Multi-colored capital of Chukotka

Now, to be honest, for those who have never seen and not really thought about it. How do you imagine Anadyr. The capital of Chukotka. Far North-East of Russia. Personally, I have the following picture - permafrost, wild cold, deer, Ends of the Earth, dullness, poverty. Over the first four points - most likely it is. Not the tropics. But the rest ... I did not expect. Whether Roman Arkadievich grayish was during the visits, whether before him rasstaralis, but the town something perky!


As the capital of Chukotka lies in the border area, there is not idle curiosity get. Immediately after landing in interior guards come and check the availability of properly executed documents that give the right to stay in Anadyr. There's even a detail: travel documents to indicate the number of the passport the traveler, not just the name.

Anadyr airport passenger terminal is relatively small, but quite modern and very neat and tidy. There is even a teletrap, and in fact deprived of the luxury and the main airport of the Far East - the Khabarovsk! However, in practice, in Anadyr much more likely to use apron buses.
In general, air transport means for Chukotka much more ground. Virtually all transportation, including local, implemented or by sea or by air. The reason is simple - the specifics of climate and infrastructure. There is absolutely no economic reason to build and operate a full-fledged road and rail network at very low numbers (50, 5 thousand.) And a negligible population density (0, 07 persons per square kilometer) in effect in arctic conditions.

From the city airport is separated by a narrow neck of the Gulf of Anadyr. Hard to say what caused such a decision. Probably at a location directly to the territory of the city simply can not find a suitable flat platform.
Between the Anadyr and air gates in the summer ferries ply. Such is the "Storm" takes on its deck for up to four cars. A trip to the route minibus taxi from the airport to anywhere in the city costs about a thousand rubles per person, this price is already on the crossing. All the way to the city is just over an hour, with about twenty-five minutes of them out on the water segment.



5 Although the Anadyr was founded in 1889, today it is mainly built up panel and block five-story building of Soviet times.

All the houses are on the deeply driven into the permafrost stilts and are predominantly bright color. It is with delight tourists willing to admire the beauty of the harsh subarctic; Those who spend most of the year, tired of dull paintings of nature and the lack of a full vegetation. Even lying on a far more southern latitudes of Scandinavian towns and then try to paint the facades in bright colors, trying to compensate for their lack of a concise natural landscape.

This area on the shore of Anadyr is the name of Lenin. Right on it, you can see the monument to the patron saint of sailors Saint Nicholas set, as you might guess, much later than the area got its name - in 2004. Behind it you can see the building of the Museum Center "Chukotka Heritage", to which I will return in the second part of this album. On the left stands the Cathedral of the Holy Trinity.

It is the largest wooden churches built in the permafrost zone. Of course, this cathedral also stands on stilts (according to other sources, just beneath the artificially frozen soil), as well as all the buildings in the city. Its height is 25 meters. Also, it is the only cathedral in Chukotka.

Anadyr seaport serves not only to receive goods with the "Great Land", it is also based fishing vessels.

Turned into a bar "Caravel" decommissioned boat on one of the few streets in Anadyr.

Monument to the fallen freedom fighters. I understand that we are talking about the events of 1920, when in Chukotka was temporarily dropped the Soviet regime. Of course, a monument dedicated to the victims in this case the Bolsheviks.
General theme of the Civil War in the Far East, especially on his own distant suburbs, is quite interesting. Strictly speaking, the de facto hostilities have ended here later than assumed. Due to the remoteness of the region, poorly developed communications and the small number of inhabitants of even small groups (or gang - as you prefer) is a fairly formidable force and it could be great to influence the situation in general. Again, very close - across the Bering Strait - was US Alaska.
It is worth to note that the Anadyr was founded by decree of Alexander III, because of the threat of expansion of the United States. Initially, the administrative center of the newly formed Anadyr neighborhood was named New Mariinsky post.

Monument to the famous writer Yuri Chukchi Rytkheu (1930-2008).

In addition to coal-fired CHP plants in Anadyr there is also a backup central hot water boiler. For her, held a pipeline from the local gas field. Given the climate, backup heat source here is not a luxury.
Even in the height of summer polar day in Anadyr cool - just above ten degrees. In winter, however, is not as cold as in the depths of Chukotka - saves the proximity of the sea. However, and here frosts of minus forty.

As lay pipes in permafrost can not be, all communications are on the surface, adding up to a bizarre geometric patterns.

New buildings in Anadyr bit, but sometimes they are built of imported wood (timber in Chukotka is simply no).
Walls, as can be seen, does double - to air layer is better to store the heat.
All exterior doors, by the way, open inward, contrary to the usual requirements of fire safety. The logic is simple - good snow can fall asleep as input, without hydraulic jack inside the house door to the outside is simply not open.

Pipes often protect such dampers, crossed with a weather vane - thus protect against wind and snow drawn by them. Anadyr wind is usually very strong - they have no natural obstacles.


Even this compact and small town has a well-developed service taxi. Many machines are equipped with taximeter, the drivers returned to the passenger receipt. Travel within the city (and more expensive, in fact, no) cost 50 rubles per passenger.
In the car park of Anadyr, as in other parts of the Far East, is dominated by a large margin used "Japanese».

In Anadyr there is even a bus route, and the journey it is free.
In appearance the bus stop is easy to judge that nothing human inhabitants of Chukotka capital is alien, alas, including cravings for vandalism.

Anadyr radio. "Snowstorm" - very original and fresh))

Supermarket. Food prices in Anadyr space is to be expected. But even they are divided into prices navigation season and winter. The latter, of course, even higher.