Chelyabinsk-Baikal 2011

I want to tell you and show you how my wife and I took a trip to Lake Baikal on the machine.

to begin with some statistics:

total mileage to one side of the order of 3650 km.
fuel planning to spend 25,000 rubles
just take the money with him 50,000
Launch June 18 July 1 return
city ​​route Челябинск-Курган-Омск-Новосибирск-Кемерово-Красноярск-Иркутск-Листвянка-Тальцы-Ольхон-Хужир and vice versa.

there will be many photos and videos at the end of
I finish accomplish your goal.





June 18 start in 7-45. Just on the way to Barrow began the adventure. In the oncoming driver apparently fell asleep vase hit the circular skid, but still could not stop. Then he saw a falcon-like bird right on the wagon ran. On the side of the road we saw a heron.
Some two rare vintage cars drove to a meeting unfortunately did not manage to take a picture. Only stayed on the DVR.
Then somehow, without particularly interesting happened, except that in Chelyabinsk rains poured, and we hide from them. Going Solar band.



According to radio communicate with truckers, they are turning to each other "brother." Thanks to the radio there was a feeling of confidence on the road, warning of an ambush, you can get dozens of kilometers and be prepared in advance.



By the end of the first day we arrived to the Novosibirsk region. We stopped at a roadside motel for the night



. A room with two beds testaceous worth 900 rubles. Shower and toilet in the next room down the hall. At night, fought with mosquitoes, the battle was lost.



June 19 stood at 9 am, shower, tea, and on the road. 15 hours non-stop profits Novosib. Under Novosib like to stay at the old broken helicopter MI-6, but it was dismantled for scrap, sorry, I look at this whopper.
Let's go to the zoo. Zoo Novosibe huge we passed only a small piece, saw polar bears, they're a show ustaivayte, gathered a crowd around him.



The female begging for the visitors ice cream stands on his hind legs, doing all kinds of pirouettes in the pool and on the beach again to ask.



The male at this time having fun with the plastic canister, picks his teeth and with all the dope throws people, they discourage it back to him and he throws her joy from the shore into the water.
We stopped for a cup of hot chocolate in the cafe Coffee grinder. Chocolate they did not have, but ate a real tiramisu tea cranberry and ginger with honey. In Novosibe all on the road.



We drive to Kemerovo, looking for parking for the night. Not a bit of it. Overnight find was not easy: cafes, gas stations or parking truckers could be found, and campsites, motels there. Let's go - seek. We pass Kemerovo. His city is difficult to call, a village of some sort. But the road marking student's record. Pedestrian crossings marked yellow katofotami right on the pavement. Fortunately, we stopped here at night, the day would not be appreciated. It's not only transitions are lit, the dividing line and the edge of the road is also marked by a number katofot. Winding road, no lights, so that's not a bad option.
On prigorochka illuminated sign Kuzbass. We passed Kemerovo, looking for a parking lot, really really want to sleep. Finally, some camping found. On the stairs cafe asleep drunk trucker as the guard said, the third day already droops.



June 20th. Up at 9am. Banya. Showered, had breakfast, we go further. Up to an additional 400 km of Krasnoyarsk. They arrived without any adventure. At the entrance to the Krasnoyarsk region was a surprise for us. The price of gas soared to 14-50. previously refueled at 11-50 - 12 rubles. Over 40 km of Krasnoyarsk to hear from the radio:
 - Jeep in the channel?
 - The channel
 - How do you drifted so far? - Probably seeing our Chelyabinsk accommodation.
 - I'm taking my wife to Lake Baikal. Sam was there twice, now with his wife meal.
 - You have it in our salty lakes were brought, she would like. As you will go back 40 km from Krasnoyarsk roundabout turn left, after 250 km will be beautiful salt lakes.
 - Thank you for the valuable information, good luck.
 - Happily.
Well, that made them a little note on the back. We stopped in Krasnoyarsk in a traffic jam at the local institution to know where vayfay there, stopped at RK Ray, went into a cafe Am! bar and ate. It is necessary to work a little poshurshat, by check, Eprst !!! client bank is not on the computer. Kopec! What to do? Here's your mobile office. Savvy-savvy, he decided to call the bank, asking to send out by e-mail program from. Like the treaty. I exhaled.
Lawyer calls back from the bank and says that it is a paid service, it is necessary to come to the bank, write a statement. Yeah, right now, from Krasnoyarsk. Thank native Uglemetbank. So I think more zhoporez ...... ...... I think the flash drive inserted into it, just in case .... EXACTLY! On flehe backup! Saved! Checking account and calmer go watch the Krasnoyarsk hydroelectric power station. It's not on the way, but I want to see.



It is for Divnogorsk, 40 km from Krasnoyarsk. Road to Divnogorsk conquered his painting ... zhivopopiem ... no! in general pretty expensive. Mountain serpentine landscape around the feast for the eyes and look around is not possible, the road is dangerous. Even areas with repair roads meet. That's just one of them. We stop, skip the oncoming cars. Should the machine on a freshly-laid out the cover and the driver punched in the face pokes superintendent road builder. Write down everything on the recorder. Meanwhile, the foreman had ran to his car, he took out a knife and runs back. The one who beat him, leaving forward. We are ahead of him. Little pass, we stop to know if everything is OK with him. Tattered gave his elektronku to send video. They beat him for being soft on fresh asphalt left.

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They arrived at the dam, pofotkat, watched. From afar, it merged with the mountains.
Amazing people designed HPP. After all, as probably all began. Man explored the river terrain, territory future flooding, walked watched wondering how it will be located and where decision-makers, and the man was difficult for him to state resources and funds. As a result of GES.

www.yapfiles.ru/files/270381/panorama_gyes_4.jpg





Go back to Krasnoyarsk. On the road the car washed, bad, long, expensive. In general, prices rise with the approach of the Baikal natural gas, gasoline, even at the car wash. Day comes to an end, we decide to go out and look for the night Krasnoyarsk. We pass the town, go go, and around a forest, meadows yes. And nothing. Suddenly the road ended. Left direction, and a cloud of dust. M53 M53 such. nowhere to go, we go. At night, go on the road like most, besides there is no parking. The terrain is hilly, then picks up the hill, then katishsya mountain. So getting on the next hill, looking out to the mountains pushed convoy trucks, all different ogonechkami beautiful glow in the night seem so ominous in huge clouds of dust and darkness. Simply enchanting spectacle! Ask them to advise where to spend the night, they have prompted. We approach. Number 1800rub. but renovated with fridge and tell us. No, it does not suit us. Having gone to the heels of dozens of kilometers, we stop at the motel - there is no space. Hungry. We decided to eat at them. Eat, then go again. The roads are still there. Campgrounds too. Navigator says that near the parking lot of truckers, decide to stand up to them. We clear space in the trunk, put, sleep.
21st of June. Bitten by mosquitoes, wake up three hours later. Let's hit the road. We drove 70 kilometers, climbed the hill and the road ended. Continue to move only at a speed of 20 km / h. Arriving to Irkutsk, we saw cool village, the exact name of the village Memory 13 fighters. Immediately in my head I was born Dialogue:
 - Where do you live?
 - In memory of the thirteen fighters.
Virtualization pancake.
We stopped in Irkutsk to 15 hours, once in Listvyanka Baikal. The road from Irkutsk to Listvyanka cool. In the mountains up and down, up and down. On the right side, on the bank of the Angara entirely cottages, gardens. Irkutsk Ruble. We drive to Listvyanka and Baikal here.
Just wanted to dress warmly. We went to the market bought cisco, beer and sat in the gazebo on the shore of Lake Baikal. On the water, calm water is clear and very cold.
We sat for half an hour. Let's go look for the night, we decided to somewhere in the little wood to put the tent. But first call to eat. We stopped in a cafe at the Baikal tract ordered posture (such as dumplings) proved they can rent a house for 1,000 rubles, then we will spend the night.

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22nd of June. We got up at 11-00. Good sleep in a cedar house. We go to Irkutsk. The city was digging up roads repaired, and basically all the narrow one-way streets we shook, circled, the navigator is still crazy. Let's go to the embankment of the Angara, ride on the boat, looked closer to the water a place to sleep. We arrived on the Cape, put a tent among fishermen and went to bed.

www.yapfiles.ru/files/270380/nochnoi_irkutsk.jpg





June 23 were up early at 6 am. Let's go in the direction of Olkhon. They began to come across wooden sculptures of spirits (Burhan) hung in rags and covered with coins and cigarettes. Buryats here Burhanov (something like thumps as we understand). Long or short to 12 hours drove to the ferry. We are waiting. Half an hour of waiting and here it is steam. From the mainland to the island the distance is not great, so it swam quickly. We leave from the ferry, we were asked to go for registration. Join proved just a collection of statistics, as we have not even asked for passports. They wrote down the name, how many days have arrived and everything. They took the money for the removal of solid waste by 25 rubles per person per day of stay. Further our path lies in Khuzhir.



We still have to find our recreation. On the way we met UAZ gruzovichek, we do not stop asking whether you want to what? He says you need. Gasoline is over, dragged to Khuzhir? Cling, we go. On the road Man on the radio asking if he knew what hotel is not expensive. I know says, for 300 rubles all right? We need to look. They arrived at the Khuzhir, uncoupled guy at the gas station, go watch housing. The house was an ordinary village, no facilities, no shower, you want to pay in a bath, cooking. We decided to compare with what was originally booked. We are looking for a base "Olkhonskiye towers».
Call the travel agency, ask the address, they put up the phone, you bastards! But as the saying goes, the language to Kiev, go ask. They found the boy prepared to bleed the field, he showed us the way.
It was found on this basis, a very decent toilet right next to the house, with normal habitual toilets. The soul is still in the house is not, it is common to all in a separate room, so decide to settle in the one that without a toilet, it is cheaper for two chatla ©.



Went bought cisco, beer and settled down in the gazebo. In the evening we went to dinner. Feed tasty and plentiful. But we decided not to dinner, leaving only breakfast, because postural want in local cafes and all of the local food. Dinner and sleep.



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June 24th. We went on the planned route to Cape Burhan, mountain shaman, lake Shara-Nur and Pad Tashkiney.
Cape Burhan was in a 5-minute drive from our home here in Khuzhir. Nicely, many foreigners. They say you can not go to the Cape on the ground, with only water, we did not go, so look the part.
Let's go look for the lake Shara-Nur. Asked the aboriginal, where collapse. Local people are quite willing to communicate, help than can not refuse. The road to the lake goes through the forest, soil - sand after rain washout go ... interesting. The landscape changes on the island from the steppe to taiga.



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We got to the lake, it turned out to be much dried up and was like a dirty smelly puddle izgazhennuyu cows. On the lake swims duck family playing. Fly low over the water, a little fly legs and slide like on ice. Cows. Lie down for a bit, we learned again from the local road to paddy and moved further along the route. Our road lay through a forest of magic beauty. Ahead of red mountain road and two left and right of the mountain. At the fork in the road someone abandoned winter road. We decided to go right. After passing another 3 kilometers, we have opened the very Tashkiney Pad. Here is one of the three eastern exits to Lake Baikal, the rest of the coast - cliffs. The water is very cold and windy. Despite this, on the shores lie half-naked polutrezvye tourists sleep. They are located here with tents. Beautiful place. We sat and admired the views, moved back.



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Ground squirrels on the island pretty much have to drive carefully, so as not to crush. We watch as one of them is hiding and out of their burrows. Leaving stopped at that fork in the road on the winter road, looked, there was the ruined stove, bench, table and traces of stay of tourists in the same sense. They returned on the same road back across the lake. The question remains, where did the road leads to the left of the winter road?



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June 25th. Birthday to me. Breakfast and decided to go to Cape Khoboy. It is the northern part of the island. We left for Khuzhir and steppe gave way to thick forest. On the way to meet local, have the motor overheated, they asked antifreeze, given water.
On the way to see the beautiful beach, we decided to stop for a rest. Small boat ramp, a sandy beach. We lie down sunbathing. Good parking, I think, then stop tourists. And even built a horizontal bar. We have not passed a single mountain, almost all of town, except those that have been rocky, rubber regret, because we still 4000 km to go home.



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We got to the Hobo, a lot of people here, a popular place. Khoboy - this is the most northern cape. Forms are magnificent, steep cliffs, rocks.
Next way to Uzury. On the way to see the tower on the mountain, drive past does not. The rise of 25-30 degrees. We stopped, the mountain was much higher Hobo and more scenic view from here. The mast was the cellular antenna.



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Let's go further to search Uzury. They arrived to the village - a meteorological station, all fenced. For the settlement - the mountain. After the settlement is not possible to pass, gates, fences and everything is closed. But the climb up the hill is very necessary, otherwise life is a failure, the rise of 30-35 degrees, very tall. Try to find the way ourselves, we stopped in the woods, circled, there is no road. Returned. Ask around else who can open our gates. Found. Hooray, we're going up the mountain. Conquering the mountain at a lower second gear. From the mountain offers a magnificent view. It can be seen even Khoboy Cape, as the crow flies 10-15 kilometers. Here, the second of the three, we have found an outlet to Lake Baikal on the east coast.



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On the way back, in Khuzhir. Still, without missing attractive mountains. Back on the road through the forest, we tried to choose the road more difficult, decided to make Olkhonskiye trophy. The only pity is, the road is dry, the mud would be interesting to work out.
On the basis of lit a fire. We are joined today arrived campers. They gathered a group of Listvyanka 3 days on Olkhon, on trips. They have been on the program of preparation of cisco at the stake, and then we just had a small fire, and parted. They made a real show. First, we have decided not to interfere, to dissolve away your fire until they're panting, we have the coals were ready. And so they began to fire from our carry in your first burning logs, then realized that these logs in the coals become not soon began to clean up the log, get out of our campfire coals, drag them to her. As time went on, the fish remained still raw. In the end, fairly exhausted, they still decided podrastaschit our fire, gather the embers in the pile, and then it was only to prepare them fish. We also got.

While roasted cisco, we found the guide of the group about the lake Shara-Nur. It turns out there are many-voiced echo. Well, as we did not know. Do not worry, we'll go tomorrow, pokrichim.



June 26th. We decided to go to the lake and just look for any more places. They arrived at the lake, pogudeli really echo through the mountains jumping quad stereo. Echo simply fascinating!
Near an abandoned house we decided this time turn left. Road kosogornaya, complex with ups and downs, again regretted that dry and hybrids nothing. In the end, the road led us back to Khuzhir. We stopped on a hill in front of Khuzhir, sunbathe, baked. We decided to go to the beach, take a dip. Approaching the water, just do not get stuck in the sand. If we stopped, it would not have been able to move, and to dig up the belly. On the shore lay abandoned old rusty ship. I climbed to study.



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Masha! Fetch screwdriver .... The pancake is not suitable. And still need a key for 19, we have no such. It is necessary to buy! On an abandoned ship, old masters, too lazy to twist a beautiful copper bollards, we are not lazy, but there is nothing. In Huzhirskih stores did not have the right key. Found a body shop asked popolzovatsja. We returned to the ship. Knecht was four. We have at least one lift. With the help of available tools and key 19 we managed. Hooray! We are going to return the key and to study their prey. Beautiful Bollard, is now made of copper where there is not enough ... you can meet it as a handle to the door hanger priladit or use.



We sat and admired. Itching. It's still there! ...., I am sorry to leave. Found on the basis of the desired key, and went to take a second. I had to tinker a little longer.







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