Asmara, Eritrea

About Eritrea media write horrible things that the authorities here more than 20 years of bloody regime, that there is no media freedom and tortured dissidents in prison. Eritrea is even called the African North Korea. Honestly, I expected to see here an ordinary African state police, with frightened people, soldiers and plainclothes security officers who monitor your every step. The reality was very surprised. In appearance it is absolutely normal country, with good and hospitable people. Eritrea has quite naturally looked to the margins of Europe, but not in Africa.





The street is difficult to meet a police officer for a day in the capital, Asmara, I only saw a couple of local cops. In the evening the streets are filled with people strolling, and all is well in European dress. Girls go to the dresses and short skirts, young men in bright patent leather shoes and shirts, just like in Sochi discos. Couples take all the cafes, the tables are on the streets, people drink coffee, wine and eat ice cream. Asmara is generally considered one of the safest capitals in Africa. It is very friendly to foreigners. Nobody forbids to shoot. There were a few occasions when I point the camera at the person who did not like it. If a person is trying to resent the people around him just snapped: "What, you feel sorry? That wound up old fogy? Can not you see you a tourist wants to stay in! Not diabetes, not melt! "Etc. I, on the contrary encouraged and helped to get permission to film in general, anywhere you feel honored guest.

Of course, when you start to dig deeper. You understand why youth run away, but the United Nations has imposed sanctions and limited trade with Eritrea.

Before World War II, Eritrea was an Italian colony. After the war, he was part of Ethiopia, Eritreans but did not like it. Eritrean War of Independence was more than 30 years, and only in 1993 was able to break away from Ethiopia. Then he came to power local dictator Isaias Afewerki. He canceled the presidential elections, imposed censorship and created a small African tyranny. Surprisingly, the people to it are quite normal here. At about the same as we have in the province to the United Russia: "If not him, then who? But now the stability! No good deed goes unpunished ... "etc. Eritreans are generally very patriotic people and do not like ktogda they begin to learn to live without. "Do you know why the United Nations against us only introduces economic sanctions? Why do not they attack us? "- Told me my my driver, -" Because we can not be defeated in the war! If tomorrow the war starts, one and all stand up and go to the front. And young and old. Come with stones, with sticks, but no one give up our land. We have 30 years of fighting for independence is not to Europe and the United States have taught us to live now! "Such sentiments are very common in the country.

Pritenzii from Eritrea to the United Nations, not only because of the bloody regime. The main problem, it will support the Somali Islamists. Eritrea accused that it supplied the rebels with weapons and money, provides shelter and space for political activities of Islamic fundamentalists and militants, and Eritrean "volunteers" took part in the civil war in Somalia. Despite the fact that President Afewerki denied everything, saying that it's all rumors and intrigues of the CIA, the United Nations imposed sanctions, the government blocked the accounts of the country and banned them from visiting the UN member countries.

The main problem with the Eritrean army. Drafted into the army, as we have after school. Just call mandatory for all 6 months. Call both men and women. After 6 months in the army conscript exams in college or technical school to learn a profession. Then there are two options, either you are doing and go to study or not received and remain in the army to serve 2 years. After the service you are trying to opyatp exams and somewhere to do. If not, you're left to serve ... Some people sit in the army 10-15 years can not go to college and get a profession. Theoretically, a person can sit in the army to 60 years, after the age of conscription ends here with offensive mpensii. If you go to college and finished it, it required some time to work on the state distribution, or sent to the hated army.

Despite the availability of higher education and work every Eritrean distribution once a year for a month I shall leave for military training. Every resident of military age (60 years). Girls easier after 31 years, if there is a child and a husband on charges can not walk. This whole mess with the Army do not like young people who are fleeing the country in any way possible. Fleeing to Sudan, fleeing to Uganda, etc. People are willing to live in appalling conditions, but would not go into the Eritrean army. What makes it so bad no one says, just want freedom. With the army and associated restrictions on the movement. The young man can not get a passport to leave the country. It is not served, the passport will not give. As a result, the right to leave the country has a very limited number of people. It's either the elderly, enjoy the people and get the process to repay a debt to the state many years of work on the distribution.

The capital, Asmara. Previously, there was a village, but then came the Italians, and in 1897 decided to build capital. The same village, where it all began, remains as a memorial to apartheid. It is in the foreground image. After the construction of the capital of the Italians all the locals and left to live in this village. Himself same colonialists built up huge theaters, villas, hotels and restaurants. Local residents were forbidden to appear on the main streets. For them, closed the entrance to the Italian cafes and restaurants, they could not visit hospitals, cinemas and shops for whites.



The streets of Asmara.



The city is very nice. All blooms. The city is very green.



The city is situated at an altitude of 2300 meters above sea level, thanks to the climate here is very comfortable. Year-round average temperature is around 20 degrees. Sometimes, there are frosts and even snow falls. But there is a terrible African heat.



Look, what a beauty.



Previously, there were rich Italian villa. Now Eritrean embassies and villas of the rich.



Central Street.



The country has imposed currency restrictions. Just like that to buy dollars can not be a local resident. If you happen to travel abroad, you can highlight a few dollars (payment is $ 100 per day). The official rate of 15 local Nakfa per dollar. On the black market the dollar will give you 30 or 40 Nakfa! The authorities are struggling with the black market. On the streets and in taxis often operate under the guise of police dressed me to catch the tourists. Be careful. But if you can change on the black market your dollars. You just get richer. All prices for you at 2-3 times cheaper! A glass of freshly squeezed juice dollar hearty meal in a good restaurant 5 dollars.



The city is very well preserved. Here all like 100 years ago. A similar atmosphere in Havana, Cuba, or in the resorts of Abkhazia.



Mail. Actually, nothing has changed



Look at the chic sidewalks and curbs! Even 100 years ago, the Italians were able to do borders with locking compound, so they do not fall apart. In Russia do not know how. Maybe in 100 years will learn?



The streets full of cafes. Asmara called "New Rome" or "Italian city in Africa" ​​because of the special Italian spirit that reigns in the streets.



Old Italian pharmacy. All the furniture is preserved from those times.



The old ticket office is still working! Just a city-museum.



Old Italian restaurant. Furniture and decorations have survived from those times.



They say that in this cafe cook the best espresso. I checked, it is indeed the best.



Always full of people. A cup of coffee costs 5 rubles. I can say that in Moscow such a good espresso is not found. About 5 rubles silent.



Visitors.



In the next room playing a game unknown to me.



Old Opera House.



Now here are the performances. There is no electricity.



Old cinema. Sessions several times a week. Electricity is also not, so on the occasion of the movie include a generator. Cinema show through the usual laptop and home projector. Generally every important institution has its generator.



In Asmara live mostly supporters of the Eritrean Orthodox Church, 60%, 15% - Catholics, 25% - are Muslims. Although half of the country's Muslims. According to the Constitution of 1997 in the country should be guaranteed religious freedom, but in 2002 the government required the registration of religious groups, and under the pretext of registration outlaw all religions, except the four main - Islam, the Eritrean Orthodox Church, the Evangelical (Lutheran) Church of Eritrea, and the Roman -Catholic Church. Numerous other groups, including Pentecostals, Jehovah's Witnesses, Orthodox reformists chased activists were sent to prison and tortured. Catholic Cathedral:



Mosque. It is also the Italians built



Enda Mariam Orthodox Church.



I understand explanation of the local is local patriarch.



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The interior of the cathedral.



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Gasoline in Eritrea do not sell. It just buy it at the pump can not be. State refueling only on the cards. For example, taxi drivers a day provide 20 liters. For official cars need to coordinate the route and the route to get to this quota. For example, I'm going to go to the north of the country. My driver agreed on this route, and he was given gasoline. Outputted from the average consumption of a car of the brand of gasoline per 100 kilometers. The driver immediately warned that the condo would not include it, since kondeem flow more and we will not make it. Ride all very sparingly. If possible, the engine immediately jammed. This saving is justified, at the end of the trip my driver company brings a small canister of gasoline to her sister. Available to buy gasoline can on the black market where the price goes up to 5-6 USD per liter of 95. Many taxi drivers baryzhat quotas for gasoline. For this they get a card, they buy food and then rolled the odometer to show trip. Then push the gasoline black market. Get licensed taxi driver is impossible. It is transmitted either by inheritance or outbid another taxi driver. If the family is dying, and the taxi driver had no heirs, the door just stand in line wanting to buy out the license widow stiffs.



Small Fiats. In general, cars on the streets is very small. The first thing that catches the eye, that all roads are empty. You can safely walk on the roadway, do not fear that you crush someone.



But all crammed into buses.



Each bus terrible crush.



Travel by bus costs 2 rubles.



There are problems with the products. Basically they sell what is done in the country. Foreign foods virtually none. There is a luxury drink. Bottle of Coke is $ 2, which by local standards, insanely expensive. Bank foreign Heineken beer costs 7 dollars, against $ 1 for local beers.



Trendy boutique.



The country has no private press. There are several state newspapers and everything.



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