Story about a trip to the Russian North

The story of the expedition participants of the project "Common Cause. Revival of wooden churches of the North "on a trip to amazing places.

66 photos will be

Lyricist: Dmitry Kharitonov, a volunteer OD
Picture: members of the expedition "neck of»


For the believer, it is clear that accidents do not happen in life. Therefore, all seemingly unusual events, meetings and business, to which we were involved in the expedition to the North neck of 2013, easily find their explanation. To all God's providence. But first things first.

It's amazing how you can think that it was this summer I am having plans to go to some monastery, the monastery for a week or two - to work for the glory of God, spend time with the benefit of the soul. Never imagined how it all happens. Whom should I contact? Where to go? What to take with? Where to live? What is there to do? Questions began to pester the thought of collaboration. And then I come across in the network a call for volunteers in the "Common Cause" expedition in the summer of 2013. Coincidence? Maybe, maybe ...


A few days later, I sent the questionnaire, we met with Ilya - coordinator of the project in the future commander of the expedition. Begin collecting treks through the grocery shopping and tourist equipment, training clothes and personal protective equipment (masks come in handy in the village Tineve).

When we took a train ticket from Moscow to Arkhangelsk and we got the car number 13 (another coincidence?) - Is, of course, was seen as a good sign. And, as it turned out, for good reason. In fact, these routine, everyday hectic and preddorozhnye cares and troubles, ranging from sleeping bags and rubber boots, ending tickets can also be pleasant and helpful.


Backpacks finally collected. August 11. Moscow. Yaroslavsky Station. The train departs at 10:05. It so happened that tickets for the 13th car, which was very comfortable and stocked with the latest technology, were not at all - in part of our group had to go, and in the 17th. As the "7" and "17" - the number of very similar, different tools and equipment to the North had to take a lot, but time is running out, the male part of our team had to run on the platform between with 3 cars, №№ 7, 13 and 17. And this, too, was its meaning: we had no choice - began to make common cause. Within minutes of loading all of us managed to catch the fancy of Paul - one commander Elias. Flank jokes, jokes, stories, optimism and cheerfulness will charge us during the entire expedition.


Along the way, which, of course, can not do without road sandwiches, we are more intimately familiar, assign responsibilities. Ilya has outlined a plan we work in the countryside Okulovskaya - in the church Athanasius and Cyril and Tineve - in the chapel of the Holy Trinity. In addition, it has become aware of some changes in the routes and places of our stay: in Karpogory now planned to not stop at the hotel, as originally conceived, and on the courtyard of St. Artemievo Verkolsky monastery, his father Art, which is associated with our commander. "Here it is, and everything was arranged. So much for the monastery, "- I thought then. This once again to the question about accidents.

Looking at the beauty coming through the windows of the car, with Vsevolod unanimously agreed that the northern sky - not such as, for example, in the Kursk region. The sky above the Arkhangelsk region, in contrast to the southern, not domed and flat, smooth, smooth, smooth, smooth and endless, merges with the ground somewhere beyond the horizon. This is by no incomparable, indescribable beauty.








The train arrived at 6:35, at 7:05 surrendered luggage storage. At the beginning of the expedition to the loading and unloading even goes a bit too much time to an end, the feelings, became controlled for 5 minutes, although the goods have not diminished. The city met us cloudy weather, so the train Ilya More prudently gave the command to get all of the backpack and take with raincoats and warm clothes. "You're not plain, the climate is different," - says then stitch Vysotsky. But, I must say that in our group were generally people experienced, seasoned. So some special domestic problems, thank God, during the expedition did not arise. Novice hikers were only Natasha and Olga, but all of them well guarded and well maintained throughout and tried to help the girls were strongly satisfied with everything. Neck of 2013 became their first expedition. But it is unlikely to be the last.


After the meal we went back to the station square, where a shuttle bus to the museum of wooden architecture in the open air "Small Karelians", which also means in our cultural program. Waiting for the next flight, we went to the stalls and shops - watch souvenirs, household stuff on the road, and Pasha - and change shoes. Natasha was already well ahead in the museum "Small Karelians" and so immediately after breakfast went to visit his friend arhangelogorodku and buy a very necessary thing in the campaign - povarёshku and delicious pies us a train to Karpogory.


Around noon, we were at the museum "Small Karelians". There we were waiting Svetlana and Viktor Yushchenko - after breakfast they left early. Svetlana - artist, she became a tour guide for us and told a lot of interesting things about the museum, its history, one of its founders BV Gnedovsky, other painters who came to the North - Korovin, Serov, Nesterov. All were simply amazed grandeur, simplicity and harsh, austere beauty of wooden houses, churches, chapels, mills, barns. We moved on to the construction of buildings, open-mouthed - such a strong impression on our wooden architecture of the North. We went into the house, where we were met by an employee-privechali museum in historic costumes. They showed the interior of log cabins: oven, furniture, kitchen utensils. And in one of the buildings - the former inn or tavern - we were lucky to see an exhibition of ancient land vehicles. A variety of sled runners looked really as true works of art. Something very vaguely like I experienced only in the tank museum in Kubinka.

It seemed as if we were in a fairy tale. The sight and smell of wood in combination with unimaginable northern sky and green pine trees left an indelible mark in our memory.


We went to the museum very quickly, but those few hours was enough to impressions were probably for life. Seen, as they say, the wonders of technology, but here - is!

On the way back to Arkhangelsk on the bus, and then a train to Karpogory I kept thinking that is so hooked on this wonderful unusual phenomenon - Russian wooden architecture. Began to recall those places that are also at one time touched something in my soul, in my heart, one way or another influenced my perception of the world: the castles and palaces of Russia and Europe, monasteries, temples, landscapes Finland, Black Sea, Crimea, Seliger, forest and river Moscow and Tver regions, steppes Chernozemya ... And I realized that nowhere else in these wooden masterpieces not seen such a good constructive, peaceful unification of man and nature. For example, the castle (in Denmark or the Czech Republic) or the same Notre Dame Cathedral. This is also the fruit of the labor of man, great work, heavy, but work is quite different, aggressive, transformed, as if infringes nature. Working with wood - this is the work of nature, but an instrument of this work is not an ax, not the bit, not a hammer, and the man himself, the whole man - his whole mind and his whole body. After visiting the "Small Korel" was an instant sensation of how wise and generous Creator and what a beautiful life can be ours, if you always see it as God's providence and follow it.


In the museum we were joined by the 13th member of our expedition - Yaroslav - he had come to Arkhangelsk plane, now the whole group was assembled. 13th wagon, 13 participants ... Everything chance? .. Who knows ...
Upon his return to Arkhangelsk Ilya instructed men to rebuy some of the inventory and the girls - tea, a gift to his father Artem. After completing these tasks went to the station to the storage room. Things to Karpogory train already loaded faster: there are skill, the group becomes cohesive after each work done together.

The car, which drove up Karpogory was already posurovee than 13th in Moscow, but we were very lucky with the conductor - Darina. Very smiling and friendly girl. She provided us with tea smoothly, with whom the whole team was eating Natasha bought cakes. From local air and impressions received in the "Small Korely" assimilated all this very well. At the entrance to the destination Darin asked us to give feedback about the trip, and Vsevolod wrote in many sincere warm words. In our neighboring coupe rode three small children with their parents. And the smallest of them - Stas - road bore very restless. So here had to get down to business volunteers. Thanks a toy dinosaur that Ksenia bought at the train station in Arkhangelsk (note another coincidence) dolls out of towels related Masha, affection and kind words Natasha and Oli few hours in the car was still relatively quiet.


From the station went on the courtyard of St. Artemievo Verkolsky monastery. Despite some fatigue, it was very interesting to see the life, the life and service of the clergy in the North. On the way to the car, I looked out the window at modestly huts, shtaketnichki and thought, how many has changed here since, as of Verkola, where there was a military unit, the crawler tractor in Karpogory came dancing grandfather, then a young lieutenant, and his colleagues .

Father Artemy greeted us very warmly, helped unload the bags and after the prayer, invited to supper. Ended the evening of the 12th of very interesting stories about the nature of the priest of the North, mosses, mushrooms and berries, about the monastery's farm, horses and steers on sychonke Kesh, another monastery inhabitants, who, in the words of the priest, hard "shpatlyuet" wall and designated him little room floor. We have heard from the father and the new, special northern, buzzwords. For example, "get oneself" - that is to look after the cattle, to engage in other economic affairs. Here every day, that we lived in tents in the village, and I remembered that little word.






Artemy father told us a little about the Life of the Holy Art, namesake monastery. Pravednyik Artem was born in 1532 in Verkola, a pious peasant family. Noted for his gentleness, obedience and diligence, since five years began to shun children's games and help their parents at work. When Artemy was 13 years old, he and his father harrowed land in the field, suddenly the clouds gathered, and the storm began, during which a lightning strike killed the boy. Art by villagers superstition felt his death was God's punishment for the sins of some secret, so his body and left neotpetym nepogrebёnnym. He was put in a vacuum in a pine forest on top of the ground, covered with birch bark and twigs. So it lay 28 years, forgotten by all, until it accidentally found a clergyman of the local church. Remains of Artemia were completely incorruptible. The body was taken to the village, and in the future from the relics were healed many people.

We midnight, full of impressions, went to their cells.
The next morning, the 13th, we had breakfast, then went to the church where Father Artemy conducted a prayer service with Akathist before the icon of Saint Nicholas. This icon, as we know, the miraculous. When she was found, she was all black and tarnished, and then samovozzolotilsya salary. How beautiful and gracious service in a wooden temple! The smell of incense, hewn logs, sunlight, reflections on the gilded icons and utensils - everything is so pleasing to the eye and soul, that it seemed a little bit more - and be able to overcome the force of gravity and at least a couple of inches closer to Heaven. After the service, we in turn were applied to the image, and my father gave each a small icon on the road, sprinkled with holy water and blessed. It became easy, fun, joy and calm the soul. We really felt Grace.


By 9:40 vans arrived, which was to go to the ferry across the river Pinega. We quickly boarded, said goodbye to the priest and in good spirits hit the road. But for almost an hour to overcome the first test: one car struck the wheel. We got out of the car, and while our drivers patched holes in the lid, wandered a little stretch their legs and look around. Meet our column was moving carriage. Local women were returning from the forest with tueskami full of trophies peaceful hunting. Especially beautifully looked Red Dog, who also sat on the cart. Masha decided to feed the horse, but apparently, the grass was so delicious that hit the hand of the girl. Ilya Mary promptly had the necessary medical care. It always happens - rarely a good thing, do without temptations. In the end, it's all in order: tire taped, bandaged hand. The village of Sosnovka already reached without incident. Next on the ferry had to force a crossing. We lined up the chain and tossed things straight from the trunk to the deck. And on the other side we were waiting for UAZ, which came to meet us from Okulovskaya. Place all sixteen people, considering our drivers and the son of one of them - Grisha, as they say, in close quarters, but not mad. The boy had to get on the gearbox, because on one seat with a two-meter Pasha was really quite uncomfortable. And the beginning of a trial on the roads of the North.


Bridge on the "good" part of the road. The road becomes more interesting)


If the primer to Sosnovka were still signs, sometimes even nailed to the pines, the road to Okulovskaya are merely exemplary direction of motion. Puddles, sometimes rotten log bridges, sand and Pasha constantly popping unobstructed front door. Romance! Almost 200 km or 3, 5:00 pure pleasure! On this trip, I could not ask! Along the way, of course, makes technical stops, during which it was, among other things, gather up a number of mushrooms that we ate soup and potatoes with them even two or three days. Generally interested in the North to go for mushrooms - 5 minutes in the forest, and already "full box". Whether business in Moscow: fewer forests, people and harmful environmental factors more and more. Excitement! Fight! And in the North themselves in basket jump. At 15:35 drove North village where take pictures on the background of half-rotten equipment: boats, motor boats, tractors. "Great and rich land of ours, and order ..." - as there is in the annals of that? Nothing nothing. Razgrebёm. Break through! "For far" - graced us with the driver Yuri.

Posted in [mergetime] 1379402114 [/ mergetime]
At 16:14 arrived at the scene. Viktor Yushchenko and Svetlana went to him. Their house - in the village of New items - is very close to Okulovskaya. At the confluence of the neck and Pinegi is a whole rural agglomeration, which consists of several settlements located very close to each other. Admiring the local scenery, which gave a special flavor hanging wooden bridge, we have begun to install the tents. The matter of the dispute, helped each other. Less than an hour already got all the living area. And then over our camp lit up already just two of the rainbow! One above the other! Once, at the command of Elijah, we solve the pressing domestic issues. Went to the village: the well to fetch water, to the grocery store, in the yards of the building and garden equipment. The locals welcomed us openly, kindness, without hostility. This was highlighted when the camp from the village returned Natasha and Olga. And the two little girls were able to drag so much! Scythes, shovels, buckets and bags with cucumbers, greens, cabbage. In the evening, read the rules, zagovlyalis at Dormition Fast remaining, more distant bought in Moscow, sausage and generously treated to local Bobikov condensed milk.


14th got up early. Tested on the skin of the neck and Voditsa, cheerful, tasty breakfast cereal, cooked by our economic girls. Then, laden tool, went to the opposite shore, toward the temple of Athanasius and Cyril, who is the object of our expedition. Were just on that same suspension bridge yesterday so we vending. But watch something - this one, and go, but still laden - is another matter. Especially in the middle of the bridge where the railing do not reach to the knees. I remembered the story about walking on the waters of the Scriptures. "We have the same father, and blessed, and gave an icon of Saint Nicholas and the boys certainly help, if that. I will not doubt, and that is exactly start to sink, as Simon Peter. Forward! "- I decided. Moved successfully. And then it all the time and went on the footbridge, with molitovkoy Saint Nicholas or Vysotsky's songs about the tightrope walker who "really need to go through four quarters of the way."








Beauty! Nature!







Eternal memory!

Thanks you!

On 19 August.

Thank God for everything!




He was 30 years old.

Unlikely. Possible.

Take a look around!



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