Cape Elizabeth Bashny.Net

Route Okha - pos. Nyvrovo considered the most difficult route on Sakhalin. On Cape Elizabeth technique is not never went, it was considered impregnable. From Okha to the village. Nyvrovo about 130 km, of which about 45 km on peatlands. In the past old days to the village. Nyvrovo went and tracked vehicles in the winter, the so-called winter road.

For the first time in 2008, we have three "Surf" took this route. We were first faced with the swamps and Mary, the experience of driving through the swamps we did not have. And we are well aware that we can not go back, "Surf." To Cape Elizabeth in 2008, we have not reached about 7 km.






Reaching the Sixth gully we are faced with huge boulders, steep clamps and great depth at the shore.



We did a walking exploration until the Cape Elizabeth and realized that pass along the coast to Cape impossible. All seven kilometers is not communicating. Walk the hills? Unreal. Strong deviations, plus debris and passing creeping cedar. It remained only go by sea. But the sheer clamps and a large depth of forced us to agree with the inaccessibility of Cape Elizabeth. I had to go home. Reaching the Cape Elizabeth has become a distant dream. It was believed that to reach Cape Elizabeth on the technique impossible.

But it is impossible - it is also possible, but very difficult. And to distinguish the possible from the impossible - can not be difficult. Then came the idea to turn the "Surf" in floating. The hardest part of the route to go one route machine.

Discharged from Ufa catamaran "Tourist" with a displacement of 2, 5 tons. It is estimated that 2, 5 m should be enough. From outboard refused on principle. The machine must walk the course. With its engine. We ordered a screw diameter of 38 cm at 38 cm, manufactured shaft. By the shaft through the flange fastened cardan rear axle. The result was such a design ... but there was only the leading front axle because Cardan spread to the screw.





The test is conducted on Novikov's career. "Surf" well managed and has a top speed - at medium engine speeds, the third gear 15 km / h on the GPS. Inside, it was dry. The water did not reach the interior of about 20 cm. We were pleased.

Reid long and carefully considered. The car was completed strictly on the list. The list was discussed more than one day, not even one month. Although it is impossible to foresee everything. But we have tried to provide the highest possible. And we did it. Let's not perfect, but it turned out. Start was appointed on 2nd June 2012. By this time, I redid lendovskuyu native electrical hydraulic winch in. Replaced in the electric motor. Instead, pump applied steering pump from the GAZ-66, changing his capacity. As a result, the calculated thrust has turned out more than 12 tons. When the winding speed from 1, 5 to 3 meters per minute. The result was:
instead of the front suspension bridge installed.
bumper of channel №12.
gear in bridges 4.88.
tires 37 & quot; FBL-160M ​​tractor.
winch, rear electrician 5.4 m before - hydraulics design thrust of at least 12 tons.
fuel capacity of 200 liters, 60 - full-time and 135 - additional tank.
batteries - 3 pcs., 2h95 Ah and 200a.ch.
compact welding.
converter 12 for 220, 2 pcs. 500 watts.
Mounted two bananas displacement of 2, 5 tons.
outboard propeller diameter of 15 & quot ;.
the rate of water up to 15 km.
1mehanichesky pump.
locking rear axle ARB.

We were happy with it. But we did not yet know that only too well - it is bad. Our souls dreamed of romance, and the "soft spots" about the adventures. And finally ... start his. Two "Surf»: LN-61 and KZN- 130.





Had covered more than 800 km, on June 5, arrived in the city of Oxy. One "Surf» (LN-61) left the parking lot in the town of Okha. Closer to the road can not leave, a lot of bears, and they are not indifferent to art. There was a case that one excavator tore bear all high-pressure hoses. Another case: the boys broke the jeep and they left for parts when they came, they saw a ragged interior jeep tried to bear. A 61st Surf is our reserve to be, on what parts, if necessary, deliver or evacuate the main machine. In extreme cases, it back home. We do not exclude the worst-case scenario. The other "Surf» (KZN-130) moved into the godforsaken region and people, the most northern point of Sakhalin Island, Cape Elizabeth.

This year has been quite dry. Many ambush places compared to last trip was dry. First we went pretty well. Machine often sat, still, even in drought marshes are wetlands. Even on the slopes of hills swampy ground. "Surf" was heavily overloaded, a fuel we took 300 liters. Weight "Surf" exceeded three tons.



But hydraulics pulled the car flawlessly, slowly but surely, is not feeling the load. We were pleased with the winch. But not for long.





On the first day in the evening, we dove into the swamp hole (lens) on the bumper. Winch is easily reached car. After that, the winch was gone free unwinding drum wedged bronze bushings. And to unwind the rope had a hydraulic motor. In the evening took off the winch, the cause of seizure could not be seen. Clean sleeve sandpaper collected, became a free unwinding.



The following lens load was very large arched drum and the middle rope rolled so that its diameter at the point of deflection decreased from 80 mm to 74 mm. And he looked like an hourglass. On the third day jamming again, again all dismantled, cut into bronze bushings additional oil grooves. It helped, but not for long. Time for disassembly-assembly took a lot.



Bent rod rear axle. Damn, well, that all the bridge remained in place. We do more exploration on foot and pointed branches trajectory of the machine. For one machine to sit on Mari's just as hard to get out, unwound hundred meters of Kevlar repeatedly in order to cling to a strong tree. Getting around Marie looks on the movement of water mattress. Jump, and all the rocks. It is necessary to stop the car and slowly sinking, prodavlivaya herbaceous layer around the wheel there is water.

Once we realized that winch through snatch pulls ... And what if one does not help snatch? We must take the second snatch!





We plowed pigweed, but got out. Fortunately fifty meters was to catch hold.

When they went to the Gulf Kuegda also swelled, coast narrow, slopes covered with bushes, clinging especially not for that, and sit tight. We had anchored, we nicknamed him "Hope».

We got our "hope", he plowed all around, thrust "Nadya" into the ground so that only the Kevlar, sticking out of the ground. "Nadia" underground tore rotten logs and roots ... In the end, the car we are "her" help dragged. Help us out more than once anchored.



Several times we have "perverted" over the anchor. The last peep "Nadia" was when the two of using the scrap we drove her (Nadia) into the ground. Winch cable taut, anchor caved in, and ... torn metal. We broke "her", our "Hope" as a dinghy warmer. The blessing was with a welding, and we will fix it, but the view from the anchor has become unsightly, topical (though alive, but barely flutters). On the eighth day we got to the abandoned village Nyvrovo. What beauty there. Lands End Sakhalin.









In Nyvrovo we stayed two days, the detail design of the swimming forgotten in the garage - produced using the new drills, grinders and welding. That radiator welding accident seared, then soldered. Fortunately 220 in the "Surf" was.

And they tried to enter the duct. Swollen and there, the front drive was not enough to get into the duct. The bottom is rocky, and the wheels clinging to the rocks. Baggage three hours, Kevlar caught on the other side of the beam ducts and the winch dragged the car in the canal. She plunged stronger than tests, the cabin was water! So you can not go, the car heavily congested.









Leave on Nyvrovskoy spit all that is possible. Spare wheel, spare winch, engine hoist, the gearbox to the windlass, fuel pump, clutch, welding, bolts and nuts of all kinds (Around 15 kg), products, crowbars, sex, drive, jacks, hijack, two generators, two samovytaskivatelya, in short, a kilogram on 400 eased, at least.



Essentials: clothes, food, gas stove, satellite communications, etc. loaded in an inflatable boat. Surf boat tied to a long antenna wire (70 meters) at the end of the quick karabinchik. It's so ...., Just in case .... Suddenly he has to throw the "Surf." They went out into the sea. Swam for half an hour and saw smoke coming from under the hood, moored at the weather station, it turned out, this is not the smoke and steam from the sea water. Alexey and Svetlana, the weather station workers, we happily greeted, and we stayed for the night.

Alex convinced us not to go for the cape "Baklany" at sunset, the best in the early morning. In the morning is almost always calm, but if on the horizon appears a dark strip of sea ... - is approaching waves. And with a wave and will have nowhere to hide. It will be necessary to moor where necessary. And to wait wave. But not every wave can wait. Oh very narrow beach. Basically sheer clamps.

At 5 am we woke up to prepare the machine, tea, coffee, and about 7 in the morning went out to sea, heading for Elizabeth. From the weather station to the Cape was about 22 km.



The sea was calm. We walked along the shore at a distance of 200-400 meters closer approach is dangerous, many reefs, rocks. The speed was 10-12 km GPS-y. Two hours later he seemed Cape Elizabeth lighthouse.





Before we went to the lighthouse, they turned to Cape Elizabeth, moored to the shore.







Held a photo session in the sea waves were coming in our direction with white crests, we do not want to wait for them to approach. We quickly jumped on the car and moved on Nyvrovo course. The mood was joyful. We have achieved our goal. Well, that's all, we thought, an hour or three and we will again on the beach. So we thought. But ...., But after 20 minutes I noticed that we are in the sea stand still, I was guided by the shore and saw that half an hour we have advanced meters to 50. The rate of GPS-y equals zero.

The pilot squeezed out of the car, I could, but something the result was not. At this rate we will not be enough fuel to sail to a safe zone.

Main stopped for over Cape cormorants, he was like a border. Before Cape calm after ... and vice versa, looking where to swim. But to Cape still had to walk. We kept quiet, just watching the operator at each other. Without a word, we knew something was wrong. We knew that at this point a strong current, but could not assume that it is strong. With such a strong current, and we can not fail to shore to swim, even by boat. We simply carry away into the sea. An inner voice spoke: "We dreamed about the adventures, so get them in full».

The wave began to increase noticeably shaking "Surf." The situation was critical. I was wearing a life jacket, but that does not get any easier. The pilot began to maneuver the snake, then left, then right. This gave a result, the car began to move forward slowly. Speed ​​of GPS-have increased to 1-2 km per hour. Then the pilot turned sharply into the sea, and, ignoring the wave began to move away from the coast. On the one hand, it aggravates the situation, on the other - the right decision.



Then I found out that such a move sailors called tack. It's hard to describe what we felt. Death was somewhere close by, and we knew it. Even with a satellite connection, someone's help we did not expect. The pilot taxied. The silence was only wildness screws and some slowly increasing vibration of the body. We have passed Cape cormorants, speed increased somehow, 5-7 km / h. The strength of the vibration intensified, and the pilot turned to the shore. All the attention was drawn to the vibration. Sound vibration is clearly promised big trouble. At the head fixed idea: hold on, no, hold on. I did not think that the large boulders on the shore, and there was nowhere to go. The main thing - to hold on to the shore. After a while, there was a loud knock and rattle of metal, and ... dead silence. The car stalled. "What is it?" - I shouted to the pilot. "Jammed all ..." - he said. The car slowly drifting in the sea. Then it was fast and quickly, the operator pulled by boat to the car: "From here you can turn gray!". Unwinding the ropes, I called the operator (it is well unwound ropes) jumped on board the car, and I jumped into the boat and took the end of the war and became a hard row to shore. In the place within already much less than 20 minutes ago. As long as I rowed, he clung to the rope of the rope. The distance was about 150-200 meters from the shore. Time dragged on, only one thing in mind: "If only there was enough rope to shore just to dogresti." The rope taut, see the bottom. Up the coast 20 meters left, I jumped with a rope in his hand in the sea, I got to the bottom of your feet. That made me really as happy, I slowly began to pull the car to the bank. The water was very cold, but I did not feel it. Tremors came later, when the car pulled to the shore.



On the shore of large boulders. We pulled "Surf" between the stones and were glad that the shore alive and that is good. On the shore, we found out that we shot off the steering and jammed the propeller.



Next, we removed the screw shaft, steering, threw driveshaft flange of the rear axle. On the banks of large boulders and the car will not pass. Until more normal coast 2 km away. The sea came easy after all 4WD. The vehicle was afloat, only to move on the sea it had to be on their own. The sea along the coast you can go, but with difficulty. We push the car to the "banana", along the coast. The water is cold in the north. On the slopes in some places still covered with snow. Two hours we spent in the water up to his chest and up.



And here you can see the beach, where you can go only on the banks bear. We were not in the spirit, swore at him. Before the bear was about 500 meters. When he saw us, he ran in good faith. It is evident he did not like our speech. We reached the shore and collapsed. Dressed in all dry and lay on the stones, drinking tea, coffee. We had technical problems that are not compatible with the movement of the car, do not squeeze the clutch and starter remind yourself. And for their own propulsion had plugged in the machine including transmission and start the engine. So it turned out several times until finally the starter did not go into denial. They spent the night on the beach, to the weather station was a few kilometers.

The next day, Alex helped us with weather stations to tow the car on the weather station.



Coupling, somehow stuck to the flywheel, and collapsed in the starter bearing. The clutch system, it was with a spare bearing repaired wooden Chopik.



Once we had an incident with the fuel, it turned out that the fuel at the right time was not in the tub ... so we tucked in Okha. A couple of days of warm hospitality and we started heading Nyvrovo. As we reached the shore of the Gulf of ducts and Kuegda like a rope to drag the car on the bayou. But it did not, was low tide, for it was in the sea. In the evening the group arrived in Nyvrovo dzhiperov from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Their goal - Cape Mary.

We spent the night on the beach. We again refused starter and rear winch. The car was on the pontoons, we just anchored it for a log lying on the beach and went to bed. Half past four in the morning the front of the machine is already rocked on the waves, we quickly untied the rope and shoved the car into the canal, it has incurred in the course of Nyvrovo. After 20 minutes we were on the shore of the village. Nyvrovo. On the beach, we took off again starter, looked over, he has earned. To fix the rear winch, the evening came in the back way, but after driving 30 meters, again breaking the valve on the pump has died. Salt water does the job. We spent the night in Nyvrovo. The next day took off pump, valve removed now "Surf" you can only drown if you include the fifth speed and apply the brakes. They opened up the machine worked two minutes, but suddenly stalled. A few hours figured out what was going on, they took off the high pressure pump, an autopsy revealed that the plunger is jammed, and there is something broken, spilled metal chips.

But thanks to the welding of us have something to fix. Home got its own power. Without incident.
The main thing - the goal is achieved. We took the Cape Elizabeth! The raid showed that many more of the world rakes that are untouched by human hands. And to prepare for such raids should be more careful. The godforsaken lands are no trifles. What can break, be sure to break down, and that can not break down, break a little later.

From 35-hour video and thousands of photographs we were able to show only a drop in the ocean

www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQiG3qmXDeg&feature=youtu.be

The crew of the "Surf»:
Pilot Vladimir Konovalenko;
The navigator Dmitry Kovalenko;
Operator Sergei Kovalenko.



Source: travel.drom.ru