Russian north

Recently managed to take part in a very interesting expedition to the Russian north. Without going into the objectives and results of the expedition, I will say that the journey itself was very interesting. I scored a lot of impressions and useful travel information. I would venture to share, perhaps, someone does come in handy when planning your trip. The route was: Saint-Petersburg - Petrozavodsk - West coast of Lake Onega - Belomorsk - Kem - Bodies archipelago - Solovki - Kem - Eastern shore of Lake Onega - St. Petersburg.
A lot of pictures (49)
Departure from St. Petersburg for Murmansk highway. The route St. Petersburg - Kem almost perfect, except for a few places. But the road on the east coast of Onega: Pudozh - Vytegra - Lodeynoe field - a complete travesty, a small piece of a very good road at the entrance to the Vologda region, but that happiness comes to an end very quickly and again the normal way you will meet only in Podporozhye.
They came in the night, for 3 hours were in Petrozavodsk. Approximately half an hour spent in search of the hostel, which booked.
When we found, at first very frightened





The machine just in case hidden behind KAMAZ



However, going inside, I will be pleasantly surprised and very pleased.
INFA for travelers. Hostel Kizhi. Seek out the most budget option, eventually booked a 6-bed room for 5 people, the cost of a day in 2600, facilities on the floor - shower, several toilets, kitchen, hostel is quite small, a few rooms. Cozy, clean, fresh linen, beds, however, bunk in the multi-bed rooms, the kitchen has everything for cooking and eating. Address Str. Baltic, 20, tel. Phone: +7 (8142) 51-97-70



In the morning we went to the museum. Pretty extensive interesting exhibition is divided into two parts - the archaeological and historical, with interest wandered at least an hour. At the exit to see that in the conference hall of going any get-together - a round table, Vodicka, handouts periodically moved up people. Leaving the museum, we asked the two men classic "hardware" type that for the event. And with quiet amazement heard explanations "Head of the Karelian Republic meets with representatives of the public and culture." No guards, no cordon, the museum is working normally. Immediately I began to respect the head of the republic.
Before departure from Petrozavodsk on the left shore of Lake Onega in the unlined embankment. Apparently, this is a place of rest of many citizens, on the shore of another company dozharivala kebabs. What pleased - clean enough.



Local graffiti



And machine



The next item - a waterfall Kivach.



Find easy on the main road to Murmansk, 30 kilometers away, on the road to the left is a pointer "Kivach", then 8 km and we are on the spot. All equipped, there is parking, cafes and so on. The bridges, stairs, fences. It is worth visiting the 80 rubles per person.



We were late, 21 hours, no objections. The waterfall is worth it, very good photos, of course, do not convey the beauty.



Here we are close enough acquainted with Karelian mosquitoes, then they have already left. We are very glad that stocked a few cans of "antikomarilok", but unfortunately, not have mosquito nets. Mosquitoes and gnats do not know how to read, and they are not aware that the effect of aerosol should last up to 4 hours. Gnat starts to attack much earlier.



And another.



Near the Kivach, for the same track on the same river Suna in the crater of an ancient volcano Girvas.



Find also not difficult to drive a bit along the same route to Murmansk, a pointer to Girvas again 8 km., Then in the center of the village turn right to the hydroelectric power station, a volcano just behind the hydroelectric power station, on the site of the former riverbed. Very interesting place.



And again the night put forward in the direction of the lake Onega Medvezhegorsk. Find a parking space on the coast is very difficult. Either village, or very close to the track or the road impassable or have someone zanyal rolled up in the morning, found a good place, a sandy beach, however, is quite close to the highway.



We rested there one day.



Again, the evening moved in the direction of Belomorsk.



On the way we stopped in Medvezhyegorsk - in the search for parking on contingent roads dolbanuli car appeared straining rattling sound from below. We decided to call in to the service station and find out whether there is a problem. Here we waited for continuous surprise and pleasant, and not very much. By questioning "languages" and Yandex appeared that SRT Medvezhyegorsk whether two, or even one. Indications at the seat of highly dispersed or bad, we understood. As a result, we met a remarkable person Sergey. In our standard question "How to get to the service station" (and we're kind of approaching the goal, but lost), Sergei offered to accompany us on his typewriter, but suggested that the SRT is already closed (after 18:00). Arriving to the goal, we are convinced that Sergei was right - closed. Then Sergey said that in their city there is only one master of foreign cars, which he immediately called and learned that he was on the spot in the garage again, escorted us back to the other end of the city. Thanks to Sergei good man! Generally, people Medvezhyegorsk very friendly, nice person. Car inspected, did not find anything critical, fortunately, little things corrected.
We left in Belomorsk. We arrived there at night for a long time riding around the city in search of an Internet, found at the post office. They came to the beach, and went to poglazeli petroglyphs. Since on the site we were about 3 hours in the night, we were able to calmly, without haste, all guides and vendors to inspect.
How to find. Very easy. Before reaching Belomorsk (after the turn from the main road) to the left is a pointer "Belomorsk petroglyphs", 2 km can be reached, then the 1200m distance. All equipped, there are signs, map.



But we were greeted by a happy meow small white kote and accompanied all the time while we were there, an hour 2.



Nearby stood a tent, where, apparently, the guides were asleep, the cat decided to support the reputation of the institution.



And I can do that.



By morning were Rabocheostrovsk on the pier (port of Kemi). At 9 in the longboat with the tour group pushed off the archipelago of the body. The archipelago is located about halfway between Kem and Solovki. Excursions carry on the German island since Only it can be assayed on a big boat.



There we stayed two days. Location terrific. Those options are excursions that we have seen over the 2 days, do not allow even an idea about an island. Stand with tents of all the archipelago is also convenient to the German island since it has a spring, an equipped space for parking.



Types island



and from the tops of its mountains



Mussels in unlimited quantities for breakfast, lunch and dinner.



How to get. We were looking for and agreed in advance of delivery, to be paid on the spot. Theoretically, all officially done only through the company LLC "berth", which the port belongs. But Body Firm "berth" just does not sell tickets, but the tour for a few hours. In fact, almost every day go barges on the body and you can take a chance and reach an agreement with the team on the ground (800 rubles one way). But if there is a large load by organized groups, there is a risk not to be. We found tur.agentstvo, organizes excursions to and agreed on a one-way delivery.



View Solovki



A few simple types



More



After spending 2 days on the island, with regret we went to Solovki, did not want to leave.



Solovki we reached the de boat, for the same 800 rubles, however, agreed on the phone with a completely different company, or rather guide

The White Sea is fascinating, a lot of different islands.



Lighthouse on the way to Solovki.



About Solovki, you can write a lot, but probably does not make sense, the place is very famous. Very nice place, as they say, positive energy, fun, friendly locals. Of course, a lot of tourists, respectively, the prices almost as in St. Petersburg.



We stayed in a tent camp. For a fee, there is very tasty homemade food, showers, charging the batteries. Firewood in unlimited quantities, equipped bonfire table.
View of the Kremlin from the tent camp.



Labyrinth



Dam. Built in the 19th century by monks for the device dam for fishing. Connect 2 of the island. The total length of 1,600 meters.



The dam is located about 13 km. From the village, you can go on foot, we went on a great, but expensive for the extreme, many swamps.



On the continent back on the ship "Vasiliy Kosjakov", despite the name, the journey there were no stocks.



Girl painted seagull



Who sat on a flagpole



Peter went back to the east coast of Lake Onega. Designated parking a little easier to find there than in the West, but the best on a jeep. In some places, we did not dare to turn up. There is a great place- spit at headlands Kochkov Navolok, apparently a favorite vacation spot of many.



About everyday concerns. Traces of the person.



There, on the Spit, find a work by an unknown author.



Driving through Pudozh, came on the day of the city.
Entertainment.



The concert of local rock group.



So is decorated park.



I work almost for lovers.



Benches for lovers.



Also on the way out of town in a lovely quiet village. In one of them (the size of a street) met here is a miracle. In the residential buildings, the ordinary court, all in this street. Touched. It is the last photo.



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