cool gizmo: sit in the warmth and talk, how cool that you're warm, and those there - cold =) They came, that as a yes, learned that Michael - Chairman of the SEC, production cooperative, in our opinion, whose main activity is fishing and harvesting fish game and send it into the glorious city of Arkhangelsk. Well, there are leaving the fish in different containers and packaging across our country. And it is not our way, too. Norway has great respect for our salmon, for example; Americans say it Ruban once with terrible force.



So, Michael. Came to office, has placed us in his house, fed excellent dumplings, dry all our wet things and again stole on his snowmobile in the office. Such a real northern Russian entrepreneur who makes money not speculation from brokerage or resale of metal from factory to factory, and specific movements. This, as an entrepreneur, landowner in the middle and southern latitudes of our country - a farmer, just to the north. Cool dude.








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Joke.








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Miracle!


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Well, okay.


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