852
Replacement of bearings in a washing machine
So, it all started with the fact that has served 6 years stiralka during the spinning start making sounds Boeing taking off. This situation my wife and the baby did not like, and calls for the study of the masters of Google to give us the price tag for the replacement of the bearings on the 3 - 3, 5000. Scratching turnips and again studied the Internet, read a lot of forums, we decided to hold a replacement yourself. Video in the internet on the topic fully, but all I've found is the replacement of bearings in stiralka plastic collapsible tank stiralki that are sold today are not folding plastic tank with a solid stainless steel. But let not the essence, with a stainless steel is even easier, it is not necessary to disassemble the machine to bolt. Costs are as follows: 460rub 2 bearings and seals, 200r for Automotive Service perepressovku. So, let's begin. Actually, the object itself.
31 photo.
We take out the machine from the headset, detachable hoses and wires.
Turn off the back wall and watch the miracle of Italian engineering (stiralka made in Italy)
Remove strap
We are trying to unscrew a bolt that :) Take a star T40 and greater ratchet handles, fix drum with a hammer and such a mother begin. The bolt is tightened from the heart, plus put on the glue.
Remove the bolt.
Remove pulley. The bearings are pressed into this massive spider that lasts for 8 bolts screwed into her ends. The very cross inserted in the thrust to the edge of the tank. The lower bolts can be unscrewed by putting a face on the floor stiralku previously something of bed so as not to crush the control knobs, and so on. To remove the upper bolts, it is necessary to remove the top cover, and as it turned out, and then another, and a counterbalance mechanism for drying.
To remove a pulley.
Unscrew the top cover. We see that the two upper cross bolt hidden behind a counterbalance mechanism and drying.
Remove counterweight.
Parse drying mechanism (bolts for sprocket T20) and remove the upper half.
Remove the plastic hose drying.
In order not to damage the wires when PETN shakeout crosses, mark them, and remove fotkat.
View removed wires and motor. Engine beast 17500 rpm :)
Unscrew the bolts of the cross (tighten the heart and glue), then take a hammer and a piece of wood and begin to gently knock on the ends of the cross so that it is turned counter-clockwise 15 degrees and came out with a tank thrust. Then she just pulled out and removed from stiralki.
Previous cross.
Outlived its oil seal.
After removing the main bearing oil seal see who decided Boeing closed up :) On the other hand there is a cross bearing a smaller one, it is not fotkal worth from the pulley.
Himself knock podshpniki I could not get very much sitting. Remover I also was not there. Therefore I endured spider to the nearest service station, where I was for a hydraulic press at 200r perepressovali both bearings. In the pictures already new.
Take a new oil seal in the groove of grease, Lithol well suited.
Put the gland into place.
Take collected crossbar and pushes back stiralku. As with disassembly, carefully nailed it in place, ensuring that the bolt holes aligned.
Putting it all in place. We put a plastic duct drying, but first tighten the bolts underneath.
Pushes the air duct in place.
The lower part of the dress in the air outlet of the tank. There pomuchalsya, did not want it to become a place. The collar of the screw - not my know-how and Italian :)
Putting the mechanism of drying after cleaning the inside. A lot of dried tripe in any form of the fabric fibers, dust, etc.
All spins upper bolts of the cross, put the counterweight, set the top cover.
We put into place a pulley.
Twist-bolt from the heart :)
Picks up all the wires, put the belt on the seat, put the back cover, turn on, check.
Required tools: hammer, a piece of wood, small pliers, screwdriver flat and cross asterisk T20 and T40, the head 10 and 13, small and large ratchet, lubrication.
Posted in [mergetime] 1389766744 [/ mergetime]
A trial run showed that the repair was successful. Stiralka again runs quietly and gently, does not vibrate, just like from the store :) My wife is happy.
All costs - 660 rubles. Non bearings and seals are on the Internet, there are sites to pick them up on the model stiralki. In my case, to order them on the Internet came out 2 times more expensive than to take in the store.
That's all I wanted to say!!! :)
Source:
31 photo.
We take out the machine from the headset, detachable hoses and wires.
Turn off the back wall and watch the miracle of Italian engineering (stiralka made in Italy)
Remove strap
We are trying to unscrew a bolt that :) Take a star T40 and greater ratchet handles, fix drum with a hammer and such a mother begin. The bolt is tightened from the heart, plus put on the glue.
Remove the bolt.
Remove pulley. The bearings are pressed into this massive spider that lasts for 8 bolts screwed into her ends. The very cross inserted in the thrust to the edge of the tank. The lower bolts can be unscrewed by putting a face on the floor stiralku previously something of bed so as not to crush the control knobs, and so on. To remove the upper bolts, it is necessary to remove the top cover, and as it turned out, and then another, and a counterbalance mechanism for drying.
To remove a pulley.
Unscrew the top cover. We see that the two upper cross bolt hidden behind a counterbalance mechanism and drying.
Remove counterweight.
Parse drying mechanism (bolts for sprocket T20) and remove the upper half.
Remove the plastic hose drying.
In order not to damage the wires when PETN shakeout crosses, mark them, and remove fotkat.
View removed wires and motor. Engine beast 17500 rpm :)
Unscrew the bolts of the cross (tighten the heart and glue), then take a hammer and a piece of wood and begin to gently knock on the ends of the cross so that it is turned counter-clockwise 15 degrees and came out with a tank thrust. Then she just pulled out and removed from stiralki.
Previous cross.
Outlived its oil seal.
After removing the main bearing oil seal see who decided Boeing closed up :) On the other hand there is a cross bearing a smaller one, it is not fotkal worth from the pulley.
Himself knock podshpniki I could not get very much sitting. Remover I also was not there. Therefore I endured spider to the nearest service station, where I was for a hydraulic press at 200r perepressovali both bearings. In the pictures already new.
Take a new oil seal in the groove of grease, Lithol well suited.
Put the gland into place.
Take collected crossbar and pushes back stiralku. As with disassembly, carefully nailed it in place, ensuring that the bolt holes aligned.
Putting it all in place. We put a plastic duct drying, but first tighten the bolts underneath.
Pushes the air duct in place.
The lower part of the dress in the air outlet of the tank. There pomuchalsya, did not want it to become a place. The collar of the screw - not my know-how and Italian :)
Putting the mechanism of drying after cleaning the inside. A lot of dried tripe in any form of the fabric fibers, dust, etc.
All spins upper bolts of the cross, put the counterweight, set the top cover.
We put into place a pulley.
Twist-bolt from the heart :)
Picks up all the wires, put the belt on the seat, put the back cover, turn on, check.
Required tools: hammer, a piece of wood, small pliers, screwdriver flat and cross asterisk T20 and T40, the head 10 and 13, small and large ratchet, lubrication.
Posted in [mergetime] 1389766744 [/ mergetime]
A trial run showed that the repair was successful. Stiralka again runs quietly and gently, does not vibrate, just like from the store :) My wife is happy.
All costs - 660 rubles. Non bearings and seals are on the Internet, there are sites to pick them up on the model stiralki. In my case, to order them on the Internet came out 2 times more expensive than to take in the store.
That's all I wanted to say!!! :)
Source:
