On holiday Papuans

Writes blogger Gleb Kuznetsov:

I Gleb Kuznetsov, I'm 27 years old, when I used to live in Moscow, but it was before I went on a journey from India to Argentina. Today I want to tell you about one of his day, held at the festival Papuans Vosilimo village in the north of the valley Balem in the heart of the Indonesian part of the island of Papua.
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2. These two beautiful guys from London to wake me up in a hut on the hillside in Vosilimo. Already I heard the drums, so you need to hurry to the field outside the village, where today is to begin a three-day festival of the people of tribute. But before my friends. Carl (in white shirt) and Austin (which is striped) deaf. And Austin deaf "glamor" photos - you often see his models, covered with pink perfume scent Gucci (if there are such spirits) on the dusty streets of Moscow. I subchain guys this morning at the airport town Vanema (that is on the landing field of the Papuan bandit camp) - they are surrounded by a crowd of vagabonds who were going to not rob folks not lead to the mountains for $ 200 a day. Fraudsters went home, and we are the guys at the local transport, with backyard smoking women and their children in his lap, we got to Vosilimo and settled in a tourist hut.



3. Such disposition. (And here I am, in person). But immediately go to lunch to a family containing tourist huts. By the way, the journey of a beggar Papua - the most expensive of the tested me on the way from India. The cheapest and totally disgusting room here costs about 20 dollars, and to get from one village to another, you need a week to stomp through the jungle or take a plane. But here we are mowed three times the price he had agreed to pay $ 10 per cabin and a 5 half board for homemade food.



4. This is a wonderful family and the people of Denmark. Having no idea of ​​English, these people are so succinctly express themselves with gestures that you can not completely take up the study of Indonesian. At a meeting courageous men shake hands, and timid women and children first look askance, but he realized that Mr. White has no plans to abduct and rape them, smile and a couple of kilometers after shuffling, grinding stuff on your tongue. But the manners of tribute, I'll tell apart as the breakfast in the hut - and the festival.



5. And there is nothing simpler breakfast at the people of tribute. It is only sweet potatoes, that is a great spot, crumbly and sweet potatoes. Nothing else. The hostess at which kids are crawling with potatoes, still asks if we "shugera" to add to the boiling water, and hit the road.



6. Stomp back, and we first see the "hostile natives", frightened the discoverers of the island - the Dutch.



7. howling and whistling to a polygon approaching dump trucks full of armed natives. They jump to the ground and immediately begin to undress and hooligans.



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11. The ratio of 1 to 1 is brought dump Indonesian soldiers. Around placed police commandos with M-16s and grenade belts, like the revolutionary sailors in 1917. Papuans have tried to declare independence (it ended with the murder of their leader), but the festival and the meeting of all the men in the tribe and in the combat arms color - a good excuse for a rebellion! Ear to the ground - and the Papuans to the landfill.



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14. The Chief, eye-catching white stick and Kotek (the very thing that they put on a causal place) higher than his head, is discussing a plan of action with the organizers. Meanwhile, the elderly occupy the center of the field (a half a kilometer long and 500 meters wide) around the pillar of torture. Young war are divided into groups of "rural" principle and the plant militant chants and dances.



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16. Are and the most crafty, poses for photographers on the sidelines and collect tribute cigarettes. Smoking cheap tobacco and chewing the local soft drugs "foam" - the two main pleasure in the valley Balem. Indonesians prohibit import alcohol here, since most of its microscopic doses Aborigines dureyut incredible. All the same, daniytsy learned to produce something for a sweet potato mash and in the evening the young Russian tourist can recall darling Gopnik. However, the festival morning, and the sky is cloudless.



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18. The leader gives the order, and country teams, led by wars, accompanied by old men and women rush to the hooting on general construction.



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23. spectators gathered several dozens of photographers from around the world, the same number of Indonesian bosses, and from the neighborhood pulled together representatives of the people of tribute. But some of the features of the holiday Papuan later, but for now the distinguished guests recite a brief welcome speech, and the women and men on the periphery of the festival smear clay, generic patterns applied white paint and throw themselves into a dance.



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29. With this absolutely wonderful leader of one of the villages in the central neighborhood I could not take pictures. Pay attention to its modernized Kotek! In his village it has entered civilization: it has rubber boots, and also managed to gather up the Khoi-what garbage to decorate the national dress. And sunglasses! Still hanging behind the disc from the Bulgarian and headphones from the player. And all this, of course, the grotesque, but he fully reflect the Papuan daily.



30. That's a picture of what a Papuan in Papua. V.I.P. Tribune - and under it own people. The local organizers, police were ruthlessly chase with sticks to scare people, and the ticket price of $ 25 leaves them beyond the celebration of life. But they have their way!



The author has found a continuation of this theme ... more 40 photos - you can break))

By the way, these tickets exist only in the imagination of their Papuan policemen and victims. No sane white tourist never buy it - just because no policeman will ever dare to ask the white man's ticket. In Papua huge gulf between white and Curly (this is not an insult to a translation of "Papuan"), in Mikhalkov's "Unfinished Piece for Mechanical Piano", "grimy" knows his place. Indonesians from Java to Europeans are the same fraction of respect, do they have less fear, and they are trying to please Mr. white, strongly expressing the benevolence and providing small services. In short, I feel like a man (already accustomed to all sorts of indignant cries, explain that this is sarcasm).



In fact, the attitude of many corrupt and as a result, here are pictures here. I hate - I always try to take photos from a distance, quietly, quickly. Twirl the model, the more naked and terrified, and showered their clacking shutters and flashes of ... well, you can see for yourself.



However, local edges achieved progress!



While at the site, and dance sharpen spears at a distance stretched Papuan bedlam. Trade tasteless tangerines for $ 2 10 pieces, drug cupboards, from which teeth Papuans are scarlet, rice and drinking water at exorbitant prices.



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In the near the landfill yard baked pig. That Papuan traditional recipe (for those who will be in the valley Balem, you can for $ 100 in a village to observe the process and partake of its fruits). Trunk first pig roasted on an open fire, then put on the hot stones and covered the top with hay and aromatic herbs. An hour later - please come to the table.



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That, and we dined at the festival, and a soft and fragrant pork brought the Papuans their favorite sweet potato.



But back to the landfill. The sun was at its zenith, and there began pig races. Mumps Valley Balem that dogs: they know their mistresses, walk behind them a tail, and here and run a race.



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