The Pamir Mountains

In late July 2009, a group of friends gathered in Krasnoyarsk holidays. They sat for two cars and drove through the Altai, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, the Pamirs. Stunning location, we drove deserve a separate topic, but today we are not talking about them. After a week of bumps on the way to the horizon appears our goal - Lenin Peak (7134 m). This is the easiest seventhousander the former Soviet Union and a place of pilgrimage for thousands of tourists and mountaineers from different countries.
38 photo + letter + video

By the evening, we drove up to the foot of the majestic mountains. We are now in the territory of Kyrgyzstan, over the ridge - Tajikistan.

The next morning - the last spurt, and we find ourselves at the base camp at an altitude of 3100. It is already felt the lack of oxygen, shortness of breath begins with the active movements. Even worse than pulling cars, passengers had to walk.

Base camp

For acclimatization arrange access to the nearby peak Petrovsky (4765).

This view of the valley from the top. The district is actively developing commercial tourism and a number of companies are holding their camps and guides.

The rise becomes steeper, the snow begins. Without sunglasses here is not enough.

Top seen piling up rocks, moraines and glaciers.

Actually the top of Petrovsky. Acclimatization place.

That night the snow fell and the base camp completely transformed. Today we collect backpacks and brings to zabrosku.

Our task - to carry out part of the equipment and food and put up tents, first at Camp 1 (4100), and then - at Camp 2 (5300), and then return to base camp to acclimatize all the rules to give your body a rest from a height.

Our way lies through the pass Travelers ...

... Along the Lenin glacier. Previously, we went straight on the glacier, but a few years ago it was torn, rummaged through the cracks Glacier, which made it impossible to move on. Now, all walk on the rocky slopes near the glacier, which is much harder. The local population earns here carting horses and donkeys.

That camp 1 at an altitude of 4100. We are located at the foot of Lenin Peak, here begins the actual climb.

And here is the peak. We have to get up in the middle of the slope and go over the cliff on the right.

At dawn, we start to climb.

This is the only "technical" section of the route on which you need to keep cords out of the danger of falling into a crevasse on the glacier. A great number of cracks, and for the most part, they are covered with snow, and can reach a depth of tens of meters. In the course are ropes, harnesses, crampons and ice axes.

The rise continues.

We climb higher and higher, leaving behind the 1st camp.

This plateau is called "pan". Its concave surface reflects the sun's rays and a clear windless weather is quite hot. 2nd camp and 90 th was located here. July 13, 1990 a small earthquake caused enormous snow-ice collapse under which killed 43 people. Their bodies remained under the ice mass. Since then, the camp is a little higher - it can be seen in the photo at right by the rocks.

The second camp (5300). We put a tent, sleeping, leaving zabrosku and go down, passing Camp 1 to the base.

And here we are at the base camp rest, eat food, drink beverages and adjusts to climb. Tomorrow we start. Again, we go to the camp of 4100, there overnight and 5300.

Again, the rise in the pan. Today the clouds are crawling and almost nothing is visible.

Here are here are cracked.

The morning at Camp 2. The sky is not blue, and dark blue. In the background, people have koryachitsya the ridge. Here we leave the already unnecessary gear: ropes, helmets, harnesses and accessories.

The rise continues. Our goal - to camp 3 at an altitude of 6300 near the bottom of the cliffs remained Camp-2.

This is somewhere we need to go.

Camp 3 (6300) - the assault. We put up tents, chop ice, compose feed.

In the morning in the dark we come out of the tents - a feeling that spacewalk. By the light of lanterns prepare a light breakfast, we eat it and go to the assault. Dawn delights us with an abundance of colors.

The sun had dawned on top.

The last hundred meters before the summit. It seems already see the summit and it remains only to overcome short climb, but breaking it, you see that this is not the top, and the inflection of the slope, followed by a plateau and a new rise. This greatly psychologically exhausting.

Here at last and the top. It is not spicy, as you'd expect, and has the size of a football field. No shit around to be seen - Offers solid. Well, I'm here persya Th?

That's all. With great satisfaction we bring down down into the warm Central Asia, hospitable Osh, where we are waiting for a shower, kebabs, fruit and other nice stuff!

Few landscapes.




Two colorful stream merge together.

Dobavleno1 in [mergetime] 1285756289 [/ mergetime]
Perhaps all



See also

New and interesting