Proenza Schouler Fall-Winter 2013-2014

Commenting on the new collection of Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez, will have to apply to all the great number of synonymous words "softness". So, tenderness, delicacy, fragility, slenderness, and more feminine, sensitive, touching, velvety and silky. The designers themselves have identified the leitmotif of the collection as a "soft in all its manifestations" - in the lines and silhouettes, in the texture, color, mood.

Let's start with silhouettes - sixties, rounded shoulder line and sleeves, soft transition from narrow to wide, close-fitting. Such things new reading Cristobal Balenciaga, but with an obvious simplification of forms in the direction of convenience, comfort, freedom of movement. What is fashion for life and not for the catwalk, designers emphasized the clear choice in favor of shoes on a small heel - all models were supplemented with exquisite sharp-nosed seed pans.

But despite the abundance of silhouettes and forms related more to the classics of fashion, this collection of nostalgic still will not name. The duo Proenza Schouler keenly feels not only the present but also the breath of tomorrow - designers have often proved this in his previous collections.





Collection of materials and textures - soft, comfortable and very technologically advanced. Buklirovannaya wool, but so tight knit that just wanted to touch it to believe it really boucle (white coats, jackets, white and black short dress at the beginning of the collection), structured tulle netting of sophistication - Jack McCullough compared it with a layer of fresh Snow (long white dress with an asymmetrical brim).

Model of a material with a black and white colorful print, at first glance, like the skin, turned out to be made of silky crepe. Due to the complicated process of processing-tech fabric sewn from her dresses and suits with a skirt looked very three-dimensional. Material, similar to a dense embroidery, created through the process of "supersonic welding." In another case, the role of structure in the long-sleeved blouses and dresses played a vertical thin, creating the effect of motion chain.

With the color scheme collection had a real paradox. Even contrasting black and white combinations - also used in the collection of ecru, pale mint and steel gray - looked not "hard", but very elegant and delicate. Secret - again soft silhouettes and textures, smoothing even the most graphically color combinations.

In the black-and-white ensemble of futuristic sweaters and skirts made of feathers designers used the principle degrade - the transition from one color to another. Many would think that tenderness and softness - a word from the vocabulary of modern high-speed, highly pragmatic, sverhtehnologichny reality. Error. It all depends on who and how uses them.