Berbera, Somaliland

Ilya Varlamov during travel here and here

Somalia around the world associated with pirates. Most people can not even imagine where Somalia is what the political situation there, the weather or the economy. Nobody knows Somali scholars, singers and writers. But everyone knows the Somali pirates. Pirates came here 10 years ago. Due to the pollution of waters of the Gulf of Aden, the problems started with the fish. Local fishermen, having lost the only income, began to plunder the polluters. Almost the entire population of the Somali pirates support. Pirates - a local hero. If you ask a Somali boy, who he wants to be, the answer is almost certainly "Pirates!" Pirates of local representation - this is not the robbers. This brave warriors who take White compensation for slaughtered sea. From 2008 to 2011, Somali pirates have received according to various estimates ranging from 450 to 650 million dollars ransom. Unfortunately, almost all of the money ended up in the pockets of local potentates - they buy weapons, expensive cars and luxurious mansions were built. In recent years, piracy there blindfolded. White learned to protect their vessels from bandits and pirates have earned enough to lay low.
33 photos





I wake up from the unbearable heat in a dusty barracks on the outskirts of the Berbers. Outside, the dark, at 5:30 am local time, in my room 35. The hotel turned off the electricity and air conditioning stopped to give the invigorating coolness. Creep out into the street. After 30 minutes of waking up the chef and I order coffee, croissants and fresh a newspaper. In a newspaper fresh main news:

"In the center of Somalia's capital near the presidential palace, a bomb exploded, which was founded in the car, told the Reuters news agency, law enforcement officials and local residents. According to police, the explosion killed at least 10 people. Presumably, the explosion was aimed at the destruction of high-ranking officials of the government of the state. The agency reports that, despite the significant improvement in the security situation in Mogadishu since the Islamists overran the city associated with "Al-Qaeda", bombings and killings still occur there often enough. »

"At the time you have left Mogadishu," - says the waiter - "Who would be stuck there. The airport is closed, the city cordoned off, looking for Islamists »

01. In the morning I go to the local military base. Filming is not allowed. While I was led to photograph the head of the secret weapon Somalian military.



02. Head of sitting in a room in a huge leather chair at an empty table. Behind him stands two empty closet and hanging old map, where there is still the Soviet Union. On the table is the only book, "The military strategy in a democracy." I do not really understand the title of chief, but he is treated very respectfully. Let this be a general. His aides asked me where I was.
 - From Russia, - I say
 - How do you do - I asked the general to the terrible Russian. Actually, I made out a miracle that phrase ...
 - Well, how do you know Russian?
 - Jo ELI elrvichil uaego in schtkola rousaei - he understands what the general says it is almost impossible, even in the room terrible acoustics and echo greatly complicates the task. But he refuses to speak in English.

We talked for about 20 minutes as I understood, he learned Russian in the Soviet Union, where he studied military science. He asked me what I want delat.I replied that I wanted to learn more about the pirates and shoot the harbor. The general said that there are no problems, but he wants $ 50. I said that I do not understand, for which I pay him. If he does not want to tell me about pirates, I just go and find another. The general was offended: "Russian have always been greedy. From this, all your problems »



03. Another general. In the end, we agreed to $ 10. For ten I was given a soldier who rode with me on the boat.



04. Somali men are doing now repairs to barracks.



05. Soldiers. Pay attention to the shoes, it is all different. Soldiers give only his pants and shirt. Shoes they buy themselves. Therefore, someone walks in rubber slippers, and someone in funny socks.



06. Lunch.



07. Apparently, the Somali war well can only protect trees from goats. See which strengthen erected to more than one kid not picked up to the young trees.



08. I go to the local fishermen, to rent a boat.



09. It is on these boats the pirates are operating.



10. Luke



11. And this is Mahmoud, my guard.



12. Fishermen tell me about pirates. Each left a pile of tales and legends. To distinguish truth from fiction impossible. Someone's brother took one huge ship, and then received a $ 5 million ransom. Someone grabbed one oil tanker and one allegedly in lieu of oil transported tons of heroin. In general, I write these stories you will not.



13. The boat sits a soldier for $ 10.



14. We are sailing somewhere.
 - Where we are sailing - I'm interested
 - In the sea. You wanted to see how seize ships
 - And we will seize the ship?
 - No of course! Just to show the place where seized
 - And what is this place?
 - Nothing, just a sea
 - And why should we go sailing?
 - You wanted to see how seize the ships! - Does not understand the soldiers, I want it to



15. Decided not to swim far away and I was shown by the example of a small fishing boat.



16. In the harbor are old ships, as a monument to bygone victories.



17. Rode hour by boat fisherman has requested $ 30 for gasoline.



18. In 1974, the Soviet Union and Somalia have entered into a full-blown treaty of friendship and cooperation for 20 years. We arrived in the country several thousand Soviet military advisers and specialists. The armed forces of Somalia began to receive Soviet arms and military equipment. In return, the Soviet Union has at its disposal a number of strategic facilities in Somalia. In Berbera built an entire city block, which is still called the "Moscow". 40 years ago, there lived a family of the Soviet military. Today - this is the coolest and most prestigious area of ​​the city. This is the best home. Everything else - sheds of rags and twigs. This picture I took today.



19. This shot took Mitya Aleshkovsky in 2010. As can be seen, for 3 years, nothing has changed. Just the right fence completed. Stability.



20. November 13, 1977 President of Somalia announced denunciation of the treaty with the Soviet Union. "And that's what struck me - how quickly one can become the enemy - recalled a Soviet diplomat. - In the morning we are greeted by Somali colleagues, smiling at each other. In the evening, we were enemies. For Moscow, lulled by tales of unbreakable friendship, it was an unpleasant surprise. And for us - a nightmare. In the houses where they lived Soviet family, cut off electricity and water. Furious crowds flocked around, shouting threats and insults, hurled stones. Difficulties began with meals - in Soviet stores do not sell. It was possible to shoot some wild pigs whose meat is considered inedible in Somalia. " All Soviet citizens had to leave the country within a week. Soviet property in Somalia was again confiscated.



21. "Our group began to cross the airport, which proved to be a trap. There's just humiliated over us. Behind us we were sent special flights - passenger "Elah", which led by experienced military pilots in civilian clothes. When night came on aircraft landing on the runway completely cut down electricity. Only a miracle and skill of our pilots saved from disaster.

"The queue for customs clearance has become infinitely long. Women and children were sleeping on the floor, began to ache. A customs slowly, day and night, one after another, gutted suitcases and bags. Taken almost everything, including the well-worn children's little things. Shakes customs suitcase and simply rob. He laughs and puts vending him things, says: "This is - mine." The turn to one of our specialist. When the customs officer started a mockery of his family, scattered along the floor children's clothes, it is a hefty guy, I hit him as it should. And here we all unarmed, armed with full bottles of "Pepsi-Cola" and the wall stood, ready to fight. Those realized that any mess with shooting at unarmed end badly for them. Chickened out. There is just and our marines arrived. The thing just went faster. I flew last on the AN-12, I was not at all to inspect the customs. Well, when we arrived to the homeland, we had to sign a non-disclosure ... & quot;



By the way, the desire to punch someone like me should not leave for the fifth day. Unfortunately, there is no our amphibious force, and in general I'm a tourist. So you have to endure.

22. In Somalia, the Russian left point based in the port of Berbera, a purpose-built communications center, tracking station, store for tactical missiles, a large fuel storage, living quarters and a half thousand people, an airport and a lot of weapons.



23. Here, as described by the head of the detachment Berbera Soviet ships Rudolf vote 40 years ago, "a small town of Berbera, without any interest, except for the most squalid suburbs, sailors nicknamed" Cheryomushki ". According to the stories, the local authorities had been brought here from the city and the surrounding area all miserable housing - huts of the boxes, pieces of iron, cardboard and rags. Stunning poverty, the "bottom"! Contrasts of XX century! The population in the bulk, poor. In the morning at the gates of the port is exhausted crowd of men, barefoot, in long robes in the calculation to get at least some work. At night, some here and spend the night on the ground, wrapped in his robe, in a sleeping bag. »



24. For 40 years, nothing has changed.



25. This is the best house Berber. Better because a Soviet. Inside, of course, is nothing other than the concrete bag. There are no sewers, no water, no furniture. It's nothing. a concrete bag of rags.



26. But the people are sincere.



27. Prosperous Somali, he has a car! See what he has built a garage near the entrance.



28. And in Somalia, there is no furniture. That's all there is. Maximum - is here such improvised seat. In the houses of all sleep and eat on the floor. Eat, by the way, by hand. Smalyvayut food and fill up a ball in his mouth.



29. Somali cemetery.



30. Somali desert.



31. Camels here, by the way, is not delicious.



32. Near the city is the source that supplies water Berbera.



33. In the evening went to sea ... the water was unpleasantly warm.

In the evening, I call the airline to check the departure time of my flight to Djibouti. The airlines say, "Sorry, sir, but we canceled the flight because they could not sell all the tickets. The next flight will be the next day, but it we just were able to sell all the tickets. In general, your ticket canceled, good luck to you, God bless you. »



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