A trip to the south of Russia. Bashny.Net

The idea of ​​going to the south of Russia for several years flashed in my head. Travel bought a new M1NSK M125X. Frankly: sea ever seen, I look at it, take a dip. The original plan was thinking to pass 7000 kilometers and visit the Sea of ​​Azov, Black Sea and Caspian Sea, but eventually visited only on the latter.

Passed the following route: Gomel - Bryansk - Eagle - Voronezh - Volgograd - Astrakhan - Makhachkala - Grozny - Pyatigorsk - Rostov-on-Don - Voronezh - Kursk - Eagle - Bryansk - Gomel.

Total Travel 4973 kilometers.

56 pics + text.





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15 days and 14 nights spent as a wild man. All nights were held outdoors in any weather.

Prior to this, the route has been developed and adjusted the layout of luggage on a motorcycle carried out maintenance of the motorcycle. Which, by the way, was just bringing it to a good technical condition and conduct routine MOT. Also with them was taking parts that can fail, mainly electrical parts. Picked, of course, wire and tape.

Classic two-stroke M1NSK so I bought and I know it like the five fingers, this technique can be repaired knee is a simple and enduring motorcycle. There are a couple of keys, wire and tape - believe that any problems can be resolved. Remember, as a classic "Minsk" showed himself in the journey Top Gear Vietnam? That's just it. Fuel consumption on the trip was 2, 5 liters per 100 kilometers.



Only use cards, no accessories - travel was in full "avtonomke" went savage. When stopped for the night, I tried as much as possible to hide from prying eyes. However, sometimes there is an idea that with me if something happens, then I only have one year to find some mushroom ...



So, on the calendar June 26 - in the way! Drove away from the house, photographing the equipped bike.



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Food slowly. Bike is not the fastest - average speed get 40 miles per hour. Early days of the journey is always the most joyful: going cheerful and fun, all interesting, life is beautiful.



The cultural program began only in Volgograd, where I arrived on the fourth day. The path to it was about 1300 kilometers. Such areas I call simple distillers. By this time it had almost grab a penalty for the burnt head light bulb and replace the ignition coil haywire after being hit by a downpour at Orel.



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On the fifth day of the journey began Caspian steppes. Visited Salt Lake Baskunchak. Locals told that it is the most salty and the largest lake-like backgrounds. The salt concentration is so high that, while in the water, it is difficult even to stand on their feet - literally pushes the water to the surface. The salt concentration in the lake Baskunchak reaches 37 percent of the total composition of water - more than in the famous Dead Sea, where salt is "only" 33 percent



Steppe road between Volgograd and Astrakhan. To Kazakhstan just a few tens of kilometers.



Heat forty. Periodically give rest motorcycle.



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And here is the Saray-Batu - the medieval city, the capital of the Golden Horde. Somewhere in the eighth day of the journey. A few years ago there was built scenery for a historical film "Horde". Less than a year, the crew finished its work in the area, there was a question about the demolition of the scenery. But in negotiations with regional authorities and representatives of business, it was decided not to disassemble the building and turned into a cultural center. Now here give tours.



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In Astrakhan, did not stay long, just went in Makhachkala.



Once out of town - saved a turtle. They are there a lot of creeps on the road, often killed under the wheels. It was the only one that I have helped to cross the road. On the other tried to ignore, or still be there turtles dragged across the road.



Food-eating, and came to me a bad idea to cut off the path to the unfinished road. Did not want to do a circle in more than 50 kilometers, and will pass only 25 ... But not so simple: the road was "killed", but still lost motokurtku - had to look, and there wire "gas" pulled

Heat under 45. From a conversation with the local learned that love is the motorcycle M1NSK: it does not overheat, while the Chinese mopeds "die." Our technique is respected.



Replaced the rope and went on. Several times fell into quicksand. Engine power is not enough to go - had to veer grip.

 - Come on diesel will give you - stops near the tractor. - I have 200 liters! It needs to be somewhere urgently drained, and now has 240 liters a lift ...

Russia ... I do not need, uncle, diesel fuel. Although motorcycle M1NSK and it can go.



Rode into Dagestan with apprehension. Everyone knows hot temper locals ... But nothing so I thought. Traveled from Dagestan and Chechnya ecstatic: wonderful, kind, sympathetic people! Everybody wants some way to help you, all smiles, all on the positive.

But first things first. When crossing the conditional border, it was scary, exciting. You never know who's there, there ...

 - Why are you without beam going? - Meet local ministers of the order at the post at the entrance of Dagestan.

 - So I killed the motorcycle - and lights went out ...

 - Hey, at least you Pay a small fine - we'll let you go.

 - I will not pay anything - anything not broke!

 - Okay, okay ... Let this: get up on his "Minsk" for the buck - go on all four sides.

And then I realized that they had just such a sense of humor. No problem with these guys was not, on its hind legs did not have to get up - parted amiably.



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Stopped for the night. In the morning found that letting the wheel. I had to do repairs.



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All collected, gathered himself and went straight to Makhachkala. The first thing that catches the eye in Dagestan - a huge number of "understated» Lada different models. Special chic - understated white Priora. To say that a car in Dagestan in demand - to say nothing. Perhaps that is why Priora still produce. The second highest prevalence takes a white SUV Toyota Land Cruiser.



You go - all the people you are smiling, waving, everyone wants to give us something to help. Even depeesniki welcome - stop, just to talk. There is always joking and smiling:

 - Oh, brother, and I'll wait for the whole day. What did you not put on the belt? And what kind of bike? "Minsk"? What are you, a Belarusian? You have a war? No? What dad, okay? Well, well, everything, go, do not bother me to work.

Documents I have never demanded. And some even give gifts! On one of the posts I was given a couple of bottles of mineral water.

Once I caught up with the machine, from which a man came out and gave me a bag with the words "these apricots with my personal tree", got into his car and drove away. Shock!

Food on the road, suddenly popping dog - and me. And there are not dogs - bears. Three or four pieces. Trying to whirl away, but where there ... Behind peasant went on Priora, caught up, pushed sideways dogs - threw them on the sidelines. Back on the road - then go. Would like to thank him, but it did not ...



I first saw the sea in the distance - the Caspian.



In the afternoon, was in Makhachkala. Having strayed a bit late in the afternoon I went to the right direction. And here they are - the mountains!



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But my joy was short-lived. The power of my small motorcycle, sailing, load ... I Zaehal in first gear on a purely symbolic pass 300-400 meters so (and along the route to the passes above the 1500- 2500 meters) and realized that nowhere will not do. As it later turned out to be a clogged air filter also made itself felt ...



Descending into the valley, he stopped for the night. The idea that you have to cut the route, haunted. I do not like creepy retreat. Overcome by despair. Prior to that invisible fatigue fell upon a rock. Was the tenth day of the tenth night, and in a way - decided to return home. But even here will definitely be back, because this beauty is worth it!



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Although I fate at the beginning of my days,
On the southern mountains, cut off from you,
To always remember them, there must be times:
How sweet song of my homeland,
I love the Caucasus.

Mikhail Lermontov was very fond of the Caucasus.



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In the morning, went through the familiar pass in Makhachkala. There was hoping to find a beach where you can swim. While looking for a sign that in the photo, and the beach, clocked up almost 100 kilometers.



On one of the gas stations came up to me and an elderly man asked where I was going. The answer is that to see the sights, and now I want to get to the dunes Sarah Kum.



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 - I used to live nearby. And this is my dressing. Put the bike on my private place - went there on my machine.

Tried to tell him that he will find the dune, but he insisted. Had to put the bike. Refueling host closed and took me to the place, a guided tour. Amazing people.



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Next began the Chechen Republic. Too afraid to call here - you never know what, thank goes bad. But there is no hint of the past war, banditry also not encountered.



A suburb of Grozny, a mosque and a business center. Three lanes in one direction, the other three bands - and three cars on it. All gutted, clean, modern. Where did they get so much money?



 - Just call me Gene, it is still my name to remember - Lada driver stopped to ask whether you need any help. - I've been in my life, too, so always wanted to go. Be sure to buy a scooter. By the way, in the center of Grozny can not ride a motorcycle. But do not worry - Kadyrov said travelers and tourists not to touch. Yes, drove me to spend the night.



Politely refuse, on food.

Terrible completely rebuilt. Houses, roads - everything is new. Many interesting places. The local population is the same friendly, as in Dagestan. Had a chance to talk with several Chechens. All offer spend the night with them, to feed! Proud of their motherland, respect Kadyrov. And - also an interesting point - everyone told me: "You tell me there, that we are good, we should not be afraid».

And indeed it is. You'll be treated with respect for people and their customs, you will not behave provocatively - no problems. Seen, however, some local disassembly: a crowd of people on the Priora against the crowd at Mercedes-Benz - «talking." But quietly, peacefully, without firing. The only thing that bothered me a little bit in Chechnya - a huge number of armed law enforcement representatives.



Stopped to take pictures of the sign. Nearby, ten meters, peasant jackets sold.

 - Listen to what you photograph! Let me on your cellphone! - Appeals to me the seller. Photos from him, however, did not come out. - In general, take the keys to the apartment - Live in the center of Grozny. Only then fetch them back to me, please.

Caucasus ...



To live in the center of Grozny was not able to - all offers refused. Well unusual inhabitants of the middle band that attitude!

Heat again struck the wheel. He took off his shirt.

 - Man, I can see that you are not local, but put on a T-shirt, please - appeals to me a local resident. - We do not accepted.

Dressed - and began as usual:

 - And let us help you!

Enough one of them my wheel runs in the tire - brings soundly inflated. In these countries, more grace is considered to help travelers.

As in Dagestan, the people here are just wonderful. Chechens but more restrained in emotions.



After visiting the Terrible jumped on the track and Rostov went to the side of the house. Spent the night somewhere Nazran. Then again distilled. The day was about 400 kilometers, that my speed a lot. Was going to look for a place to camp, but remembered motoputeshestvennika Yura, whom he met on the first day of the journey. I called him with this sentence: we will pass the night another 300 kilometers, the morning will be in Rostov there and meet. He agreed - so, in a way.



The suspicion that this is not the best idea arose after 50 kilometers. But it was already dark, to find a place to sleep was not possible. Sang songs, danced at bus stops, otmuchilsya another 150 kilometers. Was dawn, and wanted to sleep in earnest. Turned into a field track, drove 15 meters, the bike skidded and I drove into the corn. Tears rolled "Minsk" on the road again, trying to get under way - Books. Helping feet, grass clutch, drive another 10 meters. Stopped because lock the front wheel. Tears and understood the reason - sticky mud. Something between a black soil and clay. Cleaned the wheels, again trying to go - through the meter the same picture. On top of all burnt clutch. Unloaded the bike and made it to the road literally on his hands.

After this no longer wanted to sleep - went further. As a result, for more than a day drove 750 kilometers to Minsk motorcycle with an average speed of 40 kilometers per hour. Few stopped almost did not eat. Yura, I could not get through. Found halt for Rostov - fell to sleep.



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Woke up - again in a way. Here and there, there are colleagues.



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Long or short, but I came home. Motorcycle passed the test with flying colors: burned out light bulb in a way, "died" ignition coil, wire broke "gas", twice had to darn camera wheel. Engine, though a bit "zasoplivil", and the next morning after traveling and did not wound up. As it turned out, the reason for it was the same coil. Budget Travel - 350,000 Belarusian rubles and 7,000 Russian (all-inclusive).



I do not like to retreat, but the probability of returning home is not under its own power forced to redraw the route. Power bike for mountain passes is not enough, which also contributed to a clogged air filter. It's a shame that there was only 100 kilometers from Mount Elbrus, but never saw him. Be sure to come back and "conquer" unruly Caucasus. These beauties are worth it!

And in Chechnya and Dagestan can safely go - there are good people, such will not perish.

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