Four days on Solovki (14 photos)

Remember the theme of Solovki in the 500 ruble banknote?

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The most difficult thing - to choose where to begin the story of the trip. To do so: first show Solovki and the people I met, and then talk about how we went to look at the beluga whales, and after that - the heaviest, about the camp. However, the camp at Solovki due almost everything.

Solovki, three in the morning | View of the monastery from the Holy Lake





From Arkhangelsk to Solovki old flying AN-24. On this flight, passengers carry luggage to the aircraft themselves, do it, and will ship in the cabin of an airliner. In addition to our group of journalists and environmentalists from IFAW to Solovki flew tourists, locals - made twenty-eight years ago, "Anton" was packed almost to capacity.



Under the wing of the plane swept numerous branches of the Northern Dvina decked floats on water. I expected that the flight at an altitude of three thousand meters will make it possible to see the northern land, but exactly on the White Sea, we put in a solid "milk" and the very earth seemed only when next to my porthole tumbled landing gear and we went down to the metal comb runway airport in Solovki.



The flight attendant named Jeanne said that she was born in Arkhangelsk, the color of her hair natural and strictly forbidden to take photographs on board. "Until the withdrawal of photographic equipment."



Baggage claim at airport Solovetsky Islands on board made this cute yellow truck. For this he leaves the suitcases in the back of the net fence enclosing the tarmac, passengers and surround it on all sides, looking out for your luggage.



As long as we got our backpacks and bags in the loudspeaker announced the landing on the flight to Arkhangelsk, to the mainland.



I am lucky: in Agra from the window of my room could see the Taj Mahal - the Solovki in the window of my room at the "Shelter" came out exactly the monastery.



Time we had a little, and on the same day on a boat Vladimir Danilovich, we went to see the remarkable hydraulic engineering construction - the dam, connecting the Big Solovetsky Island and the island Muksalma.

The Strait Southern Iron Gate begins construction Cyclopean boulder dam. Mnogopudovye stones processed here, on the southwest coast Muksalma. Preparatory work was carried out in a few years when Archimandrite Porphyry (Karabineviche), the very same building occupied year period [8] in 1866 (29 of the sheet 1 .; 25, p. 175). * In addition to staff and monks at the dam construction work "for hire, from the monastery to 400 people zyryan" (30, p.21). The work was conducted under the leadership of the peasant Kholmogorsky County Fedor Sosnina (after vows in 1867 - a monk Teoctist) (Monastic economy Muksalma. Essays on the life and history)

Saint Zosima, one of the founders of the monastery on the Solovki, strictly forbade the presence of a cattle farm near the residence of the monks, so the monastery herd has been removed as far as possible - on Muksalma. The dam served as a transport thread connecting the two farms.

* Employees - employees who worked on some free for the needs of the monastery.



All the time spent in Solovki, never ceased to be surprised the results of labor invested in the land. These countless canals dug from one lake to another, sluices, piers, dams are impressive.

"We must do justice to the Solovetsky monks, they do eat bread in the sweat of his brow. Monk, for example, the gardener his work sets an example of labor: it is not limited to the role of observer, but he puts his hands to work, busy in the mud, and in the end will do more than any Bogomolets. Since they are everywhere. Therefore, their economy flourish and the monastery, apart from the ascetic values, has all the hallmarks of a good working community "(Vl. Nemirovich-Danchenko, the end of the XIX century.)



"Suddenly, from the forest couple seemed." A couple of locals came out wrong step out of the bushes and sat down in the boat. Sanya appeared witty guy, and despite the difficult physical condition of his body, we had talked about that, about this. We parted almost friends. Guys usually takes for these places of all - collect seaweed.



Twenty-five years goes to the White Sea Vladimir Danilovich.



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The entire first day incessantly pouring rain, we were soaked to the skin and pretty cold. In addition, it was found that in Solovki no mosquitoes at all. They are replaced by huge flying beasts that stuck to you from head to toe and eating, eating alive, in spite of the repellents and clothing.

He summarized and "Megaphone" - I wanted to put in a blog a few photos, but it turned out that my ticket does not allow use of GPRS in roaming. I remember that mentally sent a beam of hatred that the mobile phone company and went to bed.

To be continued.



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