Dahab - a small Egyptian town.

Dahab - a small Egyptian town. Favorite vacation spot: divers, freedivers, yogis, wind and kite surfers.

God did not gave me an outstanding literary talent, so I publish an article author Gucci, published in 2005 in one of the fan sites this place. In my opinion this is the most successful work written about this wonderful town. I, in turn, add to this topic with their photographs and a few comments to them.
So there you go!

Jeep without doors and windows of the Second World War, leaping Bibikov way through a herd of goats grazing peacefully right on the roadway.

Camel for cemented crooked fence thoughtfully chewing a cardboard box. Two black-eyed little curly girl enthusiastically digging in a garbage container and joyfully shout passing by Europeans «Hello!». At the entrance to Camp painty Rastamanskaya pictures on concrete Pristupko sleeping peacefully Bedouin sandals under his head. Wind is the square packages of potato chips and a plastic bottle of mineral water Barakka, which in Arabic means "blessing»


Goats eat.


You - in Dahab, in the Old City; in one of the strangest places on earth. A small Bedouin village in the south of the Sinai Peninsula, on the one hand, surrounded by mountains, on the other - almost slips into the Red Sea - a truly blessed place for the freestyle traveler and a nightmare for the tourist who is used to the system all inclusive, and rest in silicone Hurghada and Sharm-El -Sheyhe. The tiny Dahab hotels flows from the tap salt water, on unoccupied beach sun loungers peacefully recline hefty mutts, and crowding each other on the waterfront cafes instead of gas heaters during the cold season bonfires, around which are heated in the evening skinny and big-eared Egyptian cat. These cats are very quickly be on your lap as soon as the waiter put a plate in front of you with a kebab or fried fish. Adherents of European standards, abandoning kebab, running in the lagoon, located five kilometers from the old town: typical tourist reservation with Hilton and Swissotel Innami collected in the image of the children's designer, is ready to offer a comforting alternative holiday template "chaise lounge-cocktail pool-skating cheesecake "to all those who came to Dahab by mistake. This is the traveler chooses the Old City, because this is where you can meet the most unimaginable representatives errant mankind: take a ride on a bicycle from Bern to Nakhodka, traveled hitchhiking the entire African continent, trying to cross on a surfboard Atlantic Ocean or living alone for over a year in the distant taiga. Local kote, which there darkness tmuschaya!

More kote!

Grilled sea yummy

Otelchik on the waterfront in the Old Town

Even 10-15 years ago, Dahab was a multi-national transit point between Africa and the Middle East: here freestyle travelers share information about routes, we bought an old Bedouin on the beach grass on the dollar for a glass, and the fishermen - lobsters, which were then not much more expensive; We rested a few days in Dahab and then off again. Since then, the government has put a lot of effort to ennoble Bedouin village: Santa with a bag of marijuana disappeared, after it fell into oblivion and cheap lobsters, the free circulation of drugs to an end waterfront tiled everywhere conducted electricity. However, the Old Town is lazy and does not want to change for the sake of tourists; it is still a village with a laundry-drying in the wind, singing roosters as free as the Roma, horse thieves, locals. Chaotic ponaleplennye together stone fences and houses curves reluctantly crowded, missing municipal brigade pavers, entrusted with the responsibility of raschertit city streets in neat lines. The matter goes badly and slowly the fresh asphalt and then there are the trench dug for the night (someone wanted to check your sewer drain), but from the street lamps in the slums of the Bedouin district Assal mysteriously every two days missing light bulbs. Triumphal march of civilization as we move away from the lagoon turns into a lame turtle step. Police station!

Embankment near the Light House. Shopping street.

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The old town everyone knows everyone and every new face of the old-timers singled out from the mass of people walking along the waterfront with unerring electronic detector. Perhaps that is why there is still no one locks the bikes at night, in shops easily released products on credit, and the doors of rooms in cheap Kemp slapped on a draft in the absence of the owners. At two o'clock in the morning in Dahab can safely sit in a taxi to the three zolotozubym Arabs, without fear of losing a purse, health or maiden honor and a street fight there - is as rare as rain storm.

On the waterfront at the entrance to the shop, which sells carved wood bug-eyed purple elephants and giraffes and ornaments made of shells, dancing to Bob Marley's absolutely happy Sudanese Negro. His radiant eyes with blue proteins affects all the joy of being free people in Africa. The joy of being well lit and faces two Japanese eating surrounded by six striped cats bought from a street vendor carts rice pudding. Serene state of blissful relaxation and total friendliness - perhaps the most dominant in the atmosphere of the Old Town - the same parcel as the smell of camels and «No women, no cry» Bob Marley.

Local "Fast food". Way cool zhrachka

And it is a local celebrity. We are his "Grandpa" was called. Seafood prepares God!


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Dahab almost everyone firmly tied to the sea: the dive master and can be dressed in Galaba Bedouin driver of the jeep, and skinny little master diner and the seller in a grocery store; as an elderly, white-haired German scorched by the sun, the water pulling dead time surfing, surf the wave will go with ease and agility worthy of twenty youngster. Here you can see the graceful girls diving with four cylinders at 100 meters, or - diving on 30-50 meters on a breath without the balloon at all; you can meet world champions in all sorts of water sports, eating falyafel in cheap cafes, as well as a very colorful, overgrown mohawk dreadlocks or decoration of Diving Instructors, for which Dahab has become a place from which they once could not leave.

Our band is going to scare the local fauna


The engine of progress

Well, some of fauna ...

Et photo I like most. Better nothing worked for all trips.


On this photo identity fish there. It is difficult to razlechimaya course Masking though!

In a sense, too, fauna



In half an hour by jeep razdolbany killed on the road to the north of Dahab is the famous Blue Hole - a place of pilgrimage for divers from around the world, some of which ended tragically visit here. In memory of those killed on the rocky shore hanging signs with the names and dates of birth and death; among them there are some Russian surnames. Zealous local officials regularly remove part of the plates, in order not to scare away tourists coming; In reality, there must be about a hundred. Giant round break in the reef rock diameter of several tens of meters, reminiscent of a glass with sloping sandy bottom has two exits to the outside of the reef: the deflection depth of 7 meters, like a chipped rim of the glass, and cyclopean arch at the bottom, a set of which is at 54 56 meters, depending on the ebb and flow, and the bottom of slides from 93 to 112 meters at the exit to the open sea. Disgusting visibility, unpredictable descending currents and dead dull landscape of the Blue Hole earned her fame black spot: the locals are convinced that there lives an angel of death. Not prone to superstition divers professionals take a more banal hypothesis: the reason the majority of the tragedy in the Blue Hole - "deep air", that is, deep dives without helium mixtures, and often - and without technical training. From the shore, to be exact - from the top of the rock is perfectly visible winding path Blue Hole, and for those wishing to enjoy them slowly, harassing footage film, set on a hillside bench. A flat piece of land at the bottom teeming with camel jockeys Blue Hole - it is also the last point on the way north along the coast, reachable by car. Further, in the National Park of Ras Abu Galum, the route runs along the curve tropochke along the foot of the cliff: a half hour or an hour walking on a camel, if you will fall frisky instance.

Commemorative plaques divers perished in the Blue Hole. This is only a small part of them. Basically, they shoot the locals so as not to scare the tourists.

Dive into the Blue Hole area.

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This local resident She was asleep when we found it. We had a little disturbed


Bedouin village in the bay of Ras Abu Galum, which is written above.


Trade develops
By the way, we really were afraid of them to take a picture. They are quite far from civilization, so it seemed. Fuck knows what they have in mind

Bedouin kote. Treacherous animals. The food can not be left unattended. Swept away in a second :)


Ras Abu Galum - a small Bedouin village on the sea consisting of reed huts without doors and floor, as well as many camels and barefoot children. Great place for an absolute idleness is surrounded by unspoilt scenery and a relaxing Bedouin: a pair of nights spent under a canopy of palm leaves, through which the light of the constellation Arrows and Lyra, two days felting in the sand, alternating lazy swims in turquoise blue with staring at the magnificent coral reef, heal from excessive fussiness even clinically unable to relax people. Happened to be at Ras Abu Galum Deputies company one of the cities already vast country after days hath the spirit of enlightenment is that at the end of the safari had great difficulty to settle them back to the Hilton. But for the complete and total return to the roots and origins recommended to go even further by taking a pair of camels and local guides, to go deep into the mountains, away from the coast, and every trace of human presence. However, serious safaris lasting many days into the desert you need to start from the Old Town: Sinai desert populated by highly liquid rare, and such trips require a very professional guide and careful planning. On the road more than 3-4 days, only a few dare to Europeans: first, hot, and secondly, troublesome (you have to walk a lot and sleeping, wrapped in a rug), and thirdly, not cheap. But it's worth it: dry riverbeds, canyons, giant boulders, turned the wind in openwork lace of many small holes, dunes with orange-red sand, abandoned Bedouin villages, like the scenery for the films of Tarkovsky and each time emerging out of nowhere oasis from the booming mines multimeter wells of ice water - everything is so little resemblance to the decorative Sinai, which can be seen from the window of a tourist bus that erased a camel coccyx and shoulders burned in the sun perceived as too modest fee for the experience. But local and Bobby!

The road home for Bedouin boat. What's in the trailer for illegal Mesnil laws. It is impossible to approach the courts to Dahab.

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Dahab changes people more than they him, seen here eats into the brain, like sea salt, and dig these vivid pictures of subcortical can only help the serious surgical intervention. After spending two weeks here, people sometimes get stuck for half a year, vaguely trying to explain the family what they found this on this piece of the Sinai Desert. And none of them surprising absolutely sincere mistress of one of the fifty local dive centers, "Oh, I have today was wonderful, just magnificent dive in the Canyon!" - In this case, probably, has three hundredth of the account in the past year and a half of her life.

Gucci, 2005.

Somehow like this.

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