Travel notes: Mogadishu, Somalia (77 photos)

Writes blogger zyalt.
Travel to Somalia began with house arrest. My guide at some point feared that I was a journalist, and has decided to lock me up in a hotel. "Today you sit all day in the room, and tomorrow we will go to the migration service and obtain permission for you to move!" - He pleased me. Sitting all day at the hotel I did not like. Explorer did not want me to ride around the city, as he was afraid ... I was afraid he is. Here is a brief list of his fears: - kill me - I was kidnapped, and asked a million dollars ransom. Such price is now the head of the white man in Somalia. - Local security officers noticed my camera and put me in jail - Local security officers noticed my camera and go to jail conductor - In Somalia, a meteorite fall, and all will die ...

About the kidnapping and ransom should make a clarification. A few years ago there was an unpleasant incident. Local pirates hijacked our oil tanker. Anti-submarine destroyer "Marshal Shaposhnikov" liberated our sailors. After the liberation of our commandos shot the pirates and sank their boats. Pirates of the offense:
"We condemn the actions of Russian, they were guided by racism and hatred of blacks and Africa - is a face of the new Russia. In the future, if we will take the Russian, they will meet the same fate as they carry out? "
So what, if anything, a ransom for the Russian will not be asking.
But back to my hospitality arrest. At some point, the conductor was so frightened that he decided to bring me back to the airport and handed over to the Migration Service of harm's way. I recall that at the airport before the border sits a special person, almost a minister who decides to let you in the country or not.
After a hearty lunch, after difficult negotiations, agreement was reached on a short walk around the city but without a camera. After the second round of difficult negotiations with the conductor, it was agreed that I will shoot on iPhone and Fuji IksPro1 and large Naykon D4 leave in the room and no one else will show !? So there you go on Mogadishu in a troika ride!
For starters, let's understand what Somalia today. In fact, there is no such country. On the map there, but in reality it is a lot of different areas, which no one controls. Somalia as a country virtually ceased to exist in '91. Although earlier in the country were constant civil wars. The most famous autonomy in Somalia - a republic of Somaliland. They declared their independence in 91 and still remain the safest part of Somalia. There's even possible to walk without bodyguards. There are a dozen self-proclaimed autonomous, to understand that you will be able to, if desired. In Russia, the most prominent autonomous region of Puntland, which many jokingly referred Putlend. Puntland is considered to be the main center for Somali piracy. There are Azania, the autonomous region is famous for the fact that its flag is the same as in Russia. Some areas do not have any power was centralized and managed by the heads of the local tribes and pirates. And of course, in Somalia stronghold of Islamists and the fans of Al-Qaeda. In fact, this anarchy. No one is responsible for anything.
Himself Mogadishu, the official capital, has long been the center of the fighting. Until recently, the authorities controlled only 60% of the capital, but now the situation has returned to normal and a little city cleaned. Outside the city is better not to leave, there is the radical Islamists.
01. My guide likes to say: "Somalia - a country not for tourism." To feel safe, we had to hire guards. Security is $ 1,000 per day. For the money you get two machine gunner, driver and conductor bore that will just afraid and eventually hide you in the hotel. Protection, by the way, good work out their money. For example, when the car stops at the hotel, they cover the whole street, so you calmly crossed the road. Generally, when any stop decided to block the street. This is done, apparently in order to avoid being pushed into a passing car. Many readers believe that the Somalis had kindled my high prices. I believe that the protection you have to pay so much that they had no desire to rob you.

02. Security does not allow to go to the front. Dream Somalis that you went to the trunk or sitting in the hotel. In an extreme case, you are trying to cram into the back seat in the middle, and on both sides of the plant gunmen. Strange feeling. On the one hand you feel important person, which all protected with other inmates, who do not give a step to the side.

03. When the car goes around the city, the guard opens the window and sticks machine for all to see. I'm also open the window and leans out the camera.

04. The roads are bad in Mogadishu for 20 years of war they had not repaired.


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