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Author: Maksut Zhumaev
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Chogori - the most risky in the world to climb the mountain, better known under the name Peak K2. In August last year, Kazakh climbers Maksut Zhumayev and Vasily Pivtsov after five attempts for several years, finally reached the summit. The expedition lasted more than two months. The team, which was attended by representatives from Germany, Poland, Austria and Argentina, faced with all the difficulties experienced and dangerous ascent nepogodnye various conditions. Vox Populi is Maksut Zhumaeva blog, which tells how it was





The expedition "K2" was launched in Bishkek. The ascent of K2 was involved seven people, but one climber from the United States was unable to join us because of visa problems. As a result, our team consists of six people - Basil Pivtsov Tommy Henrici from Argentina, spouse Ralph Dyuymovets and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria, videoperatora Darek Zaluski from Poland and myself, Sgt CSKA Maksut Zhumaeva (pictured Ralph chooses melons, photo Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner) < br />


On 17 June. I woke up in the tent at 6am, freshness and vitality! After breakfast regrouped expedition cargo with only one purpose - to hide the satellite terminal and telephone Thuraya, and the most important - the sausage! We were told that the Chinese customs acute intolerance to products of civilization



In Kashgar city of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region of China, we arrived in the late afternoon. Climb K2 either from Pakistan or from China. Here the way to the top, we have the very "Grandpa Mao»



June 19. The city began buying everyday food. "Food" - this is a hot topic in the expedition. We were warned that the Kyrgyz-Chinese border, all the food will be confiscated in favor of the "affairs of the party." But we are at your own risk was driven 40 cans of corned beef horsemeat



Our caravan started from the village Ilik here locals, ethnic Kazakhs and Kyrgyz, rent camels. This service is very expensive, but they are a monopoly, as by helicopter for climbers banned in China, and find hundreds of porters is not possible



Shipping day of the caravan for all the locals - a great holiday. After all, they make money on an expedition for the whole year ahead. On our expedition we allocated 40 camels and 10 mushers. Each camel takes 80-100 kg. When all loads are distributed, begin their navyuchivat



June 24th. In the morning it was cloudy, windy. In the mountainous region, through which we walked to the base camp, a lot of unnamed peaks that are untouched by human hands. In the clouds on the top, I spotted a figure of stone like a praying angel



June 25th. The desert mountain gorge even stones reflect light, the thermometer was 35 degrees. Also Shizgam river, waiting in front of the caravan crossing a mountain river Chogori. The crossing was very dangerous, water overwhelmed camels for most belly. And the stones that flew under the water, driven over, could knock them down. But nothing happened, and we made it safely to base camp



Here, in an oasis of desert canyons in the bush herd of wild asses live. With these beautiful animals we met in 2007, when made one attempt to climb K2. We set the base camp on the edge of the oasis, on the other hand lived kulans



July 1. From the first day of arrival to the base camp all the actions of the team were aimed at the upcoming ascent. One thing to set up camp, you still get to the mountains. Specificity of the ascent of K2, such that you need to overcome the 20 kilometers on moraines and glaciers. This way we will divide into three parts: the base camp in good camp and then to camp 1. Every access to the mountain - this event, I had to regularly send information to their homeland. Our team consists of only two people had experience of climbing the chosen route. In 2007 the expedition completed the ascent to an altitude of 8450 meters. Above the 4th high altitude camp route is a big problem. And this "smertelnopasnuyu" we had to solve the problem (photo Pivtsov B.)



Our main house - ABC (advanced base camp, from the English. Advanced Base Camp). There are growing grass and flowers, but it is necessary to walk 100 meters and you are on the lifeless glacier. In the camp everyone has their own tent, one table, she's wardroom, where going to the whole team, and spends his spare time. Next to a large tent in a tent kitchen, which creates culinary wonders of our cook. Snow in the best camp dropped out, usually at night, and every morning we cleaned the snow from the tent. In good weather, we were treated with the route, and in bad - holed up at the base. But in all its charm. When the top of the storm - the avalanche and scared for his life when the bottom is snowing - nostalgia for the winter in the heat of summer



Ralf and Gerlinde constantly passed reports on the progress of the expedition



The camp setting Spartan, the first week we broke all three thermos. Kettle, mugs and spoons - all this is not important, the main thing - the top



Darek Zaluski - our high-altitude cameraman. Hailing from Warsaw (Poland). We are connected by a good, long friendship. Darek is rightfully one of the most experienced high-altitude cameramen in the world. Shoot video in the mountains - a very difficult and complex work. View snow storm, frozen in the cold lyutom person to convey the beauty and depth of the mountains - not to everyone's shoulder



5'th of July. The first day of good weather. At 8:40 am we left the camp. Ralph and Gerlinde were looking for a new path. But somehow all paths lead to the same moraine main corridor that leads to the base Chogori



Our tent is always light and spacious noted Ralph Gerlinde, who came to have a drink in our tea with lemon and discuss plans for tomorrow. The first transition took a lot of energy, so after all the tea quickly fell asleep (Photo Darek Zaluski)



July 6. Out on the mountain is scheduled for 5:00 am.
Ralph Dyuymovich - Gerlinde's husband, the first representative of Germany, who completed the program 14 eight. He is a successful businessman, the head of the largest travel companies Amical and just a good climber



Staking avalanche rope railing on a ski slope. Ahead runs Basil on insurance Ralph. Looking ahead, I will say that on this hillside in one of the assault on the days we avalanche. But we survived, stay on the rope railing that We fixed earlier. In tactics we are constantly shared command: the first three climbers handles route proveshivajut railings, the second trio of climbers at this time makes salable freight, bringing the route under the gear, ropes, harnesses snow stakes, ice screws, pitons. Any work is difficult and vital



Tent life is simple and uncomplicated. One big casserole for four. The main task - to restore moisture balance. The day mountaineer loses up to 3 liters of fluid, mainly through breathing. Water is necessary for the blood thickens and increases the likelihood of frostbite otherwise (photo Pivtsov B.)



July 7. Up at 3 am. The plan is to take a rope and a maximum sag of up to 2nd camp. Today comes six of the first of the camp includes Ralf and Gerlinde, then Basil I, the latest - Darek and Tommy



Next we went to trample Basil. We change each other every 100-200 steps. Come forward asking Gerlinde, we politely ask her to spare strength and allow us to work. Together, we return to the tent of the 1st camp after 6pm. Hard working day, which brought satisfaction with the work done. We managed to fix ropes to a height of 6300 meters. In the evening, after dinner, Ralph said that tomorrow promises snow and strong winds. Collectively decide that tomorrow everything down in Depo-camp, take ropes and entered them in the 1st camp for further work. Then we can with a clear conscience down to rest at ABC. In our tent reigned peace and tranquility. Tired, we fall into a deep sleep



July, 12. At 6 am we all gathered for breakfast, where a lively discussed the weather forecast, which promises a long clearance. After breakfast each got rations for legitimate chips. As Ralph said: "Potatoes - is not only a storehouse of energy, but also a source of vitamin C and minerals." On this occasion, you can not argue with him



July 13. At three o'clock in the morning on my phone load signal - time to get up. We are going to take turns, and then light the burner and warmed in a pan of water. For breakfast, just coffee "3 in 1" and a chocolate bar for two (photo Pivtsov B.)



We were lucky approach to the rocky couloir we paved the avalanche. In its wake, we reached the beginning of the railing and down the ropes, we began to rise slowly. Gerlinde works in front, it is a powerful two jackals (jackal - specially designed for the passage of the steep ice), pulling out of ice and snow rope. Everyone else on the rails, step by step, up extinct Metro centimeters its Zhumar (Jumar - a device for moving up the rope railing). I go to the penultimate, just behind me, Tommy, it goes without a helmet. On top of a constant stream of something fray, the snow, the ice chunks. Often he arrives in a helmet, and Tommy tries to dodge the flying top trouble. Behind my back more and more often heard swearing and pokrikivaniya.

 - Not more ice !, - Tommy screams, but no one hears all the already high in front and begin to climb to the snow ridge



July 15. In the morning it began to snow, we were facing a dilemma: to go in the 2nd camp overnight or descend into the advanced base camp to rest. We decided to wait for Darek deuce-Tommy and decide together what to do next. For our four overnight in the 2nd camp would not stir, but took up general fatigue. Darek and Tommy came, dropping heavy backpacks, they all kind shown that up to 2nd camp today, they do not reach. The solution came with itself, all go down (Photo Darek C)



July 20. We set up on the hard work, struggle with deep snow on a snowy ridge. Weather favored us Clear below. Sometimes the wind Cloudy rises, and then we go in a fog. By the afternoon reached the cliffs, and there to the camp at hand (Photo Darek C)



21 July. Darek and Tommy are preparing to leave. Despite the bad weather, we're going to pick up and a tent. We leave the top at 9 o'clock in the morning



On top of a ridge wind blows small avalanche. Basil pulls out from under the snow railing and we slowly go up. In the afternoon, we still went to the 2nd camp. Here in the wide snowy ridge of snow above the knee, but the place of the camp there are only 100 meters



By the time Ralph with Gerlinde I could cook a pot of green tea with honey (Photo Darek C)



(photo Pivtsov B.)



...



July 23. Gerlinde was 100 meters away from us, when suddenly an avalanche near hooted. According to the direction of motion of the avalanche it was clear that we did not hook, but the wind was in our favor. And 10 seconds later we were covered with a cloud of snow dust. Was not scared, and think that we could be in a radius of the avalanche cone, did not want to. We got up, brushed the snow and waited for our friends (Photo Darek C)



July 25th. According to the forecast - the storm on the mountain will be hosting a week. We have decided to retire to the bottom "Chinese" base camp. A chance to go up the mountain in the next few days there. According to our data, the wind speed increased to 100 km / h. In this weather on the mountain is nothing to do. It remains only to descend to the base camp to rest (photo Pivtsov B.)



August 4. The sun lit up the tent at 7 o'clock in the morning. On this day, we have been working all day, and five have reached the 3rd camp could before, but deep snow slowed down the pace of our movement. At sunset, we arranged the meeting and at the same time celebrated Darek's birthday. We were able to congratulate the birthday boy, treated meat and Vassily identified several milligrams of alcohol, which spread water



August 5. 6am yesterday was Darek's birthday, and today my son turned 3 years old. Wish son: "It so happens that when you were born, I kneaded the snow of Lenin Peak in the Pamirs. And each of your birthday your father in the cold, away from you. But all the warmth of his love for you, my son Isatai, I wish you to grow healthy and us joy! "(Photo Pivtsov B.)



Amount of work done today, gave a good chance the next day sag route to the 4th camp. At the end of the railing he was left ropes and rock outfit. A good beginning has been made, it remains only to adopt a common plan of action for tomorrow. We decided to go to the same severe style: three tents take with us, as well as food, clothes and take the gas, it is likely that there will be a window of good weather, and perhaps we will have a chance to make an attempt to reach the summit (Photo Darek Z. )



August 6th. Tommy decided to go down to the base and wait for us there. This fact has made some adjustments, we Basil to take his tent Darek. On the weight of backpacks is not affected, but will have to make room in the tent seriously. Trail yesterday the wind had covered, so the walk was not difficult. Before the rocky ridge we found a tangle of old fixed ropes. At 4 pm we reached the place of the lower 4th camp, at an altitude of about 7,900 meters (photo Darek C)



August 7th. When we woke up, it was snowing. During snowfall makes no sense to go upstairs to get wet down jackets. We called meteorologist Charlie, he reassured us that the snow will stop going at nightfall. Soon we began to end with food and gas



August 8. The weather was excellent, dense overcast beneath our feet. The sky is only the bright sun, the snow lies thick on the rocks. We felt dropped about 40-50 cm. Above our tents old railings all the snow, the direction of movement is hard to imagine. Avalanche everywhere, even on the dome tent. At 9 am we leave the processing way, the first working Basil, on the insurance I Gerlinde tray rope. It turned out to be the most dangerous traverse on snow slope. Only Basil began to cut slope from under him away snow board, but he refrained sharply hammered into the side of a jackal. Next was accurate (Photo Darek C)



August 20th. Today, the whole day was a strong wind, 6 hours reached the 3rd camp. Snow on the crest of a lot of places. Fighting the wind, which carried the snow, take a lot of effort. All OK!



For such a lift in our special shoes, "cat", which strongly reinforced at boot climber to overcome the ice relief (Photo by Ralph D.)



Another problem - the transition from 1 to 2 in the camp of the couloir flowing meltwater, fixed ropes continuously obledenevala and freezes into ice (photo by Ralph D.)



From a strong wind had to hide, we huddled (photo Pivtsov B.)



(photo Pivtsov B.)



August 21. We woke up at 4 am, the weather is good. They went out at 6 o'clock in the 4th camp. No wind, no clouds, only sun and deep snow in some places (photo Pivtsov B.)



August 22nd. Last night made the difficult decision to use this day for rest and treatment route. We spent a very cold night at 8000 meters (photo Pivtsov B.)



August 23 - good weather and no longer have the last chance to reach the summit. Where did the strength I did not know, but 12:00 superhuman effort, but we were able to. At 7 o'clock in the evening all our assault team reached the summit! (photo Pivtsov B.)



In the morning we Basil Pivtsov moved from the place of spending the night at an altitude of 8300 m in the direction of the 4th camp. At 10:30 successfully reached it. Everybody feels well, we plan to go down as low as possible today



For Maksut Zhumaeva, Basil and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner Pivtsov - is 14 eight-th! We did it! Now Kazakhstan for the 1st place in the world rankings of the 28 people on the planet who have ascended all 14 x 8000+, three from Kazakhstan! And most importantly, all three - Maksut, Basil and Denis made all the climbing without oxygen equipment! (photo by Darek C)

That's all



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