The Arctic Circle. Norilsk. Tundra.

Traveling mostly in the European part of Russia, and I could not think that he had been in the Arctic, and in the near future. However, thanks to an employer, I had the opportunity to live to see the place before that represented only by researches and the Explanatory Notes.

On a business trip, I probably will not be frank, but his impression of the northern city of Norilsk and the surrounding tundra tell, and, more importantly, show.
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Only four hours by plane from night lights shining Petersburg - and the landing approach from the low clouds, the porthole stretches many lakes and dull green hilly land. Lucky House was not summer, 15 degrees, so the icy wind at the exit from the passenger compartment does not make sense of dissonance in August. ... But the sky grayer below, here it is - the Arctic, even if not many-to frosts and drifts.

After Pulkovo Airport Alykel seems small and podzapuschennym. On the way to the city from the windows of the picture even more depressing - from the abandoned buildings of the military, to the suburbs Kayerkan, shabby and gray in the morning Khmara. Surely such Norilsk?

We arrived at the hotel, satisfied, looking work plan and, while there is time, we go to see the city. I myself then in their spare time and in the evenings, the benefit they give out very bright and sunny, more than once it was engaged ...



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Impression of the city of course remains ambivalent. Rather, uneven. On the one hand - gray houses, shabby streets, high prices, dump, the ruins, the history of the disease, the memory of the camps.

On the other - Landcruiser, delicacies from venison and fish, foreigners in the hotel and the museums and industry. Encouraged by the absence of wooden slums, often in the European part of the more or less around urban settlements. However, skeletons and piles of unfinished nedosnosov.

He drew attention to the vast majority of ads apartments. For the first time I saw on sale neoschipannuyu frozen partridge. I thought the city would be a lot Nenets - turned Azerbaijanis and direct flight from Baku.

For the first time the people themselves heard stories about "corporate solidarity ', descending from above for the whole city: the choice of the place of employment to which airline to fly. It is interesting to feel about the idea that besides the plane out of here and do not get out much. Vividly after a variety of routes, buses, trains, electric trains at.

With us on the trip we went to two experts, originally from Norilsk, respectively, are now living in St. Petersburg and Moscow. And between them, they have not expressed regret that he returned for a few days, go back to the "mainland."

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