Rest in Belarusian: the most beautiful lake country

An elderly man in a bright orange shirt holding a pair of binoculars and carefully inspects 2, 24 square meters. km of his happiness. On the other side, right in front of us today a deserted beach pension BC. That's where he once pulled from the water two drunken blockheads. They fished in the lake 19-kilogram pike and did not want to give up. And here shows Anatoly, the deepest place - more than 15 meters where the camera was immersed guys with Discovery. Rescue gives us binoculars we look at perfect blue and we see that in the depth of SVITYAZ as melted ghost, reflected the country.

Only 160 kilometers away from Minsk - can safely be reached in two hours. The perpetuation of the Adam Mickiewicz Svityaz lake located on the border of Novogrudok and Karelichi areas. At the lake karst origin, it is declared ecological reserves, and protects it from the outside world kilometer wall of the forest. For men, however, is not a barrier.

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June, weekday. On the main beach, located along the route Novogrudok - Baranovichi, not crowded. We specifically did not come here on a Sunday primetime. The smoke from the grill, roaring drunk and cackling recorders did not want to lose sight of the solemnity of the local nature.

- At the weekend, maybe a couple of thousand people were. In a little longer to come - says the guard, head of paid parking.

An hour here take 5,000 rubles. There is also free parking, but soon, said the superintendent, they will not. Obtain a permit. The lake can make money - why they do not take from the people. But parking fees - it is also a deterrent factor which Svitiaz must ... save.

Fooling around the circumference of the lake can be two hours. We walk along the water's edge and listen to what noisy giant oaks. They have seen a lot, but are willing to tell the only reason. Adam Mickiewicz oaks whispered about Svitiaz once wealthy city, which turned into a lake, unwilling to surrender to the Russian Tsar.

Much water has flowed under the bridge since then. Novogrudok became an ordinary district center, and almost Svitiaz again not ruined - now the rulers and owners skewers bottles. In the early 2000s, the lake was transformed into a landfill is not coping with the increased anthropogenic load tremendously. During the weekend, according to various estimates, it rested on its banks to 15-20 thousand. Descendants of Tugan and Mindaugas. Cars were parked in rows along the forest. Svitiaz transformed in Crimea - drunken stuffy little world filled with bodies and umbrellas. Surprisingly, as the lake again collapsed to the ground.

But today, here expanse. The wind sweeps over the lake bowl, splashing in the water Girls-Svityazanka. Man adjusts melting and posing for a photograph. Man is pumped mattress - Now float. The kiosk selling kebabs on capital cost. 35 thousand. Per 100 grams - a plague on your house!





Off the coast there are several rows of containers for different types of garbage. Almost as in the EU. Under the birch perched toilet. It is round hole, the birthplace of her senses. Willy-nilly, we compare with Svitiaz Naroch, Braslav Lakes, trying to rank tourist oases of the country according to their degree of abstraction from the scoop.






Anatoly responsible for the safety of bathers, its lake puts on the first place.

- One pair arrived from Minsk. All with a rash on the hands. I ask: what is it? They say that in Naroch bought. And we have the purest water. Living - and for the joints, and skin and hair. And what are fishing!

- Would Svitiaz gem if not for lack of culture - continues our source. - Musorok enough, but throw the bags under his feet. He drank, threw plastmashku nearby. You approach this - send three letters.

If not stinking hole in the floor toilet, we would say confidently: Svitiaz still trying to get rid of the mental legacy era collective farms. On the road near the lake for many years was a freak restaurant, abandoned not working. And now it is not, the entrepreneur bought the land and plans to put a tourist complex here. On the 30 small beds, a dining and entertainment. If the complex appears, it will light the area civilization and service. As long stay in the area of ​​the reservoir is almost nowhere.

As an option - to look into the boarding house, owned by the Belarusian Railways. The resort is protected by a sergeant, who, though not too offended, we have to cheat. The territory is small, not so long ago repaired. The lady at the reception trying to find out what it would cost here overnight. Lady reading a newspaper with jokes, we have prevented it.

- 405 thousand. For a place in a double room - lazily she says. - The room has a comfortable - TV and refrigerator.

That is, the number of $ 80 will be released. But with the end of June, and then in July of no available spaces. In the neighboring farmsteads also take almost $ 100 a night for the house, but they are crammed with the eyeballs. It turns out, for the European Svitiaz, ennobled rest is not intended. Do not jump to the conclusion that it is bad.




To hell with it, with the hotel. The lake is reflected not only oaks and legends, but also Belarus, with its culture and lifestyle of the past 20 years, independent. Vacationers show photo: guys cook barbecue right on the beach, and the smoke and the ashes fly on children and women. "Well, do not trash it? Could not move aside? Why is this allowed? "- People swear.


Other Belarusians complain on the forums that SVITYAZ recently and too many prohibitions. Ecology rides for parking. Not allowed to put a tent on the beach. Few cafes, small service. Vodka is not for sale! We also love phnut local authorities, but in this case, have to recognize the existence of a paradox. The worse will be equipped Svitiaz the less will be coming here lumpen, the better for its future.

At the lake we were looking not only profit, but also hope. And, in addition to the stunning nature, it found. Svityaz, said in all encyclopedias, it is unique in that there are relict lobelia dortmanna Naiad and flexible. In this list you can safely make one more item: the banks appeared on the local cheburek savior.

Close to the Old Passat is a tent outside the tent - the old van. It is equipped with a kitchen. The tent hosts Petrovna - so everyone calls her. Petrovna SVITYAZ 11 years and says that the lake itself does not separate. It is like an oak tree, like a wave.

- I make pasties and bertuchi - says P. us surprised. - Individual entrepreneur! I have a small coin. Grandchildren to school can collect. Over the past season on a good knitting machines worked.

Where have you seen that the area of ​​the Belarusian holiday to the service, and especially public catering allowed private traders? Where to watch the executive committee? Why miss raipo?

- Raipo work here nevygodgo - explains Petrovna. - The season is too short. They need to bring a car to hire movers, pay people salaries. And in August, holidaymakers will be gone. I'm probably the only one in Novogrudok, where so runs allowed. I do not brag, God forbid, but my pasties in Minsk specially bought when going back. Huge queues at the weekend. I came out of the car, reeling from exhaustion. The authorities acknowledged: quality pasties. And it was good. Now I plan to cook dumplings, rice, chicken kebab. In general, I am from Almaty, she moved with her husband in Belarus 20 years ago.



- Normally you can live in Belarus, not lazy, - says the woman. - I have a country house, 50 acres of land. Why not live? Everything grows: the cucumbers, and apples. Only deal. And if someone does not want to work, only to whine. I have this approach: every day woke up - and go do something. In winter, we carry on the organizations cakes. Download to Passat and are taking - snapped on the fly.

- Why are you here this one? Why do other lazy?

- How should I know!

P. distracted by the girls who do the order.

- Do not believe it: all the 11 years that I have been working here since the lake and do not buy, - he says goodbye. - I have a special relationship SVITYAZ. Pagan. I did not want something, the lake defile. It gives me a penny, I give my family earnings.

What do you see, if you look long into the bowl of the lake symbol? Losing culture of the people? Officials who are unable to build and preserve what got nothing? Stunted market forces alone have managed to Kazakhs cheburek? We spotted 12 000-year heritage of Belarus that all this fuss, and we, stupid survive.

Kachan Alexander, director of the National Landscape Reserve "Sveetyaz»:

- Up to 10 thousand. Man in fine days we have accumulated. Load exceeds allowable several times. What to do? Restrict access of people can only be the introduction of fees. In another way, we can not do it. Only the paid services. Our focus right now is this: pick up at the Ministry of Transport of the parking lot, we make them pay, in order to limit the number of cars.

In the past year, we have streamlined the situation a little on one side coast - central. There was a problem Party - Arrivals from Karelichi area. There is a problem. We have not been able to reach yet. The land allocated for the construction of parking, but because of lack of funds to build it could not. When close the entrance on the side, then we put things in relative order. Take also the territory of about three hectares, the construction of the tent camp. We are building a children's eco-entertainment center. Infrastructure SVITYAZ will develop.






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