722
Kandalaksha TUNDRA
"I remembered the way deserted neodnazhdy
Quays silence, deaf to the storm,
And you, and a good dog in the dank Kandalaksha,
The same brightness as kola winter. »
I used to always say, "winter campaign ?! Yes this is a million times hotter than the summer! "Of course, the first winter ever was in the spring, when the sun was shining brightly and warmed. The second remained in the memory of most part of the tent, so all the memories of the cold displacing. But now I can say out loud: "We have passed the test of cold!" And in general, we have passed the test, and the forest, and smoke, and were rewarded in full. Desperate wait fluffy snow and cold winter, we have collected backpacks and went to the Kola Peninsula. For a long time I wanted to see the northern mountains in the winter.
In the summer of 2012 traveling the Khibiny, I noted that the winter under the snow, these curves are incredibly beautiful. And finally, we set sights on Kandalaksha tundra. The mountains are low, but the topography and vegetation make them very beautiful.
1 day marching
Dark dank ... ...
We boarded the train Moscow - Murmansk Kandalaksha early in the morning, and then, after waiting a bus to the village. Luvenga and drive just 15 minutes, we went to the route. It sounds quite cheerfully. In fact, when we put skis and waited until Vovk tackles mounts, it seemed that the bus took us into a real hell. Only in the hell it was supposed to be hot and the light (well, I think so), and in the same place on the road was pitch darkness and bitter cold. We wound circles around the gathering that though a little warm. But the arms and legs refused to sensitivity, and we began to make friends with them only in the end of a hike.
Well that began with the rise of the way. There was no wind, and we warmed up, climbing up the hill on the highway. Somewhere around 10 am start "civil twilight". The sky brightened and pinker. On the horizon appeared the outlines of the hills. Moving on, we noticed that one mountain terrain is very "ragged" and very surprised identified the mountain - a cloud.
Due to the fact that in the darkness, we missed the turn off the highway, we had to go on the road, skirting the forest zone. But we have seen through the trees
Kolvitsa Bay - Bay of the White Sea.
After a couple hours of strong wind. It dig splinters in the face of the mantle of the Snow Queen. Then some began to show signs of frostbite. We rubbed the white spots on the face and wore masks, balaclavas - everything that could protect them from the wind. They tried to hide in the woods, but it was difficult to move, and we again took to the road. After another fifteen minutes saw the long-awaited congress of the road. It began to rise. A few minutes later the trail ended, and we began to fight with the forest kingdom. Backpacks were tough, physical form after a snowless Christmas holidays also leaves much to be desired and the lack of sleep affected.
So we started to get up at the bivouac in the fourth hour. From the soft rays of the sun, making their way to the meadow, I began to struggle enthusiastic cries, and the first time I took the camera.
At four-thirty already started civil twilight and darkness came about half past five.
The first bivouac came not lumpy, but oochen long pancake. Firewood for withdrawal was not enough, so the process firewood we have entrusted the boys and Willy nest themselves in the tent. Boil water on the fire was not so easy - for Toll gave us a campfire area around 50x30 cm - the metal sheet. Caring for nature is of course paramount, but I am terribly angry when the water could boil about 50 minutes!
By nine in the evening tired boy crawled into the tent. We had supper and identifying all on duty, went to bed.
2 day camp
This day will be remembered long stiff fees camps. Girls with antitrosikovoy policy fixtures NNN jump, crouch, stirring until everything than they cooled the sheet metal from the fire, clean the pipe and was going to the tent. then we realized that the strategy to prepare for the day you need to change the stowed position. And the whole campaign we developed new Strater every day.
This day walk was not very cold, as were almost constantly upwards. But the forest was so thick, and constantly ran into some streams, fallen trees.
But a couple of times across picturesque glades.
Forest greatly disturbed speed. And if the first day we are still hoping that the 80 km route we could handle, the second day realized that the route we cut. And cut mercilessly.
Tired so that stood up in the woods, which does not break any ray of the setting sun.
3 day camp
On the third day we got up early and came quickly. We made a couple of steps in the forest, and took to the road. She was up to the pass. We even slightly undressed - after a steep rise expected.
Famously flew higher and higher, as were seen last around snowy hills and bare, treeless peaks.
Under saddle we otpoldnichali takeoff. Here for the first time I wanted to eat! much! So what
Open gift (peanuts with condensed milk) food for the ears.
We arrived at the pass. The sharp biting wind could not stifle our emotions. All that we deserve! Although not without its regular frostbite, still Finally we saw the sun, its rays on the snow ... and it was perfect.
The descent from the pass was a very gentle, cheerful and ... orange, pink, lemon.
The first time we watched the sunset twilight in all its glory.
Choose the place for the tent sacrificing comfort, for the sake of the beautiful "view from the window." "The tree was as much as is necessary for night firing tent, and no more so as not to block the excess from the slope of the review." - From the non-technical diary of Dima.
Filmed unseen beasts.
I wanted to do and take pictures! The starry sky has opened his arms.
4 day camp
My denrozhdenskoe good morning began with cocoa and swim in it zefirkami. I'm waiting for this day to expand all the gifts I was given favorite friends. The most useful was the sister a present - socks, a wool content of 85% -such I have not found in the bottom. In this day and if the legs do not feel cold! We traveled quite cheerfully because our joy trail was visible. Then she turned to Burao road.
Long or short, and we were finally on the right saw the gleam - it was a big lake Lower Luvengskoe.
After dinner on the bank, we decided to move on at buranke. I knew that to move around the lake in a frost is perfectly safe, but they decided to err and to bypass land. For ten minutes we glided along the road, and suddenly faced with an impassable barrier - wide river blocked our way.
After admiring the dam, we turned back. And the lake still had to go. It was a very bright and beautiful transition.
On the beach, we had a bite and went deep into the forest. It would not have wanted us to do this.
Then we went to the side of the ridge, all the while slowly picking up. On this evening the parking lot of the group remained to put the camp, some went for firewood, and the two left the trail. It was the first night when we were breaking branches, and did not cut wood, was not around the large Sushin.
5 day camp
That day showed us all the beauty of winter Kandalaksha tundra. For that day we fought with them and obstacles. Everything sparkled, glowed, shimmered.
We climbed higher and higher. And the feeling of happiness we covered every moment more and more!
Such enthusiasm, such a unity! This celebration of life! Much everyone felt while standing and admiring this world. Can someone realized something, he may simply merged with that moment. It was perfect!
Unfortunately we had to think about the bivouac. Go down on all this beauty was simply unthinkable. So we moved to a little vetroduya and saw a couple Sushin, began to break the tent. Everything was unimaginable shades of pink.
Stove somehow stubbornly did not want to flare up. Finally, all rescued chips very resinous wood. But it was not the last trick of this iron beast.
6 day camp
Throughout the night, I woke up from the smell of burning. In the morning we prepared Ksjushej most delicious porridge, but then it seemed to me that the stove start to fade ... and all my resuscitation attempts do not help. We woke Vovka, and he realized that the smoke the pipe. He decided to knock on the outside of it. "Ta-da-dada" - it was the sound of a catastrophe. From all the cracks of our stove (there she is not small) saw thick black smoke. Breathe again there was nothing. Then we realized that we need urgent action on the removal of the stove (never before, we have not used it yet). Quickly, we woke up sleeping together, and they all went out into the street. It was cool ... and very black. Black sky and huge stars! Terribly.
All done. In the morning they were all like little devils.
Morning gave delicate shades.
Plans were many. I hope more. But the nature of reason and sobered us.
Realizing that we can not carry out a planned, we began to descend, and dropping from the route. On this day, we went down and quite a lot compared to other days. We went down to the transmission line, and then descend almost stopped, we were moving horizontally.
7 day camp
First we walked through the woods, and later came to the house, where the road began to Luvenga.
We quickly went over and turned the village into two and a half home library in a grocery store and no trash cans. There we saw how the children enjoy this winter and childhood. We waited for the bus to Kandalaksha and settled in an apartment. The next day was planned hike to the gorge light of Love.
I would like to say that I fall in love with the North there is the slightest chance. Here live the most responsive and wonderful people of Russia. Landscapes make the heart beat faster and die in bliss. We will be back here! And our dream is to see the northern lights still celebrate!
©
Quays silence, deaf to the storm,
And you, and a good dog in the dank Kandalaksha,
The same brightness as kola winter. »
I used to always say, "winter campaign ?! Yes this is a million times hotter than the summer! "Of course, the first winter ever was in the spring, when the sun was shining brightly and warmed. The second remained in the memory of most part of the tent, so all the memories of the cold displacing. But now I can say out loud: "We have passed the test of cold!" And in general, we have passed the test, and the forest, and smoke, and were rewarded in full. Desperate wait fluffy snow and cold winter, we have collected backpacks and went to the Kola Peninsula. For a long time I wanted to see the northern mountains in the winter.
In the summer of 2012 traveling the Khibiny, I noted that the winter under the snow, these curves are incredibly beautiful. And finally, we set sights on Kandalaksha tundra. The mountains are low, but the topography and vegetation make them very beautiful.
1 day marching
Dark dank ... ...
We boarded the train Moscow - Murmansk Kandalaksha early in the morning, and then, after waiting a bus to the village. Luvenga and drive just 15 minutes, we went to the route. It sounds quite cheerfully. In fact, when we put skis and waited until Vovk tackles mounts, it seemed that the bus took us into a real hell. Only in the hell it was supposed to be hot and the light (well, I think so), and in the same place on the road was pitch darkness and bitter cold. We wound circles around the gathering that though a little warm. But the arms and legs refused to sensitivity, and we began to make friends with them only in the end of a hike.
Well that began with the rise of the way. There was no wind, and we warmed up, climbing up the hill on the highway. Somewhere around 10 am start "civil twilight". The sky brightened and pinker. On the horizon appeared the outlines of the hills. Moving on, we noticed that one mountain terrain is very "ragged" and very surprised identified the mountain - a cloud.
Due to the fact that in the darkness, we missed the turn off the highway, we had to go on the road, skirting the forest zone. But we have seen through the trees
Kolvitsa Bay - Bay of the White Sea.
After a couple hours of strong wind. It dig splinters in the face of the mantle of the Snow Queen. Then some began to show signs of frostbite. We rubbed the white spots on the face and wore masks, balaclavas - everything that could protect them from the wind. They tried to hide in the woods, but it was difficult to move, and we again took to the road. After another fifteen minutes saw the long-awaited congress of the road. It began to rise. A few minutes later the trail ended, and we began to fight with the forest kingdom. Backpacks were tough, physical form after a snowless Christmas holidays also leaves much to be desired and the lack of sleep affected.
So we started to get up at the bivouac in the fourth hour. From the soft rays of the sun, making their way to the meadow, I began to struggle enthusiastic cries, and the first time I took the camera.
At four-thirty already started civil twilight and darkness came about half past five.
The first bivouac came not lumpy, but oochen long pancake. Firewood for withdrawal was not enough, so the process firewood we have entrusted the boys and Willy nest themselves in the tent. Boil water on the fire was not so easy - for Toll gave us a campfire area around 50x30 cm - the metal sheet. Caring for nature is of course paramount, but I am terribly angry when the water could boil about 50 minutes!
By nine in the evening tired boy crawled into the tent. We had supper and identifying all on duty, went to bed.
2 day camp
This day will be remembered long stiff fees camps. Girls with antitrosikovoy policy fixtures NNN jump, crouch, stirring until everything than they cooled the sheet metal from the fire, clean the pipe and was going to the tent. then we realized that the strategy to prepare for the day you need to change the stowed position. And the whole campaign we developed new Strater every day.
This day walk was not very cold, as were almost constantly upwards. But the forest was so thick, and constantly ran into some streams, fallen trees.
But a couple of times across picturesque glades.
Forest greatly disturbed speed. And if the first day we are still hoping that the 80 km route we could handle, the second day realized that the route we cut. And cut mercilessly.
Tired so that stood up in the woods, which does not break any ray of the setting sun.
3 day camp
On the third day we got up early and came quickly. We made a couple of steps in the forest, and took to the road. She was up to the pass. We even slightly undressed - after a steep rise expected.
Famously flew higher and higher, as were seen last around snowy hills and bare, treeless peaks.
Under saddle we otpoldnichali takeoff. Here for the first time I wanted to eat! much! So what
Open gift (peanuts with condensed milk) food for the ears.
We arrived at the pass. The sharp biting wind could not stifle our emotions. All that we deserve! Although not without its regular frostbite, still Finally we saw the sun, its rays on the snow ... and it was perfect.
The descent from the pass was a very gentle, cheerful and ... orange, pink, lemon.
The first time we watched the sunset twilight in all its glory.
Choose the place for the tent sacrificing comfort, for the sake of the beautiful "view from the window." "The tree was as much as is necessary for night firing tent, and no more so as not to block the excess from the slope of the review." - From the non-technical diary of Dima.
Filmed unseen beasts.
I wanted to do and take pictures! The starry sky has opened his arms.
4 day camp
My denrozhdenskoe good morning began with cocoa and swim in it zefirkami. I'm waiting for this day to expand all the gifts I was given favorite friends. The most useful was the sister a present - socks, a wool content of 85% -such I have not found in the bottom. In this day and if the legs do not feel cold! We traveled quite cheerfully because our joy trail was visible. Then she turned to Burao road.
Long or short, and we were finally on the right saw the gleam - it was a big lake Lower Luvengskoe.
After dinner on the bank, we decided to move on at buranke. I knew that to move around the lake in a frost is perfectly safe, but they decided to err and to bypass land. For ten minutes we glided along the road, and suddenly faced with an impassable barrier - wide river blocked our way.
After admiring the dam, we turned back. And the lake still had to go. It was a very bright and beautiful transition.
On the beach, we had a bite and went deep into the forest. It would not have wanted us to do this.
Then we went to the side of the ridge, all the while slowly picking up. On this evening the parking lot of the group remained to put the camp, some went for firewood, and the two left the trail. It was the first night when we were breaking branches, and did not cut wood, was not around the large Sushin.
5 day camp
That day showed us all the beauty of winter Kandalaksha tundra. For that day we fought with them and obstacles. Everything sparkled, glowed, shimmered.
We climbed higher and higher. And the feeling of happiness we covered every moment more and more!
Such enthusiasm, such a unity! This celebration of life! Much everyone felt while standing and admiring this world. Can someone realized something, he may simply merged with that moment. It was perfect!
Unfortunately we had to think about the bivouac. Go down on all this beauty was simply unthinkable. So we moved to a little vetroduya and saw a couple Sushin, began to break the tent. Everything was unimaginable shades of pink.
Stove somehow stubbornly did not want to flare up. Finally, all rescued chips very resinous wood. But it was not the last trick of this iron beast.
6 day camp
Throughout the night, I woke up from the smell of burning. In the morning we prepared Ksjushej most delicious porridge, but then it seemed to me that the stove start to fade ... and all my resuscitation attempts do not help. We woke Vovka, and he realized that the smoke the pipe. He decided to knock on the outside of it. "Ta-da-dada" - it was the sound of a catastrophe. From all the cracks of our stove (there she is not small) saw thick black smoke. Breathe again there was nothing. Then we realized that we need urgent action on the removal of the stove (never before, we have not used it yet). Quickly, we woke up sleeping together, and they all went out into the street. It was cool ... and very black. Black sky and huge stars! Terribly.
All done. In the morning they were all like little devils.
Morning gave delicate shades.
Plans were many. I hope more. But the nature of reason and sobered us.
Realizing that we can not carry out a planned, we began to descend, and dropping from the route. On this day, we went down and quite a lot compared to other days. We went down to the transmission line, and then descend almost stopped, we were moving horizontally.
7 day camp
First we walked through the woods, and later came to the house, where the road began to Luvenga.
We quickly went over and turned the village into two and a half home library in a grocery store and no trash cans. There we saw how the children enjoy this winter and childhood. We waited for the bus to Kandalaksha and settled in an apartment. The next day was planned hike to the gorge light of Love.
I would like to say that I fall in love with the North there is the slightest chance. Here live the most responsive and wonderful people of Russia. Landscapes make the heart beat faster and die in bliss. We will be back here! And our dream is to see the northern lights still celebrate!
©
