Move can only reindeer or snowmobile.

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This picture is not made immediately start the day. But I shall place it in the beginning, it was clear what it was about. Base herders - a lonely hut and tundra around. The nearest settlement is about 50 km. Naturally there are no roads. Move can only reindeer or snowmobile.



Wake up - tea. This is true Chinese herders drink the beverage without exaggeration somewhere every half-hour.



At this time of the year in the north of his strength polar night, so that the street still dark, because pictures of interior decoration and other entourage.



Everywhere hang raznoraznaya materiel, some tools, and so forth. Equipment belonging have long left this world to people, so that steel artifacts, things like that along with new products such as ski mask are placed throughout the cottage, wandering out of the corner on a nail, and so on. d.



Dried tOborki someone, it's something like the well-known sapogov- "Bolotnikov," but made of "Coiba" (skins removed from the legs of deer).



Kerosene stove ... until the base of the little "dizilka" bought herders chipped, it was an indispensable source of light almost around the clock darkness of polar night. Trouble-free, always ready shimmered now.



Peter. Great person. His father was a very famous and skilful reindeer herder, a multiple winner of the annual reindeer racing. But Peter himself somehow did not become a reindeer herder, he is in charge of the whole economy - chum-worker. (Incidentally, the tent-workers and is now taught in vocational schools). Later, Peter show his library - reading time. In the background, a small DVD player, while I was plaguing bytya in those regions, thanks to this device, I was forced to witness all of the series "Forester". )))



Outside. Powered vysheozvuchenny diesel generator.



And it was a big surprise for me, free advertising. Cases that this "damn" I discovered shortly before the trip to the north, and he knew only 2 places in St. Petersburg, where it is sold - a very delicious thing, if you do not try, do it - you will not regret. In general, this product will meet there I did not expect ... great advertising, I believe)) Now the truth has a lot to notice where the "damn", even have different firms, but the real "Slavic gift" - not to be confused. (Someone from the company reads this psto? Where are my royalties?)))



Remembering the fixation. Generally, when it comes to time, there is something quite different: tyanuchee, tangible, is as valuable as a knife or a fuel and the same as they are subject. (Hopefully clearly explained).



Outside, the dawn is breaking. In the season of working people in the house to become very much a huddle here on these bunks for four, or even more.



Starts unhurried preparation, will soon have to tundra and other deadwood to drive the herd.



Dog and them here as much as there are people, breakfast someone's scalp.



View from the end kakbe.



Reindeer-exceptional people. In recent years, I clearly grasped one banal, because the real thing, the greatest wealth of the north are not natural beauty, no resources, no Northern Lights, flora and fauna, and as you may have guessed, the main value and wealth - people.



This is not a tent, it is wood cooked.



And yet raz.A further unknown how many km - vast expanses



Herders do everything with your hands, including the sled (sleigh).



Over time the window is defrosted. That night I fell asleep, suffering from the heat, because drowned very powerful, and woke up shivering and wrapped in reindeer skins.



And to harness the reindeer to the nearest vegetation (the road from the fairy tale "Jack Frost"), there is near - the corral.



On the way.



We arrived to clear and prepare the corral (special deer enclosure) to approach the herd. Coral - a labyrinth of chambers. Herd after being driven into the corral, begin to assume dehorn, labeled, birkovat etc. And on different grounds to place the camera.



More picture.



Job - back tea.



All on-site)



And this, as I was told, a computer), are entered here this much, with a herd of deer, and which were brought, and others. Information.



Trap, some harness utensils and so on. ... Everywhere artifacts ...



What is the star of this I could not answer.



The next picture. I'll take you to the tundra ...



The view from the hut in any part of the world.



Another wonderful person - Uncle Vova. All who are in the frame, an ethnic Komi. Incidentally, in conversations with Russian Komi go at any time, so very often I do not understand anything of what he heard)



Here in this place and sawing cut as firewood and frozen carcasses than lead to the animal ecstasy dogs tied to a master's sledge.



And another picture.



And it is still possible to guess - the kitchen.



Deerskin everywhere.



More window, just like that.



Already familiar kettles, there are many pieces of perhaps 7-8. If the tip of the oven - so the water boiled.



Fixation.



I finished school in Murmansk so that this rarity could not help but impress.



I catch a rare moment when no one was there. The hut photographed almost always in secret, so as not to be an irritant. As I have co-existed out there with the guys, and how to get to there - a very different story ... as the saying goes.



Over the 4 days that I stayed away from the shepherds, we drank only the first, and then very sparingly. It's funny that in all there were only 2 of the stack, they are in front of you.



It is difficult to imagine the thought of this woman, he visited here actually). I knew she would, they see its eyes from this paper poster ...



Here is a small portion of books uncle Petit, sometimes he reads a book, then puts, not read, takes another, easily and at the same time a third reading.



Oleshko of teams.



If someone in the sled white or some other interesting color deer. What else would call it vypendrёzhnikom womanizer ... and by analogy with some mod on a sports convertible, prancing along Nevsky, for example. Funny, I believe)



Accustomed reindeer sleds from many years living close to the owner and know it well.
Therefore, the age they know and feel and what will now be the same as in the hands of the reindeer herder with them appears the knife.
Deer do not cry, no sound except the sniffing does not produce those individual scientists, knowing that their hour has come often - cry.
Such deer are usually the owners themselves do not clog, ask others to understand why ... ...



But what will happen to the glass chase you through thickets on Buran.



Picture.



Kettles and things, things, things ....



Dry malitsa - traditional clothing of reindeer herders, of course deer stitched like shirt, fur inside, top malitsa - Sovik, a cape made of thick fabric. In malitsa built as well and mittens. Odёzha very warm in there and so I drove) It gave me a person, thanks to whom I got here - Vasily, another wonderful, exceptional northerner unbending parody.



And yet zarisovochka.



Actually Vasily. The jumper and tOborkah note on the knife ...



Here it is the largest. It is a tool, like a sheath and belt herders do yourself. With these knives herders can do everything: the Kindle Fire, is, butcher the carcass, etc. etc.



Without scabbard after use.



Fresh skin.



Open spaces! Oh, there would be at least one clear denёk ... turned out to probably more sensitive pictures.



And a new generation of herders nickname - "Mafia", a good guy, he was like 33 years old, very short, funny and, it seemed to me, with a big kind heart.



Zimushka winter ...



Between times, more for leisure korotaniya in anticipation of the work, we go to rybalochku. At 15 meters from the hut - stream out water for cooking and drinking. And even with the help of lace and pins (or bad cloves) in 15 minutes nadergano 20 small ferelenok. That's ... "Mafia" nadergano more than others, that is what "Mafia»))



Oleshko.



Park), near the Museum: deer, Buran snowmobile-inomarochka all stages of the development of local transport



In summer, someone came rebetёnok. He was immediately taken control. What there Pikachu transformers ...?



At last…! We waited for this 3 days, drove the flock, for the sake of this spectacle should undertake such a long journey to this moment you know it very clearly. In general, before the arrival of the deer hut lives monotonous, tea, dominoes, movie talk, fishing ... And when the deer, everything changes.



Beginning ... Gonem herd has prepared corral.



When the deer driven to the corral, they go there do not want to begin frantically circling the entrance to the paddock until they slowly still not forced to run ... take it a few tens of minutes (at least at this time), the show is very impressive, about 1500 heads.



The reindeer corral more some time does not calm down, although they are already in it there were no visits.



This central chamber in her parties launch deer and the best shepherds they are distributed to other parts of the corral, then they are labeled deer in different ways, for example by opening a needle, on different grounds they understand what kind of deer, whose it was, and others. It the information entered into the computer) 2 people respectful of herders sit "counters" in a special booth, there ... in the background.



Deer jumping, rage ...



Dehorn, then they pass on the production of drugs to strengthen the immune system and especially for the male power ... and on the product itself, if necessary.



More picture.



And further.



The most "dusty" and unskilled work - young. Work hard, I tell you. While it's obvious.



People with "computer" data are entered.



While light - panoramka.



These have considered.



When I went back to the village, in a sleigh lying on the two-horned deer heads and other parts of the carcass. Not live with the shepherds few days of this neighborhood would certainly embarrassed. But watching the attitude of these people to their deer, well absorbed by these animals - their whole life, and vice versa, deer live thanks to the shepherds who spend months in the tundra, the watchman deer, helping them see the light, protecting from predators, small porazitov and poachers . So that the picture of butchering, skinning, etc. Are quite a clear and calm sight.



Dinner.



Twilight, somewhere in the fifth hour in the afternoon.



"Charmed" poster fascinated with herders.



Tea, tea, tea ... kinoshka, tea, tea, tea ... domino



For breakfast, lunch and dinner here and herders in the nearest village - venison. (in soup, with pasta, with rice in blood and meat patties, etc.) Miracle! I'm not talking about the local mash, a jam of forest and marsh berries, fish for lake and river, wet and frozen, salted and smoked, etc ... etc. Novikov restaurants with their nervous "smoke", for example))



Very tasty dietary brew.



Some things look davolno juicy in the surroundings) inside something like a spark for the Buran.



For tea every herder has a cup and a bowl of steel. The cup is filled to the brim with hot drink, then is drunk from saucers ...



Last.
Well, not an easy day came to an end. Here now cut off diesel and all around amazing plunge into deafening silence, occasionally interrupted by barking dogs. In this silence and yasneet otchischaestsya mind and spirit. North of the thing is ... you probyvat, it does not explain. Special thanks to all herders, extraordinary people. Viewers of attention - merci and all soperezhivshim - special thanks.



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