Climbing in Nepal on Island Peak mountain Bashny.Net

Climbed in Nepal, the mountain Island Peak altitude of 6189 meters. Our large international group, Russians, Ukrainians, 2 Canadians and Swiss (all released 32) rose Calla–Pathar 5545м. For a group that was going to go on, eilender, of Kala Pathar was the acclimatization for the upcoming ascent on the way back we split up — hug, Pat on the back, feel at least a group that right now otpravlyaut to Mars, and waving handkerchiefs and poles, most of the group goes down. this leaves 10



Our team of Alendronova briskly walking toward the village of Dingboche, where the height of 4300m, where we have to stop for a snack



to say mountainous Nepal is beautiful, don't say anything, even given the fact that behind for 2 days, and before that so do 2 of trekking in Nepal, every time I am surprised and amazed



life around us is flowing sizes



we reach the place of accommodation in the village of chukung at 4800, long, boring, uneventful and beauty, but that evening in the village is just unreal sunset







Waking up in the morning, after Breakfast unassuming Nepalese food and having pushed a handful of vitamins and other wheel of fellow Alpine expeditions, my begin to measure albota, pick up system, try cat, take carbines





prokopievskiy much more than our group still out of the Chukung, but can afford it, running only 3 hours to the base camp and make the ascent to island peak, snow and fresh, the mood is nervous, tomorrow climbing, every self-absorbed, everyone is nervous, the jokes are strained, and most about camp, summit and ascent. For most of the group is the first climbing, and although it is in the climbing crowd is simple, it won't be easy





Come to the assault camp. Camp was located at 5087, we stand a little above the ground at the altitude of 5100



it is part of a national Park, between the tents and scurry fatty neglicie of kuropatki) jokes on the subject — and let's catch and fry our guides smile and show gestures like the game crocodile, hand, handcuffs, bad)))



another arrogant representatives of the local fauna, local–not–know–who) the Sherpas chased them mercilessly, and the birds, when the Sherpas do not see, stealing everything that comes under the beak



by the time we got the camp is not necessary, we put up tents themselves





the evening before the climb, the training output for operation with a rope system, a lifting skills on gumare, down to eight, the rules of conduct on proverennyh the railing, driven by the cats Chukung hire is surprisingly very good gear, carbines (except novamov) Petzl, black dimondi; same thing with cats, and dumarami systems, you can do nothing to take and to rent, all together in 2 days the guys took something in the region of 40 bucks





the evening before the ascent, at camp silence diluted with spells of Sherpas but the noise of the burner





a night in a tent much less 10, my feeling is degree –15, my clock can show the temperature to —10, when the temperature is lower, they write less than 10, and all) I learned how to determine approximately the speed of screen switching between modes. Woke up in the morning, drank tea, do not want to eat at such a height at all, but push yourself oatmeal with honey, and put all five hundred thousand of clothes for yourself, underwear, warm set polar fleece top-gortex pants, fleece top and jacket from polar stretch, 2 pairs of socks and boots climbing



came in 2-20, ten people and 3 high-mountain guide and climber, Sona has only recently returned from climbing on MT Kangchenjunga Django where a lot frostbite toes, but the us refused. The temperature outside somewhere -25 sooo lucky with the weather: no wind and was not at all cloudy, although two days before this started Ciresi (such flat ripped preobrazenie clouds — the harbingers of bad weather, and we are all frightened by the bad weather)



About the tablets. I'm on a minimal set of: vitamin C, b-complex Indian — adaptogen, cardio protector of the Indian, and the tribe set shit all. In the minimum set have all about the same: assault backpack 20-40 litres it cat climbing system with jumara (to raise himself on the top rope on steep walls) eight (for the descent to the bottom itself), 2 lanyard, 2 muttanna and 4 take-down carbine. Ice pick I don't take, leave it in the camp, the guys wanted so I took it and they pofotkalis with him on top, but when I suggested it to someone to drag, all were silent, so the ice axe was waiting for me with climbing in the tent



New snow fell, the route travelled, the railing on the route were fixed. A bottle of water, all sorts of nutritional bars until dawn, tulima up gaining altitude, the gorge, rocky gully, traverses, angles sometimes hellish, imagine that you are with a hangover ran a 5K, did 100 squats and on the bar tightened 50 times shorter, head slightly spinning, legs, hands, lashes, steadily, step by step, wander, otherwise climbing will not be called, as always, sad and sad buried in the spot light and looking at the shoes ahead slowly step by step.





at dawn go to the top of the stone base and come under the glacier somewhere in the 6-30 am. leaves the sun to become warmer, constantly moving hands and feet to poorside. From oxygen starvation, the body begins to less important organs to give less blood. in the fingers, cheek numbness and tingling, we are well and competently akklimatizirovannoi (3 days before the ascent to island peak with a group went to Kala Pathar comb coming down from the mountain Pumori height there 5545, from an unrealistic view of the highest point of the earth — Everest, Lhotse and fence scallop Nuptse





yet do we put on a harness, our guides were binding sites for ligaments, divide the group into 2 bundles and starts the gesture, angles of 30-40 degrees, thank God the snow utopian and a trail is not necessary, but beauty is of course unrealistic



eyes just fall out from the beauty, and the brain refuses to see what he saw







Source: interest-planet.ru