One day in Svaneti Bashny.Net

One of the residents of Moscow in early November of this year, he traveled to Georgia and would like to tell you about a day in the life of Svaneti. This is how the author of this region: Svaneti, guys, this is Georgia, but it is so different, that very often I found myself thinking that I'm in a completely different country. I spent about a week in Svaentii, visiting different villages, monuments, meet different people. One evening, returning to the guest house, and came to dinner, talked with the owners - there are more interesting things to see? In the end, we agreed to the point that I was offered to see how local Svans wash gold. Interesting? Not a word, of course fun! It turns out that in Svaneti wash gold and this is not what a government agency and a rural peasants of autumn begin to wash some gold! Why the fall? First, is not so much work in the field (the field and they are quite large and a lot of work), plus cows, goats, poultry, and the house itself, are constantly time-consuming. Secondly, in the fall the water level falls, and because it brings water from the mountains of gold grains, and shoals that show you can really find gold!

Waking up before dawn, looked out the window, a low gray sky, the stars are not visible. I smoked a cigarette, went to bed.





(9:30) The next climb is much later. We woke the owners - it's time for breakfast. In the dining room besides me, two girls from Kiev. We arrived a couple of days in Svaneti. In the evening of the first day, when they came, I was frightened of heavy rise in the mountains, but they are not afraid and climbed to 2700. Well done TEENS, they by the way, traveling alone on Georgia and not afraid of anything.



11:09) And it is our friend - Swan with a sonorous name Emo! The first thing I asked him who had given such a name. It turned out, is short for a longer name, which he could not accurately recall. There was a version with Emanuel but then we did not develop this idea is not good, not good, but still such a posh Georgian uncle, but a name. In general, we met and went gardens - gardens in the river ...



(11:20) We pass by the building, which is very old days was the home of the local princes, then in the not very old times here made the sports complex. In particular, there is a good school for the fight was. USSR sunk into oblivion, and the long time home-gym-lock standing unattended. But there were money and someone began to reconstruct it.



(11:24) On the way to the river met the old man with two oxen - he goes to the field to weed the ground.



11:28) And it is the home of our friend Emo. Vintage assembled and hung by the stem to the top of the legs. At Svan sure there is one dish of cornmeal, I forgot the name but I did not like the taste. I would just boiled corn, and so eat.



(11:33) In the courtyard was spotted grandmother Emo. She carefully plastered a huge gap between the two basins. I think many have guessed already - is a moonshine Svan. Inside a huge mass of fermented apples. At the exit of the, with apple aroma kapets sho! But I do not drink that much in general affects all Georgians and I called the wrong Muscovite. Yes, all the Russian who came here, according to the Svan, drink and sometimes so th th!



(11:55) Leaving grandmother with her pepelattsom, go further. Before we descend to the river. Emo stops and starts a story about 30-40-50 s, when there are many different working common people, including many Russian dug gold. On this meadow are still visible traces of past activities. I understand not dug from the fact that it was a lot of gold, but from the fact that it simply had to be.



(12:00) In Svaneti full of apple trees. Really, do not look much, all apple trees grow. Along the way met a tree with apples that have not yet had time to fall. Tore a few pieces, this is our lunch.



(12:03) Emo shows an old leaky tool prospector. Something like a large ladle or pan with a handle - like Horta. It washed the gold, and apparently so washed that deposit a hole)



(12:11) We are joined older brother Murad, he at the same miner, and they will work together.



(12:14) Over the summer shansovy tool slightly poiznosilsya and Rassokha. We have his little pebbles porihtovat that he would in a wooden box could fit.



(12:21) Before any undertaking should read the prayer and offer up praise to God. There's something about it. By the way, it seemed to me in Svaneti, people of faith but on the other, not as we do. It's hard to explain, but everything as it is natural, without strain and policies)



(12:25) Murad picking plate stones, then he will have to scrape the sand, and possibly particles of gold.



(12:26) As with fishermen, miners have had legends about the enormous nuggets that they or their ancestors are here)))



(12:34) Emo just digging the soil. He says this begins just below the ground, which will surely be gold. But in order for that to get to this layer, you have to dig pretty.



(12:42) After trying the first washing. Nothing.



(12:46) In progress.



(12:49) At some point, something flashed! I must say, the sun helps the children very much but in cloudy weather gold becomes difficult to see.



(12:52) A throwing sand, the second looks. Sometimes the roles are reversed.



(13:10) In this flow is not possible to see anything, but the brothers claim all the gold that has been here, be sure to settle - it is harder stones and sand.



(13:16) began to dismantle the chute. Actually a bit early, but the emo to go to the village to sit with her granddaughter.



(13:18) All the sand need to move very carefully in the bowl in which it will wash out.



(13:22) It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the portyanochki that would be all the sand, and all the possible zolotishko in kastrulku)))



(13:29) wash is not as easy as it seems ... Emo periodically falls into prostration and dreams ... I guess dreaming about the huge gold bullion ...



(13:30) But, though not great, but still very real gold bullion! Wow, that's a success. Ie I want to say, every day there are such findings ...



(13:36) All the golden sand and a small nugget they store in the small jar. All emo to go home, I'm with him. His brother remains washed further. Gold Rush seized all his thoughts Murad)



(13:59) We are the mountain trails to climb up slowly.



(14:28) Going back to the house we see all the same picture, the old woman and the unit. But now he is working on all its power, and even gives a fresh pervachok, from which he draws fresh apples)



(14:37) We talked with the grandmother, she does not speak Russian.



(14:40) came up children Emoi Murad and I treated them two apples that I gave an old woman.



(14:51) Leaving cook proper brew Emo took me to his home and we drank tea and watched telly. On TV channel NG spinning program about children who hands on the dispute catch som ...



(16:10) After chayapitiya, I went for a walk on the outskirts of the village.



(16:20) was taken to the small church, but no one inside.



(16:39) In the village in some places preserved ancient towers.



(16:47) came back to the hotel. I did not take pictures of his modest home, there was such a mess, confined toltko hall. I sat down at the computer and so protorchal until it was dark.



(17:34) I run about around the house looked different angles and made a few more shots. The street has become sharply colder. In a warm room I was worn out to dinner and I slept in his room.



(20:09) At dinner, I was woken up to eight hosts. Downstairs, in the dining room it was fun, Ukrainian colleagues on tourism was eating for both cheeks famous khinkali.



(21:56) Feast unexpectedly delayed, the owner brought a jug of red wine and a nice conversation over time flowed quietly. The owner of the house told us about the local customs, in particular, if in the village took place some sort of conflict, it appointed a special person, the mediator, who resolves the conflict on both sides. More about brides talking about politics ... of course blabbed to ten, I took leave and went to sleep. Here in such pleasant surroundings I walked all day and evening.



Source: odin-moy-den.livejournal.com