Life in Shanghai (45 photos)

Hiking in the three-storey Shanghai and watch the daily life. The people live where they live, what car being traded in the street ... and the like.
District elected me for a hike, not a tourist, and is away from the clusters Turikov and beggars. But it is good - first of all, it gives a picture of the city untroubled, and secondly, this method reduces any waste - from food to taxis and souvenirs, if that is necessary. One somewhat annoying - almost everywhere you surprised looking at the locals, but this can gradually get used to.

Young Shanghaians Street. Xinle-lu. Hot snack standing on the street


But first, traditionally scheme. Look, the issue of altitude of the city - neboskrёbnogo type building surrounded by a sea maloetazhek around. This is the central, historic districts, housed once the International Settlement. We are, by the way, Let's go around the edge of the French sector, especially where a large vein in the 1930 Russian emigre colony. Its population reached 20 thousand. Compactly living emigrants.

The full path of the campaign in detail, I do not draw, because our journey was very tortuous, and the search for Russian cathedral brings us sometimes to dead-end direction. We came back, changed out and moved on. Starting point, where we arrived on the bus from Pudong - a red asterisk (Jinjiang Park); then a break - walk; and the final part of which ends with an asterisk blue, have access to high-speed north-south highway. Closer to the top of the diagram, from left to right, passes backbone Yan'an Road, it is also clearly visible in the diagram.


3. ... So, we crossed the baggy Yan'an Road and plunged into the low-rise neighborhoods. Pay attention to the street stands with navigation: in Shanghai, they are duplicated in English, which is unusual for China, and shows the direction of the north (N) - the south (S).


4. These are the house - richer mid-range, but also in their homes are often divided into small apartments. In pre-communist city they were individual houses secured layer. See more, but on the streets of a taxi. By the way, even in an expensive by Chinese standards Shanghai taxi costs mere pennies - planting of 12 million yuan (60 p.), Kilometer - 2.4 (12 rubles.). And it is the most expensive taxi from all the cities I've ever seen. So here it can be called a real national transport, are often even older students. If the top of the flame is lit green, then it is free, you can stop.


5. Driven boards and in general, anything in such velosundukah. Try to find a similar transport is not something that would be in Moscow, but somewhere in the Chelyabinsk and Astrakhan. You do not find ... and here - is the norm. And what they are at the crossroads, and talk among themselves, I do not know. Maybe sell.


6. Somewhere at intersections across makeshift shops with stuff. Here is, for example, with different herbs, with hefty sell bundles.


7. Shanghai babuska sit in the shade, rest and look at the surrounding activity. Maybe even, and discuss it.


8. We go further into on Fumin Road. Note the open wire bundles and transformers. There is also the norm.


9. Loew had some mini-otelchik. And it is not cross-eyed.


10. We went to a fork. From the south maloetazhki propped neboskrёbny area, and for some reason we first went down the street to the right that Sproutworks. Then he had to come back here the same, and go down the street, on the block calls in which the silver machine.


11. Go T-shaped intersection, behind - three-storey pre-war little house, probably more times dogomindanovskih.


12. Carriage and delivery of furniture. Telefonchik can write off, and then calls to the office. Behind him - a taxi with a green flame.


13. Go on until the civilized street, approaching the skyscrapers. Stay on track - wi-fi box, the type of phone. Also look closely at the center of the sidewalk - a special relief it is designated on the trail for the blind and visually impaired, it is easy to feel "down". By the way, in China as elsewhere in the cities - apparently is standard. Another relief zones designated "attention", they also easy to feel your feet in shoes.


14. You can peek into courtyards trёhetazhek. Here is the courtyard behind the arch.


15. Then we went back, changed out and finally saw ahead of our goal - former cathedral of the Russian diaspora in Shanghai.


16. We pass the "chifanki" (this is something like a dining room with a simple hearty food, lower class cafe). Quite a long trip across the country forced me to learn about 30 characters, and even the order of 10 two-syllable combinations. They can be, and sketch in a notebook, and then check. So do not believe the panic-mongers, who will assure you that you can not have anywhere else where there are no pictures - allegedly, "still does not understand."
You can - at least approximately. You just have to learn basic Chinese character "meat" (Ms), "rice" (Fan), "chicken" (BBC), "water" (Shuai), etc. desired. Then in a separate post I'll tell you about my method of adapting to the Chinese characteristics. But even now I remember his almost childish delight when the two weeks I memorized some of them and then to recognize familiar signs squiggles ("wow! And this is - a chicken! And this - the soup !!!"). About how happy children are six years old, when they begin to read the letter signs :-) And before that, really, without pictures do not understand anything. As an illiterate.


Yes, squiggle food prices - multiply by five, will receive an amount in rubles. Portions are huge.

17. Okay, come to the Russian cathedral. Here he is handsome, but without the crosses. Once upon a time this place was a center of cultural life of the Russian diaspora. The cathedral survived, survived, survived the Japanese Rebels, Comrade Wang Hongwen and the "January Revolution" in 1967.


Cathedral of the Icon of the Mother of God "Surety of Sinners" - the Cathedral of the Diocese of Shanghai Chinese Orthodox Church.

18. Zaydёm inside. Room condition exemplary, located in some exhibition.


18a. This is a unique snapshot of 1963 - Orthodox wedding Mandriginoy Marianne and Michael Kohler September 4, 1963, 2 years before the closure of the cathedral.


19. The Chinese government allowed worship there continuously until 1965, in the 1949-65 biennium. it was not closed - the communists after the capture of Shanghai were not to complicate relations with the Soviet Union, where Stalin was in the later revived Orthodox Church. Then it was closed, with the beginning of the Cultural Revolution, and for 48 years does not work for its intended purpose. Well, I survived - and the Rebels ("rebels", the factory subspecies of the Red Guards, the term of the Shanghai origin) much of the city defeated in 1966-68 years., Without disassembling confessions.


20. Save and the dome ceiling painted with the then.


21. Here, look a little closer view.


22. Go outside. Since the non-touristic area, then we are here are the walking sights :)


23. Looking at the Cathedral from the street Xinle-lu.


23a. But at the same foreshortening shot in 1937, immediately after the construction.


24. Another carrier is "something there in bags" him - a free taxi.


25. ... We were again curiously watching foreigners here - infrequent visitors. By the way, who in the course, explain to me what they're selling (not corn!). This cane.


26. During the crossroads came upon the scene of mass street dinner.


27. About 20-25 people were recruited hot food directly from the steel and baklazhek chifanili her just standing. Who are they were, I did not understand. Well dressed and clean, many with Lopatnikov smartphones. Perhaps some students? Shiny steel cups handed out some a dedicated man.


28. Okay, let's go further. We delve into some more closely populated area of ​​old houses. The label indicates that lived here and kalligrafist Chinese artist Feng Zikai. House museum, or what?


29. ... Nevertheless, there is heap people live peacefully and dried clothes :-)


30. The picture just idyllic. It seems that he was that way 70 years ago (unless, of course, tear off the facade kondisheny). Here it is an authentic old Shanghai.


31. Next to grow oranges. It's all the same to the south of the Chinese. For them, everything south, south of the Yangtze.


32. Then came the whole series of three-storey cubbyholes. Some mikrokvartiry with separate entrances. Long typical stone huts. On the contrary - mansion.


33. mikrokvartiry look at from another angle. I can not believe that somewhere there is a skyscrapers :) But I must say that everything is very neat, someone hard blyudёt order.


34. strayed across the area with cubicles, then through some small gate is chosen, finally, a normal ordinary street. But here, the city trёhetazhen.


35. Master with various crafts wire. You can bargain a lot cheaper than any inspirational turikovskih type-authentic streets.


36. Here, Ivan tries to negotiate. And by the way. Notice how neatly, even subtly, look shanhayanki (or shanhayki?). And it refers to the different ages, up to grandmothers. Coming from the province is very easy to recognize, they look in a different way - a very, so to speak ... :) hard and just watching, I remembered that, and in St. Petersburg it is very easy to recognize grandmothers, grandmothers and just leningradok from somewhere else. Here in Shanghai as well, they are very blyudut then his features of individuals. Even talking on her, Shanghainese (verbally, of course). Almost all Shanghaians (well under fifty dollars) understand and speak well in classical Mandarin, but there is such a time - newcomers from other regions of China can, and do not understand the spoken language if they speak Shanghainese. In this case it is necessary, or switch to Putonghua, or write characters for a full and accurate understanding.


37. Again, we come close to skyscrapers, from different sides. Let's go right now parallel to the noisy highway Yan'an Road, but not approaching it - here interesting. Again, look how much a taxi here from all machines. A private cars in Shanghai to keep a very expensive state number purchased at auction and stands by itself almost polmashiny. Yes and different categories of rooms, not all numbers can ride every day, there are cheaper - on an even or odd.


38. A little more of an old Shanghai. Yes, here live crowded.


39. On the streets of Shanghai trolley rides. Now Shanghai Network - the world's oldest surviving trolley bus then let back in November 1914 For comparison, in Moscow - in 1933, 19 years later. This copy - combined, rechargeable at bus stops, so it may go some time and under wires.


40. perverted over the Japanese brands in this case - on the Mazda.


41. And behold, the whole block of houses in the old Shanghai-style shikumen. Then - much simplified version, for the poor, but there are also very sophisticated mansions. In particular, then, I will show the same style mansion, where he was the I Congress of the CPC and the 28-year-old Mao drank tea there with other delegates.


42. All right, reached the line North - South, and already there is a new right of Shanghai and the old left behind.


43. Powerful house pre-war period - below the line passing over them. That c'est la vie modern metropolis ...


At the end of our walk. Hope have felt that even the richest city of China - is not only and not so much skyscrapers?

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