Oddly Treat Miuccia Prada, but few on the degree of influence on modern fashion can compare with it. Presented his first collection in 1989, it actually creates fashion 90s and, unlike many other stars of the time, not rested spiritually forever, when these same 90th over. She continues to create collections every season, which at least discussed, and at best look at us with a glossy cover each and every streetstyle-photo. So it was with her stripes, bananas and colorful boas summer 2011, before which stood only the strict purists, it happens now with coats flowered from the collection this summer, from which is simply nowhere to go. That total look Prada with this same coat put on its cover just the first issue of Ukrainian Vogue - as the win-win situation.
Miuccia Prada style consists of two main parts - the vintage and potential commercial hits, creating absolutely recognizable images. This its power and glory. Prada told me that up to 35 years - that is, even at a time when she studied political science, was a member of the Communist Party and fought for women's rights - she and her entire family dressed exclusively in vintage. In her collections is quite obvious she loves and understands the vintage - and it is equally obvious that recently it is particularly interested in the 40th. Them she devoted famous collection Miu Miu autumn 2011, they are also attracted her now. And not the 40s in general, and Paris fashion girls Zazu during the German occupation, which are so hated Monsieur Dior and in defiance of which he created his new look. It is the moment of transition from the military to the 40th New onions and showed us Prada.
Zazous meet New Look - this title can preface the collection of Prada Fall-Winter 2013/14. And it reflects not only its content, but also the shape. Because Prada just joined these two parts in their things. That's from one side to the severe orphan flannel skirt to the knee, and the other - a wide, oblique wedge cut to below the knee, and sometimes even embroidered with sequins and beads. That's sloping shoulders, curvy cuffs, neckline and boat-knit sweaters, like Brigitte Bardot, and here - straight shoulders, baggy jackets, belted strap and wide skirts, just cover the knees, like Michelle Morgan. Cells that were so fond of Zazu, appears not only in dresses, suits and coats, but also on the bulk bags and sandals with thick platform that they liked least. That's bags and shoes, this time explicitly claim to be 100 percent hits - this, of course, not colored boas with tails, but this role may be able to draw. Rounding out the picture of the wide belts in vintage style with thin oval buckles.
This whole concept was invented and built with the obvious wit and with some degree of deconstruction, which, in principle, the Prado is not particularly peculiar, - however, quite a bit designated by the same gusset yes knitted blouses, peering as underwear from under the dress and nothing more. And with characteristic irony glamorous Prades, which is not even clear what more - glamor or irony about it.
In the current collection is a sparkling costumes from crocodile skin, volume chinchilla cuffs, sheer embroidered dress with a zipper and put on top of them mink coat with a collar apache, one to one like Catherine Deneuve in the film Truffaut's "The Last Metro", the effect of which, incidentally, happens in occupied Paris.
This is obviously not the strongest collection of Prada recently and is not the most recognizable - but perhaps the most restrained, most conceptual and most elaborate. More interesting, where Miuccia Prada will roll next season.