Elbrus from the north. 08/01/2014 Bashny.Net

Dedicated to my beloved wife.
Happy birthday, dear!

[For those not wishing to read the entire report, I will start with the results and conclusions:

1. Climbing held. Despite the fact that at least three times the expedition was on the verge of collapse, the eastern peak of Mount Elbrus was taken from the north 08/01/2014 at 15:00.
2. The total time spent by the group - 7 days, with the two days of rest: the day before the ascent and the day after.
3. From the group of six people went up to the top two.
4. Climbing carried out with the assault camp at an altitude of 3800m on the route:
 - Assault camp - 3800m
 - Lower cliffs Lenz - 4500m
 - A helipad on the secondary rocks Lenz - 4800m
 - Top rock Lenz - 5200m
 - Eastern peak of Elbrus - 5621m
5. Exit the camp 01.00, set on top of 15.00, descent to 18.00.
6. It was difficult, but interesting.

24 photos.





A report about the ascent of Mount Elbrus in the north, 2014god. [Center]

My climbing Elbrus took nearly two months, and started with the fact that I quit smoking.
No, of course, the desire to conquer the highest mountain in Europe was not the consequence of non-tobacco, it was born a few years earlier.
Working in sales poputeshestvuesh not much, but I always enthusiastically looked after reports of people afford this luxury. Naturally, more attention was attracted by professionals. They go further, climb higher, dive deeper. And the stories of his adventures written with passion and excitement.
Once, on a random recommendation, downloaded and read the book R.Messnera "Crystal Horizon". By itself, the book is very strong, but when you start to read it, after reading the biography of the author and story writing, it appears somewhat different angle. Messner - brilliant climber, and the book tells the story of how he first, alone, without oxygen went to Everest. In general, my outlook has undergone another change.
The last few years I have tried to keep themselves in a more or less acceptable physical form that is manifested in an attempt to prevent excess weight pass for ten pounds. Sometimes went to a small hike, took part in active games.
In one of the games I happened to get acquainted with CCM and mountaineering instructor. Very interesting person in the exterior of which almost nothing is so serious status reflected in a truly masculine, harsh reality. Later, meet other "gurus" climbing I was surprised to realize that the breast muscles and super sports figures - it's not about them. The more muscles, the more weight it is necessary to drag upward.

Photo: two of the greatest climber (left to right): Reinhold Messner and Edmund Hillary



So, met, talked, in the end, I was invited to the climbing fees, which were exported just beginners. Charges held in the Mount of Sofia, near the settlement Arhiz - in the Caucasus. There was a lot of wonderful and interesting for the short-lived holidays in May, will not dwell on the details. Result: The tests have been dealt, the first real mountain conquered! I officially awarded the title of "Alpinist of Russia" and issued a document icon

Photo: Icon "Mountaineer Russia»



In the evening, a glass of wine on the successful ascent, the instructor mentioned about the upcoming expedition to Mount Elbrus. Moreover, he offered to join the group. To prepare remained little more than two months, but I decided to take up this challenge.
Refreshed via the Internet information on Elbrus, reminded myself that it's not just the highest point of Europe, some authors call it - the mountain-killer. Every year, on the slopes of Mount Elbrus, for various reasons, there is a lot of people. Official statistics are not available, but unofficially MChSovtsy say about every 60 that climbers.
Go to the North. Normal people first go to the South. On the southern slopes of Mount Elbrus is equipped with a cable car that takes you to an altitude of 3800m, where the shelter is equipped with a "barrel", then, to the shelter of 11 at an altitude of 4200m you can raise the snowcat, and if the weather and the ability to negotiate, you can throw on snowcat and higher. Well, then, onward and upward to the western peak with a height of 5642m.
We go from the north. Wildlife and equipped slope. The entire route runs from the bottom of his feet. On the way we are waiting for the crack to a depth of 200m, glaciers, which can only take place in cats, rocks Lenz, stretching for 700 meters in height, entirely in the memorial tablets and crosses in honor of the dead explorers. At the end of the route we are waiting for the eastern peak of Mount Elbrus - 5621m.
In any case, which side do not come in, after about 3000m above sea level, almost everyone starts mountain sickness (gornyashka). The lack of oxygen and pressure change the human body does not react with joy. The symptoms are different from simple headaches and nausea to loss of coordination, consciousness. There are many cases of hallucinations. To reduce the negative reaction of the body to minimize experienced climbers must pass before climbing acclimatization. Reduces it to move in a few days at medium altitudes, then rise by about 1000 meters, downhill 500 - rest (overnight), again rise - descent, and thus approach to "assault camp" - the camp from which to start the final ascent to the summit. Thus the body gets used to staying on top, and responds less rapidly. Ideally, the negative feelings from lifting none at all, a maximum of a slight headache.
So, remind yourself where I'm going, I decided to give serious attention to training. The first jogging 5 miles over 3 km with time of 17 minutes and a feeling of complete squeezed. The result is a terrible, especially given the fact that in his younger years I ran 3 miles on average over 11m 30s and was a member of the team on marshbrosku 10km.
Well, as they say the road by walking.
After two weeks, the first time ran 5km of 25 minutes, that is, the average rate of 5 m / km - a good jog.
It was two months prior to the expedition, and then, finally, I decided to quit. Patches "Nicorette" like help. At least the first 3 weeks I wore them, then "toad" won (6 patches in the package - about 1000r), and began to fight with a sport. Wanted to smoke - fell - squeeze. It did not help, go to catch up. It did not help, go to the gym or run.
The regime was similar to the following: day - running 5-10km day - gym (lessons on funktsionalku 1 5-2chasa). In one day of rest per week.
Over the weekend, the outputs in the foothills or mountains, the benefit to the mountains Fischt, Oshten, Pshekha sous-three hour drive by car. Each output is felt stronger and more confident. Good feeling.
The last weekend before going on an expedition spent on the mountain Oshten - 2804m above sea level.
So, the day of departure. Backpack laid the basis of the duration of the expedition 10 days, variable weather conditions. Weighed - 36kg. This is without water. Anyway, I would only get to the base camp.
From Krasnodar with two changes finally get in the Elbrus region. The base camp is set up near the clearing Emanuel - a historic site, it is here in July 1829 expedition led by General GA Emmanuel first conquered Mount Elbrus.
The base camp at an altitude of 2400m split. Very scenic spots. Near narzan source. Weather on the day of arrival wonderful.

photo: Base camp, day of arrival 26.07.2014g height of 2400m



In the base camp we arrived about 15 people, of which more or less willing to climb to the top eight. The rest came to rest, take a walk, prodyshatsya clean air. Separately want to note that the expedition had as many as three people with crusts on mountaineering instructors.

photo: Base camp, the morning of the second day 28.07.2014g height of 2400m



27/07/2014 - The first day. [Center]
Rose near eight in the morning. Leader of the expedition commanded fees, access to nine. According to the plan of the day hike to the base of the MOE, situated at an altitude of 3800m. Backpacks light - water, little food, windbreaker. Came the extended. Took a long time, as some comrades clearly overestimated their strength, and separated, or break away from the team leader is strictly prohibited. Halfway covered thick fog began to drizzle rain. Head wanted to turn back, but we persuaded. In the end, he let go of the initiative group with one of the instructors. Ran to the base of Ministry of Emergency Situations is completely wet. Was not cold.

Photo: Assault camp. Ministry of Emergency Situations houses height 3800 first day 27.07.2014



In the houses base GC "Lakkolit", located not far from the Ministry of Emergency Situations trailers have given hot compote and gave a brief shelter from the rain. Thank you guys so much. After lifting the rest of the group a little bite to eat, then went touched the snow and turned back. In the camp returned completely wet, but happy.
Head announced the next day vacation. It was necessary to dry and gather for the transfer of camps in 3800.
In the evening came the sad news. On the saddle of Elbrus (between vertices) lightning killed a man. His wife was able to communicate with rescuers and asked for help. Details were not. Group of climbers from Rostov-on-Don at the time was to spend the night at an altitude of 4800m, they attracted the rescue. Popped group ministry. Considered a variant of our participation, but we have very poor acclimatization, we could not help anything. It was decided that we are ready to advance to 3800 for the descent of the victim or the body of the deceased from the base MOE.

28/07/2014 - The second day. [Center]
News on the rescue was not. About where the victims in the MOE realized in the morning, rescuers reached the area searches. We were asked to be ready.
Just sit in the camp did not want to, to it, collecting comers, surprisingly they were only two wonderful girls, taking the radio, I went for a walk.

picture: Margot and Vera - two wonderful girls. Walk the second day 28.07.2014



A few hours raised to 600 meters high and ran about 15 km. Made a lot of beautiful pictures, well, as expected, were in the rain.

Photo: Undetermined garbage at an altitude of 2800m



News by rescue: Woman found alive, descend on the south side. Body of a man found and drained to the south. Our help is not needed.

07/29/2014 - Day Three. [Center]
The morning was wonderful, in that from eight to ten managed to dry almost all the necessary things. Exit at 10.00. In backpack belongings, public equipment, food. Feels like the weight of the backpack a little more than 30kg and when to pick up with him in 1400 at the height of 8, 5 km - it very much.
In effect, the route may be divided into four lifting. The first - a base camp to a German airfield, set an altitude of 300 meters. It has been almost non-stop, but the "hooked". Up to a halt before the second slope reached at the end of the group. No backlog, it was not very nice.
With the halt came first, set himself the task to keep up with more.
The second rise in the most protracted and height and distance. Eliminated normally in the middle column. Well then, opened N-th breath and the last kilometers were given, though hard, but fast.
First climbed to the summit camp Margot (tourist from Mezmay) and Glory - instructor with Rostov-on-Don. Behind them only 5-7 minutes. The most severe were the last 300-400 meters, when the house appeared at the top of the base GC "Lakkolit" and the body decided that but it came. And we must also go to the place of camping.

Photo: 07.29.2014 - Day Three. My tent at an altitude of 3800.



The evening was fun. First covered the fog, visibility almost was not, and then it began to rain, which after a while was replaced by hail. Drummed degrees thirty minutes passed in the snow. Wet, heavy snow. Under him and fell asleep. Get up at night, in the area of ​​02.00 - blue sky, the stars, the Milky Way. Awesome beautiful!

30.07.2014 - Day Four. [Center]
Acclimatization to the rocks Lenz. Morning sun, heat. Came out about half of the ninth in the morning. Assault backpack, it puff, tarpaulin, water, some food. With a rope 50 meters, cat harness, three rifle. Of the six remaining members of the expedition to the cliffs that day came only four. Two with poor health remained in assault camp.

Photo: Morning enter the acclimatization 30.07.2014



Half an hour later came to the area of ​​cracks, contacted two. A turning stone to 4300 were about three hours. Gone are two conspicuous cracks and several implicit. Large cracks Emergencies Ministry identified the sticks. There were very "bold" group, which went without tangles. Saw a couple of singles. Wildcats guys. Peered into one of the open fractures - deeply. Fly away, in principle, not the fact that dokrichishsya to the top passing, even if you save consciousness.
Stone removed on the rotary gear, ropes. Backpacks left everyone except me. The instructor wanted to turn back, but, again, I insisted that it was necessary to climb some more. Thank allowed. We were given about an hour of free climbing. That is where we come up there and everything. Frisky start, reached the lower rocks Lenz - 4500 approximately. Looked back, close behind is Margot, the rest behind. Went on for the specified time interval has scored 200 m altitude. There stood up, took out a thermos, waited for the others. Margo came, and after ten minutes the instructor. Drank tea, went back. The fourth participant reached only to the lower rocks Lenz.

Photo: The main point of the ascent from the north



Descending into the assault camp instructor stunned news that climbing is not likely to take place, since the group is not ready. More precisely ready only two people - me and Margo, but since we are new one will not let us alone. It was very unpleasant. Naturally, I tried to find options for climbing. Poobsuzhdat, came to the decision that the next day completely relax, and the next day still make an attempt to climb.
In the evening again was hail, rain is replaced.

31/07/2014 - Day Five
Rest is a good thing. In fact, the body was pleased to unexpected opportunities to do nothing. The weather was awful, especially in the afternoon, in that by asking one of the instructors of the book he had read, fell into the tent. Neither the author nor the names of the books I do not remember. Bad story is written extremely mediocre, but then I read it almost breathless. The day passed quietly and unobtrusively.
Head appointed output to 00.00, so the rise for the assessment of weather and fees at 23.00. In this area in 19.00 I went to bed, and, oddly enough, he fell asleep.

08/01/2014 - Day Six - climbing.
At midnight, the weather is pleased splendor of the sky. It was freezing, but not cold. I think that the temperature was slightly below zero, as the remaining water in the spoon frozen. Margot stood first, put the water to wake the others. While drinking tea and waiting for porridge, participants rated their ascent of moral and physical condition and decide who will go to the mountain. Fortunately, everything felt good, and in the area of ​​01.00, we all staff - six people went to the mountain.

Photo: Night ascent. Point of light at the foot of - our group.



Snow in the evening cold, went in one bunch. Walk slowly, do stop to rest participants. The state of health was excellent. In the area of ​​rotary stone us ahead of the commercial team with foreigners. Below, began climbing another group. We were not alone.
By about 04.00 - 04.30 entire group climbed the lower rocks Lenz. There was a tent oud. Some groups prefer not to storm the summit with 3800, we and the gradual ascent with overnight stops at 4500 and 4800 respectively. And from there the final ascent.

Photo: Tent on the lower rocks Lenz - 4500m



As the leader of the expedition was not feeling very well, a halt on the lower rocks Lenz lasted until dawn.
There was a question about the continuation of the climb. Fortunately, one of the instructors themselves felt fine and was ready to try to rise above. Agreed that he "raise" us on 5200 - the upper rocks Lenz, but we'll see. With that and went. We Margo ahead, carrying provisions and hot tea, ready to cover the clearing for coming back. About an hour - a half reached the middle of rocks, the height of 4800m - the so-called helipad. In July 2010 then fell MI-8 helicopter. Now from him almost nothing left.

Photo: Helicopter for 4800 - Photo 210 years from www.risk.ru



Put melt snow, prepared alpine compote. In thermos threw a lot of dried fruit, filled with boiling water, it came out very well. I went to look around.

Photo: Memorial plaque dead in 2004 a group of climbers from Ulyanovsk.



Photo: View of the route to the top of rocks Lenz - 5200m



Our lingering comrades came with a delay of an hour. Ate, drank tea. The instructor was not feeling very well. Mountain sickness manifested itself strongly enough. Headache, lack of oxygen. I was all wonderful. Full of energy, ready to feats. The question arose, what to do next. Here, the bottom approached by a group of experienced climbers with large backpacks. Started to put up tents, to equip camp. In the group of six people, three of whom are older - fifty, and three younger - around 30 years.
























Very unpleasant.