Harlem unfavorable low-rise suburb of gangsters on the streets ...

In the second visit to the US I'm in New York I wanted to see only one place that did not have time for the first time. About Harlem I learned as a child, about the same as on the Brighton Beach and Chinatown. Here are just a representation of him was as a low-rise disadvantaged outskirts of gangsters on the streets ...





If you want to see the evil blacks with guns, I disappoint you: Harlem is not the same that a few decades ago, so those characters will not be fasting. But negros are no guns, District flavor, good architecture and even the Russian Orthodox church!
It is said that in the Bronx, Northern District of New York, to meet with the probability of severe dark-skinned patsanchik much higher, but I have not tested.

For those who do not know: Harlem - part of the island of Manhattan, located just north of Central Park. New York Avenue - they are straight arrows, sparkling with countless traffic lights. But if in the southern part of Manhattan, these arrows are lost among the skyscrapers and moves more like a maze, in Harlem, with its relatively low-rise buildings, they look harmonious.



The American school buses. From childhood dream to ride this! With driver Otto from The Simpsons at the wheel. :)



Guide Lonely Planet, which I took with me to the States, I was immediately disappointed: they say better to come to Harlem on a Sunday morning when the locals dressed up and the whole family are sent to their churches. Alas, it was Thursday, so watch the mini-carnival failed. But the churches something on the spot! They are many and they are different. There are big and beautiful Baptist churches.



... But most of the local church communities is used to service premises in ordinary homes, reporting on their existence at best some guise. Most of these communities - quite closed for "their", and outsiders know about them is not required.



What if negros in this day dressed up, the guide did not say. So I decided to follow the standard tourist rule: if you do not know what to look, start with the central square. Area as luck would have turned out to be not at all flamboyant.



Pleased with only the abundance of colors on the facade of a local shopping center with a children's clothing and grandmother at the bus stop, just to remind of Russia.



But just a hundred meters away, I found a cool graffiti. Finally, anything on the subject!



...



From here I went to just wander the streets in search of something interesting. The same lesson, as I understand, many locals indulge. It seems to be a weekday, but on the streets full of people strolling without a specific purpose, occasionally fraternize with someone and stared at showcases.



95% of the population of Harlem - skinned. Basically, those who lived here during the time of the ghetto and their descendants.



The local market.



Streets perpendicular avenues, especially in the southern part of Harlem - it simply is a sample of beauty and order, it is not an astringent recent criminal record area.



At the end of XIX - early XX century (it looks like it was then built these houses) Harlem was an ordinary suburb, and only with the 1920s it began to settle negros.



By the 60 th year for various reasons, the majority of intellectuals (including blacks themselves), this left, leaving Harlem drug traffickers, dysfunctional families and logically emerging against this backdrop that criminal groups. In the past 20 years, city authorities have more or less put things in order, and now the situation is relatively calm here.



So many of these homes have seen.



But here everything looked so well, that I started checked with the card, whether I'm in the area that I need, or have already jumped beyond. The word «Harlem» was written exactly on top of the place where I was.



In general, looking at the idyllic south of Harlem, I decided to move further north along the major streets, studying the local people.



The gangsters, alas, did not come across. Anyway, here negros peace: the daily shootings took place. A few days later I was in Baltimore, so there is more action.



...



Somehow, many restaurants and shops are closed. There were associations with the morning of the 1st of January in Russian cities.



White people are rare, but occur. For him to say that they felt any discomfort.



...



It is said that the former ghetto is gradually transformed into a prestigious area, where families move. The southern part left that impression.



Turning to one of the streets, I found a cool graffiti on the famous natives of Harlem. Very near here is the famous Apollo Theatre, which I somehow passed by without sfotkatsya. On its stage were great jazz and blues performers from Ella Fitzgerald to Stevie Wonder.



Who else? Yes, there is only one: boxers, basketball players, movie stars ... Planet Harlem.



A separate issue for the region - hip-hop. Here - the cradle of this musical genre. From here out, and many well-known rappers from Tupac Shakur and ending with Puff Daddy.



Bus stop. Santa hat - in any any drug lord in retirement. :)



Look, what a rarity! It seems that there is still from time immemorial. I am sure that police and firefighters can call on him now.



African-American hair salon. I do not know whether they are able to cut the white, but when I did this photo of nowhere ran aunt and began yelling saying what the fuck I'm here fotkayu. I did not know what the fuck, so I just said, «Sorry!» And slowly but surely retreated.



I do not know whether it is connected with a criminal record area, but in Harlem so many people with disabilities. Some just walk with sticks, but many of those who moves in a wheelchair. I think that is a good thing: for some reason, we in the streets if the wheelchair, it is likely - a beggar. Here stroller - not a sentence, but just a slightly different way of life.



Disabled people here go shopping, socialize, simply stroll ... it seems pretty good feel, and if electric wheelchair as this lady ... They go in a few times faster than pedestrians!



Well, those dashing times in health still retained prefer large.



The windows of many schools hang portraits of Obama. I do not need to explain why.



Workers of all countries, unite!



For example, clicking the left-to-right, I moved to the north of the district.



Houses on the perpendicular streets looked not so presentable.



Courtyard.



Well, just as we do !!!



Here at last I reached the northern border of Harlem. Further, according to the map, starting blocks of the northern edge of Manhattan - Washington Heights and Inwood.



Here the New York really becomes like a provincial town.



Managers in jackets and ties do not belong here.



...



A little aside - sleeping quarters.



Fifth Avenue is nothing like the one that used to see everything. Only in the distance you can see the spire of the Empire State.



Wheelbarrow coolest kids.



After the whole area, I decided to go to the western shore of Manhattan. On the way to the cemetery came across a steep Gothic church.



...



And opposite the gate of the cemetery - a familiar blue dome with an Orthodox cross! At first I could not believe my eyes. Somewhere on the edge of the area with 95% black population, lost among the surrounding houses, there is a temple in honor of the Holy Fathers. It is a pity, but was closed. You never know where you can find it by accident!



More hundred meters of descent - and in front of me opened a magnificent view of the Hudson River. On the other side of the river - is New Jersey. Walk through the Harlem safely came to an end.



Summary of no do not come to mind. I visited - and well. In principle, an unusual area in terms of color, but consider it a walk in the extreme (at least during the day) is not worth it. But if you're like me then, move on and look to you from planned city with a predominantly African-American population, in order to poprivyknut, spend a few hours in Harlem definitely makes sense.

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