During a trip to Northern Norway, the blogger decided to go on their famous fishing. He appealed to the young, but already experienced Norwegian advice and learned fish place, immediately went there.
For advice, we turned to an experienced Norwegian young age, which met at the checkout in Svolvaer. Our interlocutor thought for a moment, threw a gloomy Norwegian sky finger thoughtfully and said :: "Oh! You need to go to O. There you will learn Norwegian real fishing. Just do not forget to buy the hooks. We have, for example, an excellent choice. "And they're not too big?" - We asked, "No, you are on halibuta others do not go."
Å (in Russian is just pronounced O) is on the edge of Lofoten. Any longer - the ocean. About the need to go to the highway E10, which crosses, or rather connects the islands of the archipelago. Concurrently, it is one of the most scenic roads of Europe.
That highway connects the islands - not a figure of speech. It really allows no boats and ferries to reach the most remote corners of the Lofoten. To do this, the road length of three hundred kilometers built almost fifty bridges and tunnels, including two submarines.
In some areas of work still going on. The last five tunnels will be opened next year.
For reference - the entire population of Lofoten is less than 25 thousand people, most of whom live in hamlets and fishing villages scattered around the bays and fjords.
Even taking into account the fact that the meaning of "rollback" the Norwegians unfamiliar, E10 has cost a pretty penny. But the road - it's one of those things where the Norwegians do not save. Here are confident that revenues from oil and gas should first invest in infrastructure that will serve many generations. Besides linking Lofoten to the mainland, attracted by the Norwegians in the region of hundreds of thousands of tourists.
We emerge from the last tunnel, and we point A. This is an extreme point of the region, which can be reached by car - only on the sea.
In fact Å - it's a few dozen fishing lodges - Rohrbach, clinging to the rocks.
When Lofoten influx of tourists, the local had a bit to make room. However, they are not very upset.
The former barracks turned into a decent mini-hotels and restaurants. Good food, hot water, wi-fi - what else does a man who climbed to the edge of the world?
Stupid question. Of course, fish.
The first thing we saw on arrival, this cheerful Germans unloaded from boats heaviest box with a catch. We immediately rushed to remove them, but we look condescending. "Is it a fish. That's right, nothing. This is real fish:
Halibut, it is halibut. Caught, of course, Russian - all the biggest fish here goes to our.
After such examples remain on the land at least five minutes a crime. We were introduced to Captain Fred - in the next couple of hours he had to show us a master class Norwegian fishing.
As it turned out to catch a halibut weighing a hundredweight, need little. The first boat.
Secondly, short spinning multiplier reel with a powerful, durable braided fishing line, capable of withstanding the Titanic, if you accidentally snagged it from the bottom, and a hefty spoon weighing about half a kilo.
Thirdly, in fact, the sea.
Within a few minutes on the rapidly disappearing astern.
On the way Fred introduces us to the geography.
- That the island called Verёy the left, to the right of his island Mosca. And more to the right - Maelstrom.
- Is that right?
- Well, Maelstrom, Maelstrom. Whirlpool, you did not hear about it?
- Uh heard. And even read. And you can question?
- Of course.
- You know, we, of course, the sea beginners ... But something tells us that the course we are now go right into it, in the maelstrom.
- That's right.
- But ... why?
- There's a better biting.
After the dialogue was a bit uncomfortable. On the one hand, our captain was sure that does everything right. On the other - in the head very inappropriately surfaced unforgettable line of Edgar Allan Poe about the "jaws of monstrous funnel, whose interior, as far as the eye could measure it is smooth and shiny, and the agate-black water wall inclined to the horizon approximately at an angle of forty-five degrees; This water wall with stunning swiftness revolved its convex slope, and sends the winds terrifying cries, not a cry, not a roar ... ".
On medieval maps of the place depicted very clearly. But the most powerful figure turned out at Maelstrom illustrator By Harry Clarke. As a child I thought that Clark portrayed the whirlpool with nature.
There was no doubt - we are exactly where thousands of ships were lost and only survived by a miracle "Nautilus" Captain Nemo. Besides Fred readily confirmed - yes, this rock in front of us - the same Bearer clouds Helseggen, from the top of which the hero is led your imaginary story about the worst place in the world.
Skipper as he could, comforted us, assuring that the Maelstrom in our time is not as frisky as in the legendary years. Now insidious depths lost only 3-4 boats with tourists during the season. Yes, and it was mostly Japanese. In addition, Fred has no plans to approach the crater whirlpool closer than a kilometer, so afraid, we absolutely do not need. In response, we offered not to approach closer than five, because we all know: the blogger - is the same as the Japanese, but even more unfortunate. After a brief dispute agreed on three.
Finally, cautiously peering into the horizon, have started fishing.
The technique of catching mastered in minutes. In a prospective area of the boat is placed in the drift, then the lure sinks almost to the bottom and begins wiring - actively working with spinning bait "step" raise by 5-7 meters and lowered again. Wait typically accounts for long - should blow rod is bent in an arc ...
and soon under the boat, an object of hunting
... Trehkilogrammovaya cod
But it is certainly not our size - let go
And here is a worthy client - Side.
The place was catching capacity - in the cockpit without ceasing sonar beep, indicating that schools of fish below us. Fishing has become a "thrown-pulls." If desired, it would be possible for an hour to fill a few boxes. But we do not povezёm fish home, so catch the fun and let go. On the shore we take a few larger side for a restaurant. But still, it turns out that in less than two hours, including the road to catch a few tens of kilograms.
But in general the principle of "catch and release" fishing in the Norwegian sea does not apply. They come here just for fish and empty-handed no returns.
Even bad weather no hindrance successful fishing. But quite the contrary. Once we return to Å Rorbuer, as the loaded oblazhnoy the rain will not stop until the morning. But when we went out for breakfast, we realized why the berth has a powerful winch.
That night, someone still caught our big fish.
Still, true sages of the past: Do you want to feed a man once - give him a fish. Do you want to turn it into a psycho with a fishing rod - teach him to fish.