"The backstage kitchen" loud and fabulously fantasy, colorful projects - a topic interesting. Always I wondering how to create a particular image, costume, accessory, because sometimes these stories are funny and curious - to take at least tied at the waist sash of Captain Jack Sparrow, which are woven in a single Turkish village. The feasibility of such deeds designers, collecting exceptional things for second demonstration on the screen, put aside: do not take other people's money. Our business is small and pleasant - to look at the result.
Now the focus of the latest Disney fairy tale - "Maleficent". Yes, perhaps the famous witches and clothing can not be compared to a great outfit Evil Queen Ravenna from "Snow White and the Huntsman", but on the part of the make-up and way of Angelina has done the impossible - to bypass the god-like Charlize Theron.
Anyone who has watched the film, or at least seen the trailers, I realized that the image of Angelina Jolie is Maleficent got used to such an extent that it seems it has become itself. Thanks to her efforts and influence of Disney bosses have gone many concessions on the part of the appearance of the character. All visual changes and transformation of the character - a merit of excellent design team, which led Angelina herself.
Angie began work on the external appearance of the heroine is still 6 weeks before the official start of filming. Daily conversations with experts, discuss hot smallest details appearance gave great results. The cost of costumes and make-up has cost tens of thousands of dollars, including the payment of stylists and designers. The work was done tremendous, and although there is already a similar position, where everything is briefly described, I tried to collect all the available material to date, which includes not only suit the image of Maleficent, and other characters.
Angelina was determined not only to reveal the nature of the character, but also beat its appearance. We worked together on the hero that it was not just the stereotypical image, but close to it - the people themselves had to recognize in it Maleficent.
- The director says Stromberg.
The first step was to do the external appearance Maleficent: horns and try to determine the contours of the face. With this task coped seven-time winner of the famous statuettes makeup master Rick Baker. Its performance image Maleficent he presented in graphical form. He felt that with the exception of the horns and pointy ears, the exterior of heroine did not cost anything more to add. But Angelina insisted, and the image had to be modified. She wanted to use the pads to change the nose (to his own, she reacted quite critical), and this resulted in a huge number of sketches cheekbones, ears and horns. After the sketches to create an exact copy of a plaster head Angie and covers all first try on her.
Baker created the zygomatic, nasal and ear pads of silicone gel; translucent material is easily stained to the desired shade. Although cheek pads seem large, they were only 1, 5 inches from the skin and is attached directly to the most bulging part of the cheekbones.
Perhaps it is difficult to immediately notice the change, but the nose and Jolie became a little more. There was a small hump on the bridge, which is especially noticeable in the profile. Almost unnoticed were more pointed molars.
The film often, emphasis is on the look Maleficent, who literally fascinated. Of course, in many ways it helped to computer graphics, but the eye color of the actress underwent a change with the help of lenses. Design lenses developed Angelina each lens sign it first class artist Christina Patterson manually with green, blue and yellow colors that have become crucial in the compilation of the shadows.
Above Hair Angelina when they did not hide the helmet with horns (which was attached to the head largely because of them), her team experimented a lot, sometimes weaving in their feathers ("She is in a sense a bird - Angie laughs - why should she hair feathers could be? »).
From green skin had to be abandoned - Maleficent should look beautiful and natural.
In general, a daily process of applying makeup takes four hours.
By the way, delectable wings Maleficent possible and were animated using computer graphics, but the team of Anna Sheppard was able to create the wings in real life, which is already superimposed computer version.
An integral part of the image Maleficent, which gave the character a special charm, not to mention the fact that this pair of twisted horns fell Angelina as well as possible to face. However, their establishment has become a nightmare for designers. The main problem was the horns of their weight and mounting. Nobody will be able to walk all day with huge horns on his head. Horn, apart from their aesthetic beauty, should meet two requirements: low weight and easy to remove.
First of four different species was chosen one final. For the convenience of horns fashioned from polyurethane, making them easy, despite the apparent solidity. They tried to attach directly to the head, but they kept falling. I had to make a black leather helmet, on which the base and one inch horns. The rest of them are joined by means of magnets. Thus, the horn does not fall even when the abrupt movements of the head, and at the same time they can be removed between the takes. In addition, such a device is protected when the actress herself and tricks when it touches the magnificent horns of any wire on the ground: they immediately detached. However, because of this I had to do a lot of copies, as when hitting the ground horns broke. It was available and rubber version, to anyone you do not accidentally hurt.
Apparel and accessories
Implement the new Maleficent in life entrusted costume designer Anna B. Sheppard, known for his work "Schindler's List" and "The Pianist", each of which earned her an Oscar nomination. The designers set task: to create two different worlds, one - the fairy forest inhabited by creatures of the country, the other - the kingdom of men. Sheppard started with the study of clothes, paintings and sculptures in France and Italy for the period from the 15th century to the Renaissance.
After watching the original tale, Sheppard took as a basis the unique style Maleficent and used similar to the original color to Maleficent looked on the big screen exactly the way it had expected to see people.
What materials are not only brought into play in the production of gorgeous costumes of the main character! For dark vestments used supple suede leather goats, other costumes - cow skin and even skin shank ostrich (it is sometimes used in the manufacture of bags and shoes).
At the beginning of the film when Maleficent still had wings to her robes to use a very thin silk, colored layers in different shades to achieve the depth of color. From the lower edge of the shoulder was observed color amber. Because of the connection with nature Maleficent used beige, green and brown colors - very muffled, interspersed with golden yellow, which is so like Angie.
Fierce character evolved and her outfits. Costumes Maleficent "moved" from the mossy colors and flowing fabrics to dark and sculptural forms of heavier fabrics and with great volume.
It was planned that for giving gloom heroine costumes will be created as of moss, but the selected fabric looked too rough. I had to add feathers, leather inserts and faux fur. All the decorations have been made to order the famous US designers.
The complexity of the scene christening outfit was precisely the creation of the iconic, slim silhouette, which flew to the motion. Apparel and attached cape glitter are inherent in natural leather. That's just the skin in the manner of Shibori pleating is simply impossible. Inlays of leather weighted hem and collar. Everything else - the fabric.
Jolie had to try a lot of garments from 30 different fabrics, but a consensus designers and actress failed to arrive. The fabric should be heavy enough to fall to the floor nicely and properly cut, to give a cloak views bat wings. In the end, the choice was stopped on Japanese tissue remaining from Sheppard from the last movie. They used it all in the sewing of the dress down to the last inch.
Although Sheppard developed silhouettes and shape garments Maleficent, complete image of the heroine would have been impossible without the help of other designers who were hired to work with Angelina Jolie and to assist in creating a character style.
Once the horns have acquired visible outlines and securely settled on the head of Angie, work began modist Justin Smith, who designed hats Maleficent. First of all he studied the finished design Anna Sheppard, then created a couple of dresses, also guided way cartoon witch.
Angelina Jolie wanted a headdress could hide hair, but that it was not a turban and a cloth tied round. Because history itself provides many references to animals and forest creatures, Smith tried to pass it up. Despite the fact that it seemed piece created man, he combined the skin and tissue, as if taken from forests that Maleficent wrapped around the head. Everything had to look simple and natural.
Smith has created six different hats according to the seasons and the specifics of the scenes.
At the christening was a piece of leather, leather-covered horns. Spring image consisted of thin strips of skin sewn together to create a "ribbed" effect, which is then varnished and painted. There was a piece in which combined the stingray skin (a kind of electric ray) on top of a normal skin on the sides.
The course also was the fabric used in the sewing of garments. To work even had to learn a couple of books on knitting knots.
No costume would be complete without shoes and jewelry, so Rob Goodwin, designer shoes upper class took on the role of the expert in the skin. He admitted that many of his own inspired Angelina.
We discussed with her that the most suitable character. We did some sketches based on their own knowledge and understanding to finalize appearance Maleficent.
Goodwin worked with leather, interspersed with his feathers, beads and other materials that meet the definition of primitive elegance, such as scales. That alone suggests that Maleficent is not a man. Big challenge for Goodwin made design for battle scenes. From the very beginning I had in mind the idea of headgear and footwear for battle, intending to make them hard, frightening, yet elegant.
Himself vestments for the final battle in the castle engaged Manuel Albarran. It was necessary to make sure that this would suit the actress to move, jump, fight and do all the stunts. We had to make a number of different samples to test them on mobility, weight and balance before you finalize the design.
Albarran originally joined the design team for the production of accessories for Maleficent - Jewellery and collar. He created for her collars, rings, brooches, bracelets, Shoulders. Before you get started, Albarran for inspiration studied legends, history and architecture. He had to string up to implement planned to life, inventing this or that technique.
He created collars different structure and material. Silhouette of them turned feminine and elegant, but at the same time fits perfectly and increase the atmosphere of gloom and powerful. Sometimes, to create the collar, use a single piece of leather, connects it to the shoulders and back, on top of him to sew different skin, feathers and other decorations and details to create a completed version. In some cases, the frame made of wire and fixed to the body Joly.
In the case of Angelina could do things much more rigid, like men, it is only accentuated her beauty.
Albarran was represented by Maleficent as very organic way, inextricably linked with nature, and therefore the most of the natural materials. In the course went gold, brass, copper, precious stones and crystals, different skin, feathers and more.
But the image would not look complete without makeup, and there tried their best personal makeup artist Angelina Jolie Tony G. It connects to the once attached to the face of Angelina and compared with the tone of the person all the lining. It is first treated with the lightest area in the form of an inverted triangle, from the eye to the outer part of the edge of the cheeks and nose.
For eye make-up to use natural colors: gray-brown and dark brown, and black - for a dramatic look. For greater compatibility with lenses added to the palette a little gold. Shades were selected by the color of stone Labrador, a palette which was taken as a fundamental principle in the development of lenses.
With an integral part of the classical Maleficent - red lips - I had to tinker. It has been tried many shades of red in an effort to find the real bright red. But it's not so bad: it was to be used in the proper consistency and a little shine. The final version was very dramatic. The same color is now in the public domain; lipstick from MAC has a telling title "The Kiss of true love." During the filming has been used about 3 tube of lipstick.
Not paid attention to the creators and nails Maleficent. The basis was black, its top covered with a pearly sheen, although the basis for the christening scene took a blood-red color.
From green abandoned, but also the natural color of the skin is not left, so the point strokes MAC Select Cover Concealer with further shading with a damp sponge, the skin of Angelina gave much paler shade of her own, without a hint of color (all colors and cosmetics used to create Maleficent It is freely available on the company's eponymous collection MAC «Maleficent»).
The actress spent in the make-up 70 days, working sometimes 16 hours a day. Tony G enjoyed Kiehl's Blue Astringent, to prepare the skin Jolie - it was the only option, otherwise no lining would not resist. The skin had to process and after the shooting - as all the facial pads were attached to the adhesive at the make-up were well-founded fear. After removal of the adhesive skin moistened with a mixture of coconut oil and argan oil, thus avoiding unpleasant consequences.
Get away for a short while from the material components of an image. As we know, not only the appearance of doing Maleficent Maleficent. Angelina seriously work on the manner of speech, accent and tone of voice. It has been based upon a classic English speech. "We are not able to enjoy as language, as do the English" - said Jolie. Every night, bathing the children, she told them stories in different voices. Some versions of their much surprised ("Mommy, why do you say that?"), The other - forced to laugh. These are the options and selected the Angelina: she wanted to voice amused. But who does not feel like something warm spread from the throat to the stomach, where it is in all its glory comes at a christening with the words «Well, well»? Certainly not me.
Now for the dresses is not so noticeable, but still beautiful - those who had to wear the other heroes of the film.
To create clothing appropriate age for Elle Fanning, which at the beginning of the filming was only 14 years old, I had to think about it. From the classic image of the Aurora is completely moved. It was necessary to create something girlish, with a focus on innocence and connection with nature. Putting modesty and restraint image Sheppard even made an extra layer under the chenille suits Aurora and insisted that the sleeve completely covers her hands. Rejecting the form "hourglass" that has been developed for the cartoon, Sheppard tried to make dresses Aurora "very long, very fluid and not sexy." However, the image held not only on the idea of chastity. Combine different layers and organic textures (including cotton and fine wool, which resulted in the movement of the clothes, the heroine should only take a step), thereby giving a bohemian character image corresponding to its versatile education. When the audience meets matured Aurora, a girl living in the forest, her dress probably sewed extravagant aunt, eccentric lady.
At the same time, the character itself El full light. She is incredibly innocent, her beautiful complexion and beautiful hair, so that the makeup was almost not needed.