7 Summits

Writes Olga Rumyantsev:
Instead of an epilogue ...

Merchant, going to swimming:
 - What did you bring, youngest daughter?
 - Bring me, sir, terrible monster for sexual pleasures and perversions!
 - What do you mean, my daughter, I'm a father to you - I can not afford!
 - (Sighs) Well ... go a long way ... Bring me, sir, vermillion flower.

All 2013 I was engaged in the implementation of the project "7 Summits for the year." In fact, the project had a beautiful name Kaspersky 7 Volcanos Expedition. And the first word you can understand, thanks to whom this adventure took place.

And now, a month later, it is time to tell you all represent and what happened in reality.






So in 2013, I ascended the seven volcanoes, on every continent on the highest volcano. I was trying to do for the year, which failed. And alone. What is not entirely successful.
In the end, I was the third person in the world to carry out this project, the first in Russia. Almost immediately after my project fulfilled another man and another is about to perform ...
Well, on the execution speed can be said that set a world record :)

In fact, when the project was conceived, I was not going to set any records. More than that, I did a project initially did not want to. But ... There were a variety of Wishlist. If I tried to articulate what I really want, I'm afraid we would have "horrible monster", so we had to go a long way :)

The result was what happened. Not since he saw at the beginning. Absolutely not. Actually not so much so that it is unlikely I would be willing to ever again to repeat it.

But in spite of everything, it was a memorable year was afigenski, and I am very grateful to everyone who helped me morally and financially to carry out this project.

Well, now, how it was ...

Some common experiences.

1. Project 7 Summits.

Draft - it sounds good. It's kind of a complete whole idea.
In fact, I was already on the volcanoes of 4 7. And if Kilimanjaro - it is so good that I'm willing to come back again and again, to go again to Elbrus and Demavent did not want to.

2. The 7 Summits for the year

What is the 7 ascents? Yes nonsense. Therefore, to give at least some passion for sport had to introduce a limited timeframe. For example, one year. He's as big as the globe - it is so small.
It was found that 7 independent expeditions to different corners of the planet in one year - To get it as much. True to this the overlap of the trip ... so get even ofiget-To get as much.
All this resulted in a terrible moral and physical fatigue. On new experience imposed a new image lubricating knowledge of the world and reducing joy and every new climb given harder.

3. 7 Volcanoes alone

To be honest, something I podzamuchilas little to drive customers to the mountain. Because you go all the time as a machine to calculate what to do to avoid problems and how razrulit problems because they still appear. Instead of climbing to safely explore the area, vechto solve some issues. And voskhodzhenii instead to look around, look at the customer ...
In general, I just quietly travel the world and go to the mountain of nothing to worry, and for anyone not responding. For one thing about life at leisure to think ...

It turned out that for anyone to go without answering and going it alone - are two big differences :)
Somewhere in the middle of the path is already the loneliness is in the throat rose.
I wish that there was someone nearby with whom you can make plans to discuss the previous day. In the end, that there was someone who could kick towards the top, when lazy to get out of the tent.
And the life of lonely evenings, so I contrived ...

There were certainly pluses. First, I read "Anna Karenina", read "The Idiot" and discovered Leskov.
Second, I met and talked with lots of people from different countries. That's interesting.

Now, volcanoes and pictures.

1. Antarctica. Sidley Volcano (4181 m). January 2013




Antarctica - it's a dream. And the rare case when a dream come true does not disappoint.
This tale is another planet. This is something inexplicable and zavorazhivyuschee.

And as a bonus - like where no man has gone before. How many more such places on our planet?




And the crazy flight on




And the general impression - something solnoechnogo and very joyful. Although of course I remember once in the tent steel spoon primerzla me the language. Or, as when climbing Sidley waved his arms like a crazy helicopter to somehow to warm them. Or at Union Glacier built snow shafts to the tent is not carried away ... But now it seems that it was all a lie. And the truth - she is




Of the minuses. In Antarctica, I spent almost two months. At first she worked - drove two groups the highest mountain Antrarktidy - Vinson Massif. Therefore, at the beginning of the expedition to Sidley I do not want any beauty, adventure and Antarctica. I wanted only one thing - home ...

2. Africa. Tanzania. Kilimanjaro (5895 m). Umbwe route. February 2013.



It is for this kind of I'm ready to ride on the Kilimanjaro again and again.

Umbwe route - straight as an arrow. The most deserted in the first part of the path (for the first two days and did not meet any tourist).



From amazing. I almost died from the cold on the approaches :)



From unpleasant. On the ascent decided to show that I am the most agile and athletic. As a result, the road to the crater ahead of all who can. This forces ended and on the way to the top, I was a pitiful sight :)

But still. Kilimanjaro - a love forever :)



3. Asia. Iran. Demavent (5671 m). June 2013.



Blue sky, white mountain, red poppies ... Very nice. Once there it is necessary to visit all means. But only one.
The country itself is surprisingly boring to ugliness. A variety of kebabs in a couple of days begin to get stuck in my throat :)



What made this trip? I lived in the family of my friend, a local guide Hussein. It was interesting to see how they really live.
Home food is radically different from the endless kebab restaurants.
Hossein teaches at the University of tourism. In one session I was invited as a visiting stars :) And a couple of hours, I answered many questions. It was interesting to find out what the Iranians like to know about us.

Of the minuses. On the ascent I took two days. That is no acclimatization. It was not good.
But when a week later I was already there as a guide with the group, it was easy relaxed stroll. Rather, it could be, if not work ...
On top of the day, I climbed one - that's a plus. But to make the photos from the top of the flag, it took about an hour to run it - is a minus :)



4. Europe. Russia. Elbrus (5635 m). July 2013.

Elbrus - a man-made catastrophe. It's a shame our country. So I do not like to walk.



The local population turned it into a means of extracting money by any means. This complete unwillingness to do so is somehow civilized.
Perhaps that is why many times from foreigners visited there, we always hear the same thing: "It is not a mountain, it's - mess. Why? "And the stories about toilets on Elbrus drammatizmu not inferior to the most terrible horror movies.

And in general, this attraction - bring the carcass as high as possible.
First on the cable car, then on snowmobile ...



My attempt from top to bottom within walking distance was misunderstood and ridiculed by all climbers encountered (or the right to say "vozezzhatelyami»?).



The truth is at some point, I myself thought I got excited. And nearly turned back



Because it was necessary to do a proper acclimatization and then we go to the bottom. Or the race weekend with the help of technical means, and not to show off.
Race Weekend with increased load - turned out not very :(

By the way, I was on the ascent to the day when the glorious company through which I realize his project celebrating her birthday. So it is dedicated to his ascent was :)



5. Australia and Oceania. Papua New Guinea. Giluwe (4368 m). September 2013.

A trip to Papua - New Guinea - an event in itself strange. What can we say about mountain climbing in this country ...
Mountaineering is not there :)

I never went to the top in rubber boots



Among the five obkurennyh Aboriginal



I do not spend the night in the caves of ancient people and danced in the Papuan tribe



And there was a difficult time when my guides tried to convince me that it is impossible to go to the top. And I convinced them otherwise, for which they thanked me, then long



Papua - New Guinea - is a place where probably worth visiting once, to see a very different life, where time has stopped many years ago. But where I did not want more to return. Never.

6. North America. Mexico. Orizaba Peak (5700 m). November 2013.



Interesting country, beautiful mountain ... I Do not cause me special delight. But in general could get a nice trip ...



But by November, my brain has difficulty digesting the new trip, and the body is so tired that I got sick for no reason.
On the climb I went sick.
Without the voice, completely lost the ability to communicate with others.
So how opofioz apfigeya - I am absolutely sick and lonely in some delirium, on the small machine for the purpose of crossing the Mexico swim in the ocean ...
Luckily everything ended well. On the mountain skhodila.V the ocean for a swim. And even in the last moment he managed to return to Mexico City and to sit in his plane.



7. South America. Chile. Ojos del Salado (6893 m). December 2013.

I saw a very small piece of Atacama. But even this small piece of shook my already shaken imagination.



This is a very, very nice. So beautiful that I know for sure that there will be back.



The very same end of the project came out very drammatichnym ...
The accident, surgery, rapid ascent ... This is when everybody loves a winner ...



Now I do not know by hearsay, what a great thing - motivation.
In Chile, the operated with the little finger, hand peeled to the meat, all broken prebitaya sekudny I have no doubts, without experiencing any problems immediately discharged from the hospital and went to climb to seven thousand ... Type: I see the goal, I do not see obstacles ...
In Moscow, with a passive little finger just underwent surgery after the same operation three days I was dying, barely moving and hardly came to itself.



That's all. I did not get what she wanted - nice walks in beautiful places.
But I got something else. A more valuable. Answers to many questions unasked :)

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